Trying to Survive - '92 Suzuki Jimny Ownership Log

[pwuser162557941033]

Can confirm that the brake rotors for the Suzuki Samurai fit the Suzuki Jimny JA11. The part is also shared with the Chevrolet/Geo Tracker and Suzuki Sidekick.

With my existing rotors at 7.1 mm and 7.0 mm respectively, ordering new brake rotors became increasingly urgent. Unfortunately, due to the criticality of the part, and with zero local sources able to find decent rotors, I had to pay 4x the price of the actual rotors in shipping and customs extortion fees.

The rotors are Powerstop JBR564EVC. The pair cost $58.

The new rotors are each 10 mm thick, and have an engraving specifying a discard thickness of 8 mm. Braking performance has slightly improved, with hopefully more to come after the pads and rotors bed in.

[sardarg]

[pwuser163033411193]

@pwuser162557941033 Can You Guide me One thing. I have Noticed the Temperature Needle with the new Engine does not rise till the middle but till just 10% of the meter guage. I also replaced the temperature sensor but still stuck on that point. If its rising that means the problem isnt with the sensor but why isnt it rising till the optimum temperature. What should i check for it?

[pwuser162557941033]

You probably don't have a thermostat, or your thermostat is stuck open.

Within 15 minutes of driving after a cold start with a running engine, the coolant temperature should rise to the middle of the gauge, 90°C. With no thermostat installed, the engine will never get to operating temperature, will use too much fuel, and will wear critical components excessively. A good thermostat is cheap, you can find TAMA brand ones brand new and install one. W44SC-88 for cold regions, W44SB-82 otherwise.

Remember to use a fresh gasket between the halves of the thermostat housing and to scrape the existing gasket out - there's probably one stuck on there. And of course use coolant, not water. Never use plain water.

To check your gauge in case your gauge isn't functioning correctly: You'll notice the water temp sender on the side of the thermostat housing. With the key in the ignition, take the terminal off and ground it to the bare metal of the thermostat housing or anywhere else nearby. You should see the gauge rise to the maximum slowly if the gauge is working well.

To check your temperature sender: after a drive, you can use an infrared thermometer to check the temperature of the top of the metal thermostat housing. If it says you're above 80°C, and the gauge isn't reading correctly, you have a faulty temp sender. These can also be purchased brand new.

[pwuser162557941033]

At a complete loss trying to find competent AC service technicians. Evaporator outlet temperature swings between 18 and 22°C when parked in the shade. Raised the idle RPM to 1400 to make it slightly more bearable, insulated the suction and discharge lines against the exhaust.

So far I have visited at least 10 shops on Khushal Rd. Not a single one of them is able to do anything intelligent about it.

[kameetaha]

I would recommend you to take matter in your own hands by getting AC gauge, posting pressures over here so experts can diagnose then guide you accordingly.

What has been done so far apart from insulating lines?

[pwuser162557941033]

Here are the low/high readings with the AC running in 35C ambient:

1000rpm: 26/130 psi
3000rpm: 18/160 psi.

New drier, replacement compressor. OEM is SS07LT4 - need to get a new one. Condenser and radiator fans operate in tandem when AC is on. Major gaps, especially in the shrouds, sealed with foam. Evaporator outlet line temp is generally at 18 to 20°C - not cold enough at 1000rpm idle.

Raising idle to 1400-1500 gets us 15°C. Driving 3k-5k RPM is >10°C, at night, as low as 5°C.

What I need is someone with the proper equipment to evacuate the system correctly and install a new compressor/drier/condenser/anything else.

The primary issues are that nobody:

• Verifies subcool/superheat, instead charging by andaza
• Evacuates correctly, leading to an adulterated system no matter how much money you spend, practically guaranteeing future failure. Correctly = precise micron reading, 30-45 minute vacuum or more as needed.
• Pressure and leak tests correctly, to avoid me constantly coming back and paying for more refrigerant that they're pissing away into the atmosphere because of some stupid leak that could've been fixed and tested on the spot. And opening the system contaminates it immediately anyway, necessitating a new drier and another vacuum, which is again done incorrectly...

Taking matters into my own hands means spending a good amount on things that I will have little use for in the future - a scale, micron gauge, the correct fittings, a vacuum pump, thermocouples for the lines to calculate subcool/superheat...

I can do that, sure - but I don't want to start a small AC business. I want my car AC fixed and to pay someone for their expertise.

[sardarg]

sir @pwuser162557941033 did you tried frosticar at sirsyed road mr. aamir is owner

[pwuser162557941033]

2,900 km ago, I replaced the fouled Denso IW24 with NGK BKR6EYA-11 that were cheaply available nearby. The car ran fine and never really did anything egregious, but I started noticing hesitation under boost.

Eventually, anywhere near 7 psi / 50 kPa of boost, I would get serious hesitation that indicated spark blowout below 3000 rpm. Above 3000 rpm, things seemed okay, but underpowered. The hesitation persisted.

The distributor rotor (YEC YR-502) and cap (YEC YD-812) were changed along with a new Suzuki OEM distributor cap gasket 13,700 km ago - they have plenty of life left. More indication that it was the plugs or high tension wires.

Replaced the Seiwa CNG spark plug wires with a set of NGK RC-SE76, but the problem continued to become worse over time.

Tried to find spark plugs locally, but not a single person had what I needed: iridium, NGK 7 heat range or more, 0.8mm spark gap. Sellers trying to sell the BKR6EIX always ended up showing me BKR6EIX-11 plugs, claiming they are the same. They are not.

Since these are gapped at the factory, and NGK strictly forbids regapping them, attempting to regap them would introduce a degree of imprecision I didn't have time to deal with.

Finally, imported Niterra BKR7EIX plugs at a significant extortion premium. Manufacturer claims 50k mi/80k km life. Greased the terminals with the mystery Chinese dielectric grease before installation.

Night and day difference, no misfire under boost, no hesitation.

The BKR6EYA-11 plugs showed significant erosion at the copper electrode, widening the gap even further beyond the already large gap.

The plugs themselves seem fine, and fueling seems fine also, probably thanks to the late gen ECU.

[pwuser162557941033]

I'll visit them, though I'm skeptical already. Let's see if there are any orphan fridge compressors lying around.

[pwuser162557941033]

@Xulfiqar Hello, what do you think of the ground strap annealing wrt ign. advance, the condition of the porcelain and the peppering on the first plug? Seems to me like signs of detonation in at least that cylinder. Fuel is HOBC.

Any other insights from what you see are of course welcome.

[Xulfiqar]

That looks like telltale detonation. But more heat related rather than ignition.

What heat range are those sparkies?

[pwuser162557941033]

NGK 6. I've installed 7s with a smaller spark gap.

[pwuser162557941033]

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