The "Know How To" SQ Build Log

[devils_smile]

This is a build log for my corolla which from factory had the most abysmal audio setup Indus Motors could provide. I mean, even the top of the line Altis has a pathetic sounding setup but between these two, it's still a winner over what the XLi & Gli models came with. And if you think this issue is only limited to Indus Motors, you'd be so wrong. So is the case with the latest gen civic, city, etc etc. Infact, almost any car that rolls off the factory line will suffer from having a bad audio setup. It's just the way every manufacturer saves money (which is the goal at the end of the day). It just so happens that some are worse than the others and if you think your factory setup is great (you would if you're not an audiophile), I like the little bubble you're living in

So that leaves me with a 2017 XLi that has been experimented on but the plan is to build a setup using some of the newest gear available in the market and some that has been in my closet for a while. YOU probably don't need to go down the same road I'm taking but rest assured, even if you have the most resonating junk box with wheels (You know what i'm talking about Pak Suzuki), a decent budget with get a you a setup that's gonna sound so much better than most of the "Premium" setups provided by big name manufacturers

Like previously stated, there will be some new equipment that's gonna be used but the focus here will also be on the preparations done leading to the build, the hard work put into sorting all the wiring and routes and finally, the tune itself. You won't see the details in this build being applied to any setup around you because in Pakistan, Jugaar zindabad. So sit back, relax and enjoy

[devils_smile]

Sound Treatment:

The first stage of any good sounding car audio setup is to actually prep the cabin itself. Depending on how much of a madman you want to be, this can be done in a number of ways. We can start with the basic upgrade and move down the line to going all out. My car is 3/4 of the way there to being an all out example but at some point you gotta ask, is it worth it? lol

To make this simple for the ton's of people who ask me or in general want to know how to make their cabins more isolated ( be that for daily driving or having a great environment for a car audio setup), this is the answer. There are technically 4 PRODUCTS that when combined will isolate your car's cabin from ambient noises. This doesn't mean 100% isolation but the differences are staggering

1) Product 1: Constrained Layer Dampers (CLD)

This is the most common type of product that's available in almost every car audio shop that you step into. The layman term being "Sound Deadener". Mind you, this product is meant for 1 thing and 1 thing only, reducing the resonance created by the panels in a car. It will not block noise. Rather, eliminate the panel resonance created which in return will make it seem like your cabin feels more quieter. Being this common due to it's vast marketing tactics, customers often fall for the "bhai yai aapki road noise khatam kar lai gi" tactics used by almost every shopkeeper. You can find more info on CLD applications on google but the next question is, which sound deadener sheet should you get?

I've used the likes of Stinger, Ground Zero, CV, Caliber, Infinity, 3M etc and prices ranged from 1500-4000 a sheet. Unless you want to spend the extra amount for the premium product, at the end of the day, they all do the same job, reducing/eliminating the resonance created from the panels. So depending on your budget, even if you go for the likes of i.e. 3M/Recoil CLD sheet, it will help your setup sound better.

So why exactly do shopkeepers push you to buy the premium product? Well, they're gonna claim that the premium product is thicker and that'll do a better job eliminating resonance ( at least someone who has the basic knowledge will say that cuz the rest will keep insisting your car will become a RR or a Maybach if you use these ) and they'll be right. But you need to keep a balance and using 50% of the expensive stuff or 70-80% of the slightly thinner sheet will still almost have the same benefits and cut your cost by half. The other big claim is that the butyl on the more expensive sheets wont melt or peel off

Now that's some good marketing considering most of these sheets are made in the same factory somewhere in China with different branding stamped. Here's the shocker, you "PREP THE SURFACE" and you are good to go. Remember, if your surface if properly cleaned, your sheets are nicely heated (don't burn the butyl) and you use the correct tools (rolling tool easily available on daraz/ali express for 500-900 rupees) to put it on, that damn sheet won't be coming off any time soon even if it's under the hood. I've seen idiots throwing on gladen/gz sheets on the metal panels of doors without even wiping the damn spot with a cloth let alone properly clean it with isopropanol and letting it dry before apply the sheets.

Last but not the least, you do not need 100% coverage. 50-60% coverage will get the job done. This is something to consider for people who are on a budget and being forced to completely cover their doors with the sheets. Obviously, the flimsier the car, the more product you will need to get the best results.

Your doors are priority ONE since these house the midbass drivers. You want to ensure there's no rattles coming from there. You can do the inner and outer skins and even do the plastic door card to add mass for the plastic to stop it from resonating. If you are running a sub, getting the trunk done is a great idea and so is the rear parcel shelf which in most pkdm car's resonate like shit when you have a sub in the trunk. If you hate the way your roof clings/clangs when it's raining, throw some sheets on there as well. And if you're going all out, why not do the floor, firewall, hood as well

Here's a look at my car getting the CLD treatment. You'll see i've used Infinity/Caliber sheets. Since my aim is to make this car's cabin as quite and cut off from outside ambient noises, I've gone all out. This being an XLI also meant I didn't have to worry too much about wiring looms in the doors, another thing that's covered up by shopkeepers under the sheets making servicing the doors a nightmare. Unclip your wiring looms, install the sheets and clip them back over the sheets. Tomorrow if you have to remove a window regulator and service a lock, it'll be easier to simply cut off the sheet from the access hole on the inner skin. Not end up with a wiring harness completely covered in butyl

