RUSH LAKE TREK (4694-M) EXPEDITION-2016
Finally after a long journey of 46-hours I reached at my destination in Hoper Inn guest house at Nagar Valley in front of Hunza Valley located in Gilgit-Baltistan North Pakistan.From here I was to continue trek for the next 7 days towards Rush Lake (4697-M), the lake in Pakistan at the maximum height. I left on 5th of July from Lahore through night train at 00:30 a.m. and reached Rawalpindi around 5 a.m. I got really shocked when I found no bus service ply between Rawalpindi-Gilgit due to Eid Festival Holidays. Later on I found one coaster which was ready for Gigit after tiring waitnearly 12-hours in heat. Usually all the bus services including NATCO bound for Gilgit-Baltistan via KKH leaves from Rawalpindi in afternoon. I left from Rawalpindi General Bus Stand at 6:30 p.mexactly one day earlier before Eid Festival and reached Gilgit next day on 6th July after 20:30 hours long bus ride. Then next 3-hours I continue traveled in a mini Van to Aliabad, Hunza Valley on main KKH Road which leads to China via Khunjrab Pass (4693-M), the highest border in the world between China and Pakistan. It was fully darkness when I approached Hoper Inn guest house for night stay. The double bed room cost was 1000 but they charged me 500 per night. There was also option for camping at Rs.200.
Next day after breakfast, one guide approached me and demanded Rs.8000 for Rush Lake Trek and back in 3 nights camping, but I refused and offered Rs.3000 but later he agreed to Rs.6000 but I flatly denied it. At last, I set off alone my 1st day trekking from Hoper Guest House (2790-M) around 7 a.m. on my way to Rush Lake (4694-M) on 7th July, first descending thenentered into 1st glacier called Baulter Glacier which was widened nearly 500 meter and took half hour to cross it and reached Shiskim after ascending. After continue ascending I entered into another glacier called Bharpu Glacier which was more widened and dreadful than Baulter Glacier. Indeed I was lost in this glacier and stranded nearly 2 and half hour to find the trail or way from where usually local or trekkers follow the way. Nevertheless I came out of this horrible glacier after wandering 2 and half hour which was really overwhelmed me. Beside this Bharpu Glacier, a parallel beautiful and adventurous valley stretches nearly 26-Km long. After continue 8-hours trekking from Hoper Guest House, I made my first camp in this valley at Mulharai, where I met 2 young brothers and their uncle who were shepherd.They had more than 200 sheep and goats and were living in this valley during summer time only and move downwards soon after the start of winter. They had the job to get the milk and made yogurt of it then put into long wooden box to shake with a wooden stick to make out butter then later convert into cooking oil (Desi Ghee) in a traditional way. After making camping here they offered me yogurt with full of cream then hot green tea (Qehwa) and at night offered supper voluntarily. I really enjoyed here and also took bath at nearby flowing stream in a cold freezing water directly coming somewhere from glacier.
On my 2nd day trekking I moved upwards to BerichoKor (3300-M) where a straight trek in 70-80 degree on a boulder ridge leads to Rush Lake, but unfortunately I could not follow this trek due to non-availability of guide or any other tourist found there except myself alone in this wilderness. However, if I have found thetrek perhaps I dare to go up but was entirely unaware of this trek. I continue my trekking further upwards in this valleyuptoChukutans by 5-hours and 3-hours back at UsaiMiling and made my 2nd camping here alone in wilderness. Indeed I was alone in this 26-km long valley in wilderness except 2 younger brothers and their uncle who were living at Mulharai in the middle of this valley where I made my 1st camping. It was also disclosed by 2 younger brothers that 3 days earlier of my visit here,one sheep was attacked and eaten by one bear from their living place. Later on some local tourists also disclosed that WWF also released nearly 7 snow leopards in this highlands mountain area in order to save their breed. At first, this sort of information had really puzzled me a bit but in the end I was completely relaxed and calm.
On my 3rd day alone in this wilderness valley, I was rather pessimist due to my failure to reach Rush Lakeor at least to find its way/trek, I decided to go back at Mulharai where I made my 1st camping. Thankfully, here I can see at least 3 people and hundreds of sheep and goats altogether and also can enjoy their hospitality voluntarily from the core of their hearts.I was resting here under a tree when luckily this afternoon I saw some tourists who were coming here with full zeal and zest. I really feel happy and glad to meet them when came to know that they are also going to Rush Lake, itindeed turned me optimistic. They make their camping at BerichoKor where actually a trek leads to Rush Lake. At night some more tourists arrived here. Next morning when I woke up there were lot of local people camps who were also interested to explore Rush Lake. Usually all trekkers including foreigners with their guides/porters who come here for expedition to Rush Lake (3494-M) camped here at BerichoKor (3300-M) to go up and go down from another side at PhahiPhari (3450-M) and cross Miar Glacier via Sumayar Bar (3500-M) and to arrive at Hamdarfor last camping before reaching Hoper Guest House to finish their trekking. So I followed them and make my 3rd camping here at BerichoKor with them.
