Finally today i got my car back from my mechinic, got a 1600 CC conversion in my 1970 beetle. Most of you have seen my car hopefully....
Sameer bhai as always helped a lot...so thanks buddy.
FYI: The engine i got was in a pretty good condition, i didnt had to replace the piston and the sleve set, just added new rings and thats pretty much it.
Now few questions about the Engine break in Process:
I was told that since i only changed the rings i dont have to drive for 100's of miles to complete the engine break in process. After the conversion they started the car and let the engiine run for about 4 hours. My main mechinic tells me that i can drive my car as hard as i want and the break in process is complete.
On the contrary, other guys at the workshop say that i have to be very careful for at least 500 miles and then i would need oil change and some other adjustments.
I was searching the web to educate myself and came across this article. THis article explains the whole process.
"[highlight] Running the Engine!
This next step is VERY IMPORTANT! Immediately bring the rpm's up to 2500 or higher. I vary the rpm's between 2500 and 4000, and do this for 15 minutes while keeping your eyes glued to the oil light! A second person back at the engine looking for oil or fuel leaks is a REALLY good idea too, since you don't want a fire or Valdez in your driveway! Most oil leaks will occur very soon after startup, if at all. Now, this is a nerve-racking experience to have the engine (it sure seems loud!) at these rpm levels when it's NEW, but if everything is OK, it's going to be fine. Remember that this engine is not even under a load, so it's not a big deal.
After the 15 minutes has elapsed, shut down the engine, and change the oil and adjust the valves. When you fire the engine up this time, you can let the engine idle, and make the needed carburetor adjustments. Drive the car easy, and change the oil and adjust the valves again after 100 miles or so.
Now that the "bearing break in" is done, you want to REALLY heat the engine up by driving it hard! This loads the rings and will break the pistons, cylinders, and rings in together. I have found that engines that are missing the flaps or thermostat assembly have a tough time seating the rings in, and the only cure for this (my experience) is to get the engine HOT (some of these engines "never" break in). Find a hill and drive full throttle up the thing a few times, in a gear that loads the engine down a bit. The loading and extra heat burns the glaze off the cylinders and allows everything to seat together well. I do not feel a longer "break in" period is needed (some say 10,000 miles) other than getting the rings seated, and this can be done in 500 miles.
Repeat the oil change/valve adjustment at 500 miles, and then resume your normal maintenance schedule (which hopefully does not mean oil changes every 15K miles, and/or valve adjustments once a cylinder or two goes dead at idle). [/highlight]"
source of the article:http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/engnbrkn.htm
After reading this article, now i am kinda confused what to do and what not to...I know this is a long post but i know there are a lot of experienced VW enthusiates and i want some honest suggestions/precautions and am counting on you guys.
I was driving home from the workshop and i was about to run outa gas so converted my car to petrol (planning to remove the CNG kit), no problems....Stopped at a petrol station to fil up the fuel....the car would not start at all...it sounded like the battery is dying but no problems when i was driving it on CNG. I have a new genrator, new coil, new rotor, plugs and a three months old 85 A battery. Any ideas??????
Thanks for your help in advance.