Road Trip: Islamabad-Ghizer Valley-Shandur Top Oct 15-20, 2016 Via Kaghan Valley, Babusar Top, Gilgit, Gahkuch, Gupis, Phander
1. Preface
This Shandur trip was a long awaited adventure. It was postponed a number of times due to one reason or the other. First it was a family trip, then a trip of four friends, and finally, it reduced to only two friends trip, my self and my old friend (in both meanings as he turned 60 last month), Ashfaq Raja. Timewise, it was first planned in Ramzan-2016, then again, it kept on changing dates because of Eid, weather, summer vacation, Eid el Azha, weather again and so on.
In addition to excitment of the trip itself, I wanted to test-run my Prado-96 that I bought a few months back and now I am in the process of setting it right for my purpose. Its exterior, interior, suspension and engine are wonderful. I have changed its oils, filters, disk-pads, seat-covers, nozzles and a few minor make-ups. I wanted to check it on a long trip and to see what else I need to do to make it a robust n trust worthy runner.
For a warm-up run, I, accompanied by my wife, took this Prado to Nathiagali for a day long trip, sometime in September. Now it was real and rugged test-run. We, two friends, started from Islamabad on the morning of Oct. 15 and reached back on the evening of Oct. 20. The route was Islamabad (B-17)-GT road-Hasan Abdal - Mansehra - Balakot - Naran - Babusar Top (13700 ft) - Chilas - Gilgit - Gahkuch - Gupis - Phander-Shandur Top (12200 ft) and back. I myself drove it all the way, about 1500 km in total.
At Shandur Top, The Lake and the Polo ground can be seen in the back drop
At Shandur Top with Ashfaq Raja, Security Check post and Barrier in the back ground
Neeli Pari overlooking Shandur Lake
On way back, a few km from Shandur Top, look at the dirt on Prado
On the way to Shandur Top
At Shandur Top
Close To Shandur Top on the way back, a distant snow covered peak is visible
A vast valley just before Shandur Top. A weird look of grass burned due to winter. Must be lush and refreshing green in summer
2. The Problems
In this trip, we encountered two problems with respect to vehicle. I shall state them in detail as knowledge sharing with Pak Wheelers.
2.1 The 1st Problem
On first day, while heading for Gilgit, after traveling about 315 km, we stopped at Babusar Top and left the automatic vehicle in Parking position. When leaving, the automatic gear lever got stuck and did not get out of parking position. I tried a few things that I knew. Swiched off the vehicle and started it again a few times, checked all the fuses, checked transmission oil, the wiring. Nothing worked. There is a small red button beside the gear lever. I pressed it a few times and released it. No effect. And, here I was out-played. That red button is there to release the lever if it is stuck but it has to be kept pressed till the gear lever is shifted back to desired position. I didn't know that at that time so I pressed it a few times but immediately released it and that ignorance costed me Rs.7000 and and a night stay at Chilas that was actually planned for Gilgit. Any way, we enjoyed that time also. We came to know many things about Chilas and met some wonderful people there (the real essence of traveling). The weather was also pleasant at Chilas.
Starting at 7:30 am from B-17, Islamabad, we reached Babusar Top at about 3-00 pm. Tried to start again at 3-20 pm and then spent almost 2 hours in trying to fix the gear problem. Then, around 5-30 pm, Dr Abdul Wahid, MS, District Hospital, Chilas appeared as an angel of mercy. May Lord always bless him. He, with his driver, was there on his official Prado-92 for recreation. We left our vehicle right at babusar Top, in front of the large blue board where the height and distances are written and headed for Chilas with Dr Sb. Dr Ahad, Allah unko hamesha khush aur abad rakhay, not only brought us to Chilas but also called and introduced us to Mr. Yousuf, the best auto electrician of Chilas. We stayed at hotel for the night and next morning, a good auto-mechanic, Mr. Amjad took us in his Corolla-82 (altered for that area) and Mr Yousuf to Babusar top. There was nothing wrong with the vehicle. As I realized later it was only a "NAZAR" problem, for those who understand this phenomenon. The mechanic just kept the red button pressed and the lever was released. However, It took almost 20 minutes to start the vehicle because at an altitude of 13700 feet, the night made the water and oils of the vehicle and air around us chilled. Fortunately, the radiator was filled with anti-freeze coolant otherwise things could have gone worse. We left Babusar at about 12-00 noon and descended to Chilas and then continued onward to Gilgit.
