Thermostat valve and auto fan

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usman505 (usman505) 2012-11-01 13:24:58 +0500 #21

Zulfiqar bro is right ithnk

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2012-11-01 14:25:26 +0500 #22

Thats what the manual says and thats what Ive tested too. A freindly advice is to solder a wire directly to the switch and make spade connector joint in the "WIRE" - the original setup is extremely bad unless you have the original sliding wiring clip and the wiring is secured to not vibrate.

That connector when old gets disconnected by engine vibration.

usman505 (usman505) 2012-11-01 15:39:57 +0500 #23

the clip is original i thnk:S and it is solid at its place
i think its famously known as horn nipple at spare parts shop if m not wrong

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2012-11-01 16:15:45 +0500 #24

haaran kilip is the right urdu version. But the charade does not use a standard clip, it uses a slip on fit connector which has a slot on its side, thats where it latches and locks.

usman505 (usman505) 2012-11-01 16:32:35 +0500 #25

but here in Rawalpindi and Islamabad it is known as haaran or horn nipple . but i will also chk this in morning Inshaallah bro i have some grinding type of noise from gear in morning only and when i press the clutch sound vanishes i thnk its time to replace gear oil? sound comes only in morning when car is cold

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2012-11-01 17:55:17 +0500 #26

that sound is the transmission countershaft lash, change out the gear lube if its really old , it should not be so noisy if the level is full as the gears are usually dipped in the oil.

btw - Always start the car with the clutch pressed, it makes it easier for the self starter as it does not have to overcome the thick gear oil resistance. It is also mandated for safety and hence cars come with switches on the clutch to lock out the starter.

UpGrade (UpGrade) 2012-11-02 04:39:55 +0500 #27

@ xulfiqar*
will it be good idea to use automatic fan with out thermostate valve ??? what are the disadvantages? *

BigNate (BigNate) 2012-11-02 06:56:02 +0500 #28

@Xulfiquar :- buddy thanks for correcting . Welcome:)

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2012-11-02 11:08:03 +0500 #29

The thermostat valve is installed by the manufacturer to maintain a "minimum" temperature of 82C (if the valve reacts at 82) - its best for the engine and ensures long service life, This valve also makes the engine reach that temperature quicker. So why remove it?

usman505 (usman505) 2012-11-02 12:13:16 +0500 #30

@xulfiqar yes i read ur comment on some thread about to start the car with pressed clutch and frm that day i always start the car with clutch pressed

Horse_rider (Horse_rider) 2012-11-27 07:33:48 +0500 #31

I think the engine should run on optimum temperature all the time whether it is slow moving or on motorway. mine santro 03 temp needle become on 30% when moving on motorway at around 100KM/h or above in winters. what could be wrong.

nfssaad (Saad Ahmed Khan) 2012-11-27 12:23:58 +0500 #32

since my car was running cold all the time... i got a thermostat switch.. kabli...

tested it at home... it turned on with water just about to boil :S

khair fitted it...

now the temperature needle goes to half... fan turns on for less than a minute and then turns off... and maitains the needle at half... running continuously at half is not good... what could be the problem

car is a charade as well..
no thermostat valve

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2012-11-27 12:30:22 +0500 #33

why do you think that your engine running at half gauge is not good? - when testing the switch your water medium will boil as it is not under pressure like in the engine - which raises the boil point.

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2012-11-27 12:31:51 +0500 #34

I recall that your santro should have two hash marks on the needle sweep for the normal position, and it should stay there, if its cooling down on the highway then your thermostat valve is slow to close back, its distorted or plain worn out and allowing a colder regulation.

nfssaad (Saad Ahmed Khan) 2012-11-27 13:20:52 +0500 #35

i have a cuore as well .. with valve and switch... temp goes to half fan turns on... temp drops to 25% and stays there..

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2012-11-27 13:33:33 +0500 #36

I dont believe your cuore will regulate it at 25% sweep, it usually stays at about 40% - just a little less than half. And doesnt move at all. The fan will cycle on and off while the gauge remains still.

usman505 (usman505) 2012-11-27 14:11:06 +0500 #37

when the car is moving the needle goes a bit more than half (u can 55% ) and fan turns on.
but when the car is idleing the fan turns on exactly when needle is on half and if remain at idle than 2nd time it turns on 45%.. little below than half?
is that ok or its just my WAYHAM ...?

AsadIshaque (AsadIshaque) 2012-11-27 17:24:07 +0500 #38

Salam,

 Posting my car problem here instead of making a new thread since same issue is being discussed. I believe Xulfiqar can solve my problem.

 Car in question is my Suzuki FX on its original engine. It always used to have a working auto fan setup but few months back the Radiator switch gave up the ghost and so the fan was wired directly as a band aid fix. The car has had the auto radiator switch replaced, I think 3 or 4 times in the past.

Now when I found a new radiator switch and put it on, I noticed that instead of the fan starting at about quarter of the gauge sweep (against half in the newer EFI cars), now the fan kicked in above half reading. Since I was not satisfied with this state of affairs, I changed three or four switches.....Japanese, Chinese, Korean and finally a 'kabli' one but all switches gave about the same result.

I guessed that maybe the available switches were now designed for EFI cars (whose gauges show temp in the half range when warmed up) so gave up after failing to find a suitable switch. Since then the fan has been direct on the poor engine.

I am ready to bench test the small collection of radiator switches.....I think if I make a simple testing setup maybe in the kitchen I can come up with some data?

Also, most important.....all this while I did not think about the thermostat valve.......this has not been changed/inspected/cleaned in a long long time. Could that be the culprit???

Thoughts and pointer please??

TIA

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2012-11-27 17:36:42 +0500 #39

the thermofan switch will operate at 98C and cut out at about 90C normally in your application. Which will be near half sweep on the gauge. Your old switch must be really odd ball to make the fan work at low temperature. A new switch should not let the temperature shoot above half though, a genuine Pak suzuki part will work for you.

Also make sure the thermostat is in place and that you have no rust or sludge packing the cooling system, The metal coolant pipe that feeds the coolant pump should also be in good condition. It usually gets corroded and reduces in diameter which can cause the engine to behave as if the thermostat is stuck closed. Similarly ensure that your radiator cap is in good serviceable condition and the overflow tank pipe and cover are not broken or leaking.

I would strongly suggest to get rid of the original equipment cooling fan suzuki installed in this car, it is a joke at best. Install a good branded puller type fan with correct wiring and shrouding to get maximum performance.

AsadIshaque (AsadIshaque) 2012-11-27 17:56:38 +0500 #40

Thanks for the response.

 We've had the car since new and I distinctly remember that the fan used to operate once the needle was more than 25% up. That is why I said its unlike the newer EFI cars. All the previous switches we put in the car's life time (before trouble began) had made this possible.

 I am guessing that the sludge/rust/restricted waterway theory holds true in my case. So the next job to do is a tear down of the water passages, clean and reassemble with new thermostat valve etc.

 I am not too keen on going for the 'puller type' fan setup, not knowing detail on its setup.