Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

[smijaz]

@Xulfiqar

Can you bust the myth of GL-4 Vs GL-5 gear oil.

I recently have replaced my transmission as the old one got broken

I had 85-140 GL-5 gear oil in my previous transmission

Now I am planning to use 75-85W GL-4 in my new transmission.

There is a lot of theories in this regard like GL-5 will eat away brass synchronizers while others say there is no such thing as brass synchronizers in synchronous trany. Some say GL-5 is an advanced version of gl4 and is backward compatible while other says its not.

Can you please explain this and give your recommendation accordingly for my Front wheel drive tranny.

[Xulfiqar]

^^your transmission does use brass synchronisers on all gears. Using GL-5 will erode the brass slowly till you get slipped or crashing shifts because the synchros stick or do something stupid. And when brass erodes away it cannot stick to the magnet in the transmission, it instead just gets thrown around everywhere.

GL-5 is great for shear stability but cannot be used in oldschool brassynchro transmissions. GL4 is cheaper, more economical and easier to get too.

[speedster_101]

its used on cars which have a mechanical fuel pump on the engine itself

it blocks the petrol from reaching the carburettor when you are on CNG

Yes Xulfiqar is right. It is known as Petrol Solenoid Valve.
I removed that valve when I changed my car's fuel pump from mechanical to Electrical one.

[metalhead]

mine is still in the petrol line after installation of electrical pump

It opens only when we switch to petrol? other wise its de-energized?
if its vise-versa then i will have to take it out as most of the time the car is on petrol...

One query about the transmission... There is a sound in the differential heard at 40 to 60 kph. it is due to the kharad repair on the wear-out pin (large) carrying the small star bewel gears as it dont have the bearings in them.
The pin should be new, but the mechanic said we wont find it new so he welded on it and turned it on lathe.
Please tell me that i can find a new one...
Also couldnt find a new PCV valve, and the same mechanic put a piece of rubber pipe containing a one way valve inside it (taken out from some vacuum brake system of corolla). It may be working but what if i get a new one.
Please tell me a place where i can find such parts in pindi and islamabad?

[metalhead]

Still waiting for a suggestion and price for the "cheaper and better" compressor and evaporator for my khyber...

[cracked]

i bought PCV for khyber,kabli one,cuz new wasnt to b found anywhere in pindi..from GAMBHOL shop....its shop located in chah sultan..
wen ur goin from murree road,its very close to waheed autos.n pakistan autos,a few steps ahead ...ask anyone abt its name n there wud b only this shop with weird name
these guys have only suzuki khyber n margalla kabli parts..pcv costed me 200 though he was asking 350 but wen i strted to leave shop,,he agreed to let it go in 200...

and about evaporator and compressor,i got new evaporator of success company in 3500...with out ducts...n i think its the cheapest one in mkt cuz sanden is 3500 but made in china.success is made in singapore BTW..another one is seasonair..thts made in malaysia n costs 3800...
about compressor,i cant tell much as i never got it changed,but i think success is cheapest,i think around 4-5k.n works good...but buy it from dealer..success dealer is abdul rehman agency.its in street opposite to naz cinema!...they have low rates n grantee of products...

[metalhead]

Thanks for the reply

but kabli one? i once tried to get a kabli one but their condition was same as the one in my car... i mean they were open from one side but from the other side it stayed open at low blow and closed when blown through harder... i think it should stay closed even at lower blow through...

about the compressor and evaporator. i will try to convince my ac mechanic to take him along to get the parts... first we will try to get a kabli original evaporator and sell the old one, if failed to do so, then will get the success ones from the place you mentioned...

[metalhead]

last night i observed that there is lot of sparking between the cables. from lot of i mean like a mesh. the cables were at proper distance ie they were held at their place with the two plastic holders...

what could be the problem? the car is not missing, but i feel some fluctuation in power in mid rpms when accelerating. also i get a little vibration in clutching from rest at lower rpms (not too low but optimum)

[fas133]

It seems that the insulation of your spark plug cables is leaking current so it's time to change the cables.New cables costs about Rs.650.
Because of leaking current your respective spark plug would not get proper current to produce spark and it would result in improper combustion of the fuel which effects the engine performance directly.

[smijaz]

It seems that the insulation of your spark plug cables is leaking current so it's time to change the cables.New cables costs about Rs.650.
Because of leaking current your respective spark plug would not get proper current to produce spark and it would result in improper combustion of the fuel which effects the engine performance directly.

+1

[metalhead]

same as i was thinking... i will check for the resistance also. the service limit of the resistance is 20kOhm per cable if i am not wrong...

i went to a few shops in islamabad and peshawar, but on each shop they have some new brand of cables, like power grip, truline etc.

on this forum i have been reading a few brands i.e. seiwa, ngk, ultima...
and i couldnt find these...
any particular shop to get these...

one more question: the distributor cable has a wire joined near the coil, probably going to the cng kit. for it the new cable will also be peeled off or i there any other good option for it... experts please?

also should i check for the resistance of new cables?

