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Thread: Engine Oil for Vitz 2006 KSP 90 1.0L

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    Default Engine Oil for Vitz 2006 KSP 90 1.0L Weaker Engine

    Experts .

    My Vitz 2006 model KSP90 1.0L has done approx. 107,000 km and its engine has gone weaker now. It has started reducing oil - approx 450 ml per 3.500 km(every oil change) which is 13% oil reduction per oil change interval. Also it gives white smoke (only) when FULL throttle is applied (but no smoke at all with normal driving)

    Experts ,including toyota dealership, have recommended me to switch to 20W50 engine oil to reduce wear and tear (though it will effect fuel consumption negatively) ; currently I am using 5W30 as recommended in the car manual.

    Questions :
    1. Is their suggestion correct ? .Any disadvantages of using thick oil apart from bad fuel consumption?
    2. Which 20W50 oil should I use - which one is the best in the market . Toyota oil or any other ?
    3. What is the recommended oil change interval for this particular suggested oil



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    Quote Originally Posted by vitz_2006 View Post
    Should I get the compression test done as I want to know how much more car can run on this engine without repair ?.
    Yes get compression test done and since you are from Lahore you can go to osama bhai he is professional and work on basis of book (service manual)

    Osama contact no 03214106898

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    Quote Originally Posted by saboor73 View Post
    Yes get compression test done and since you are from Lahore you can go to osama bhai he is professional and work on basis of book (service manual)

    Osama contact no 03214106898
    Do you know where his workshop is in Lahore and any idea about test charges?

    Sent from my C6603 using PW Forums mobile app

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    Quote Originally Posted by vitz_2006 View Post
    Do you know where his workshop is in Lahore and any idea about test charges?

    Sent from my C6603 using PW Forums mobile app
    He workshop is in garden town he charges reasonably you can expect lower charges then 3s

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    Quote Originally Posted by saboor73 View Post
    Yes get compression test done and since you are from Lahore you can go to osama bhai he is professional and work on basis of book (service manual)

    Osama contact no 03214106898
    I think when it has been established that the engine is consuming oil at a rate which is higher than usual, it indicates a top or major overhaul and going for a compression test will only indicate low compression reading than the normal acceptable range. Hence, I see no point in carrying out one.
    Don't leave a highway for a byway....

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    Quote Originally Posted by imrananr View Post
    I think when it has been established that the engine is consuming oil at a rate which is higher than usual, it indicates a top or major overhaul and going for a compression test will only indicate low compression reading than the normal acceptable range. Hence, I see no point in carrying out one.
    Compression test can tell if oil consumption is due to valve seals or piston ring or both or non so that a owner can spend wisely anyway I have seen ppl just throwing and overhauling perfectly good engines because they didn't knew the reason of oil consumption

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    Reduction of oil in 3 cylinder engine is common.
    Use liqui moly 5 40 with ceretec additive. As per symptoms i think you should plan for new engine block replacement after some time
    Honda Civic 99 EK Hatch / Honda Integra 92 DA Coupe
    RIP Adil( @AridSoul)

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    Yes, for sure I would need engine replacement or overhaul soon but I want to know how long the current engine can last.... and for that I believe only way to tell is the compression test??? Or is there any other way?

    Sent from my C6603 using PW Forums mobile app

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    Quote Originally Posted by vitz_2006 View Post
    Yes, for sure I would need engine replacement or overhaul soon but I want to know how long the current engine can last.... and for that I believe only way to tell is the compression test??? Or is there any other way?

    Sent from my C6603 using PW Forums mobile app
    Compression test is the way too go

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    Compression test done by Osama as suggested by saboor73 with following results

    Dry readings
    Cylinder 1: 205 Psi
    Cylinder 2: 210 Psi
    Cylinder 3: 205 Psi

    It seems there is no compression issue at all , assuming that his meter calibration and readings were correct

    His Diagnosis:

    1. Chamber needs carbon cleaning as there is carbon built up there
    2. Oil reduction is probably due to Carboned-up rings
    3. Check at the cold start if car gives blue smoke. If it does ,valve seals might need to be replaced without opening the head

    His Suggested Solutions :
    >>For problem # 1 (Chamber Carbon) , use valve cleaner
    >>For problem # 2 (Carboned-up rings), use engine flush for atleast next 3 oil changes . Also run the car at full throttle for sometime to remove some carbon.
    >>If problem still persists , valve seals would need to be replaced without opening the head

    Please share your thoughts on the diagnosis and suggested 3 solutions

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    Quote Originally Posted by vitz_2006 View Post
    Compression test done by Osama as suggested by saboor73 with following results

    Dry readings
    Cylinder 1: 205 Psi
    Cylinder 2: 210 Psi
    Cylinder 3: 205 Psi

