For those of you who haven't read my very first thread where I purchased a Bike, Learned to Ride and then took my very first Adventure Tour to Northern Pakistan, here is the link below;
https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/motorcycle-travel-diaries/225750-bike-tour-4-000-kms-karachi-naran-astor-gilgit-balistan-back-karachi
A Month back I saw some images on Facebook of a location in Baluchistan called Moola Chotuk. The pictures showed an absolutely beautiful waterfall and clear spring pond which I found irresistible.
I asked my friend Abid Baloch who had posted the images where exactly this location was. He told me they would prepare a plan to visit this location by the end of the month and I simply could not wait. They eventually planned a 3 days tour for the end of May. I was so excited, I was INN!
However, the problem I was running into was the idea of taking three days off work. I could only manage two days. Considering it would be a night travel, meaning I would have to take an extra day off to get sufficient sleep in order to ride the entire night and part of the next day to reach this location. Although I could join without sleep, but then when you are riding in a group if you feel sleepy you must stop and that would throw off the tempo of the entire group ride inconveniencing everyone. So it was essential I get at least a good 4 hours of sleep during the day before joining them on a full night ride. So the idea of joining them was beginning to look more and more bleak.
Then suddenly last Friday after Jumma Namaz the idea came to me that why not just go ahead and try to reach there by myself in the two days I had available on the weekend. So on my way home I quickly got a fresh oil change on the Bike, tightened the breaks, purchased a new tire tube for the rear tire, checked tire pressure and came home. In the event of a puncture I would simply replace the tube with a new one and pump it up until I reach a tire shop and then get the puncture repaired on the bad tube. But the most important thing I did when I was getting the oil change was I asked the shop for two 4 Liters Oil Cans which they use for Car oil changes. I wanted to take along clean fuel with me from Karachi for the road. So I topped up on fuel in the Bike as well as 3.5 L of oil in each of the two cans and squeezed them considerably before sealing the lids closed to allow for daytime sunshine and heat to expand the air within the cans without the fear of them exploding or leaking.
When I decided in the day I would go to Moola Chotuk I was wondering who I could call to join me on this crazy last minute weekend expedition. A few names crossed my mind whom I thought could make their availability to join me, but I also knew that both of them had already committed to joining the group at the end of May so that would have been unfair of me to ask them to join me instead. Then two others whom I knew would not go on the three days tour at the end of May unless I would go. I figured calling them would mean the end of this plan because both have an issue of riding at night, and then again riding at a decent speed of 80 km/hr or more has always been a problem for them. So I decided if I was to find and reach this place I had no alternative but to do it alone. Since I would be riding alone lack of sleep was not the least of my worries now, I would simply stop where I felt the need, and then carry on as per my comfort.
The next issue crossing my mind was the security situation in that region. I knew full well that hundreds of buses go to and from Karachi to Quetta daily, most of them travel during the night so it must be a safe route. Besides, the thought of my night time riding which would consist of me reaching half way to Khuzdar before dawn was quite comforting, while the remaining ride would be in daylight. I had studied the Google Map well to understand where Khuzdar was and knew from my friend that from Khuzdar there is an 80 km off roading required to get to Moola Chotuk but there was no indication on the map as to where that off road track was. So my guess was that at least locals in that region would know of this place, so I will ask as I go.
Without getting any sleep upon reaching home, I had dinner and began packing for the tour with the intention of leaving around midnight. I needed to travel light and make sure I had sufficient water and meds with a full First Aid Kit in case of any emergency. Knowing that mobile network would not be available was of concern but then whats the Adventure if all facilities are at your fingertips? I also packed two LED hand held night lights for emergency situations.
