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Thread: Toyota 2e engine related problem

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    Default Toyota 2e engine related problem

    All experts please help the car in question is a 95 corolla 2e engine. Recently I took the car to mechanic as car was running heavy meaning ?kay ghut kay chal rahi thi?. Mechanic said only the carburetor has to be cleaned and timing has to be set. So he took out he carb did not open every screw, but just sprayed it carefully with a carb cleaner. Some gunk did came out which was like thickened petrol. Then he put it back on the car and adjusted the vacuum piping using a vacuum gauge. The vacuum piping has previously been messed with and the vacuum gauge needle was also showing the vacuum pressure to be in the green area. Then he adjusted the timing using a timing analyzer and told that when the accelerator is pressed the timing is not advancing up to the mark. For that he advised to get the distributor serviced which I didn?t do. Car was running way better than previously it ever had. Suddenly one week later after a long drive on the way back home when I start the car, it starts but when on idle after some vibration which felt like it's dropping RPM and then stops. I have to start it again and it did the same the whole journey back home continuously starting and stopping on idle only, whether the car was cold or at optimum temperature, so started the AC as I thought it will increase the RPM but same happened on AC as well but not so frequent.

    So when I was going to the mechanic next day the car was starting and stopping again on idle only and when cold and as soon as it reached optimum temperature it was fine, mechanic said that small particles might have blocked the carb somewhere and it?s not a big issue he swapped the plug wire no. 2 with no. 3 cranked up the car, car made some phat phat noises then he put the wire back to their original positions and car was fine again. Now the problems:

    1. It has been a month since going to the mechanic and the car is doing the same again, it starts and when on idle then feels like it?s loosing RPM and then stops after vibrating this happens when cold only it?s fine when on optimum temp or needle midway between cold and optimal temp. Now can anyone please guide me what the problem is and what is it related to? Should I get the distributor serviced as well and timing set as recommended by him? Also I searched a lot on the net some place it says distributor to be set at 5 deg BTDC and other place it is saying 8 or 10 deg BTDC with sub vacuum pipes off. So which one is correct for the 2e engine.

    2. The other problem is there are two vacuum ports on the car still open and when I asked why is it so the mechanic has said the vacuum gauge is showing no pressure when attached to them, he says previous mechanics have blocked them in such a way such that opening them is a cumbersome process. So are they part of the problem? Should I get them opened?

    3. When the mechanic was setting the vacuum pipes and as the AC was switched on the vacuum gauge was going haywire and the needle was continuously in the red or white zone. But mechanic after some adjustments brought it in the white zone and the needle was stable. He said that the AC is blocked at some place. Went to sabir AC and he opened the evaporator coil in about 8 years, for the first time I have seen anyone opening it and obviously it was clogged badly he serviced the AC thoroughly and was saying everything is fine. Now when I go to the mechanic again and on AC if the vacuum gauge needle still shows that it is in red or white zone what could be the problem? Forgot to mention AC was serviced between this trouble free period.

    Sorry in advance to all, for such a detailed problem.

    For Solution: https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/cor...-2#post4892387


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    would you please snap the picture of engine bay & share. I want to see which distributor type is on engine CDI with 2 vac pods or Old school dizzy with single vac pod. Plus the type of carb it is hooked with. - There are 2 versions of 2E engine

    you can check distributor overhaul reference here

    click this to get correct engine ignition data for your vehicle
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    Sir thank you so much will get the distributor serviced accordingly. The distributor is the CDI type with 2 vacuum pods, CDI 3-4yrears back was changed with a kabuli one. The carburetor is this type, will try to find a good quality camera for pics, as my mobile one is useless meanwhile you can see the ebay carb pic it resembles it and the carb on my car is automatic choke.

    Carburetor Toyota 2E Engine EE80 for 21100 11190 1984 Carbs New | eBay

    Which of the three seems to have correct ignition data:

    toyo6

    http://petrila.net/peugeot/TOYOTA/TO1E89A.PDF

    Streetracing.co.za • View topic - Technical Specifications 2E/4A-FE

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    you have the standard issue 2 bbl aisin carburettor, its very simple to setup. To clean it your mechanic needs to take it down to bits - clean out every single item and repack it with new gaskets, rings, seals etc. Then set it up.

    Before embarking on carburettor cleanup mission make sure your valve clearances are correct, your distributor is correct - check the centrifugal advance by hand to determine if its siezed.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Sir carburettor was a year back properly cleaned thoroughly opened up previously by maulana abdur rehman on tariq road and the fact that all seals, gaskets and rings were replaced by maulana sahib and he also repaired the carb butterfly therefore this mechanic did not open it up all again.

    Capsat gave the link to your post on how to clean the distributor therefore I would get it done according to it and check the valve clearances.

    By the way sir which of the three links I posted above has the best ignition data. According to which I would have to set the distributor degree.

    Where is the centrifugal advance located?

