I see a lot of varnish buildup and and some sludge too, It seems that either your engine was leaking oil from the top somewhere or your PCV valve was blocked - or this car was used for very short journeys.
The bent con rod is scrap, get a different one, The rest can be checked by a good machinist very easily on a con rod boring jig (salman engineering near radio pakistan)
Also undo the VVTi gear and check for sludge in there, a lot of oil is moved in it and it can sieze too if sludge is let to rest in there. Its the same as any toyota VVTi cam actuator (I like to call it cherry blossom ki dibbi :D)
please note that when installing make sure its tightened to 40 lb/ft in advance position (pin unlocked from hole) once tightened then rotate back and lock the pin back - if you tighten it in locked position there is a 50% chance the cam wont advance.
Price out the parts and also short block, you need to buy some assembly lube and toyota engine sealant too. Does your mechanic have a torque wrench?? - if not then buy that too and consider it as a cost of parts (take it with you when the job is done).
doesnt look too bad. Have the crank checked for true and measure the piston clearances - the standard allowed are 0.020mm to 0.041mm, max being 0.10mm - measure at skirt of piston at 90 degrees to small end aka gudgeon pin - meaning on the two skirts, about 45mm from top of piston (maening not the lower edge but a bit above) - use a bore gauge to measure the piston clearance and subtract to find clearance.
I would have redone it with a short block or even just internals - recorrected to spec with new wear parts where necessary and be over with it.