I packed two foam sheets for insulation from the uneven ground where I would sleep as well as insulation from the cold ground below. I also took along my seating cushion which I would use as a make shift pillow. I knew it would be hot so no need for a Tent as it would only make me sweat inside and instead I decided I would sleep anywhere in the open. I took a pair of slippers for when I would walk into the water. I took along an extra pair of jeans and T-Shirt as well as a pair of swimming shorts. I felt taking a towel would only add more load since its summer and I am sure I would dry quick. I packed a cap and sunglasses along with two large scarfs for when it would get hot, I would soak them with water and cover my head under the helmet and my neck and shoulders inside the jacket for cooling. I also packed a complete tool kit and put that in my back pack with the First Aid Kit and a few clothes that I mentioned above along with two small water bottles, I knew I would find water anywhere I go though it may not be mineral water but its WATER. And then I had my upper, knee pads, elbow pads and shin guards. I also wore a Green/Yellow Reflector Vest which I tend to use on all my rides. I found not only makes me visible to other traffic on the road, day or night. But it also has done wonders for me when passing police check posts, they treat me with respect and seldom stop me.
I finally tied all my luggage on the bike by 12:30 AM and on Friday Night (May 6th) after midnight I got on the road closer to 1 AM on my way to Hub. I tied my back pack with all supplies and clothes on the back seat and the rolled up foam with the Tire Pump rolled inside the foam on top of the back pack. On the rear carrier I ties the two oil cans with Fuel and covered them with a plastic sheet.
I had no issues with any Police check posts or the Rangers/Coast Guard on the way to Winder, I just rode on through without being stopped. The Police as usual, just waved me through.
Not sure where I was but I began feeling that as I would go up hill or around a curve and had to gear down or up there was a slight delay in the pick from the bike for a second or two, and then it would be fine. So I tried to remain in the same gear and as steady a speed as possible. Was not sure what was causing this but it had gotten extremely cold during the night ride in Baluchistan. I had many trucks that I passed and a few Buses race and pass me by at hight speeds with blaring headlights.
Closer to 5 am I decided I needed to stop somewhere for Fajar namaz. Around 5:15 am I stopped at a chai hotel where there was a make-shift mosque with simply knee high rocks lined for the boundary. I parked the bike and after performing wudu prayed namaz and then got ready with all the elbow and knee pads with the shin guards and started the bike.
The Bike DID NOT Start !
The battery was fine since the self kept cranking but the fuel simply was not reaching the engine. I should mention here that the only thing I know about the bike is how to ride it, and to check the oil level from the side. Nothing more.
Soon the truckers who had been sleeping there overnight and and were just waking up came to my rescue and tried to give their interpretation of what might be the problem. After much pulling and yanking the tube leading the fuel from the tank to the engine Suddenly the bike started. I kept it running while putting my tools back and mounted my bike and got on the road.
I thought perhaps during the very chilly night ride, the humidity may have entered the fuel line causing this delay in response. I couldn't really think of anything else. I knew I had sufficient fuel so it couldn't have been a fuel problem. I figured I would ride it off and as the day got warmer it would be fine.
By 8 AM I was reaching Wadh which was still 5 km ahead, and that's when my bike started missing indicating my reserve was to be turned on (Approx 340 Km from Kharachi). I had already ridden approximately 40 km within Karachi during the day plus the 340 km of the travel meant it was approximately 380 km before my reserve had come on. I simply turned on the reserve and kept on riding.
I stopped in Wadh and had Chai, Paratha and an Omelet for breakfast in a local dhaba shop. There was only a chatai on the floor inside the shop where people took off their slippers and sat on the ground while they ate. I did the same, took off my boots, sat on the mat and leaned on the round gow takkia while waiting for nashta. It was a wonderful 20 min rest with breakfast.
I decided not to load up on fuel there for two reasons. For one, I had plenty of backup fuel, nearly 7 Liters tied to the bike carrier in the two oil cans. And second, I wanted to see just how much milage the reserve would give me. I calculated that if its a 2 L reserve then based on a 35 km/L consumption ration I should get at least 70 km from the reserve, and Khuzdar was only 58 km ahead of Wadh. So I carried on to Khuzdar on reserve.
I reached Khuzdar at around 9:15 AM and drove to the first PSO pump on my left upon entering Khuzdar. Loaded up on fuel while chatting with the pump attendant. He was very amazed I rode all night from Karachi to Khuzdar. Upon asking, he said his name was Ghulam Ali.
