Settling the Worm Gear vs. Spring Hose Clamp Issue

[pwuser162557941033]

I've encountered a lot of "mechanics" talking about using worm gear clamps on cooling, oil, etc. hoses because they allegedly perform better than spring clamps.

On the other hand, you'll often see OEM hoses using a spring action clamp, like so:

Now, I don't buy it.

A spring clamp seems to distribute clamping force evenly across the circumference of the hose, reacting to expansion and contraction of the material with temperature changes.

A worm gear clamp, by design, would bite harder on one point on the hose and would not evenly distribute clamping force. This effect would only grow worse as a hose expands and contracts.

I would assume that after completing several thermal cycles, the clamp would begin to cause a leak or even bite into the hose and breach it.

Many mechanics, like politicians, learn to confidently lie through their teeth to maintain business. I suspect that worm gear clamps are only used because they are adjustable, low cost, and don't require getting the sizing right, not because they offer any particular advantages.

What do you think?

P.S. Ever seen a rusted brake line jugaar fix with a couple-centimetre section of generic hose and two worm clamps?

[Xulfiqar]

A worm gear clamp, by design, would bite harder on one point on the hose and would not evenly distribute clamping force. This effect would only grow worse as a hose expands and contracts.

THIS!!!

I made a video once and shared it with my freinds on hose clamps, I showed a bunch of clamps which I recall were.

spring clamp
oetiker cinch clamp
ABA blue hose clamps
norma torro (Mercedes/BMW) clamp
bellville washer loaded worm clamp
regular perforated thread worm clamp

The best are spring type as they self adjust constantly forever, The bad thing is that they are an exact size and dont work on aftermarket hoses.

What I do with hoses that dont use spring clamps, I use a touch of hylomar or no.2 gasket maker (oldschool stuff) on the barb/nipple and then install the hose - it seals the hose and is removable in the future too, it prevents pitting of the barb which eventually leaks.

The bellville washer type worm clamp work fantastic but are very pricey - used in HD diesels etc. They are worm clamps which are self adjusting too.

The norma and ABA ones wont dig into the hose and apply a bit more even pressure compared to the perforated thread clamp. But are actually inferior to spring clamps in this regard, however they can easy accommodate aftermarket hoses too.

[pwuser162557941033]

Hylomar tip sounds like a good call, I'll use it on a hose that needs replacement.

FWIW, I've seen Chinese spring clamps available in different diameters, worth trying out with locally available hoses once OD is measured properly to see how they perform under pressure and thermal cycling.

+1 for mentioning Belleville washer clamps, thank you. Will try to see if I can find some Chinese "budget" executions. I'd love to see your video, too.

[pwuser162557941033]

Couldn't find Hylomar, used Harris (harris.com.pk) Genuine Gray Silicone Sealant Adhesive instead for my upper radiator hose secured with worm gear clamps. Sanded the pitted, rusted surfaces of the pipes as well.

Are you talking about Permatex No. 2 Gasket Maker? It's all just "silly cone" here. Resistance to ethylene glycol is not a feature of all RTVs or sealants, but I can't find one that specifically mentions resistance, like Permatex' Water Pump and Thermostat Housing Specialty RTV.

[Xulfiqar]

permatex number 2 is sold at oldschool markets like plaza and no.3 (indian head shellac) is sold at almost every generic motorcycle and car spare parts store - its recalled as "shilik ki botall" - it comes with the oldschool foam/cotton head on the end of a stick.

For the pitted aluminium, its best to use epoxy to build it up and refinish it, I do that for ancient stuff like oldschool BMW, Mercedes and Jag flanges which have been out of production for more than 3 decades now. (literally the foundries that made them are gone)