Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

[harisiqbal1]

problem solved slow release valve was the main culprit after replacing car works fine thanks alot @smijaz and @metalhead

[metalhead]

i didnt even replaced the valve, i just opened the small hole through it with a sewing needle and thread.
It works like a one way valve but there is a small hole in the closed state and the air flows but with restriction.
The dashpot plunger is retracted softly due to small leakage in valve and is released swiftly to be ready to hold the throttle for little time and release slowly. If this does not work properly, you will feel jerk when you release the race while driving in gears specially in lower gears.

small thing but gives you smooth drive...

[harisiqbal1]

one more question
mere car ki head gaskit last month jal gae the without any heatup to me ne change krade but after running 30km on short routes maximum 2 km per day there are again visible sign of water and oil mixing i am worried.
my mechanic says it is normal after running in long routes water will evaporate
is it ok or again i have to change head gaskit :-#

[virgothevirgi]

my khyber gives 80 km on full 50 kg cylender.i checked most of the mechanic,but the problem still exists.i also changed mang cng stations,before it give me 120 km.i also changed my air cleaner box.i also checked by carborator it works fine please help me

[metalhead]

@harisiqbal1
are you referring to oil in coolant in a radiator cap or water foaming in engine oil?

@virgothevirgi
Is the pressure at stations full i.e. 200bar? Usually its low in khi.
You can check gas leakage in cylinder valve, lines, cng reducer kit, upto the carburetor.
You can also check leakages in intake (filter housing, carburetor joints)
Have you checked the cng reducer kit. Does it need servicing?

You can share the some more details of your car drive; like how is its drive(missing, jerks, etc.), tail pipe condition (any sign of carbon/oil in exhaust)

[harisiqbal1]

yes oil in coolant and lit bit foam in engine oil cap

[daniyalahmad]

Hi everyone.
Hope that every one is fine.
I need some info here.
The temperature gauge of my car broke during the removal of engine.
Had to get a new one and my mechanic suggested to get a kabli one instead of new.
I got it and installed it.
Now the issue is that with its original gauge the temperature needle never rose above 25% from the "C mark".
The fan used to kick in with the needle in this position.
Now after getting this kabli gauge the temperature needle rises and stops after reaching the centre mark.
The fan kicks in when the needle is in the middle.
With the AC switched on it drops a little but stays around middle.
Now I wanted to know that are the temperature gauges of Suzuki cars such as Khyber/Mehran/Cultus are same?
I mean how can I confirm that Im not using a Mehran's gauge in it?
How can I confirm that the gauge I got is of Khyber and not of any other Suzuki?
The radiator is okay, never drops water level and Im using Caltex extended life coolant.

Temperature needle with previous gauge:

Temperature needle with current gauge:

[metalhead]

@harisiqbal1
you can wait for oil change to check for foaming in fresh oil(just to check if water went into oil cavities during assembly of head).
Flush the coolant (if its normal water). Check with new coolant after driving. If oil symptoms in coolant show again, then the gasket may be not fitted right and its leaking. Is the oil content in coolant increasing day by day or not?

Note: Proper torque and torquing sequence in engine head installation is important.

@daniyal
The needle is at half the scale at working temperature. Your previous temp sensor might be faulty or of different model/car. I have read some where in pw forums that some electricians put a bulb/resistor in the circuit to bring down the needle to overcome the overheating issue. Pretty lame but ... how will he feed his children with BETTER food...

So no worries regarding the needle position coz your sensor is now correct.

[daniyalahmad]

@daniyal
The needle is at half the scale at working temperature. Your previous temp sensor might be faulty or of different model/car. I have read some where in pw forums that some electricians put a bulb/resistor in the circuit to bring down the needle to overcome the overheating issue. Pretty lame but ... how will he feed his children with BETTER food...

So no worries regarding the needle position coz your sensor is now correct.

Yes I have noticed this in my other car.
The needle stays in the middle in Cultus and Alto.
Same is the case with Corolla.
The previous gauge was the original one, never replaced or tampered to keep the needle down.
No such silly mod was ever done on it.
We are the first owners of this car and I can say this with certainity that no electrician was allowed to mess with the gauge or any other electronics
The gauge used to stay in this position since day-1.
Anyways I think now I should make myself used to this new needle position.
BTW thanks alot for the response.
Stay blessed!

[speedster_101]

^^^
My Suzuki Khyber's temperature needle remains at this position.
And it is showing this position right from the day one, when it was rolled out of the factory.

[smijaz]

^^^
My Suzuki Khyber's temperature needle remains at this position.
And it is showing this position right from the day one, when it was rolled out of the factory.