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    @Gliblastoma

    Corolla 1.3 1295 cc, 1987-91, ,Engine Code 2E

    ignition data

    Corolla 1.3,
    Ignition system type: El-i
    Ignition coil make/type: Den/-
    Supply voltage: 12 - Volts without ballast resistor
    Primary resistance: 1.2-1.5 Ohms
    Secondary resistance: 10200-13800 Ohms
    Distributor make/type: Den/19020-11030
    Contact breaker gap/air: 0.2-0.4 mm
    Dwell angle: n / a Deg
    Ignition Timing - unleaded: 5/800 Deg eng/rpm (without vacuum)
    Ignition Timing - leaded: 5/800 Deg eng/rpm (without vacuum)
    Timing mark location: Pulley
    No 1 plug location: O/S/F
    Firing Order: 1-3-4-2
    Spark plug make: NGK
    Spark plug type: BPR6EY-11
    Electrode gap: 1.1 mm

    Fuel System

    Corolla 1.3,
    Fuel type: L/U
    Fuel pump type/pressure: Mech/- bar
    Engine idle speed: 800 50 rpm
    Fast idle speed: 3600 200 rpm
    CO level at idle speed: 1.5 0.5 Vol %

    Engine Data

    Corolla 1.3,
    Valve clearance - inlet: 0.20 h mm (hot)
    Valve clearance - exhaust: 0.20 h mm (hot)
    Compression pressure: 10-13 bar
    Oil pressure: 2.5-5/3000 bar/eng/rpm
    Radiator pressure cap: 0.75-1.05 bar/type
    Drive belt 1 - size: 9.5x985 KDB988 mm/type
    Drive belt 2 - size: n / a mm/type

    Electrical System

    Corolla 1.3,
    Alternator output: 30/2000 Amps/eng/rpm
    Regulated output: 13.9-15.1 Volts
    Battery: 12/60 V/Ah
    Starter motor make/type: Den/0.8 kW

    Other data

    Corolla 1.3
    Clutch operation type: Hyd
    Clutch adjustment: 20-35/Pedal mm
    Cambelt failure: Damage
    Cambelt Part Number: 1356811052
    Tyre pressures: 1.9(27)f 1.9(27)r bar (psi)

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    Thank you so much capsat.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Glioblastoma View Post
    Thank you so much capsat.
    Its all because of only ONE Iconic person @Libra Thank you for 'assembling' so many of us in one huge arena ! [ this very forum ]
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    Hey brain tumour.

    I've tinkered with this engine and car for many many years now before I threw out this engine and replaced it with an AFE-series motor!

    1. First and foremost, get the timing/distributor issues sorted out. As @Xulfiqar bro has pointed out, mechanically distributor should be perfect. Without vacuum timing advance (those two vacuum pods not connected) how the heck is this engine pulling the vehicle? Its basically only running in limp mode (base+centrifugal advance, IF the centrifugal weights aren't stuck!).

    2. Timing is then adjusted using a timing light (called a timing gun too). Anyone adjusting just by hand is wasting time with the guessing game. Those timing specs are at a certain rpm. Stick to it. Better that you mark the 5deg and 10deg marks on the distro/engine block metal so if in future someone messes with it or you need to advance it a little then you don't have to go running off to the mech (only to find out he doesn't have a timing light any more). @capsat has shared a workshop having these things if your mechanic doesn't have them. (compression test+timing light both there).

    3. Carbs! Most people don't open them because they don't understand them. That doesn't mean they're difficult to work. If you don't want to open it then take some liqui moly fuel system cleaner or any other good cleaner, mix it with petrol (use 1part cleaner 4parts petrol), make approx one litre for starters; take the fuel line going to the mechanical pump and the return fuel lines - put them in this container; run the vehicle on idle for 20-30 mins, rev it fast like 2-3k rpms and then repeated accelerating from idle/fast idle condition; use this treatment regimen to dissolve gunk inside the carb and get it out. Sometimes people add fuel system cleaner to the fuel tank and it takes all the dirt and clogs fuel lines or fuel filter or dumps all that in the carb which causes more problems. So use this one litre 'tonic' of sorts - only if you cannot find someone competent to work on the carb. Plus its pretty simple and cheap.

    4. Bhai jaan, the AC condenser/evap clogged up has nothing to do with engine vacuum per se. Whenever the throttle is opened far enough or 'blipped' the vacuum gauge with dip towards zero. So know that that is not related to your engine woes thus far...

    5. Remember, there is fuel filter. Change that regularly. It gets neglected easily.

    6. Check for vacuum leaks. No vacuum pipe should be cracked. No vacuum pipe should leak. No vacuum port should be left as such.

    7. Do 1 2 3 and 6.

    Happy troubleshooting
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    Thanks ahsan for a detailed reply. As I said mechanic had a timing light but the timing was not advancing he suggested to go for a distributor servicing but I did not. So will get the distributor cleaned and valve clearances set by him. That's why I asked in the first place that was he right that I should get the distributor serviced, I didn't have a idea then but after the recommendations from the experts I will do it. Carb is clean now as far as I think do not want to get it opened again.