On 4th day after our breakfast with salty tea and local traditional thick chapatti, we start our trekking at 8:30 a.m. in the name of Allah towards Rush Lake with a straight upwards trek nearly 70-80 degree on same mountain boulder ridge. It was very difficult and dangerous to stand on a boulder ridge during a momentary stay in order to balance breathe and to relax body due to tedious hiking. Sometime I put all my weight on my hiking stick including back of my rucksack weighing between 16-18 Kg in order to balance of my breathe. This is a steep relentless tough climb the trail rises in a series of zigzags directly behind camp gaining 700m up a dry and dusty path with few places to stop and rest. The trail leads directly to the crest of the ridge that separates the valley of the Barpu Glacier from the Hispar to the North. The trail turns southwards and follows the broad crest of this ridge over less steep group for a further 350m to reach the campsite at ChidenHarai. It takes about 6 hours to get to the camp site. The views of the peaks above the BarpuGlacier are outstanding.
All the way on the upwards trek, there remained feelings that any moments a single wrong tread can be fatal. It was also necessary to cling on boulder ridge trail and to keep your feelings in good command and control; otherwise any little circulation because of high altitudes can also drop you down. Indeed without any hiking stick and water it was not possible to go up since on the way there is no water and without these it is a suicide to go up. After 6-hours continue trekking on boulder ridge I succeeded to go up on top from our base. My other fellows were so ahead from me and out of my sight since they were so young and also less weight as compared to me. On reaching atop there were again hiking and hiking continue upwards until next 4-hours I was nearly dead due to scarcity of water and less air on high altitude mountain’s peak fully covered with snow. At last after 10-hours continue hiking I found my fellows who made their camp at ChidenHarai, exactly 2-hours further hiking before of Rush Lake. It was going darkness when I approached them and also made my 4thcamp beside them. Next morning we start our trekking towards our destination Rush Lake (4694-M), the highest alpine Lake in Pakistan. As soon we reached at Rush Lake, we were so mesmerized due to surrounding of high altitudes peaks with icy peaks. This lake also remained covered with snow for 9 months and only 3 months it water shines under the light of sun. It was our luck that the weather was quite sunny and not so much clouds but the temperature was really cold and freezing. We stayed here nearly 2 hours and make group photos and what was the amazing thing that I make a swimming in Rush Lake at nearly 16000 feet elevation in the cold freezing water. All the local friends were so stunned about my thrilling activity. Later we decided to go descending on the other side of Lake at PhahiPhari camp site. The local friends also recommended me to go back for descending on the same trail where we altogether came for Rush Lake the day before yesterday with the reason that this current side descending could be more dangerous or difficult for me. Indeed, it was really so much difficult to go descending since it makes me more nervous as compare to go ascending. But nonetheless I relentlessly dared and make courage to go descending with them in this steep trail. At downhills, in front of me Barpu Glacier was vividly stretches like a big monster. So following them, I slowly start to go descending and every step I have to take care for putting on the right place and right side with my trekking stick. At last after 5-hours I was on the grounds at Phahiphari camp site with the blessing of Almighty Allah. But after this my knees were really hurting me and the next 3 days I really feel it while walking. It was same like I go up on Adam’s peak in Sri Lanka where I go up with 5200 stairs and simultaneously go down another 5200 stairs back to my hotel at grounds. Here I make my 5th camping with them. At night we make a camp fire and prepared Biryani (spicy rice) and have fun.
On the next morning my fellows wanted to cross another Miar Glacier and to go Hamdar for next camping and also want to eat lamb there as big feast. Perhaps I would have joined them but due to period already spent i.e. a lot of days here till them , now I decided to quickly come out of this valley and to return home and to join my office as well. So on 6th day in this valley I said goodbye to them and on my way back to proceed descending in the same valley running parallel with Barpu Glacier. I left from PhahiPhari around 8 a.m and crossing UsaiMiling and BerichoKor, and arrived at Mulharai, where I stayed for a while and met again with 2 younger brothers and their uncle. Simultaneously they again offered me yogurt with full of cream and Lassi (made of yogurt) which I extra filled in my 1.5 liter bottle and drink on my way uptoHopar Village. During this trekking I again cross Barpu Glacier and Baulter glacier before ascending to Hoper Village, where I stayed my last night in the house of two younger brother’s home to whom I met in the Barpu valley at Mulharai. At their home, the 3rd brother of 2 younger brothers from the valley cordially invited me and took me his house as I was so much tired due to long trekking nearly 11:30 hours. Next morning the family from house gave me dried apricot and almond as a gift, so I left from their home around 7 a.m and took local van where my seat was already reserved from Hopar village to Gigit via Nagar-Hunza valley and arrived at Gilgit around 11 a.m. Luckily after 10 minutes I found a direct Flying Coach from Gilgit to Rawalpindi via Babusar Pass (4173-M) and NaranKaghan Valley. Otherwise all the buses were fully booked for next 2 days inGilgit. However, after 16-hours continuouslong travelling from Gilgit to Rawalpindi in a mini bus over KKH, via Babusar Pass (4173-M) and through Naran-Kaghan picturesque valley, I arrived in Rawalpindi and further next 5 hours travelling from Rawalpindi to Lahore, I finally reached home safe and sound after 10 days of my excursion tour.
My travel picture are on following links:
