Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

[Gregarious1]

Hi All,

People are expert here to do their work himself. Really interesting, but I can't do it myself. Yeah I can someone guide me thoroughly.

I have cultus vxli cng 2009, there is no tuning from last last year. Need to be tuned up n change the plague as well recommended by Suzuki Company while Free Inspection Unit.

Any good recommended mechanic who can tuned up my car?

[daniyalahmad]

The side which has a more worn out brake pad is the side that bites more. Check this side caliper pin. Also check the other side for air in the brake line.

Yours may be a camber + brakes issue. Get camber checked first. Competence of alignment guy really matters.

Got it!
I got the allignment checked today, if it doesnot solves the problem then will check the brakes.

nervous steering is caused by incorrect toe setting.

Okay I went to the allignment guy today.
He checked, alligned and asked me to go for a test drive.
After 2~3 test drives, the same problem persisted (the car would move noticeably towards the left side whenever the steering wheel was left alone)
He kept on saying that the allignment is okay but since the problem was still there so he started his diagnostic on other parts.
The problem he discovered was that both the left side in body nuts, where the jumper rod is tightened with bolts were slipped.
He showed me and said that this is the reason due to which the car moves to wards the left side whenever you leave the steering wheel.
Now Im totally clueless that could it be due to this issue?
If yes then what should be the best solution to this problem?
He directed me to a kharadia and asked me to get new nut welded over the current ones.
Moreover he made some adjustments and now the car doesnot moves towards the left side.
Need some help here as Im kind of confused.

[daniyalahmad]

@daniyalahmad

Regarding the clutch issue, it seems that your cable, its linkages and pedal is ok. As you said, you feel the friction, like there is some slight vibration in operation of the clutch. No extra force is needed.

IMO-The problem lies in the bearing. There is a thrust bearing in between the clutch linkage and the fingers(leaf springs) of the pressure plate.
When this bearing gets dirty, it will make friction like noise. When it gets stuck, the fingers will grind over the bearing face and will start wearing them.

I hope its not the clutch plate sliding on spline being dry.

You got it!
This is the exact situation Im facing with my car.
My father got the clutch plates along with the pressure plates changed of this car way back in 2008.
Dont know what was the condition of the bearing and was it replaced at that time or not.
I'll ask my mechanic to check this issue for me.
Thankyou for pointing out the possibility of this issue.

Daniyal have you tried Wheel & Wheels in blue area?

No I never visited them, however my father told me that he once got his car aligned from them.
We get ours done from Wheel & Wheels at Mareer Chowk Rawalpindi.

[daniyalahmad]

Can any body plz share the amount of r12 refrigerant Khyber (1996) Air conditioning system should hold, it should be mentioned on the sticker near the radiator.

If any body could share a picture of that sticker, it would be great.

Im having a late model.
It uses HFC134a as a refrigerant, or else I would have taken a picture for you.
BTW the amount of refrigerant is not mentioned on that sticker.
It only tells about what refrigerant and oil to use.

[Xplorer]

I got my carburetor thoroughly serviced by a mechanic, after which it was running without any issue on petrol/cng.
A few days back I had to service self-starter. To make comfortable space for working I thought to remove carburetor since it was very easy job. So I myself removed carb and fitted it back after self-starter job was complete. I did nothing to carb, except turning it upside down to empty its petrol reservoir. All vacuum lines were carefully re-connected. Since then it runs fine on petrol at high speed only but I can not take my foot off the accelerator at slow speeds or during idling or the engine will stall.
I showed it to a mechanic and he said that slow jet is clogged and carb has to be opened. I am surprised how can any jet get clogged during all this process!!! Pls suggest.

[smijaz]

I got my carburetor thoroughly serviced by a mechanic, after which it was running without any issue on petrol/cng.
A few days back I had to service self-starter. To make comfortable space for working I thought to remove carburetor since it was very easy job. So I myself removed carb and fitted it back after self-starter job was complete. I did nothing to carb, except turning it upside down to empty its petrol reservoir. All vacuum lines were carefully re-connected. Since then it runs fine on petrol at high speed only but I can not take my foot off the accelerator at slow speeds or during idling or the engine will stall.
I showed it to a mechanic and he said that slow jet is clogged and carb has to be opened. I am surprised how can any jet get clogged during all this process!!! Pls suggest.

Have you connected the primary (slow jet) cutoff solenoid wire properly.

If yes, you can try carb cleaner with engine running and properly warmed. DO couple of full throttle bursts with spraying carb cleaner in the primary and secondary barrel alternately and then you can cover the top (mouth) of the carb with your palm to create maximum suction along with full throttle. Dont let the engine stall place the palm and remove instantly then repeat. I hope it will clear any minor blockage in the lines.

[Xplorer]

^^Thanks for replying. A typical "tuk" sound is heard when IGN is on, means Idle Cutoff Solenoid is getting current. Does it work as slow jet? Cannot it be removed and cleaned without opening carb? I will try the carb cleaner also.

[smijaz]

^^Thanks for replying. A typical "tuk" sound is heard when IGN is on, means Idle Cutoff Solenoid is getting current. Does it work as slow jet? Cannot it be removed and cleaned without opening carb? I will try the carb cleaner also.

Its tuc sound is very feeble and i doubt that it could be heard unless ear is placed right next to it, not at all from the cabin

The click you mentioned may be from the fuel (CNG/petrol) cut off solenoid fixed on the firewall.

It doesnt work as a slow jet rather the supply to the slow jet is routed through this solenoid. When current supply is disconnected it stops the supply to primary jet.

This solenoid can be removed without removing the whole carb but you may need to remove electrical load idle up diaphragm to get access.

[daniyalahmad]

Need some help here guys.
The threads of the in body nuts where the jumper rod gets tightened have stripped.
I was out to a nearby market, at a very slow pace, when I noticed my car swaying all over the road with no control over the steering.
Before I could think what could be wrong I started hearing a rattling sound from the front left side on every minor bump and also felt some thing at the clutch and brake pedal.
I stopped, examined and found one of the bolt on the left side of the jumper rod had fell off and the other one was on the verge of falling down.
I tried to tighten it, but it would not and later I found that the threads had stripped.
Called a friend and brought the car home.
Upon reaching home I discovered that the thread of the in body nut have stripped.
I tried screwing new bolts of the same size but in vain.

I consulted my mechanic who directed me to get a new nut welded over the current ones, to which I disagreed.

I was thinking to take it to a kharadia and get the threads re-made?
Will it do the job?
Will it be reliable and durable?
Also if the threads cannot be re-made then getting bolts with longer length and then tightening them with two more nuts from the top, which will act as check nuts?
Is this an option?
Will this be reliable?

Need suggestions about solving this issue as I have never encountered any such issue before.

Im attaching the images of the current situation of the car.

These are the nuts, highlighted in red that have stripped threads.
One of the bolt fell down and was lost, the other one is still there, tightened with the help of teflon tape.

This is the image taken from the bottom,
one in red is the front sire and the one in blue is the back side.

[ahsanonline]

This is the anti-roll bar.

Which threads have slipped? The bolt that you tighten or the nut thats welded onto the body?

If bolt's threads are damaged then replace it. If nut's threads are damaged then weld a new good quality nut in place/ just use a long bolt+nut on the other side. Its a simple job.

[daniyalahmad]

^ The nut that is welded with the body has got its threads stripped.
The space is less and if I go for a welding job then Im sure it wont be neat and might damage the surrounding parts due to heat.
What if the kharadia is able to re-make the threads for these nuts?
Will it be reliable?

[ahsanonline]

Get longer bolt and replacement nut. next best thing

[daniyalahmad]

Get longer bolt and replacement nut. next best thing

Okay.
Will sort it out this weekend Insha-Allah!
Thankyou!

[smijaz]

Get longer bolt and replacement nut. next best thing

Agreed.

[daniyalahmad]

Okay so I'll be taking the car to my denter tommorow Insha-Allah.
I'll be getting longer bolts and replacements nuts on top of the current ones.
My concern is that will it be reliable? since the current ones are welded with body and it might happen that the new ones would get loose with passage of time as the ones I'll be getting now will be tightened with the bolt only.
Another thing, if I have to get the anti-roll bar removed for any repairs in future then it would be a bit difficult to remove, as the new nuts will needed to be gripped before loosening the bolts.
Say if I get longer bolts and get new replacements nuts, tighten them and then get "peetal wala taanka" at the corner of the new bolts so that they can grip the body?
Will it be of any use? (Im trying to avoid the welding as it will bare the metal and might result in rust)

P.s: Sorry for acting like this but Im kind of confused, and want to find a durable and reliable solution with as little damage/welds possible.

[ahsanonline]

Easy solution for rust: After welding, use a can of spray paint. Spray, dry, spray, dry, spray,dry. It should be enough.

[daniyalahmad]

^ Yes that was in my mind, but still I was trying to protect the original paint as much as possible.
I'll also ask my denter for suggestions, lets see what does he suggests?
BTW Thanks once again for the suggestion.
I'll update after getting it done Insha-Allah!

[fas133]

1. AUTOMOTIVE CONSTRUCTION OF IGNITION COIL WITH RESISTOR
The ignition coil with resistor has a resistor connected in series to the primary coil. Unlike the ignition coil without resistor type, the secondary voltage drop in the high speed range can be reduced. In almost all production automobiles that are fitted with the conventional ignition system, the ignition coil is of this type. Two types of coil are available: one in which the resistor is an external resistor type, and one in which it is an integrated resistor type.

Integrated Resistor Type is same with external. BUT it have 3 Terminals (+), (-) and Terminal B. (-) Terminal is going to Distributor, And the (+) Terminal is going to Ignition Switch same as the Terminal B.

NOTICE
Since the integrated resistor coil has three external terminals, do not confuse the B and (+) terminals when making connections.

2. FUNCTION OF IGNITION COIL WITH RESISTOR
When the flow of current through a coil is started, there is a tendency for the current's flow to be impeded by the self-induction effect (during the time it takes from the point when the breaker points close for the current saturation value to be reached). Therefore, when current flow is started in the primary coil of the ignition coil, the primary current rises gradually, with the current rise delayed as the number of windings in the coil increases.In an ignition coil without resistor type, since the length of time the breaker points are closed is long when the engine speed is low, enough current flows so that a secondary voltage which is sufficiently high can be obtained.However, when the engine speed is high, the time the breaker points are in contact is shortened and not enough primary current flows, resulting in the secondary voltage becoming low.In an ignition coil with resistor type, the number of windings in primary coil is reduced, thus be impeded by self-induction. Therefore the primary current rise time is faster. In this way, sufficient primary current flows even at high speeds and drops in the secondary voltage can be prevented.

[fas133]

After reading the above article i inspected my car's coil and found that it has integrated resistance type coil in it but is not using it's resistance so i changed the connections accordingly and noticed better fuel consumption on motorway.Also noted stable rpm on hot engine(i.e after driving for an hour in city traffic).

[smijaz]

@fas133
Thanks for sharing the idea and your experience

Can you post the pic of the coil and its connections (Close ups would be great)

Can you post the Ohm reading of primary/secondary coil with and without resistance.

Is it Denso GT coil?

As per my knowledge, originally mehran & coure comes with external resistance IG coil , both have breaker point ignition system whereas khyber like cultus and alto has ignitor with signal generator type (CDI) ignition. In these cars oem IG coil is without any resistance coz of the efficiency of this system over breaker point.

If you think it is effective and does the trick, I will try it . BUT Denso GT coil is around Rs. 3000/piece so it will be an expensive experiment. You were lucky to have GT already installed.