just copied it from another source...a person having a similar sort of problem[TABLE="width: 400"]
[TD]Hello Vincent, about two weeks ago after driving for about 25 miles, first 20 miles, highway, the next five miles local traffic, I came to a red light and tried to stop. The car wouldn't stop and continue to roll pass the red light, even with my foot on the brake. I got panic and shifted the car to park.
I was told I shouldn't have done that because of the possible damage to the parking pin and transmission. Luckily, neither happened. The next day I took the car to a mechanic and had it inspected.
The brake was fine. The mechanic said the stopping problem was caused by the throttle body sticking and he proceeded to clean it. One week later, the same stopping problem happened again, coincidentally, at a few street lights before the last time, also after driving for about 25 miles.
This time I shifted the car to neutral and was able to stop the car. But the engine was revving very high, to about 4,500 rpm for 15 to 20 seconds. I took the car back to the same mechanic. He tried to duplicate the same stopping problem and wasn't successful.
He didn't want to go ahead and replace the throttle body because he was not 100% sure that would solve the problem. Other people told me it could be a computer problem. Do you have any suggestions as to what and where should I look?
- 1990 Toyota Corolla
- Automatic transmission
- 118,000 miles
- Fuel injected
- P/S, A/C
- Timing belt changed 3? month ago
- Boot Axial changed 3? month ago
Thanks very much for your time.
A. I don't blame him for not wanting to replace the throttle body without being 100% sure that is the problem. And of course without being able to duplicate the problem, he can't really test anything.
I would suspect the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) would be the more likely culprit here. A sticking IACV could very well cause the problem you describe. If you're going to gamble on something to fix the problem, that would be my bet.
Another thing I would check is the accelerator cable. Make sure it is in good shape with no chaffing or kinks and that it moves freely without binds.