Suzuki every a/c issue

[affanhaq94]

Hello everyone,

Need assistance diagnosing an intermittent A/C issue. 2015 Suzuki Every Turbo, r06a engine.

So, AC has worked fine since I purchased the vehicle 1.5 yrs ago. However, upon usage this year, a/c will randomly cut out while driving.

A/C pressure was 40-45 psi on low side during idle, outside temp 42 Celsius.

So, i hooked up my scan tool and ran diagnostics while on a test run. I was unable to recreate the issue, but I am going to try again.

This problem occurs usually during moderate to hard braking. On this 660cc vehicle, the comp shuts off when braking, and turns back on when brake is released.

However, I have noticed, intermittently, I believe the compressor is not kicking back on, resulting in warm air inside the cabin. We shut off the a/c. Turn back on a minute later and it works perfectly fine for however long, until the comp doesn't come back on again.

I have since checked refrigerant pressure again. It's fine. I have washed /cleaned the condenser. Wasn't very dirty.

Unfortunately it only occurs when driving and due to location, I am unable to physically see the compressor when the issue happens.

I am going to try and jack up the vehicle and remove the belt cover to inspect the compressor and connector.

Any ideas?

@Xulfiqar
@dani_kk

[sindhpolice114]

Check your cabin filter first, and make sure that when u turn on the A/C both the fans behind radiator swtich on as well.

Seems to be issue with compressor itself, maybe the compressor clutch is having some issues.

Or I suggest first getting your AC refrigerant fully topped up with correct refrigerant and inspect for leaks. It could be that your system is leaking gas.

[affanhaq94]

Cabin filter is cleaned. Radiator fan is working fine.

A/c refrigerant is at appropriate level.

[sindhpolice114]

Maybe then its issue with compressor itself.

How about your evaporator coil, is that working well?

[affanhaq94]

AC works just fine when it works which is 70% of the time. Air is quite chilled and good.

Only it seems when compressor doesn't kick back on is when issue is caused. Say I drive then stop the car on the side of the road, I can sometimes hear the compressor randomly kick back on its own.

It's a weird intermittent problem. Either some sort of switch issue, loose connection or internal comp fault is my guess.

I am trying to diag further before I get into replacing parts for no reason.

[dani_kk]

Hi, can you let us know the high side reading as it's Important aspect while digging into any issues of ac system.

Such type of issues are basically associated with the bad
Magnetic coil or weak magnetic coil.

So I believe if everything else is perfect you just need to replace the magnetic coil and clutch.

Bad refrigerant pressure switch or contaminated connector of refrigerant pressure switch also does Almost the same behaviour.

[affanhaq94]

Thanks,

Will dig a bit deeper into this and report what I find

[affanhaq94]

So I was able to do some more diag on my every.

I went to an ac shop and purchased a high side fitting. Tried putting it on the high side but it wouldn't fit and leaked refrigerant out. I went back and exchanged it. Same thing..

Returned it and went to another ac shop and found a better quality fitting. The readings are:

Low side: 50-55, high side :195-200 psi, outside temp today was 44 Celsius.

I took a long test drive with my scan tool attached. After about 20 minutes of driving, slowing for a speed bump the a/c started to blow warm and hot air. I immediately pulled over and opened the seat to see the compressor. The clutch was not engaged. I disconnected the electrical connector and checked voltage. It was getting 13.85 volts, meaning the comp should have been on. I turned off the a/c control and voltage went to zero. Turned on again, voltage was 13.85 volts +/-5.

I reconnected the a/c connector and within 5 seconds the comp kicked on. I had a/c the whole ride home until I braked for a speed bump next to my house and it stopped again.

I tried swapping the relay for the comp with another, didn't seem to help.

I am thinking Ive got a bad connection or the comp/clutch is failing.

I tried to ohm test it, got around 6-11ohms for the clutch coil. I am going to let the engine cool and try to get a more solid reading.

Air flow also remains constant from the vents.