[fas133]

@metalhead
As per the factory manual the service limit is 20K ohm but now a days the new cables are having the resistance of 3 to 8 K ohm.
Secondly the cable from coil to distributor has a cable wrapped up to signal the CNG controller whether the engine is running or not.It is just wrapped on the cable and no peeling off is required.
You can also connect this cable to the -ve point of your ignition coil.

[cracked]

i have two queries..
1st is i wana to change coolant of my car..but as now i have put thermostat valve in it so how wud i change coolant???do i HAVE to take out thermo vavle n then change it or is there any way to get it done with t valve still inside??
2nd i want to change plug wires..im using platinum plugs with normal ultima plug wires...wud thicker wires help in better response??/n im using alto's dry coil,shud i change it too with thick plug wires,10mm most prolly...
plz help out!

[fas133]

@cracked
1-You can simply drain the radiator coolant by removing the drain plug of the radiator and there is no need to remove the T.Valve.After filling the radiator with new coolant you have to start the car with removed radiator cap and let it idle for few minutes so that any air bubbles trapped in the cooling system would escape and after that fill the radiator again and cap it properly.
2-Spark plug wires are used to transfer the voltage from distributor to the plugs.Wire insulation purpose is to lock the voltage into the wire mesh.So if u r upgrading your coil then you must upgrade the wires also otherwise it is not necessary.
Spark Plug gap also plays an important role in fuel burning.
I am using 1.0mm gap with stock plugs,wires and coil on CNG and i am getting 170km / Rs.400 CNG(53/kg) on local with some times AC on.

[smijaz]

i have two queries..
1st is i wana to change coolant of my car..but as now i have put thermostat valve in it so how wud i change coolant???do i HAVE to take out thermo vavle n then change it or is there any way to get it done with t valve still inside??
2nd i want to change plug wires..im using platinum plugs with normal ultima plug wires...wud thicker wires help in better response??/n im using alto's dry coil,shud i change it too with thick plug wires,10mm most prolly...
plz help out!

1. Remove the radiator cap, remove the heater intake pipe from the intake manifold, remove the drain plug.
   After all the coolant is out of the system blow some air into the mouth of the radiator to push any remaining out. Put back drain plug and heater pipe. Put in the new coolant with level just below the mouth of the radiator and start the engine wait till you see water moving from right to left in the radiator. level up to mouth and keep idling for few minutes or till bubbles disappear.

2. No need to change plug wires or coil if there is no visible or feelable issue like sparks jumping, missing at high revs, poor starting. You will not be able to justify the expense in terms of economy or performance.

[cracked]

thnx both of u..
just got back home from a journey somewhere near salt lake...its total of 343 kms from home to home back...
costed me 700 ruppess of gas...which i think is low as it shud b around 600...
local cng mileage is also gotten low,like from 160 to 130 or so in 425 ruppes of gas,
how to knw if cng kit need service????

[metalhead]

Checked for the resistance of wires. it came out to be like this:

Cable 1 = 23.3 kOhm
Cable 2 = 16.5
Cable 3 = 19.2
Coil cable = 14.5

To check the resistance of coil, should i disconnect it first?

[metalhead]

Experts please!
I have mentioned the problem of cross sparking between plug cables.
yesterday put Seiwa plug wires, but the problem is still there. we were hearing sparks in day light. last night i checked and it is doing the same. While driving i am feeling more loss in power (fluctuating)

What could be the reason? i want to diagnose it soon as this can cause mistiming damage on mechanical parts...

[smijaz]

Experts please!
I have mentioned the problem of cross sparking between plug cables.
yesterday put Seiwa plug wires, but the problem is still there. we were hearing sparks in day light. last night i checked and it is doing the same. While driving i am feeling more loss in power (fluctuating)

What could be the reason? i want to diagnose it soon as this can cause mistiming damage on mechanical parts...

Which coil are you using and what is its primary and secondary resistance?

have you checked the new wires for any cracks in insulation or out of range resistance?

What about the plugs and their gap?

[metalhead]

The Coil is ND Nippondenso (black cylinderical and with Blue plastic top)
Yes i just checked the coil resistances, if i did it right.
(One i checked between + and center terminal and otehr between + and - )
it came out to be 13.6kOhm and 2.0 Ohm.

The service limit of it is 1.1 to 1.4 Ohm and 11.4 to 15.6kOhm

the 2 Ohm value is out of range here.
You will know better that it will cause such leakage in wires or not?

About the wires resistance, i did not checked all but when installing i checked for one cable's resistance which was 2.6kOhm. I will check for all today.

The spark plugs were installed by the mechanic, i dont know its gap. I will also check for it if i got much time today.