Total 9000 5w30 engine oil

[anon35615524]

will servicing the fuel injectors give more benefit

I think YES, but by properly opening and removing them, and then cleaning them, and not cleaning them via injectors cleaners.

They have very strong chemicals and may damage rubber parts which they may come across.

STP/ABRO fuel injector cleaner?

Not recommended.

[iqbalu140]

Exactly. Roof be like 'im bout to end this whole cars career'

[anon35615524]

I'm thinking of getting LM Engine flush

Highly not recommended. Avoid it at all costs.

Kixx G1 API SN 10W40 semi-syntheitic

I think YES.

This will be better for my engine compared to API SJ 20W40

For sure.

Any idea how much a compression test will cost?

Brother no idea.

[iqbalu140]

Thankyou so much for your valuable input. For the next 4-6 months, I'll be in super savings mode. But for now, the highest priority is given to the tyres. Although the front tyres are okay, but the rear tyres, taubha Astagfar. They have cracks and the tread is coming to an end.

I think even if I skip out on the rear wheel bearings, the new tyres will perform just as good as they would with new wheel bearings. But I'll need experts to advise me properly.
As for the oils, I'll skip out on LM. Since I read some post about a cars crank getting worn out or something. And I'll see if I can get a genuine Kixx oil in Karachi.

[anon35615524]

If you opt for changing tyres, then |i would suggest to do it in the end, when all works have been done.

I think even if I skip out on the rear wheel bearings, the new tyres will perform just as good as they would with new wheel bearings

I would suggest to not skip it.

Change bearings too, if you feel that they are causing noises, or any other troubles.

When you are already doing everything, get this work done too.

A bad bearing can cause many problems.

[anon35615524]

After tyres change, wheels balancing and alignment is a must! in my books.

[iqbalu140]

Sir agar yehi case hai. After 3-4 oil changes, I'll give Total 5w30 another shot. Abhi tou it has mineral oil, next 2-3 oil changes will be semi-syntheitic, phir I'll go to fully synthetic. I dont want to make the jump directly to fully synthetic, because if it does ANYTHING to the seals, this car will be scrapped without a second thought from me​, I'll gradually bring the viscosity down, next oil change will be 10W40, phir oske baad it'll be 10W30, and oske baad 5W30. I'll monitor the leakages with each oil change.

[iqbalu140]

Yea I guess you're right. Jab kaam ho hee rahay hain, behtar hai sab kaam ek sath hee hojain. Par all of this will be done in a period of 6-7 months. When I've saved up enough money for the job, I'll get it done.
And also, as for the bushing, I've opted for RBI front bushings, they're costing 4000/-, and ball joints 3000/- from Auto World.
Similarly, NTN rear wheel bearings are costing around 3500-3800 from PW store. It'll be better to get them myself, as compared to relying on a mechanic to get them (because of their commission, and overstating the price).

[anon35615524]

It'll be better to get them myself, as compared to relying on a mechanic to get them (because of their commission, and overstating the price).

Agreed.

give Total 5w30 another shot

I would sincerely suggest to avoid it.

IMO, if engine health is prefect in all respects, then 10w-30 / 10w-40 in semi-synthetic, or preferably mineral, would suffice.

Rest, your money, your choice.

Best of luck!

[iqbalu140]

It always helps when people with knowledge advise others correctly, rather than these dumb and arrogant ustaads saying 'bhai yeh tael na dalo, yeh dalo'. I'll always be grateful to experts here who provide correct information with honest opinions about products.

[iqbalu140]

I may stick to semi-syntheitic oils after 3 oil changes (only if the engine performance stays the same, or increases a bit, and ofc, provided no more oil leaks). I heard somewhere that mineral oil causes sludge buildup. Is this true?

[anon35615524]

dumb and arrogant ustaads

Well... as per my experience, I have found dumbness in most, but arrogance in a very few.

Unfortunately, yahan Forums per humnay mechanics / ustaads ko theek thaák badnaám kar k rakh dia hua va hai, and the solution to avoid dumbness of mechanics is very simple: Money!

The more you put in, the better would be the results! As ultimately, everything comes at a cost!

[anon35615524]

If affordabilty is not an issue, then for locally assembled cars, dealerships are the best option, but again, they come at a cost.

Then, many other garages are there, which do quality work, but then their rates are also high.

We all (including myslef) may want quality work, but at ridiculously low prices, and for that, we go to these mechanics / ustaads, knowing very well that they are not qualified, do not have proper tools, and might ruin our ride(s), and we all do it, just to save some bucks.

We all want qulaity works are dirt cheap rates, which is not possible.

[anon35615524]

When we know that the local mechanics / ustaads do not even have proper tools to do the works and also do not have the caliber, then why we even go to them?

They charge very very less when compared to 3S, but then, quality of service is compromised.

So its best to go to good garages, if we do not want our money to be wasted, else if, we would like to have the work done from local mechanics / ustaads, then if possible, its best to self study, and then go to them for the works, so that chances of failures are minimised and money is not wasted.

[iqbalu140]

Agreed 100%. It's always better to research on the problem you're facing, troubleshoot it by yourself, and go to mechanics after that. You'll know when to stop them from fudging up anything, and you'll know the job is being carried out in a proper manner.

[anon35615524]

I heard somewhere that mineral oil causes sludge buildup.

Brother I do not think that mineral oil can cause sludge formation. There could be other reasons for sludge formation.

As per

Oil sludge

Following are the reasons of sludge formation:

Sludge is usually caused by a poorly designed or defective crankcase ventilation system, low engine operating temperatures, the presence of water in the oil or crankshaft-induced cavitation, and can accumulate with use.

Oil sludge that causes an engine to run poorly or even seize is a rare occurrence and typically happens only when oil changes have been neglected or if the car has been driven extensively with an extremely low oil level.

[anon35615524]

How to avoid sludge buildup:

Ways to minimize sludge production and accumulation include performing frequent oil changes, performing mechanized engine flushing or de-sludging, using synthetic oil, and following the manufacturer's engine maintenance routine. Audi, Chrysler, Dodge, Volkswagen, Saab, Lexus, and Toyota models are commonly known for oil sludge problems if engines are not serviced as per respective manufacturer specifications.

[anon35615524]

So if I conclude, if oil changes are done at regular intervals, along with oil filter, sludge problem may not be there, or may be quite less.

Irrespective semi-synthetic, fully-synthetic, or mineral, etc. (and I admit that fully synthetic is overall best), the oil must be 100% genuine and original, and from some reputed brands.

e.g. in 10w-30, I think Caltex / Havoline 10w-30 is the best, and best value for money, despite being mineral oil.

[humayun.chughtai.7]

I am using Total 5w-30 in my 7afe swapped corolla indus and no issues at all. Replace it at the interval of 5000 kms.

Previously, was using Total 10w-40.

[yasir7942]

Better use 10w-40 fully synthetic. You can use different Imported brands Like Petromin, Atlantic, Micking and Performa like these bands not have copy in market.