Third Generation Toyota Vitz Guide

[anon35615524]

Which manual is this? Do you have a softcopy or something?

This is the manual for 3rd generation, 1st face-lift JDM Toyota Vitz (in Japanese language).
For reference, please visit: https://toyota.jp/pages/contents/vitz/003_p_017/pdf/spec/vitz_201605.pdf

Regarding reference / relevant manual in English, and for Yaris, please visit following links, and download owners / users manuals and maintenance schedules accordingly:

https://www.toyota.com/owners/?garagePrefVehicle=0&garageModelName=Yaris&garageYearValue=2015&addToVehicleList=false&remRecentVehicle=false&csrfToken=15557811405888878700707114737899

OR

https://www.toyota.ca/toyota/en/my-toyota/owners-manuals

and http://s3.amazonaws.com/toyota.site.p01/toyota/manuals/OM52D51U/OM52D51U.pdf (owners / users manual) & http://s3.amazonaws.com/toyota.site.p01/toyota/manuals/OMS1015U/OMS1015U.pdf (maintenance schedules)

[imhaseeb_khan200]

Jazakallah. Many thanks.

[imhaseeb_khan200]

Anyone knows original OEM brake pad price? front and rear both? I asked one of the shop he told me to use copy brake pads although he has everything original but he doesn't have original OEM brake pads. According to him original one is costly and very few people buy it. I just want to confirm the price if anyone ever buys it? also is it good option to use copy brake pads which is going to cost me Rs 1800 only for front brake pads.
@basitali87 @aunabbas_90 any idea?

[anon35615524]

Anyone knows original OEM brake pad price? front and rear both?

Bro, front will cost somewhere between 6-9K PKR, and rear may cost around 3-5K PKR (these are my very very rough guesses, based on Toyota Passo).

original one is costly and very few people buy it

Its non-sense! No wise man would say / do such thing. He is just saying this because he wants to sold his copy brake-pads, as he is not having genuine, OEM & original ones.

he told me to use copy brake pads

is it good option to use copy brake pads which is going to cost me Rs 1800 only for front brake pads.

Avoid them by all means! Do not compromise over safety of your ride, you yourself, and others!

I hope, it helps. Thank you.

[anon35615524]

Guys, I have a question: Two months ago i changed my vitz gear oil with Original Toyota CVTF's But on that I didn't know there were variants like TC or FE and I also don't know which one I used but It was original and costed me Rs 5500. Now after reading above comments Borther @basitali87 mentioned one should use 4.8 liter But I used 4 liter. Now what shall I do? Change the whole oil again as I didn't know about TC or FE now I have come to know that FE is required. Your humble advice needed

@imhaseeb_khan200 Bro is everything clear now regarding CVTF?

[anon35615524]

Brother what about steering fluid? Can you guide me how to check the steering fliud?plz with pics if possible.

As far as I know, 3rd generation Vitz does not require any steering fluid.

[anon35615524]

Guys there is a lot of discussion going on different threads, Synthetic and semi synthetic. What does the manual say in this regard ?? I haven't seen synthetic n semi anywhere ??

Following is my opinion:

Bro as far as I can understand, owners / users manual for Vitz does not contain any specific mentioning of 100% Fully Synthetic or Synthetic, Semi-Synthetic or Mineral, etc. and Toyota here can not restrict to any of these.

We all know; 100% Fully Synthetic or Synthetic is always better than Semi-Synthetic, is always better than Mineral. Reason: Their composition, uniform properties, molecular formulas and formation, additives, cleaning / detergent properties, etc. (Fully synthetic deteriorates after comparatively long time, mineral based oils deteriorate quite early when compared to fully synthetics). Toyota here can only guide to follow a specific grade; like 5w-30, meeting latest API SN / SN Plus, and / or ILSAC GF-5 rating.

Definitely, you can find 5w-30 meeting latest API SN / SN Plus, and / or ILSAC GF-5 rating, in all 100% Fully Synthetic or Synthetic, Semi-Synthetic or Mineral.