The aim of CLD sheets is to target structure borne vibrations that occur in panels in the frequency range (20-250Hz)

And Now Onto The Plastic Panels

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Product 2: Noise Blockers

This is a stage which is least practiced here in Pakistan. I myself haven't done so in the past but it's something that will get done very soon. Reason being that the closer you get to a 100% coverage, the more beneficial the product is in reducing the cabin noise. The product in this situation is what we refer to as Mass Loaded Vinyl sheets. These are dense mats that are not just that bit harder to work with but will cost you a substantial amount. Do it right and it'll be the most beneficial upgrade you can do but the process is hectic. Due to their mass, they are not recommended to be installed on the roof. Most companies don't have a peel and stick option and even if you are able to get them to stick on a vertical panel (e.g. doors), you would still need additional hardware to ensure the sheet doesn't just collapse under it's own weight.

The only sensible area to use MLV's are flat on the floor. Now while that may give you some benefits, it won't be as much as when you do full coverage. "Sound acoustic energy will travel around and take the path of least resistance right past the noise barrier". OUCH

For anyone who does want to go all out and still keep an eye on their budget, get good old MLV sheets for the floor and purpose made noise barrier sheets ( usually consist of mlv and decoupler foam ) for the doors. It'll still be a big hit on your wallet but it'll be the best way to go ahead with

The over all aim of a MLV noise blocker is act as a barrier for frequencies ranging from (500-5000Hz) from transmitting into the cabin. This makes them great wide-band frequency blockers

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Product 3: Decouplers / Isolators

There's a few things I always get done on my setups and it's become a norm in recent times. Looking at the small things that kill the quality of music. What good is your expensive car audio equipment if you end up with creaks and rattles? It starts with the smallest of things like tightening all the screws and nuts on your door while you have the door cards off, or like tightening any screws on the plastic door cards themselves, or maybe replacing the plastic tabs with new ones that have those foam surround on both ends to isolate it from the plastic and the metal. If you dont want to spend a 1000 rupees on a bag of 100 clips, you can always use some cloth tape (tessa tape) to do the same making sure those clips done rattle about when your door card is placed back. Try it the next time you have your door card off. See how most will jiggle jiggle.

But this biggest upgrade you can do here is to get some decoupling material which will prevent panels from vibrating against each other and also isolates your drivers. While there are mixed reviews about CCF being able to absorb noise and also block it, one things for certain. It can't block noise as well as a Nose barrier (The more dense mass there is, the more inert the product is helping in blocking noise from passing through) and it can't absorb noise as well as a Open Cell foam (more on this next). So while it might have some benefits in those two categories, it's main aim is as a decoupler.

Advantages to CCF as a decoupler are the fact that they are super easy to work with. Almost every manufacturer has these in a peel and stick application. Depending on how thick of a foam you are going for, just make sure that there is as much contact area between the 2 panels when they are put back together but not too much where installing the panel becomes an issue. CCF are typically very compressible and can easily be cut with a scissor or a blade knife. Installing the decoupler on the trim / door card / plastic panels is easier to work with making serviceability easier rather than having to stick it directly onto the metal surface.

In some cases, manufacturers will also sell these with a layer of aluminum foil. The aim is to reduce heat transfer as the foil acts as a reflector. But don't expect wonders. Using it in combination with a CLD will provide better results. I've done this on the roof of my car and will be following up on a DIY experiment very soon on how much of a difference there is between my car's cabin temp and a similar corolla

Every removable panel on my car has been treated with CLD and CCF decouplers. This includes the front wheel fender plastic trims too. 3 types of CCF decoupling sheets were used depending on the thickness needed

With the doors and roof done, lets focus on the A,B,C Pillars

If this isn't a joke, I don't know what is. IMC conveinetly provides this small piece of foam inside the B-pillar cavity tucked away. Seriously, what possible reasons could there be for this. I had to sound treat the cavity, throw in some additional CCF sheets and restuff the area with the same old Lambda / foam.

With that completed, finished off the B pillars too

You'll still see almost all the panels still housing the old original clips. Initially when I snapped everything back together, the rattling got worse. And it wasnt due to the panels, it was the damn clips moving freely since the bite teeth area on these clips become loose after you take them off and reinstall them and so does the mounting section

I initially used some tessa cloth tape on the clips but decided to replace every single one of them and re used the cloth tape ensure I had no rattles

I also did the front lower kick panels and the rear wheel arch too

Got the fenders treated too with the CLD and CCF sheets

And the largest area of them all, the floor. Now like discussed before, Using this much CCF on the floor won't really make it act like a sound barrier. Sure it'll make a difference but the reason I did do this is because in order to install a MLV sheet, you need to decouple it from the metal panel itself. The CCF will act as the decoupler between the floor metal treated with CLD sheets and the MLV noise barrier