Mine too. It stays between 25% - 30% position with thermostat valve & auto fan.

@daniyal
I think you have got cultus's sensor.

[Xulfiqar]

the sensor which keeps it in mid position at normal temperature is good, the one that kept it lower was bad.

[cracked]

ive had the sensor that you had daniyal..the one that worked ar 25% mark..and i'd say taht was stupid for a car to kick its auto fan on 25% when the H mark is way out of reach..in case your car used to kick at 25%,the H mark would have been the middle mark and not the actual H printed on the meter..so in that case,even if car was over heatin like stupid maniac,the needle would never reach the H mark!
the one you have now is good..ive replaced it and my car's fan kick at 50% of gauge and stays!i'd say no worries!

[daniyalahmad]

^^^
My Suzuki Khyber's temperature needle remains at this position.
And it is showing this position right from the day one, when it was rolled out of the factory.

Same here.
It was the one that came with the car.
It broke during the removal of engine so changed it.

Mine too. It stays between 25% - 30% position with thermostat valve & auto fan.

@daniyal
I think you have got cultus's sensor.

Im having the same setup.
T-stat valve installed and fan on auto.
Im also confused regarding this.
Is there any way to check that from which car the sensor comes from? (The one currently installed?)
Are they a universal fit in all Suzukis?

ive had the sensor that you had daniyal..the one that worked ar 25% mark..and i'd say taht was stupid for a car to kick its auto fan on 25% when the H mark is way out of reach..in case your car used to kick at 25%,the H mark would have been the middle mark and not the actual H printed on the meter..so in that case,even if car was over heatin like stupid maniac,the needle would never reach the H mark!
the one you have now is good..ive replaced it and my car's fan kick at 50% of gauge and stays!i'd say no worries!

You are right.
But the thing is that I was used to that gauge position and I often get paranoid whenever I see the gauge at the present position.
The needle in my Corolla and Cultus stays in the middle from day-1 and Im used to it so no issues with it, but this position in Khyber is bugging me a bit.

the sensor which keeps it in mid position at normal temperature is good, the one that kept it lower was bad.

Okay.
So I think I should now make myself used to this new gauge position?

[virgothevirgi]

@harisiqbal1
are you referring to oil in coolant in a radiator cap or water foaming in engine oil?

@virgothevirgi
Is the pressure at stations full i.e. 200bar? Usually its low in khi.
You can check gas leakage in cylinder valve, lines, cng reducer kit, upto the carburetor.
You can also check leakages in intake (filter housing, carburetor joints)
Have you checked the cng reducer kit. Does it need servicing?

You can share the some more details of your car drive; like how is its drive(missing, jerks, etc.), tail pipe condition (any sign of carbon/oil in exhaust)

i have checked my car from shamim cng its in yaseena bad,zeeshan at aisha manzil and others they all checked the leakage and there will be no leakage.shamim cng wala told told me that there is a problem of pressure now a days in karachi,my cng kit is speed.mechanics told me to change the kit and installed a lendi renzo kit.my khyber runs smooth on cng .there will be no jerks,first self start.but the problem is of mileage.

[cracked]

ok here is the speedo meter and RPM meter in my car..its of GTI khyber version which was i guess 1.3 L..
now prob is it does not show correct rpm and speed..
the pic above is showin car on idle..prob is it dont shows accurate rpm and speed..GTI has 13 inches tires size and my khyebr has 12 inches size..so anyway i can rectify it?

[ahsanonline]

Zulfiqar saab should be able to explain this one. Its got something to do with different distros, diff. in rpm counting in the two engines....

[speedster_101]

My Suzuki Khyber front seats have become quite uncomfortable in a sense that they are leaned backward. Especially the driving seat. So its uncomfortable for both the front and back passengers. I showed it to a poshish wala and he said that the frame has become weak. (I am a bit healthy). Guys what should be the solution? Should I take them to some Khiradia and add more steel bars or buy new seats?

[metalhead]

ok here is the speedo meter and RPM meter in my car..its of GTI khyber version which was i guess 1.3 L..
now prob is it does not show correct rpm and speed..
the pic above is showin car on idle..prob is it dont shows accurate rpm and speed..GTI has 13 inches tires size and my khyebr has 12 inches size..so anyway i can rectify it?

I think you have installed a 4-cylinder engine's rpm meter in a 3-cylinder one. Tire size has nothing to do with the rpm but effects the speed-o-meter.

[cracked]

^
thats what I said...RPM is for 1.3 L engine and mine is 1.0L
and speedometer is working according to 13 inch tire size,and mine car has 12
so all in all,both rpm and speedo are wrong !