Let me give example of each, and going no further than Totachi:

Ultima EcoDrive L 5W-30 and Ultima Ecodrive F 5W-30 are 100% Fully Synthetic (Source: https://totachi.com/product/ultima-ecodrive-l-5w-30/ and https://totachi.com/product/ultima-ecodrive-f-5w-30/ )

Eco Gasoline 5W-30 is Semi-Synthetic (Source: https://totachi.com/product/eco-gasoline-5w-30/ )

Fine Gasoline 5W-30 is pure mineral based (Source: https://totachi.com/product/fine-gasoline-5w-30/ is based on a bit old API / ILSAC rating but https://www.penriteoil.com.au/applications/car-4wd/engine-oils/premium-mineral-5w-30#/ and https://www.penriteoil.com.au/applications/car-4wd/engine-oils/vantage-premium-mineral-5w-30#/ are mineral based, meeting latest API / ILSAC criteria)

Mineral will require frequent and early change intervals, but then of course, its price will be the cheapest in all the 3 categories. Semi-synthetic will be a bit expensive and require comparatively long change intervals. 100% Fully Synthetic / Synthetic will be the expensive in all these 03, and will have the longest drain intervals when compared to these other 02 categories.

Cost to benefit ratio may be the same, however, its also the additives which matter the most!
(The best of the best are added in fully synthetics)

IMHO, one should always prefer and go for 100% Fully Synthetic / Synthetic oils, in the best health and interest of vehicles.

I hope, it all helps. Thank you.

(If further details are required regrading comparison of these 03 and which would be best suited, one can Google)

[aunabbas_90]

Allrighttt Thanks Basit bhai

[imhaseeb_khan200]

All clear Ahumdolillah.

Just waiting to hear your experience about CVTF

[ahmedstudio]

Get the CVT transmission and fluid checked.

[aunabbas_90]

Guys does our vitz have immobilizer?

[aunabbas_90]

Petrol Tank Lid of vitz 2015 says
E10, ETBE 22
I would like to share some findings as to what type of Gasoline is recommended for JDMs n specially Vitz 2015 n above.
This E10 ETBE 22 basically refers to Ethanol 10%
Ethyl Tertiary Butyl Ether 22%
This can either be Ethyl or Methyl. Ppl familiar with chemistry will get this easily.
This E10 ETBE/MTBE are basically Oxygenates.
One of the additives which are used to add up the octane rating of the gasoline.
There r other ways to increase Octane ratings of the fuel. But this E10 ETBE/MTBE 22 are most environment friendly with least amount of pollutants.
As far as RON 95 is concerned, trust me i dint read it myself in the Manual.
But this E10 ETBE22 refers to the use of HiOctane which is pretty obvious. As it is an agent used to add octane rating of the Gasoline. i.e. HiOctane blending.
..
..
HiOctane can never be harmful to the IC Engines, it always adds up value to the combustion phenomenon. There is a guy who says " Keep using HiOctane n be ready for pre mature Engine breakdown" haha this is quite a big joke. Mechanical / Automobile Engineering related ppl will agree with me.
..

[aunabbas_90]

Let me tell all respected members, that Knocking basically refers to autoignition of AF mixture in the CC. now what petrochemical ppl or petrochemistry tells us that in order to supress this premature knock. U need to have some additives that take care of this issue.
The purpose of additives is to prevent auto ignition.
Gasolines having higher octane number or higher RON, are less likely to auto ignition.
Adding octanes to the standard hydrocarbon chain chemically increases the octane number of the fuel.
(Basically making them branched Chain Hydrocarbons)
And higher octane fuels have better tendency of compression.. and higher pressure temperature are produced ultimately giving you more power output n efficiency in one stroke.
Higher octanes have better tendency of Burning #BUT this does not mean pre mature burning.
Octane number is the measure of IGNITION QUALITY of a fuel. Higher octanes have obviously better ignition quality and they burn at the spark not on high pressure stage (which is referred to as pre mature burning and causes knock).
In Knocking fuel burns twice, once at the time of high pressure stage, second at spark.
So simple is the chemistry of this combustion i.e. use higher octane fuels to keep your engine prevented from knocking.
And Japanese Fuels are two range as far i know. Med Range Super 95 RON Unleaded.
Hi Super 98 - 99 RON Unleaded.
Always use unleaded fuels. Higher amounts of lead causes Catalytic converter to Clogg. Attock Gasoline has higher amounts of Lead.
So now one can clearly identify which fuels to use. Which not. And there is no point Hi Octane is harmfull. Using gasoline below the recommended RON is harmful. Using gasoline above recommended RON, its more improved combustion. No cons of this.
Thank you.