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Product 4: Sound Absorbers

The final stage of sound treating your car's cabin consists of sound absorbers. Typically, these are open cell foam types used by default. Most car manufacturers use this type of padding to help sound absorption since it's cheap and does a good job. But the point to remember is, on its own, it won't do you much good. Using it in conjunction with the other materials is how you'll get the maximum out of your time, money and effort. In Pakistan, the typical material referred to as a sound absorber is LAMBDA. You know, they weird carpet type foam pieces you find inside your car under the carpet and behind the door cards ( which our manufactures still cheap out on ). The porous structure allows sound waves to pass through helping the OCF in absorbing these. Unlike typical open cell polyester sheets which are also used by manufacturers, these provide better thermal insulating properties. But the drawbacks being that they are not durable when compressed and can get moldy due to moisture absorption. Polyester sheets on the other hand don't provide that much thermal insulating properties but are more resistant to wear and manufacturers are selling these after moisture treatment making them hydrophobic and more suited to this application

At the time when I was still waiting for some of my equipment to arrive, I had all the lambda removed and re utilized it on the rear speaker parcel shelf. I'm still using this lambda material around the car layered over the existing CLD and CCF sheets but the plan is to switch to hydrophobic OCF soon

The overall aim of sound absorbers is to absorb those higher sound frequencies (500-10000Hz)

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Master Source and Its Importance

Let’s talk about the foundation of any great audio setup: the source unit. Often referred to as the "brains" of the system, the head unit plays a critical role in determining the overall sound quality. For audiophiles, selecting the right source unit is essential, especially if a dedicated DSP (Digital Signal Processor) isn’t part of the build yet.

Why the Source Unit Matters

A quality head unit provides essential features that directly impact audio performance, including:
- Low Total Harmonic Distortion (THD): Ensures a clean, accurate signal.
- High Pre-Out Voltage: Reduces noise and improves signal clarity.
- Low Noise Floor: Preserves the integrity of audio, especially at low volumes.
- High Signal-to-Noise Ratio (SNR): Enhances clarity and reduces interference.
- Multiple Pre-Outs: Enables flexibility in system configuration.
- Advanced Audio Controls: Features like high-band EQ, time alignment, crossover settings, slope control, LPF/HPF filters, subwoofer control, and phase adjustment allow for precise tuning.

While some of these features are essential, others enhance the listening experience. Additional conveniences such as Android Auto, Apple CarPlay, Amazon Alexa, Pandora, Spotify, and Waze can significantly increase the cost of head units and are regarded as a luxury. Audiophiles often gravitate toward established brands like Pioneer, Kenwood, Sony, JVC, and Alpine. These brands are known for delivering on their promises—what’s on the box is what you get. Even their entry- and mid-level models can elevate a system, providing superior control and sound quality compared to generic Android units. While Android units offer attractive features at lower prices, they often compromise audio quality. Brands like Nakamichi and Onkyo may perform slightly better than generic models, but they still fall short compared to premium head units.

• Clipping at Lower Volumes: Often below 50% volume.
• Limited Audio Controls: Subpar EQ, crossover, and subwoofer control.
• Inferior Sound Processing: Leads to distortion and imbalanced sound stages.

If you must opt for an Android unit, invest in higher-quality models from reputable brands to minimize these drawbacks. Spending an extra 10,000–15,000 can significantly improve performance and reliability.

Real-World Example

CAR 1:

• Head Unit: Pioneer 205BT
• Components: Nakamichi CS1721
• Subwoofer: Pioneer TS-A2500LS4
• Amplifier: Nakamichi 60.4
• Rear Speakers: Factory Toyota speakers powered by the head unit

With this setup in an Aqua, the sound quality was exceptional. The Pioneer head unit’s 2V pre-outs delivered a clean signal, allowing the system to perform flawlessly even at high volumes. The subwoofer remained controlled, and the factory rear speakers provided excellent rear staging.

CAR 2:

• Head Unit: Nakamichi 5510 (Android-based)
• Components: Nakamichi CS1721
• Subwoofer: Pioneer TS-A2500LS4
• Amplifier: Nakamichi 60.4
• Rear Speakers: Factory Toyota speakers powered by the head unit

When the same equipment was transferred to a Revo and paired with the Nakamichi 5510, we faced several issues despite similar settings:

• Clipping: Front components distorted at 60-65% volume (Pioneers 60-65% is louder than the android panels and yet, there is no clipping whatsoever)
• Imbalanced Sound: Front stage overpowered the rear speakers to the extent that there was hardly any rear fill from the factory speakers (highlights the quality of the inbuilt amplifier)
• Subwoofer Performance: Lacked the tight, controlled bass notes from the Pioneer setup. Sub couldn't be fully turned off and LPF settings are not as adjustable as with premuim headunits

To address these issues, additional equipment (high-voltage line outputs) and extensive tuning were required. What would typically be a 10–15 minute tuning session with the Pioneer head unit turned into a 4-hour process. Despite these efforts, and the fact that we opted for new rear coaxials to improve the top end and midbass, I still felt like the source was the let down. Anyone who will demo this car will never know how good the same equipment sounded like with a different source

Pioneer AVH-2550NEX

So, where did this grand journey leave me? Squarely at the mercy of Indus Motors’ genius decision to bless us with a "state-of-the-art" dumpster fire of a head unit. Yes, the stock system Toyota lovingly installed in these cars is... let’s call it “adequate” if your standards are comfortably low. For anyone looking for a sound quality setup with a good source, it’s a certified no-go.

The audio performance? FAIR at best. And honestly, given that these units are churned out locally, you can't be surprised. Indus is still giving us pathetic headunits even up the line in the Altis Grande X blah blah blah.