    There is no vacuum pipe leak for now as far as I can see but will go to him and get it checked again, the vac lines that are blocked he is saying the metal ones only that the local mechanics block it in such a way that it requires very high heat to expand the metallic lines they are heated to about 200deg celcius and then clear the blockage and even during that process there is a fear that the blockage may go somewhere inside the engine or the metallic line gets cracked all according to him, don't know much about it experts can shed some light in this matter.

    Fuel filter, air filter changed already.

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    WTF ! checked only now ! @OP what made you choose a disease as nick name ? - is it some obsession or way to seek attention ?? [ no offence ]
    - www.crackwheels.com - A skilled Dictator is much more beneficial to Country......than a Democracy of Ignorant people

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    My xe has no iddling issues.no black smoke from exhaust.runs very smooth
    But does 6km/ltr
    Can it be butterfly related issue?
    Life is short and very unpredictable just like a Quarter mile .....

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    Quote Originally Posted by capsat View Post
    WTF ! checked only now ! @OP what made you choose a disease as nick name ? - is it some obsession or way to seek attention ?? [ no offence ]
    None taken. Long story short always dreamed to be a neurosurgeon was obsessed with it, always wanted to do some research and find treatment for this one deadly disease but facing reality the neurosurgeon idea seems far fetched, so at the moment this is a obsession only in some area of my mind. Not at all a attention seeker.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hash4u View Post
    My xe has no iddling issues.no black smoke from exhaust.runs very smooth
    But does 6km/ltr
    Can it be butterfly related issue?
    Is it also on CNG.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Glioblastoma View Post
    Is it also on CNG.
    Yes 55 cylinder.its totally un affordable on petrol....all winters i drove it around or less then 200km's per month
    Life is short and very unpredictable just like a Quarter mile .....

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    Quote Originally Posted by hash4u View Post
    Yes 55 cylinder.its totally un affordable on petrol....all winters i drove it around or less then 200km's per month
    Then its very simple as these cars do not have ecu therefore either you can set it for CNG performance or petrol your choice, because in ecu the car's computer controls the tuning and here it is done manually. So when my car was on CNG it also gave me 5-6 km/l so its fine, but since CNG removal it gives around 9 or sometimes 10 on AC in city.

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    Only change for cng was timing advance.no air blockage or anything.in winters when cng was closed in punjab i retarded the timing back till knock was finished.
    1 mechanic claimed its butterfly
    I want to know what does a bad buttrrfly do
    Life is short and very unpredictable just like a Quarter mile .....

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    You are asking the wrong person what a butterfly does, do not know it myself. But when you changed the timing for petrol it should be with a timing gun and as told by capsat above, also check for vacuum leaks as our desi mechanics block the vacuum pipes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hash4u View Post
    My xe has no iddling issues.no black smoke from exhaust.runs very smooth
    But does 6km/ltr
    Can it be butterfly related issue?
    Quote Originally Posted by Glioblastoma View Post
    Then its very simple as these cars do not have ecu therefore either you can set it for CNG performance or petrol your choice, because in ecu the car's computer controls the tuning and here it is done manually. So when my car was on CNG it also gave me 5-6 km/l so its fine, but since CNG removal it gives around 9 or sometimes 10 on AC in city.
    Quote Originally Posted by hash4u View Post
    Only change for cng was timing advance.no air blockage or anything.in winters when cng was closed in punjab i retarded the timing back till knock was finished.
    1 mechanic claimed its butterfly
    I want to know what does a bad buttrrfly do
    There could be lots of things wrong with your vehicle to be eating fuel like this.

    - Have you ever gotten the carb opened/serviced/tinkered about? (cng mechs love to disable stuff on it).
    - Base timing has to be set with timing light. I have one if you need help with that. (but how're we going to know engine rpm...hmmm).
    - CNG equipment definitely messes with stuff. Although if you have a drilled-carb setup, its less likely to be the cause of higher fuel consumption.
    - Spark plug gaps are often reduced by mechs for CNG operation. Petrol definitely needs proper gaps. (I've read both 0.8mm and 1.1mm).
    - And then there're always the various carb screw settings. That could be off too.

    In short, a complete diagnostic before going onto the butterfly issue. A bad butterfly usually shows up as an unstable/erratic/high idle that wont go down no matter how much the throttle is closed.

    ===================

    @Glioblastoma, distro service (including checking and testing the vacuum pods on it and movement it produces inside distro) is the correct way. It gets vacuum from manifold as well as from a nipple on the carb (I think thats the one which produces vacuum only on open throttle/when throttle is blipped; @Xulfiqar bro can confirm?)
    Selling Vitz+local cars - compatible bluetooth Ecu Scantool, High-amp car chargers, Apple-certified Lightning Cables, etc. Click on my name and see my started threads for details.

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    My car used to stall on petrol.got carb serviced.in the end turned out to b a rusted fuel tank.changed with a kabli one
    Took car for tunning with exhaust analyser.they did tappets, cleaned checked plugs.but said exhaust giving incorrect values still, need to open carb n put some carb kit(which i skipped due to time)
    Life is short and very unpredictable just like a Quarter mile .....

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