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Thread: Nissan B14 2.0D

  1. #1
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    Default Nissan B14 2.0D

    Hey there guys. Need your precious advice. I have been looking for sunny 2000-2002 1.4 EGI petrol version. However, I have noticed that most of the cars available for sale are 2.0L diesel versions. I never had a diesel car so if i go for one, there are few questions in my mind.

    Are diesel cars economical in fuel consumption?
    What is the overall maintenance cost as compared to petrol ones?
    Are diesel cars a good buy for long-term home use if in good condition?
    What to check in a diesel car when inspecting for a possible buying?

    Any other feedback that you guys wanna give in this respect. Also, please let me know about the repute of Nissan Diesel cars. Last but not least, if any one is willing to sale or come across any sunny of above model available for sale, please do let me know on my cell number.

    Your feedback for above will be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Cheers

    @mods: I am sorry if I have posted in wrong section. Please redirect my thread to appropriate place and let me know. Thanks.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    the engine is turned backwards to verify the gauge stops with preload - and then rotated to zero - this ensures the plunger of the gauge is in positive contact with the pump rotor plunger.

    the manual also speaks of the same procedure - just with different words.
    hELLO AGAIN!
    iNDEED YOU ARE RIGHT AND i MADE IT. THERE ARE STILL 2 QUESTION FOR YOU!
    THERE ARE 2 MODELS OF CD20 ENGINE. ONE WITH EGR , ONE WITHOUT.
    FOR THE ONE WITH EGR THE MANUAL IS VERY CLEAR AND I MANAGED TO SET HTE INJECTION POINT.
    FOR THE ONE WITHOUT EGR THE GUIDING POINT FIXED ON THE ENGINE BLOCK IS LOWER THAN FOR THE ENGINE WITH EGR.. I DON'T KNOW IF I'M VERY CLEAR AND PLEASE EXCUSE MY ENGLISH . SO YOU HAVE TO ALLIGN THE SIGN FROM THE CRANK PULLEY TO THE SIGN (FIX) ON THE ENGINE BLOCK. THIS SIGN FIXED ON THE ENGINE BLOCK IS IN ANOTHER POSITION (LOWER) THAN DESCRIBED IN MANUAL. CAN I APPLY THE SAME POCEDURE?

    AND THE SECOND QUESTION:
    MY INJECTORS HAVE THE BREAKING POINT AT 110 BAR. I WENT TO A SPECIALIST AND HE SAID HE CANNOT MAKE ANYTHING THAN CHANGE THE NOZZLE AND THAT WILL INCREASE THE BREAKING POINT WITH 10-15 BAR .
    DO I HAVE NOW TO MODIFY MY ADVANCE? IS MY ADVANCE BIGGER BECAUSE THE INJECTORS OPEN EARLIER?
    THANKS A LOT!
    BEST REGARDS.

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    the same procedure applies - the TDC mark is after all TDC1.

    New injector tips usually result in a raise of 5~10 bar break pressure - this causes the timing to act slightly "retard" as the injectors open later (the rotor plunger in the injector has to overcome 5~10 more bar of pressure to deliver fuel)

    They will settle down in about 1000 kms and the diesel sound will be normalised again.

    btw - your specialist lacks the shims that are used to adjust the break pressure in the injectors that is why he is denying to adjust them.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

  4. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    the same procedure applies - the TDC mark is after all TDC1.

    New injector tips usually result in a raise of 5~10 bar break pressure - this causes the timing to act slightly "retard" as the injectors open later (the rotor plunger in the injector has to overcome 5~10 more bar of pressure to deliver fuel)

    They will settle down in about 1000 kms and the diesel sound will be normalised again.

    btw - your specialist lacks the shims that are used to adjust the break pressure in the injectors that is why he is denying to adjust them.
    I will attach some photos with these situations so we'll know for sure the same procedure applies. But why the guys from Nissan made two constructive versions? Have you seen the second version?

    In case I cannot find someone to fix my injectors , should I turm my injection advance to 0.79 or less? Everyone is telling me that thenew nozzle set (Ruville) have not he same quality as original Bosch. I cannot find here in Romania original Nissan nozzle set....
    Hope I don't bother you with my questions.
    Thanks a lot!