    It seems there is no compression issue at all , assuming that his meter calibration and readings were correct

    His Diagnosis:

    1. Chamber needs carbon cleaning as there is carbon built up there
    2. Oil reduction is probably due to Carboned-up rings
    3. Check at the cold start if car gives blue smoke. If it does ,valve seals might need to be replaced without opening the head

    His Suggested Solutions :
    >>For problem # 1 (Chamber Carbon) , use valve cleaner
    >>For problem # 2 (Carboned-up rings), use engine flush for atleast next 3 oil changes . Also run the car at full throttle for sometime to remove some carbon.
    >>If problem still persists , valve seals would need to be replaced without opening the head

    Please share your thoughts on the diagnosis and suggested 3 solutions
    Compression seems good I wonder why Osama didn't perform wet compression test it would have gave a good idea of valve seals status

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    According to him wet is not required as dry readings were fine. Don't know if this logic is right???
    Should I ask for wet test as well?

    Sent from my C6603 using PW Forums mobile app

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    Quote Originally Posted by vitz_2006 View Post
    According to him wet is not required as dry readings were fine. Don't know if this logic is right???
    Should I ask for wet test as well?

    Sent from my C6603 using PW Forums mobile app
    Yes ask for wet compression test too

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    Quote Originally Posted by saboor73 View Post
    Compression seems good I wonder why Osama didn't perform wet compression test it would have gave a good idea of valve seals status
    #1 - I did the wet test although it wasn't required, its just not usable in this case, IIRC it was 230 - 235 - 23x, again, not valid in this case.
    #2 - compression test cannot identify a bad valve seal
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    Quote Originally Posted by vitz_2006 View Post
    Compression test done by Osama as suggested by saboor73 with following results

    Dry readings
    Cylinder 1: 205 Psi
    Cylinder 2: 210 Psi
    Cylinder 3: 205 Psi

    It seems there is no compression issue at all , assuming that his meter calibration and readings were correct

    His Diagnosis:

    1. Chamber needs carbon cleaning as there is carbon built up there - mostly due to low rpm driving and HI-Octane usage
    2. Oil reduction is probably due to Carboned-up OIL CONTROL rings
    3. Check at the cold start if car gives blue smoke. If it does ,valve seals might need to be replaced without opening the head

    His Suggested Solutions :
    >>For problem # 1 (Chamber Carbon) , use valve cleaner
    >>For problem # 2 (Carboned-up rings), use engine flush for atleast next 3 oil changes . Also run the car at full throttle for sometime to remove some carbon.
    >>If problem still persists , valve seals would need to be replaced without opening the head - valve seals have nothing to do with oil control rings being bad

    Please share your thoughts on the diagnosis and suggested 3 solutions
    text added in bold for clarification
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    Compression can be high sometimes due to carbon built up also. I suggest you to use Shell Ultra 5W40 fully synthetic. Do high speed highway runs.
    Your ego is writing cheques, your body can't cash.

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    @syncview : I assume you are Osama?. If you, as you stated above, you did the wet readings as well and they were in 23x for all three. Right?
    Also can you please elaborate your last point " valve seals have nothing to do with bad oil control rings".As far as I understood, I would need to replace valve seals and not oil control rings in case of blue smoke.... Right?

    Sent from my C6603 using PW Forums mobile app

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    Quote Originally Posted by vitz_2006 View Post
    @syncview : I assume you are Osama?. If you, as you stated above, you did the wet readings as well and they were in 23x for all three. Right?
    Also can you please elaborate your last point " valve seals have nothing to do with bad oil control rings".As far as I understood, I would need to replace valve seals and not oil control rings in case of blue smoke.... Right?

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    Yes you won't be replacing any rings etc in any case
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahmedraja1996 View Post
    Compression can be high sometimes due to carbon built up also. I suggest you to use Shell Ultra 5W40 fully synthetic. Do high speed highway runs.
    yes it can be high, but the difference cannot be too much.
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    Quote Originally Posted by syncview View Post
    yes it can be high, but the difference cannot be too much.
    This is caused by misconception of people who pour Hi Octane in JDMs, Vitz 660cc Passo etc. Hi-Octane is required for engines with compression 11.0. And very less driving like 5-8kms or low speed driving is cause. Using fully synthetic oil and doing high speed highway driving can sort out this issue
    Your ego is writing cheques, your body can't cash.

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    @vitz_2006

    I’ll suggest to use 5W-20 SN grade oil (probably ZIC A+) and first time change it after 2500 Km.
    Next time you can use it till 4K to 4.5K.
    Its fully Synthetic and low viscos oil and will help internal cleaning.
    Be Addicted To Help Others.

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