Wrenching with VCheng

[VCheng]

The FJ is back on its feet again:

[Xulfiqar]

According to the manual "an oil with a higher viscosity may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds or under extreme load conditions". The 0-40 works great in this engine. The 0-20 choice has more to do with meeting CAFE standards in the US.

Besides, this is a dual DI/conventional FI engine.

yes I know what it is - and I have a few freind working as mechanics in toyota dealerships where the scion version are serviced - unless you are booting the engine 95% of the time - any oil with above 10 cst viscosity at 100C actually slows down flow to the crank, it was a sort of literature that was given by toyota. and the engine still floods the oil with fuel, let it warm up to clean itself.

Similar literature is also for the 2GR-FE and 1GR-FE engines.

[VCheng]

yes I know what it is - and I have a few freind working as mechanics in toyota dealerships where the scion version are serviced - unless you are booting the engine 95% of the time - any oil with above 10 cst viscosity at 100C actually slows down flow to the crank, it was a sort of literature that was given by toyota. and the engine still floods the oil with fuel, let it warm up to clean itself.

Similar literature is also for the 2GR-FE and 1GR-FE engines.

Yes, proper warm up here is not easy in the winter.

[VCheng]

I opened up the Corvette's driver side door and took out the Door Control Module. I am sad to report that is constructed in such a way that it is non-repairable, with no feasible way to change the relays. The whole window regulator assembly needs to be replaced. It is on order (List Price $582, Online about $400, salvaged part about $150) and the rest of the repair will be completed when it arrives.

[VCheng]

Disconnect the battery:

[VCheng]

Remove the two T-30 Torx hidden under the small panel just below the arm rest:

[VCheng]

Pull off the door panel and disconnect the main harness:

[VCheng]

Door panel removed:

[VCheng]

Remove the speaker:

[VCheng]

This wiring harness goes to the Door Control Module:

[VCheng]

But it is a part of the Window Regulator Assembly and must be removed as a whole:

Not shown: Remove two 14 mm bolts holding the glass and remove. Remove four 10 mm bolts holding both ends of the two window channels. Remove three 10 mm bolts holding the window motor to the door.

[VCheng]

The Window Regulator is assembled in Mexico:

[VCheng]

But the DCM itself is made in Germany:

[VCheng]

However, the relays inside the DCM are not serviceable:

[Xulfiqar]

desolder and resolder them.

radioshack near your place?

[ecu_designer]

I opened up the Corvette's driver side door and took out the Door Control Module. I am sad to report that is constructed in such a way that it is non-repairable, with no feasible way to change the relays. The whole window regulator assembly needs to be replaced. It is on order (List Price $582, Online about $400, salvaged part about $150) and the rest of the repair will be completed when it arrives.

Before changing the relays do confirm that relays are the real culprit otherwise u gonna end up doing a useless exercise
Nothing is impossible sir, just u need a Hot Air Gun to melt the yellow sticky compound solution & then desolder the relay pins, u can save few more $$ by deploying any general purpose DENSO relays with some extra length wires along with appropriate connectors.

[VCheng]

desolder and resolder them.

radioshack near your place?

I have the basic gear to do that.

Before changing the relays do confirm that relays are the real culprit otherwise u gonna end up doing a useless exercise
Nothing is impossible sir, just u need a Hot Air Gun to melt the yellow sticky compound solution & then desolder the relay pins, u can save few more $$ by deploying any general purpose DENSO relays with some extra length wires along with appropriate connectors.

Good idea, I will dig into this a little more according to your suggestions. Thank you for that!

[Moderator]

[VCheng]

Current project in progress: Rebuilding the front calipers on the FJ Cruiser. Everything is disassembled, but cleaning off the rust from the caliper body is a pain. A bad pain.

[VCheng]

The front calipers after three days of wire brushing and sanding, and still not clean enough to paint. A few more days of cleaning should get it there.