The AVH-2550NEX is a great headunit featuring a 6.8" display, Amazon Alexa, Apple Carplay, Android Auto, SirusXM, Weblink, Spotify, Pandora, Dual camera inputs, selectable guidelines etc. More importantly, it features a 13 band EQ, built in DSP with auto/manual TA, HPF/BP/LPF Crossover Network, Full active Network mode, 24 Bit DA Converter and Auto EQ. All of this comes at a reasonable $550-$600 price tag depending on where you source the headunit from but it's a worthwhile investment if you are not a fan of those larger panels and want to maintain the OE look of the dash.

Know this, if you are building a setup and want it to sound great but are on a budget, you can get products like the Pioneer 215bt, 205bt, 275bt, 285bt etc for less than 30k. These are pioneers entry level headunits with 4/6 channel pre-outs, time alignment, crossover settings, slope settings etc. Basically, they have all the features to deliver the best audio quality in a budget

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Wiring Dilemma & The BIG3/4/5 Electrical System Upgrade

Ok so you might be asking, what the hell is this? Why would I need this? Whose going to do it for me? What's the pro's and cons?

The answer is simple. The Pro's are many, the cons, not so much apart from the fact that you would have to spend a little money. It's a great DIY and is not just limited to cars that have upgraded audio setups and aftermarket accessories.

Many factory wiring setups are just "good enough" to handle stock loads. The more accessories you turn on, you'll notice the rpm dropping, the car shuddering, the lights dimming (very noticeable with halogen bulbs) and sometimes even the horn sounding a bit off. The reason behind this is while your car's battery and alternator are giving out the juice to power everything, the thin flimsy stock wiring is the let down. A wires resistance is inversely proportional to the cross section size of the wire. The thinner the wire, the higher the resistance which means power flow won't be as easy resulting in voltage drop. The Big 3 Upgrade is like giving your car’s electrical system a better, wider highway to deliver power where it’s needed. It replaces three key wires with thicker, high-quality wires that can handle more current with less resistance.

By improving power flow and grounding, it stabilizes voltage across the system, even when your alternator is under heavy load. More Stable Electrical System. No voltage drops mean everything works better. Your headlights and cabin lights will stay bright, even with the AC running. No more engine shuddering too (This only applies to the issue which was caused by voltage drop, not if your engine has an internal issue). This also results in a more quick and stable starting process of your vehicle

Big 3 Upgrade

The Big 3 Upgrade focuses on upgrading three critical electrical connections in your vehicle. This is the most common and widely recommended starting point for improving your electrical system.

Upgraded Wires:

Alternator to Battery Positive

Battery Negative to Chassis Ground

Chassis Ground to Engine Ground

Big 4/5 Upgrade

The Big 4/5 Upgrade builds on the Big 3 by adding 2 extra grounding connection to further enhance the electrical system.

Battery Negative to Engine Block

Alternator to Chassis Ground

While in most applications, the Big3 will get the job done, but since I had some extra wiring left around, I decided to do the BIG 4/5 upgrade regardless. There's no harm in it and it was a great DIY. It's always a good idea to use 99.99% OFC wiring (4 Awg or larger) to do your Big3/4/5 upgrade.

Wire's Used For Big3/4/5 Upgrade

1) Ground Zero 35mm^2 (2 AWG) Competition OFC Wire

2) Stinger Pro 25mm^2 (4 AWG) Competition OFC Wire

3) Alextech Braided Sleeving + Heavy Duty Thimbles + Color Coded Heat shrinks

Battery Upgrade & Fusing the Power Wires

Here's a picture of my Upgraded BATTERY ( 70 AH ) with the Fused Distribution block for the BIG3/4/5 Positive Wire and the Power Wire for the Amplifiers which goes to the back of the car. You'll also see the 2 ground wires coming from the engine block (WIRE 4) and the chassis (WIRE 2).

Fusing the alternator-to-battery positive wire is critical for safety (preventing a fire hazard and protecting your electrical system). Yes you can just skip it and it'll be fine but it's a safety precaution that helps and should be considered. The value of the fuse should be slightly higher than the alternator output to not blow during normal operation but it should not exceed the wires gauge e.g. For a 0 Awg wire, the max fuse size is 300A, for a 4 Awg wire, the max fuse size is 150A and for a 8 Awg wire, the max fuse size is 80A etc.

This same concept applies to the main power wire running to the back to your Amplifiers too.

You can ofcourse use a inline fuse holder (ANL, Midi ANL or type type) for this application. Most wiring kits will have this included but they are also available seperate. I prefer the Midi ANL type for wire sizes ranging from 8-6-4 AWG while the ANL fuse types for 2-0 AWG wires.

For my application, I opted for a 3 In / 3 Out Fused Distribution Block with 1-2-4-8 AWG inputs/outputs. Not only did this make the install more neat and tidy, it's also super easy to pop the plastic cap off, swap fuses, put the cap back on and start enjoying your drive/music.

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System Wiring For Amplifiers + Speakers + Sub

Lets take a look at the wiring that will be used to power up the whole setup that's going into the car. First up, the main power/ground wire for the amplifiers

Stinger Pro 4 Awg (25mm²) Tinned OFC Wire

Oxygen-Free Copper (OFC):

Made from 100% oxygen-free copper ensuring superior conductivity, minimizing power loss and optimizing audio performance.