[affanhaq94]

The scan tool also shows a/c 'on' meaning the ecm is indeed commanding it on, which also was confirmed by my voltage check. However, the clutch wasn't engaged.

Unless there is something else, such as a pressure switch or something causing issues. Further guidance is appreciated!

[sindhpolice114]

I hope this can be of some help

[affanhaq94]

It seems to be narrowing down to the compressor or clutch unit itself, more likely the clutch or clutch coil. I'm going to test the resistance of the coil again and will post back. It's a single wire with ground through comp body.

[affanhaq94]

After letting the engine cool for a few hrs, I got a reading of 8.4-8.6 ohms on the clutch coil. Research I quickly did shows it should be between 4-5 ohms

Anything below and above this value calls for replacement. Have also seen conflicting info about this on some forums.

Want to confirm with experts if this is true before I go ahead and start searching for the part.

Also, i am going to attempt to see if the coil is replaceable without removing the compressor, as I would rather not deal with removal/replace of refrigerant if I don't need to

[dani_kk]

Yes it indeed looks you've a bad coil so replace it with clutch. But once your ac was engaged 50-55 psi showed me your compressor looks weak..

You should confirm it in daytime, like rev it slightly to 2500-3000rpm and see if low side gets better to 30-40ish and high side climbs to 220-240plus and the suction pipe gets cold.
If that's the case my advice would be replace complete compressor... But confirm as I've suggested.

Place the vent thermometer and take a value of this aswell while on idle where low side was 50-55.

I'm sure while you rev it slightly the temperature readings will go a little cooler and low side will drop and high side will go higher.

Just let me know this but don't do any service until these above tests are conducted.

[msabbasi]

While you seem to be on the right track with the correct diagnosis. Have a look at the earth connection to the compressor/clutch. You loose the ac when you break. When that happens, the engine moves forward on its foundations (this is normal). Is the engine/transmission earth strap loose or has some corrosion making a bad earth? Just for laughs you could run a temporary lead from the earth terminal of the battery to the compressor body and go for a test drive.

[affanhaq94]

Will take these in account and update when I've got some time to check it out again.

[affanhaq94]

Aoa.

I would like to apologize as I may have misdiagnosed/took a mis-step. I checked pressures without realising quite a lot of refrigerant escaped from the system when I got that faulty high side service valve.

I realized the AC was weak now/not blowing cool air. It clicked that I wasted a lot of refrigerant trying to get those two stupid valves to fit.

So, I added a bit of refrigerant and have now confirmed that the AC is blowing ice cold.

My pressure is also back to showing 40 on the low side +/- a few psi (which I had in my original post). And the high side is showing 230 psi +/-.

The inside air blowing through the vents is also nice and cool, however, I do not have a temp gauge I can check with at this time.

I am going to continue using my vehicle and see if I can recreate the issue with the compressor again. If so, I will go from there. I would rather not jump the gun if not need be.

I also noticed, the first time I opened the refrigerant dust caps on both low and high side, I got a very tiny pressure release, kind of like when you open a half used bottle of pepsi. I think this may mean my Schrader valves are getting old/o rings may need to be replaced.

I will keep the thread updated with what I find in the future going forward.

Thank you for the assistance!

[affanhaq94]

Would like to respond as a/c seems to be working good for the last week.

Here's what I had done:

Under suggestion of a family member, I visited Nasir car AC in hopes to find another coil. However, Mr Nasir did not really listen to what I had to say, advised not to replace the coil and told me to remove washer from behind comp pulley.

So, I started to reassemble the pulley/clutch, but upon removing one of the two existing washers, found that the AC clutch would constantly rub the pulley. This told me Nasir sahib was incorrect, and that my clutch is not worn enough to require removing a shim/washer.

So, I cleaned everything up, reinstalled and since then, AC has worked fine without cutting out.

This tells me that my original diagnosis of an intermittent fault with the compressor coil was most likely correct and there may just have been either a dirty connection, or the coil is weak.

So, if I start to have issues again with this in the future, I will most likely replace the coil itself.

Thanks for the assistance and will update this thread if anything changes.