Suzuki Cultus Fan Club (2000-2016)

[ahmedali.kas9]

This is some kind of boot leak, (mech said not too urgent

[ahmedali.kas9]

My car will be going to denter soon for rust on rocker panels and one side of the roof, (where the. rubbers and the top of the door meet). The rusted piece of the roof will be cut out and replaced with another. He will paint that area and then compound polish the whole car to make sure everything matches and the car has a mirror finish instead of blurry reflection it has now. Over the years the car has been showered here and there, and there is little to no original paint left on the body. He has quoted 3k for compound polishing and 8k for rust repair (which he will replace the affected areas) I plan on asking hime to polish the chrome grill up front and the emblems on the back ("suzuki" & "cultus") I will also ask him to polish the factory chrome tip on the exhaust. I will ask him if there is any left over paint, to paint the side mirrors. What do you guys think, while he ask extra for this? Anything I should keep in mind when handing the car over to him? He says the process will require us to leave the car for 3 days.

[ahmedali.kas9]

if I am cutting the manifold on these redlines, what about on gasket itself? do I leave it be or do it need to cut that too? I'm confused. Also the texture of the iron is really hard to clean up the leaked oil. So any suggestions to how I can clean it up?

@Xulfiqar

[ahmedali.kas9]

My father claims that he feels that the rear end of the car seems to wobble or is "loose" as he describes it and the car (to him) seems to be driving not smoothly. At this point I'm numb to how the car is feeling. Any ideas?

[Xulfiqar]

you dont need to cut the gasket, its pliable so that doesnt matter at all. To clean the manifold get a denter ustaad to use his welding torch to burn the oil off.

OR

you can make a solution of strong soda ash (NaOH) and apply it to the manifold (when its off the engine otherwise the soda will eat through the aluminium of the head).

Also find the original heatshield of the exhaust manifold or have one made from dimpled heat shield material or even plain sheet metal (like the original), it helps keep engine bay temperatures under control and wont cook that ac line going over the exhaust (whoever did that to your car was specially crazy)

[Xulfiqar]

check the rear suspension control arm bushings - they also wear out like the front.

[ahmedali.kas9]

clean the manifold get a denter ustaad to use his welding torch to burn the oil off.

My car will be going to the denter after this gasket work is done, so I'm guessing that it is safe to assume I can't to that with the manifold on the car?

soda ash (NaOH)

I believe that is caustic soda if I am not wrong. (what do I mix it with to activate it?) Vinegar?

or have one made from dimpled heat shield material or even plain sheet metal (like the original)

Can a denter do that?

ac line going over the exhaust (whoever did that to your car was specially crazy)

here is a picture of the engine bay, (dirty, yes a detail is overdue)
the ac lining seems to be short in general, how can this be fixed or should I not bother?

[Xulfiqar]

You want to mix caustic ash with vinegar? You feeling ok? Problems at home?

Caustic ash solution means caustic ash in water, its highly corrosive but is best to clean oily exhaust manifolds, dont attempt with manifold on the engine, you will damage the head.

Your ac lines have been butchered by some novice, a real bad novice too, seems like someone wanted to install a “mini pijaaro or deoot ka komressor” to make a payday for themselves.

At least cover the suction line, its really close to the blazing heat of the exhaust manifold.

[ahmedali.kas9]

I'll ask the denter to create some sort of shield. Should I insulate that part of the line they way @agoodfriend RK Niazi did?

[Xulfiqar]

The factory ac suction line is insulated with a loose fitting corrugated aluminized tube, some remnants of it should be on the hose itself,

[ahmedali.kas9]

I think this is what you mean? I wonder where I could source this from

[Xulfiqar]

Yes this

In khi it was available near city court market where they sold industrial piping.

This is known as “heat shield” by the shop owners. You can buy an even better one than this too there.

[mrahiliftikhar]

Suggest me Best Windscreen for Suzuki Cultus Model 2010
Jis ki build Quality achi ho View clear aiye agr kisc ko Price ka pta toh Kindly woh b share kry

[ahmedali.kas9]

After weeks of delays, I was finally able to get the gasket work done. My heart dropped when I saw the head. This experience has left a hole in my heart and I don't know what to do. We discovered that the head had not been faced once, not twice but at least three times considering how many mm it had lost. My mechanic said this as soon as he took out the bolts from inside the valve cover. He said that those bolts usually have one washer or none. The ones on my car had two washers in all 4 bolts. 2 of the bolts were pretty rough. (rusted). He has now add one more washer to two more bolts. The reason for the oil leak from the head was not because of the gasket but because of how shallow the head was. He said it will last as is for 1-1.5years until I have to get it welded to its original height or place the head entirely. The head (where the valve stems are) is in its very initial stages of beginning to rot due to rust in the cooling system. The head (where you can see the top of the pistons) has been welded before.

[ahmedali.kas9]

Also my mechanic didn't let me cut off the chunks off the exhaust manifold saying that it will weaken the manifold and possibly cause problems. Didn't feel like explaining to him why I wanted to cut it so I let it be. He also stated after seeing all this that the car wouldn't be able to handle or "support" a thermostat valve looking at the system now. I still want to disregard what he said but I can't help feeling that there might be some truth in what he's saying. The pipe the goes from the engine block into the bottom of the radiator has at least on line completely choked. When I pressed the rubber hose after it coming off the metal pipe I heard CRUNCHES and muddy water came out a bit. This is the rust in the system.

Looking back, I probably should've posted this in the other thread, but oh well. @miqdadkanani @krafiq @Xulfiqar

[ahmedali.kas9]

Forgot to add, when he picked up the upper half of the engine, (where the carb and exhaust manifold are attached and to reveal the piston heads, all the water gushed down on the head and filled up two cylinders, he used a cloth to soak up the stagnant water and then used compressed air to blow out and dry out the rest. Now when I went to pick up the car after everything was done, I checked the dipstick and sure enough there were water droplets on the whole dipstick up until where there should be oil, and there was oil but it looked like chocolate milk (not a lot, like I could clearly differentiate the water and oil, it wasn't mixed). I showed it to him and he said that a little water probably got in, but no worries, it should be fine/gone after 30-40kms of driving. I would change the oil, but it's only been 150kms since I got the oil changed. What do you guys think?

[miqdadkanani]

I am confused here. Are you planning to flush the cooling system after all this engine repair work or have you attempted that already?

[miqdadkanani]

dont mind the rusty pipes. All of them can be replaced and they arent too expensive either. The actual thing IMO is that the radiator and coolant routes in the head, cylinder and intake manifolds should be rust free.

[Xulfiqar]

You need a new cylinder head, this one is beyond use as your cam timing will be slightly off due to the height of the head unless you make an offset woodruff key for the camshaft.

And you will have spark knock problems too due to the raised compression.

If you notice the gasket has failed on the exhaust manifold side more than the intake, this is due to the exhaust manifold pieces causing warping. If you check the “face/plane” where the manifold fits, it will be bowed out of shape too, cutting those castings fixes this problem, have the machinist always check plane on the manifold face.

And you need to remove that pump and check,

[Xulfiqar]

Thats the heater return connection, replace the entire metal pipe, remove the rubber pipes and blow clean and then blow through heater to clean it out too.

And always reuse the factory style hose clamps like you see on the lower hose, not the screwtype that you see on the upper one unless you find actual banded SS clamps with rolled edges.