Tinned Conductors:

The tinned construction provides enhanced corrosion resistance, making it ideal for automotive environments that are exposed to moisture and varying temperatures.

High Strand Count:

With 1,666 strands, the wire offers remarkable flexibility, allowing for smooth installation even around tight corners and complex routing paths.

Durable Insulation:

The wire is wrapped in a matte finish hyper-twist PVC jacket, which is resistant to heat, abrasion, chemicals, and oil

Power Rating:

Capable of handling systems up to 1,500 watts or 150 amps

https://stingerelectronics-eu.com/product/4ga-ultra-flexible-ofc-pro-series-power-wire-matte-black-100-ft-length/

We've also established that the car will be running a passive 3 way setup with the crossovers mounted in the trunk (This is done so as to make it easier for a DSP install in the future). Rather than mounting the crossovers in the front / under the passenger seat or in the doors, these were mounted in the trunk with 3 runs of speaker wires from each Mid bass, Mid range and Tweeter.

Kicker 46QW1220 Tinned 12 Awg OFC Wire

The wire of choice for the Midbass and Subwoofer is the 12 Awg Kicker Q series tinned OFC wire. With 294 strands, the cable offers increased flexibility, making it easier to route through tight spaces and around corners during installation. The twisted pair design helps reject system and engine noise, ensuring a cleaner audio signal. The PVC insulation features two distinct shapes for positive and negative connections, simplifying polarity identification during installation. A total of 40 feet of cable was used in the install (2 x 20ft rolls)

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-AyYAPIWQBmv/p_2066QW1220/Kicker-46QW1220.html

Stinger HPM (6000 Series) Tinned 16 Awg OFC Wire

This leaves us with the wiring for the Mid range and Tweeter. This is covered by the Stinger HPM 6000 series tinned PC-OFC (Pure Crystal Oxygen Free Copper) wire. The wire comes with 102 strands of tinned copper with twisted pair construction for superior noise rejection. The hyper twist construction equals increased flexibility and current transfer

https://stingerelectronics-eu.com/product/16ga-ultra-flexible-ofc-pro-series-speaker-wire-matte-blue-250-ft-length/

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Front Stage Upgrade: 3-Way Components

After addressing the fundamentals—soundproofing, proper deadening, and ensuring no power delivery issues due to substandard factory wiring—it's time to focus on the core audio equipment.

With the source head unit already sorted, the next step is the front stage. Instead of the traditional 2-way component setup, I decided to for a budget friendly 3-way system. Specifically, I chose the Recoil RD365 which is priced comfortably under the Rs.100k budget

For audio enthusiasts on a budget looking to explore the benefits of a 3-way setup, the RD365 is an excellent choice because it even outperformed the likes of Massive Audio FC6.3 which is another great 3 way for under 100k

The Recoil RD365

Midbass Driver (6.5-inch Woofer)

Cone Material: Fiberglass composite
Surround: Butyl rubber

Specifications:

Resonant Frequency (Fs): 44 Hz
Equivalent Volume (Vas): 16 liters
Mechanical Q Factor (Qms): 3.62
Electrical Q Factor (Qes): 0.46
Total Q Factor (Qts): 0.41
Moving Mass (Mms): 19 grams
BL Product (BL): 5.5 Tm
DC Resistance (Re): 2.5 ohms
Sensitivity (SPL): 86.8 dB (1W/1m)

Midrange Driver (3.5-inch Speaker)

Cone Material: Fiberglass composite
Surround: Butyl rubber
Motor Assembly: Neodymium

Specifications:

Resonant Frequency (Fs): 99 Hz
Equivalent Volume (Vas): 0.9 liters
Mechanical Q Factor (Qms): 5.76
Electrical Q Factor (Qes): 0.81
Total Q Factor (Qts): 0.70
Moving Mass (Mms): 3.7 grams
BL Product (BL): 3.2 Tm
DC Resistance (Re): 3.5 ohms
Sensitivity (SPL): 82.3 dB (1W/1m)

Tweeter (1-inch Soft Dome)

Type: Silk dome for smooth and natural high-frequency reproduction.

Specifications:

Impedance: 3 ohms
Sensitivity (SPL): ~89 dB (1W/1m)
Frequency Response: 2 kHz – 20 kHz
Power Handling: 25W RMS, 50W Peak

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Front Stage Amplification: Memphis 16-MCA300

Now that we have the 3 way in place, the next big question is................. Whats going to power these up? The RD365 have a combined power rating of 135WRms each side (270RMS Total). It's a good idea to have an amp that makes that kinda power. Introducing one of the best amplifiers from the US based company Memphis, the 16 MCA-300. A 2 - Channel Class A/B Amplifier with unbelievable clean power, very good circuitry, and overload protection. Seriously under-rated product by Memphis. Will be using it in 2-channel mode to power up the Recoil RD365 (Passive). These amps can be run fully active too due to the selectable crossover frequencies and slope select. This is exactly how these amps (16-MCA300 and 16-MCA5004) were used to power a set of Morel Elate 3-way components previously. Unfortunately, I sold the 5004 but I'm glad I held onto the 300