[aunabbas_90]

The reason i have mentioned all this Gasoline comments is that recently i faced an issue of a very minute knock on slow speeds on AC Only.
Also Load ratio (while AC is on) increases which demands more abrupt response from piston cylinder arrangements, this also cause a prelim knock.
I panicked initially but later on without any mechanical alterations or settings, i just increased the ratio of HiOctane i was using. Rather sometimes i dint even use HOBC. But now when i poured in 50/50 n drove it for 3-4 days, i ve noticed that the issue is gone, AlhamdulillAH. Issue was not permanent. Like i used to notice it one day n it vanishes the other day.
I also have been advised that if u don't even want to mix it with Standard. Then drive it on full tank HOBC once a month or whenever going on Long routes. ..
I also got it inspected. There is absolutely no problem in the car. Its just our petrols in here that cause issues, Even ppl say pak ka HiOctane m bhe mixing hai, so in order to make sure that u r using RON 91+ i blv that we must mix Amounts of HiOctane.
So ppl driving JDMs must use HOBC, as it is recommended by the OEM as well. a brother here said RON 95 is recommended for Vitz, he is right.
So this was an experience i thought it is must share with our dear mates.

[anon35615524]

Bro as per my working and source; in 3rd generation, June 2015 1.0L Vitz, anti theft device (I am not sure that it means immobilizer here or otherwise) is only existant in 1.0F Smart Style package Vitz by default.

Its optional in other 1.0L Vitz. Status in F M Package Vitz is not clear, that whether its offered or not? (By default, its not present in these variants)

[aunabbas_90]

One more thing finally.
That Gasolines of different grades i.e. RON 90 n RON 95, do not mix on linearly. Which means that as per our standard practice of mixing standard with HoBC doesn't make it HOBC
It is chemical process being carried out at High Temp n Pressure conditions and Ultimately giving specific RONs to a Gasoline.
JazakAllah
And Best Regards to all of the members

[abart]

right! but the problem is here in PK oil companies are notorious for selling fake hioctane fuel not good quality you know we heard a lot in media few months back about mixing of magnesium,.. lead stuff to boost octane number which is harmful for engine

[aunabbas_90]

You are quite right.. Anything is possible in Pakistan.
Yes it is one of the cheaper techniques to increase Octane number of Gasoline. i.e. addition of TEL Tetra Ethyl Led.
"Harmful" it is to the extent that Lead turns as a by product of combustion phenomenon (exhaust gases) n it exhausted thru the Catalytic Converter. Which in turn clogs the catalytic Convertor. N some quantities like 10-15% may be deposited in the chamber, (that as well in not solid state.. but u can say plasma) But not all.
Attock fuels i blv still use this technique. As members complained abt quick cat clog when using Attock.
Shell is blvd to put a sample test report in front of media after that incident that there samples turned out lead free. They also shared the sample test report in the annual report of Shell Pakistan 2017-18
They claim that we give Unleaded gasoline. So at minimum wat we can do is try to use Shelll.

[AkbarGr8]

I have a Toyota Passo 2015 (we have the same drivetrain i believe) and have no engine knock using regular fuel from Total.

Give it a shot.

[aunabbas_90]

All right