Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

[margallar]

float is not adjusted right, or needle valve is leaking

[rajaahmed96]

How to adjust Margalla carburettor? Car is hogging fuel.

[margallar]

it is not something that owner can do, carburetor will need to be disassembled for repair

[brownrose78]

@sayedarsalanali @smijaz @cracked
What is your suggestion, as my current electric fuel pump is faulty so i have to replace it soon.

This time, should i go for same electric pump (In-line type) of some better brand or put new mechanical pump (Out-line Type).

I have read from some threads here in pakwheels that in carburetor cars, if you will drive on CNG fuel then mechanical pump will fail soon as it does not cut off its operation when car gets converted from Petrol to CNG so its continous operation will cause issues and consequently damaging it

while in electronic pump, it cuts off its operation as soon as car gets converted from Petrol to CNG & restore to original operation when car gets converted back to Petrol from CNG. Is it correct or myth?

1 workshop told me that nowadays, mostly in-line chinese electric fuel pumps are failing because their flow rate is 70 or 80 Litre per Hour while recommended Free Flow Rate for sa 310 original carburetor is at least 105 Litre per Hour

[margallar]

i am not very familiar with a khyber, but if you could get an intank pump like cultus, that would be good.

Otherwise, i just purchased a used inline pump for a friend, it cost 2500...

[smijaz]

+1. Float height needs to be adjusted, ports (air) for fuel emulsification needs to be cleaned out. Butterfly shaft needs to be checked for lateral free play and repaired if present (kharadiya job). Vaccum operated needle valve needs to be checked and have to be repaired if not working (also kharadiya job)

[smijaz]

If your current mechanical pump is not leaking , you can get it disconnected from the inside by removing the camshaft pin. Now get a good inline fuel pump (there are a lot of Chinese pumps with Japanese branding) and connect it's out put to the mechanical pumps inlet . Rest of the piping will remain same as default. This way you will have a primary feeding the carb and a return routing access back to tank from the original inactive pump.

[Thinking]

get the new Japanese carburator kit and replace it. you can see the details in this thread.

Need Advise of Experts on Mileage Issue with Suzuki Margallah

Dear Experts, I am stating the problem below along with relevant details. Need your expert advise to resolve the issue at hand. Car Details: Suzuki Margallah with stock G13B Carby Engine Driven 260K KM. No issues with the performance. Maintained on Fully Synthetic 10-40 Oil (suits with better idle and improved mobility experience). Proper regular maintenance at every 5K KM. Had been using LUCAS 4 TIP plugs and was getting at least 11.5-12 KM/L until May 2014 (sometimes even better). Is…

post # 206 & 207

[brownrose78]

Sir @smijaz
Please guide how can i check mechanical one is leaking or not?

By your post what I understand is that I should install 2 pumps; new Electric pump as well make faulty inactive mechanical as a Bridge route to Carburetor pump.

Is it possible to install both pumps working at the same time 1 Electric pump + 1 Mechanical pump, but i am afraid as i saw on some videos that High flow rate sometimes creates so much pressure that fuel line gets burst due to it.

BTW Sir, What is the purpose of return routing access back to tank from the original inactive pump which youw wrote above?

[smijaz]

Fuel pump sucks fuel from the tank and pushes it towards carburetor where it's level is controlled by a needle valve connected to a float. When fuel level goes done float opens the valve and fuel level is maintained. You know engine's rate of fuel consumption is less than what is provided by the pump, so to avoid back pressure on the pump you need a lower diameter line which can take the access fuel back to tank when needle valve is not letting it in the carb. This is why I am asking to use the old mechanical pump as only a bridge. You can check if it's leaking by giving it fuel from the electric pump on it's input side. Fuel should only come out from the two pipes on the other side

[brownrose78]

Jazak Allah @smijaz Bhai for your explanation. I will Insha Allah check mechanical pump leakage by the method you described above.

1 more Question, Will it be fruitful if i remove electric fuel pump & install new mechanical pump as it came in factory fitted version? This way electric fuel pump headache will be terminated. what do you say?

[brownrose78]

@smijaz @syedarsalanali

Sir, are you asking this post a/c installation pictures of Carb. and firewall

[pwuser159239420983]

Ijaz bhai I have a question plz.... my khyber 1994 model does not accelarate speed above 100 km/h on speedo meter. 2 nd problem is front left side shock. Although I have repaired it yet it knocks on speed breakers. Im sick of it. Any sugession plz. Im from peshawar.

[smijaz]

Hello. For the speed issue my guess is that the secondary throttle plate is not opening, reason may be disconnected diaphragm or clogged intake vacuum line or missing linkage. Secondaries are often disabled for use on CNG.

2ndly about the shock absorber , I also had a bad experience with repaired shocks. I recommend buying new ones. Have wasted money on repairs and also on buying used from Bilal gunj etc but no use. Get a new pair and rebuild all suspension linkages before installing.

[brownrose78]

@smijaz @syedarsalanali
Today, I got time to replace fuel pump, I bought Mechanical fuel pump in 800 and took to mechanic but when old one was opened, mechanic found that there was no metal rod clip inside so had to return it and bought electronic fuel pump. There were 2 options:Chinese in 1,000 & CLRF in 1,100 but CLRF had warranty of 1 month so bought CLRF.

Please see pictures for whole procedure:

Also as it did not have fuel filter so I installed it too, cost just 140 Rs.

[asadmughal.9.am]

bro can u tell me where to connect alternator load diaphragm. my AC is connected properly . but this one is not connected.

[salman.r107]

Salam everyone, i am facing a problem with the dashpot.

When the check-valve is connected in between the vacuum connections, the 'pin' on the front side of the dashpot goes in all the way when the car is started as expected. But, no matter how much i raise the rpms, the pin does not come out.
However, when i removed the check-valve and connected the vacuum connections directly, the pin on the dashpot goes in all the way at startup and comes out when i press on the accelerator.

Can anyone tell me what the problem could be? I used another similar check-valve to see whether it was the problem or not, but it too, made the dashpot behave in the same way.

[brownrose78]

Sir can you share pictures or videos for clear understanding?

[salman.r107]

I couldn't upload the video on pakwheels, so i uploaded them on drive.
@brownrose78

Without Check Valve
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1goNlnN1lsPc7wJ06VE5-xeKQMcfyK0rX/view?usp=sharing

With Check Valve
https://drive.google.com/file/d/110LGd0iiostAYUcoky7AZJo1vyYSxsK-/view?usp=sharing

[salman.r107]

Bump! Anyone?