150wrms x 2 @ 4 Ohms
250wrms x 2 @ 2 Ohms
500wrms x 1 @ 4 Ohms BTL
Compact Aluminum Chassis with Custom Black Pearl Finish
Gold Plated RCA Connectors
RCA Outputs: 1 Pair
Full MOSFET Design
Fully Variable Crossover: HP/LP (40 Hz - 6 kHz)
4-Way Protection Circuitry
Platinum Finish Wire Connections
Optional Wired Remote Gain Control
Adjustable Input Sensitivity: 250mV - 5V
RCA Bypass Output
User Selectable 12dB or 18dB Per Octave Crossover Slope
Built-In Fully Variable High/Low Pass Crossovers

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Rear Stage: JL Audio 12W6V2-D4

Introducing my JL Audio 12W6V2-D4 Subwoofer to fil out the rear stage for an incredible low end. While the W7 series will always be considered probably one of the best subs to ever grace the world of car audio, the W6 flagship series is possibly as good in terms of SQ/SQL and comes at a lower price.

The W6 delivers incredible sound quality, power handling, and bass response, but at a more accessible price, offering better bang for the buck compared to the W7. This makes them better value. The W6V2 series are often praised for their tight, controlled bass and accurate sound reproduction, even at high output levels without muddying the rest of the sound spectrum. While the W6 series subs require 600WRms compared to the 1000WRms for the W7, JL's recommended optimum rms value is 400-500 for the W6 vs 750 for the W7 making the W6 series more suitable for high-power applications but still more forgiving if paired with less powerful amplifiers. Designed, Engineered and Made in the USA at JL's factory.

Some of the tech used on the W6 subs

DMA (Dynamic Motor Analysis) Technology:

JL patented DMA technology optimizes the motor system of the subwoofer to improve its linearity, efficiency, and sound quality. DMA ensures that the subwoofer's motor performs consistently even when the subwoofer is moving at higher excursion levels. This leads to less distortion and better control over the cone's movement

Overhung Voice Coil:

The W6v2 series utilizes an overhung voice coil design. This refers to the way the voice coil is suspended in the magnetic gap, providing more linear motion. This design reduces the risk of distortion by preventing the voice coil from moving too far out of alignment with the magnetic field.

Floating Cone Suspension:

The 12W6v2 utilizes JL Audio's Floating Cone Suspension design, which allows for more precise cone movement and helps reduce the mechanical stress on the suspension system. This suspension design uses a unique triple-roll surround that enhances the subwoofer's ability to move freely with minimal distortion, resulting in more accurate bass and improved cone excursion

Vented Cone Architecture:

The 12W6v2 features a vented cone design, which helps to ventilate the voice coil and improve heat dissipation. JL Audio’s patented venting system ensures that the voice coil remains cool even under high power conditions. This reduces thermal compression, which can affect the performance of a subwoofer when the voice coil gets too hot.

Cast Alloy Basket:

The 12W6v2 uses a cast aluminum basket, which is both rigid and lightweight. This helps the subwoofer maintain structural integrity under high power and excursion levels. The cast basket also minimizes resonances and unwanted structural vibrations

Cone Material and Construction:

The 12W6v2 uses a high-strength treated polypropylene cone, which offers superior rigidity and low distortion at high excursion levels. The cone is designed to be lightweight while still being durable enough to handle high-power levels.

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Sub Amplification: Mosconi AS100.2

To power the JL-12W6V2D4, I had just the right amp in my closet. My trusted small 2 channel Mosconi amp. A brand known to make top class amplifiers which are used worldwide in competition car's. The AS may be small in size but it definitely does not compromise on quality and performance. The AS series amplifiers (AS100.4, 4 channel sibling of the AS100.2) was honored with the EISA Best Product award for European In-Car Amplifier in 2010-2011. The AS series, including the AS100.2, have also achieved top placements and world records in competitions such as EMMA, IASCA, and dB-CUP.

The AS100.2 comes with additional slots for the optional G_HOC, G_FSA, G_HP/LP.

This allows users to customize and enhance the amplifier’s functionality based on their audio system needs. Here’s what each module does:

G_HOC (High Output Converter) – This module helps integrate the amplifier with OEM (factory) head units by improving signal conversion and matching levels between different sources.

G_FSA (Front Stage Adjuster) – This module fine-tunes the front-stage audio imaging, helping to optimize speaker positioning and stereo imaging, especially useful in car audio competitions or high-end setups.

G_HP/LP (High Pass/Low Pass Filter) – This module allows users to add an external adjustable crossover to the amplifier, giving precise control over frequency response for better integration with subwoofers or component speakers.

And the ever so important Data Sheet. If reading and understanding numbers is your thing, take your time with this

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Speaker Install Accessories & Mounting :

Lets look at some of the install accessories bought to ensure possibly the best music listening environment inside the cabin.

Using The Right Speaker Adaptors & Mounting Equipment

Strictly speaking of Toyota's (Lexus/Daihatsu models included) I've seen so many shops use the same type of Universal speaker adaptors that can easily be bought for 500-1000 rupees a pair for the doors. Here's a reference pic below

The only good thing about these adaptors is that they are made of plastic and not mdf/chipboard which tend to absorb moisture and start disintegrating over time. A little insight on the chipboard/mdf adaptors => I've seen people spray paint these as well but painting wooden adaptors WILL NOT make them water resistant. Coming back to these universal adaptors, that's pretty much where the good things end for these

Here's a picture of the correct Toyota Speaker Adaptor. What you'll notice is that while this too has the same shape, it's got a outer lip around the edges where the adaptor mounts onto the door itself (Yellow Indicator Marks). This is very similar to the standard Toyota speaker shape as can be seen below too.