Mechanical Check-up at Swat Auto Workshop, Gilgit
2.2 The 2nd problem
We faced 2nd problem on our way back from Gupis to Gilgit, was due to dirty diesel. Probably, the diesel that we took from Gupis was not very clean and also due to jumping on rough roads (there is no road, only bumpy jeep track with sharp-edged stones for the last 28 km or so to Shandur Top- utterly horrible) some "dirt" loosened from fuel tank and mixed in diesel. The result: intermittently, I felt a little missing in the engine from Gupis to Gilgit. It remained nominal till we entered Gilgit, where, with waves of increased engine vibration a yellow check-light started appearing and disappearing. At Gilgit, there is a very good "Swat Auto Workshop" on a branch road from main road in front of Hotel Shaheen. We already knew this because befor leaving for Gupis/Shandur we got our vehicle checked up at this workshop. So we went there for this problem and also for a re-check-up of all suspension etc. . Everything else was fine, they changed diesel filter and put an injector cleaner in the fuel tank. During diesel filter change and restart a loose connection in a grip was also identified and rectified. However, all this work took about two hours and costed Rs.2200.
3. What we missed
This was after Oct. 15, onset of autumn, so, we missed one thing badly at high altitudes, that is, greenery, especially the lush green look of Kaghan valley, and, more especially, the Gittidas between Jalkhad and Babusar. Sight of green Gittidas is one of my most favourite scenes, that was no more there.
We could see beautiful autumn colours in parts of Kaghan valley, and, more beautyful and more prominent, in Ghizer valley up to Handarap. However, the vegetation on and around Babusar Top and Shandur Top had already withered and burned due to sub-zero temperatures at night, giving a weird look.
4. Highlight of the Trip
Dear Pak Wheelers, highlights of this trip are serene and pristine beauty of Ghizer valley, the grace, grandeur and calmness of Shandur Top (not mentioning Babusar Top as I have been there a number of times and most Pak Wheelers have already seen it) and the superb behaviour and hospitality of local Ghizer people. Ordinary people, even the shephard boys or girls with their washed and cleaned faces were wrapped in clean dresses. Their houses and bazars are much cleaner than rest of Pakistan. They are educated and civilized people. No body overcharged us anywhere. Same was the situation when I visited Hunza (many years back) and Astore ( two years back).
Awesome autumn colors near Handrap
Phander onward is a yak country. Yaks can be seen grazing
Yaks grazing with other animals near Handrap
5. Caution
5.1 There is a sharp descend of about 9600 feet from Babusar Top (13700 ft) to Chilas (4100 feet) spanned over merely 45-50 km. In which first 20 or so km are more crucial as we descend about 7000 ft in that short distance. So one has to be extremely careful while driving on that steep and curly road down the hill. Dr. Ahad, MS, District Hospital, Chilas told us that, this year there were a number of accidents and casualties in that part of road. Same sort of descent we experienced from Lawari Top to Chitral, many years back.
5.2 The road to Shandur Top disappears near Handrap and what remains is a rough jeep-able track. Please, never take your car (I mean car, not a 4x4) beyond this point. There is great risk involved. this is about 28 km track to Shandur Top that is covered in about two hours on a 4x4. Mostly it islittered with sharp edged stones. All around you is scary wilderness filled with a weird feeling of loneliness. Humans, signs of inhabitation or any other vehicle are hardly seen as we travel on this stone-track. Please, be careful not to leave the beaten track that is usually visible by tyre marks. Getting off the beaten track might put your tyres on sharp stones that could cut or puncture the tyre leaving you in trouble in the middle of no where. One feelsT really happy when he reaches the top. Not only because of the success but also because presence of security personnel and their barracks give a relief from the feelings of weird loneliness.
6. Expenditure for 6 Days Trip:
6.1 Transportation: diesel+misc= Rs.18000 (approx but 7000 paid to mechanic at Chilas not included)
6.2 Food, Room rent + Misc (for two persons)= Rs.18000 (approx)
Total expenditure of six day trip for two persons = Rs.36000 (approx)
7.Chronological account of the Trip (mostly based on my memory)
7.1 Day 1 (Oct 15, 2016): Islamabad to Babusar Top via Kaghan valleyLeft Islamabad at 07:30 am with full diesel tank. On the way, had tea at balakot, Lunch and 1st diesel refill at Naran, prayers at Batakundi, short stay at Lulusar.
Reached Babusar Top at 3 : 00 pm. Resuming journey at 3:30 pm failed due to stuck gear lever. The detail can be seen above in section 2.1.
Abandoned the Prado at Top and left for Chilas at about 5:30 pm.
