Summer Present. Heatup Issue, Mitsubishi Galant 6A13

[8502]

Hello

Last year I started a thread about my car having heatup issue and ended up using direct fan during the whole summer and in winter somehow i left them on auto and no problems till few days back. Before that I was using ac with no problem and suddenly after oil change and steering change on the test run when we put some extra pressure on engine the car started heating up with ac on. From that day onwards the car is having heat up when using air conditioner without that no problem.
During winter I checked the whole system for leaks and found 2 which were repaired and thought atlast this problem is gone but it's back.

Current situation is that fan are getting high but without ac they run slow and only go high speed when the needle is at 75% mark the speed does change when the needle left it's normal stay position. With ac they always run at good speed but not like direct speed. What I don't understand is why it doesn't heatup on direct fan. Even with ac on and testing acceleration. I checked with opd scanner the fan goes to high speed when the temp is at 104 or 105. But at that temp the needle is at 75% high mark. At around 92 the needle leaves it's normal stay point. Fans are working everything checked. But still problem presist.

Also once at 75% mark if I switch off the AC and leave the car the temp get back to normal after like 5 to 7 mins.

Please share your opinion please.

[omersiddiqui5482]

@Xulfiqar @capsat

[capsat]

if you have been using plain water in the system most likely the water pump is corroded and cavitation is happening if the coolant is used there is some pressure leakage, in system.

temp needle glide happens when system is losing pressure and fail to suck in from expansion tank after purge under pressure. Check the radiator cap 1st thing 1st then focus over the water pump. only removal can expose the extent of damage to impeller fins

[SER_GTR]

Are You Using Coolant Or Plain Water? Drain Water And Use Coolant 50/50 And Observe Temps Then.

2ndly Did U Get Your Ac Checked ..Overhcarged Gas , Damaged/Blocked Condensor Can Also lead To Overheating

Did Your Cooling System Had Thermostat Installed?

[8502]

All checked.

[8502]

I am using coolant of good quality 50/50, ac is checked there is no over charging condenser raditore were steam washed. Thermostat is there as well. I am not loosing coolant at all. Only a sip in a week interval in resovoir.

[8502]

Is there any chance there is air in the system. There is bleeder screw can anyone please share how to bleed air with the bleeder screw. I mean start the car or any other precaution.

[SER_GTR]

start car and once the engine has reached operating temperature(feel the radiator hose getting hot)., turn the coolant bleed screw one to two turns counterclockwise but don't remove the screw off the thermostat housing or you'll have a stream of boiling coolant which can seriously burn you. DONT Remove it..just loose one or two turn enough to bleed any air bubble stuck.

When you see a stream of coolant free of air bubbles flowing from under the screw, tighten the screw again.
Turn off the engine and wait for it to cool.
Add more new coolant to the radiator.

you can also burp it by lifting car on jack front front secured with stands ( radiator level higher than engine).remove radiator cap and start engine and wait till car reaches operating temp.. once it heats up...system will automatically get rid of bubbles trapped ..

[capsat]

to purge air from system

i remove radiator cap over night when engine is hot and auto fan shut down

[dani_kk]

Im sorry. Will reply you soon hamid bhai

[stallian]

You need to chk your tempreature guage before doing any thing. Folow these steps.
Step 1
Unplug the temperature gauge from the sending unit. This is usually located to the right of the engine.

Step 2
Turn the ignition key to the "On" position. Do not start the car.
Step 3
Ground the temperature gauge wire to the engine. You should use jumper wires to ground the temperature gauge.

Step 4
Check the temperature gauge inside the car. The reading should be in the middle between hot and cold.

Step 5
Turn the ignition key to the "Off" position.

Step 6
Check the fuses inside the car. If the fuse connected to the temperature gauge is burned out you should replace it.

Step 7
Ground the jumper wire connected to the sending unit terminal located next to the engine.

Step 8
Turn the ignition key to the "On" position.

Check the temperature gauge inside the car. If the temperature now reads hot, then there is a open wire in the sending unit. You should immediately have the temperature gauge repaired.

[stallian]

Engine overheating with AC on is generally caused by one of two possibilities. One, is increased engine load caused by a failing AC compressor. The AC compressor adds rotational load to the engine and if the compressor is wearing and becoming increasingly harder to turn this can cause engine overheating.

The second common cause is a cooling system not working efficiently. The AC condenser heats up as the AC is being used so the engine cooling system has to deal with this increased heat. Plugged or blocked radiator condenser fins, fans not working efficiently or a water pump that is not circulating coolant could all cause overheating with AC on only.

One last possibility though more unlikely as the vehicle would generally read hot whether the AC is on or not is a faulty engine coolant temperature sensor. The coolant temp needs to be read out with a temperature gun and needs to compare with the gauge. The radiator and condenser fins should be cleaned..
And to check temp guage above mention steps should be followed. these items do correct the issue inshAllah.