Why is it important to use the correct high quality adaptors?

Answers pretty simple. The higher quality Toyota specific speaker adaptors are made of dense high quality plastic. These adaptors make for a rigid mounting surface which in return reduce vibrations and resonance that can color the sound. It also helps in dampening vibrations between the speaker and the car door panel, improving sound quality and reducing panel buzz. They also tend to be more resistant to wear, cracking, and warping over time

Another major advantage is best explained through this picture. This is a Toyota vehicle using the universal adaptor for a 6.5" aftermarket coaxial speaker.

What you see here is the issue with the adaptor sealing. The two pics show side by side where the factory speaker out lip edge was sitting when mounted to the door. This has been marked yellow in the second picture. It means the universal adaptors are smaller and don't cover the same surface area the factory speaker did. That means there is less contact between the mounting surface of the adaptor and the door panel. This leads to unwanted resonance created by the speakers motor when playing and you now have a pathetic install. But there's more to be wary about

I've never seen the factory speaker hole being completely covered by these universal adaptors. No matter how much you move the adaptor around and screw it into place, you will always have 1 of the 3 sides of the adaptor not covering the factory speaker hole properly. If you look at the speaker adaptor and not find any gap in the upper two sections, don't worry, look at the lower part under the adaptor. Most of these shops will leave that gap because why would a customer get down and look for a gap innit? Easy way is to run your finger on the inner flat surface of the adaptor from behind once it's mounted (before the speaker goes in) and you'll feel that most of the mounting area, which is supposed to be sitting flush against the door, is in the air. You'll also feel the uneven placement and this is a great time to play PEEK A BOO with you finger to find that gap. Covering this gap with some sound deadening material isn't the right way so save yourself the hassle and simply just order these adaptors from Daraz/Aliexpress for 1000-1500.

More importantly, because these universal adaptors don't fit exactly over the factory speaker holes (which come riveted), these installers will tend to grab some self tapping screws and washers and make new holes (Can be seen done in the picture above). Apart from the fact that this is a shitty way of installing these adaptors, these screws tend to vibrate and loosen over time. Good luck with tightening them back in too after they either become loose or you remove them. You now have a infinity hole and a screw that will refuse to tighten back up.

The correct way to mount the speaker adaptor is to drill out the old rivets (If the shop doesn't have a drill and start using a flat blade screwdriver and hammer to break the rivet heads, leave and find another shop).

Once done, you can either rivet the new adaptor into place as shown below on my adaptors (Notice the correct adaptors being used, this is an older picture with my JBL C608GTi MKii midbass drivers). This does mean that you will have to drill the rivets out again in the future but I don't plan on changing these adaptors anytime soon and riveting them back in means I don't have to worry about them getting loose over time

Second option is to use Rivet Nuts (You can find out what these are later during the install phase but here's a quick overview video by Dean). This allows the adaptor to be completely serviceable and you can screw and unscrew the adaptor as many times as you want

Or finally, use standard bolts and nuts from the back while the driver has not yet been installed. Using a bit of blue thread-lock is always a good idea to ensure the bolts/nuts don't get loose overtime. Here's a video showing how to do that at the 4 minute mark.

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Speaker Install Isolation & Decoupling: NVX XBAF65 & 3M Fast Rings

So how does one increase the performance and longevity of your speaker drivers?

1) Performance: This of-course refers to on how to increases speaker output, improve the projection of the audio into the car cabin and reduce unwanted rear reflections

2) Longevity: How to help protect the speakers from water seepage inside the doors and shield it from moisture, dirt and dust

The answer to these can be answered very easily using 2 types of products.

A) Silicone Rubber Speaker Baffles

(Plastic ones exist too but will not be discussed as they are not as versatile as the silicone and foam products and can't be cut to specific depths OR are a hassle to do so)

B) Foam Fast Rings

Using a speaker plastic adaptor as demonstrated in the post above is to ensure that the aftermarket speaker's motor magnet does not interfere with your window glass rolling up and down. It's usually also there to ensure the face of the speaker is as close to the plastic ring on the door card so music is pushed out into the cabin. On the factory speakers (As shown below), one can see the foam ring usually indicating the markings of the plastic ring biting into it and basically creating a seal with the speaker so music isn't lost within the door itself.

Here's a picture of a aftermarket speaker (Probably the closest depth size to the factory speakers). You will notice that I've had to slightly raise the factory speaker so the mounting brackets are at the same level. This also shows that the aftermarket speaker does need some kind of foam gasket like the factory one so the plastic ring on the door card can bite into it.

If this isn't done, here's a picture of what does happen. The green arrows indicate the sound waves directed into the cabin. The yellow arrows are the sound waves that get lost within the door itself due to reflections. And finally, the red back waves which can reflect/rebound from the outer door skin and interfere with the front sound wave output.