After refueling our discussion carried on and he asked if he could offer me a cup of Tea. I told him I just had tea with breakfast less than an hour ago, so he offered me water and I accepted. Normally petrol pumps have a cooler with a glass standing next to the pump but here I did not see one and Ghulam Ali walked away, I did not see where he had gone since I was moving my bike to the side, away from the pump.
A few minutes later I saw him walking towards me from a tuck shop situated in a distance on the other corner of this huge petrol pump property with a bag in his hand which seemed like water bottles. I figured he just purchased water for me ????
When he handed me the bag it had a nice and cold small water bottle and another red soda drink along with two bags of chips. I told him a glass of water from anywhere would have sufficed and there was no need for this. I was about to refuse but felt he was giving me this from the joy of his heart and had already purchased it so I did not want to offend him when he was demonstrating his hospitality, so I accepted with a great deal of gratitude.
We then moved on to the discussion of where I wanted to go and I figured he may be able to give me some direction in which to travel. But he gave me more than I had expected.
He told me there were two ways to go. I would of course have to ride back towards Khi for a good 10 Mins where I would find a road cutting to the left (which I remember crossing as I was coming). It was approximately 10 km back and that was the paved road I would take. On that road after a good 5 km or so I would see an off-road track with a small sign for Moola Chotuk. That would be entirely off road with no paved road and that was the shorter route.
The second route was a bit longer, he said. And he did not know just how much longer but he said it would have much of it paved and some off road as well. But it would be a better option. All I had to do was to carry on that very same road without turning on the off road track with the Moola sign. I would first have to go to a town called Karkh after which I would head to Kharzan, and from there go towards Chotuk.
There would be no signs but I could as I go. And that's what I did.
With the lingering day's heat coming on I decided not to stop for photography and make it my first priority to reach Moola Chotuk.
I said my farewell after wetting the scarfs I brought with me and wrapped one on my head and put on my helmet while the second I wrapped around my neck allowing the water to drip down my back inside the jacket as well as a bit on my chest. I got back on the road and found that left turn some 10 km outside of Khuzdard on my way back to Karachi. I turned left and soon saw the sign clearly where the off road track began towards Moola Chotuk. I kept on going on the paved road which went for quite some and I was doing speeds nearly 90-100 km. I rarely travel at those speeds but the road was empty and straight so I remained at those speeds for a while until I came onto turns.
Soon the paved road ended and the rough roads began with gravel. It seemed they were in the process of paving that track of road as well so it was full of the tiny gravel they set before making a road. I crossed I think, two bikes (70's) some km apart from each other where the rider was trying to patch his puncture. After passing the first bike with a puncture I slowed down and turned around to come back to the first bike to see if he needed any tools or pump. When I came close to him and asked he smiled and said he has everything. I asked if he needed water, he said no thanks. So I said my Salam and carried on. I slowed down when I saw a second bike in a distance stopped, by looking closely as I rode by he also had all his supplies around him so I carried on without asking.
This naturally got me seriously concerned indicating there is a real chance of getting a puncture in this region due to sharp rocks and the heat which would soften the tire. I always begin my travels by making dua for a safe travel and reciting Ayat ul Kursi, and again recited Ayat ul Kursi and kept riding.
As mentioned earlier, I know nothing about bikes and although I have seen people change the Tire Tube on a GS 150 but never did it myselfand quite frankly, dread the thought of having to do it alone.
Riding through the rough unpaved road was not only difficult because of the tiny sharp rocks beneath, but some of that track also went right through dried river beds with loose stones underneath making it difficult to balance. And with the fear of falling, I had to slow down substantially and at times rode with my legs spread apart for better balance while keeping my feet touching the rocks from time to time as I would roll to one side or the other.
I finally came to a tube-well just to the side of the road where it was gushing out cold water. This is where I stopped for my first set of snaps and to again wet my scarfs for cooling.
