Before installing a new head gasket, you must have your mechanic inspect both the head and the block for straightness. This is not done by eye - you need a straight edge and a feeler gauge. If the block and/or the head are warped, for whatever reason, they need to be resurfaced.
A good quality new head gasket is essential, as are new head bolts. A torque wrench must be used to torque the head down, turning the bolts in the correct order and with the specified torque.
If these items are not available locally - which - in my experience, they are not - you can try and order them from overseas. Pistons especially so. Sleeves are available for the F6A, but I have not seen any for the turbocharged F6A. Anyway, the stock boost pressure isn't particularly high, and the engine itself can handle double that boost in the right conditions, so something is wrong here. It's not the engine's design or any kind of fectory faalt that is to blame.
I see a lot of rust in your coolant channels. Have your mechanic clean and brush the block. It's a crime not to if you can see it and it's literally right there waiting for you to clean it.
What beat up that first piston? You must have your timing belt tensioned correctly and the ignition timing checked and verified with a timing light.
Do both. It's a small, simple engine and an overhaul is easily done provided that you use the right parts and have a competent (non-ustaad!) mechanic. Use the right oil. I recommend Delo Gold 15W-40 if you don't have cold winters. Otherwise use any decent 5W-40.
The stock boost pressure is not very high - your engine shouldn't be going out of business this often. Use coolant, use a thermostat, make sure you have decent oil pressure and no oil galleries are blocked or impeded by sludge. Make sure your turbo feed line has the factory restrictor present. You must allow the engine and turbocharger to warm up before you apply any kind of high sustained load. Even with an 88C thermostat, this engine takes a while to actually warm up. About 10-15 minutes in my experience until the oil reaches 80C.
Read this from Xulfiqar:
Regarding the turbo, don't listen to backpressure nonsense without actual measurements involved. Otherwise it's pure ustaadi and jargon.
- Check your turbo oil drain hose that attaches to the pan - it should be clean and free of kinks.
- Check the turbo oil feed line to see that it has the factory flow restrictor present.
- Check whether your wastegate boost reference line is correctly connected to the manifold, there are no holes in it, and your spring is actually functional and you're not developing excessive boost pressure. The factory wastegate opens at anywhere from 60 kPa to 80 kPa depending on its age and how worn out it is.
- Check your MAP sensor to see that it's not malfunctioning. With a 5V supply, it returns ~2.5V at 100 kPa, i.e. sea level.
With the turbo physically off the engine and the blades visible on either side, move them slightly to check for play, in and out, as well as side to side. Replace the turbo if it's bad. It's an IHI RHB31 VZ9, scrapyards have them sometimes, and you can even get clones for about $100 online.
Once the cylinder bore has been machined, it will be physically larger, because material has been removed from the bore.
That means the piston also has to be physically larger so that it doesn't rattle around in the bore.
That means using larger pistons. They come in different sizes, millimeters on top of the diameter of the piston, which is 65mm. So +0.25, +0.5, +0.75 means it has that much additional diameter.
Notice the scale of these measurements. The width of an average human hair is 0.075 mm. Can you visualize or even measure 0.25 millimeters with any instrument lying nearby? No hathora paana plaas ustaad or lathe-waala can do that, especially not with their bare eyes in a dark, dirty workshop. Therefore, if you have any of these people do a hack job and rebuild your engine, they'll miss something critical, make a stupid mistake, and you're going to be stranded somewhere again.