The same speaker driver will have very different results when you use a product like the Stinger Fastrings (3 Pieces) Or the NVX XBAF65. Ring 1 ensures a solid flush install between the speaker driver and the door card preventing any leakage and ensuring all music is directed into the cabin. Ring 2 (not needed if you are using a silicone speaker baffle) ensures that not only does the back side of the speaker driver remain safe from water damage (which can cause rust etc on the magnet, terminals etc) but also to direct all that back wave energy onto Ring 3 which then absorbs it and ensures those backs waves do not cancel out the front sound waves. This results in a speaker that is safe from the elements and music that is fully directed into the cabin with no phase cancellation, reflections and loss of music.

A 2 Piece Fastring product like the 3M one shown below will suffice too, however, the absence of the secondary ring may result in some back waves still reflecting off the outer door skin.

On a product like the stinger fastrings, you can easily cut the foam according to your need with a plain blade knife so there is no interfarence and the foam does not also roll onto itself say when the door card is put back on. On the Silicon speaker baffle, the rubber can be folded or cut for this same reason.

Furthermore, in order to isolate the speaker and the adaptor from the metal inner door panel to reduce vibrations and metal buzz, it's always a good idea not only to have the metal sheet treated with CLD sheets (discussed previously) but also use a thin layer of foam gasket. This will also help closing any air gaps as shown in the picture below. This needs to be done between the speaker and the adaptor and similarly between the adaptor and the metal sheet

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A-Pillar Custom Fabrication

To mount the Mid-range and Tweeter, I had to look into fabricating the front A-pillars. The factory tweeter pods on these cars are placed in a okay'ish location, the driver side tweeter being pretty much blocked off by the steering wheel and instrument cluster hump. So getting that tweeter and midrange higher up was always going to have a much cleaner sound stage. There are tons of threads, posts, videos etc on why this is essential in a great sounding setup.

The next most important thing here was the direction placement of the drivers. Again, this refers to a On-Axis or Off-Axis setup. Simply put, an On-axis setup will include the drivers pointed at the Driver's headrest. On a Off-axis setup, the drivers could be pointing straight at each other or at the opposite head-rests. This placement really depends on the sound characteristics of your drivers so it's always a good idea to run the setup and see what placement suits your listening.

In this case, an off-axis placement was chosen where the tweeters are pointing at the opposite headrests. The RD365 being a more SQL type of component set sounded that bit more subtle in this configuration. The tweeters on this set sound best off-axis than on axis. I spent a little time experimenting with these along with time alignment to see what was the best placement.

Using some hot glue or painters tape is always handy when doing this if you don't have a laser. This is how the A-Pillars looked like after the initial fabrication was done

After confirming the fitment, the A-pillars got wrapped up in some black rexine to match the contrasting interior. I've never liked the beige A-pillars on these car's and the black makes them blend in so much better

Next up, it's making the A-pillars more robust and getting the wiring done

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Wiring The Midrange & Tweeter On Custom A-Pillars

In order to make the A-pillar's as sturdy as possible and to eliminate any resonance created from the plastic itself, the insides of the panel were treated with CLD pieces.

Once the sound treatment was done, I switched to getting the wiring sorted. First up, the tweeter comes with some nice 18 Awg OFC wire. For the Midrange, because the space between the terminals and the opening of the A pillar was very narrow, rather than using spade terminals, we soldered the ends of the Stinger HPM 16 AWG wire onto the terminals itself. This was then covered with some heat-shrink resulting in a solid connection.

Since the aim is to make this whole setup completely serviceable and if needed, can be removed from this car and onto a different corolla, we are using something known as the XT30 connectors on the connections for the Mid range and tweeter. This allows me to simply unplug the A pillar from the main wiring harness and take it out without any wires being cut or the drivers having to be unmounted from the A pillar.

The picture above shows the tweeter wire and the stinger wire from the mid-range being soldered onto two XT30 connectors. These are then individually covered with heat shrink and the full connection is further covered with some extra heat shrink.

You will also notice that the connectors were soldered in opposite orientation. This was done so to avoid the mistake of accidentally plugging the said drivers into the wrong connectors. Labelling is one way to indicate which wire from the amp/crossover is for the Mid-range and which is for the tweeter but such labels can tear off or become faded. Soldering the connectors opposite to each other ensures this mistake is not made. YOU DO NOT want to plug the tweeter and mid-range incorrectly. That's your ticket to kissing them good bye

Since I am running 3 wires ( 1 x Kicker 12 Awg for the Midbass + 2 x Stinger 16 Awg for the M.Range and Tweeter ) from the crossover in the back all the way to the front on each side, I had the wire from front to back all covered in Alextech Braided Sleeving up until the kick panels in the front. From here, the wire's are split with the 2 Stinger wires going up the dash and the Kicker wire going into the doors. The split also meant that new sleeving ( White for the stinger wires and black for the kicker wire ) had to be joint onto the original sleeving coming from the back. With the help of some tessa tape and heat shrinks, I managed to make the split look perfect, hidden away conveniently behind the kick panels and really making the wiring so much better to work with and look at too (Pics of that will be posted later)

Here's the part that comes out of the dash to clip into the Mid-range and Tweeter

Once these connectors are clipped into their respective plugs, they have been covered in Tessa tape to ensure they do not rattle to create any annoying sounds (You'll see some more CLD sheets being used here too)

This is what the XT30/XT60/XT90 connectors look like. And the Tessa Cloth Tape used in the build

Here's a final look at the A-Pillars mounted onto the car