Distance from Islamabad to Babusar Top= About 315 km, Traveling Time= About 7 h 30 m
Night Stay at Chilas and went back to Babusar Top next day at 10: 30 am
On the way to Babusar Top on Day-1
7.2 Day 2 (Oct 16, 2016): Babusar Top to Gilgit
Reached Babusar Top along with mechanics at about 12 : 00 noon. The Prado was restarted and ready for travelling within 30 minutes. The detail can be seen above.
Left Babusar Top at 12:30 pm
Reached Chilas at 01 : 45 pm. a little vehicle re-check, prayers at Chilas.
Distance from Babusar Top to Chilas City= About 50 km (descend), Traveling Time = 1 h 15 m
Left Chilas for Gilgit at 02:40 pm
Reached Gilgit at 05: 40 pm,
Distance from Chilas to Gilgit = 135 km, Traveling Time= about 3 h,
Night Stay at Gilgit Cantt.
Total Distance from Islamabad to Gilgit via Babusar Top= 500 km, time= 12 h
7.3 Day 3 (Oct 17, 2016): Gilgit to Gupis
Mechanical check up at Swat Auto Workshop, A little city visit and shopping, ATM money drawl,
Left down-town Gilgit at 12 : 00 noon, 2nd diesel refill at a recommended pump at exit of the city after Imamia Masjid. Left Petrol Pump at 12:30 pm
Reached Gupis at about 03:30 pm, had lunch in the main bazar and went on for PTDC
Distance from Gilgit to Gupis: About 120 km, Traveling Time= About 3 hours
After dropping luggage at PTDC Motel that came several km after the Gupis city, visited Khalti Lake (adjacent to PTDC), shot pix, talked to fishermen there, booked 2 kg Trout, came back to Gupis city. Had tea with Pakoras. had some dry fruit presented by locals as their hospitality. Remained at bazar and enjoyed a lot by gossiping with the locals till the dark fell in.
Night Stay at PTDC Motel, Gupis.
7.4 Day 4 (Oct 18, 2016): Gupis to Shandur Top and Back
Visited Khalti lake and Gupis bazar once again. In addition to our friendship at Gupis bazar, officials at PTDC motel became our friends and we had long chatting sessions with them at night and in the morning. They told us almost everything about their valley and its inhabitants (real essence of traveling). So much so, one local gentleman, accompanied us from Gupis to Shandur and back as gesture of friendship, for company and help. His presence was really a moral booster and source of rich knowledge and information about the area.
Left Gupis for Shandur Top at about 11:30 am
Had a few stops on the way for sight seeing and pix. Had tea and prayers somewhere near Handrap.
Reached Shandur Top at about 3 : 00 pm, stayed there for half an hour and then turned back.
Reached back to Gupis at about 06 : 30 pm, went to bazar again and gossiped with our newly made friends there for an hour or so.
Distance from Gupis city to Shandur Top: 106 km, round trip was about 212 km,
One side Traveling Time= About 3 h 30 m (1.5 hour from Gupis to Phander and 2 hours from Phander to Shandur Top)
Night Stay at PTDC, Gupis
7.5 Day 5 (Oct 19, 2016): Back from Gupis to Gilgit
breakfast at PTDC, had goodbye session with officials at PTDC . Left PTDC at about 9 am and headed for bazar again. Had goodbye chat in bazar, did some shopping for family (Walnuts n Almonds: that were so fresh n tasty that my family has demaned 10-15 kg more)
Left Gupis bazar for Gilgit at 10:30 am after 3rd Diesel refill at PSO pump.
On the way, had about half an hour visit of Gahkuch main bazar. Gahkuch is District HQ of Ghizer. It has a fine, clean and big bazar and you can find almost everything of your need.
Reached Gilgit at about 2 : 00 pm,
Visit of Gilgit bazar, shopping for family, especially woolen shawls for ladies.
In the afternoon, we rectified the missing problem in Prado. Detail can be seen at section 2.2.
Distance from Gupis to Gilgit : about 120 km, Net Traveling Time= 3 hours
Night Stay at Gilgit Cantt.
7.6 Day 6 (Oct 20, 2016): Back from Gilgit to Islamabad via Babusar-Kaghan
Left Gilgit at 7:30 am after 4th Diesel refill and money drawl from ATM
Reached Babusar Top at about 11:45 am but didn't stop there.
Had lunch at Kaghan. 5th Diesel refill and prayers at Balakot. Had tea at KKH after crossing Mansehra. A few short stops on the way to just stretch the body strained from continuous driving.
Reached B-17, Islamabad at 7:30 pm.
Distance from Gilgit to Islamabad via Kaghan valley= 500 km, Traveling Time= 12 h
Lulusar on way back: Day-6