  5. #384
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    Just an update. I took the car for long drive after quite some time to Sukkur and back to karachi. Consumed 21L diesel on journey back to Karachi its 480KM approx and avg returned was around 22.85KM/L. Engine was rock solid, very very good acceleration, no stalling whatsoever, very responsive on nooriabad road (its a slight bit of hilly). After engine change, I have had a lot of troubles as i could not find DBW accelerator, dash wiring and ECU of new engine so had to make it run on manual setup. Spent a lot of time on making manual pump work with the engine.

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    Great avg. (Only expect from a Nissan...!!!)

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    An issue. The engine refuses to keep alive in morning start-up. I have to press the acceleration while cranking. Engine starts at half self but dies immediately if accelerator is not pressed. Requires only 2-3 seconds of accelerator and then resumes normal idling. Pls advise.

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    Not expert of anything . Auto choke is there and working???

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    unfortunately if it is CSD you are talking about, its dead.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani80pk View Post
    An issue. The engine refuses to keep alive in morning start-up. I have to press the acceleration while cranking. Engine starts at half self but dies immediately if accelerator is not pressed. Requires only 2-3 seconds of accelerator and then resumes normal idling. Pls advise.

    Your fuel system has air leaks in it, check for rotten pipes and please use proper band type clamps (go to a shop that service mercedes benz etc and ask for mercedes walay jubilee clip) - they are very good for fuel pipes. Dont use cheap rubber pipes, buy genuine sumitomo pipes.

    The other reason the engine stalls after start is lack of timing precision. You need that CSD working and make sure 200% that the injectors open at the same pressures all around and that the pump delivery valves are not weak.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Your fuel system has air leaks in it, check for rotten pipes and please use proper band type clamps (go to a shop that service mercedes benz etc and ask for mercedes walay jubilee clip) - they are very good for fuel pipes. Dont use cheap rubber pipes, buy genuine sumitomo pipes.

    The other reason the engine stalls after start is lack of timing precision. You need that CSD working and make sure 200% that the injectors open at the same pressures all around and that the pump delivery valves are not weak.
    Thanks. Fuel system doesn't seem to have leaks. I have already checked it multiple times. For CSD, I have followed your every advice for its cleaning but to no avail. I will get the injectors checked and will let you know. Regards

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    Alright. Checked fuel injector delivery lines from pump and one of them was not properly tightened. Fixed it and problem resolved. No white smoke and missing today morning. Thanks @Xulfiqar Bhai. Regards

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    So guys. I am thinking about changing car and have put my weight to yet another nissan sunny diesel I have seen via surfing internet. It is indian variant of Nissan Sunny Diesel with K9Kdci engine. My question is will it be a viable decision to buy a car that seem non-existent here and do I be able to take care of K9Kdci here in Pakistan. Will make my mind after getting valuable input from fellow pakwheelers. Regards,

    Cheers

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    Hello again!
    Manual says the correct timing is between 0.79 -0.85 mm
    Let's say I checked my timing and now it's 0.93 mm .It/s retarded or advanced.
    I have this doubt because of the ATDC timing .
    On VW is BTDC 2-3 grades and things are easier.
    Thank you.
    Best regards.

    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    the 25 degree movement will almost make the gauge stop, at this point the gauge face is aligned to zero. Make sure you disable the cold start device also.

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    Hi everyone!
    Please someone help me with one problem. I found out that there are 2 types of cd20 engine on Nissan. One wiht egr and one without. The problem is that on the one without egr if you want to set the pump timing you'll see that the injection timing mark is lower that on the engine with egr. So the engine with egr has this guiding sign as the book says but the one without egr has this mark on lower position. Can I apply the same procedure for setting the pump timing?

    I attached to this post 3 photos shown my question.
    If someone met this situation please answer me.
    Best regards!
    Attached Images Attached Images    

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    more then 90% of BLOWN HEAD GASKETS are caused due

    to leakage of water throw radiator or hose pipes .

    on board temperature gauge can not show any sign of

    water loss . with this ADD-ON we can take control

    on this situation .

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    Nissan B14 20D -1542079

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    Question Purchased a B14

    Salam, I recently purchased my first diesel B14 (1998) (from Pakwheels) from here in Karachi. After spending around 50K (not small amount) I recently came across this thread and realize real problems are still there like getting timing right, fans to auto (glow plugs doing ~3 seconds), thermostat check (needle doesn't start in middle), head bolts (older ones were repaired after head phase) etc.

    My recent average is of around 9 km/liter, although starts up fine but car lacks power -- engine starts complaining when even going up to 80km/h in 4th gear. Basically just doesn't feel right and now after reading this thread I now understand, it's the timing.

    I really want to save this car from further engine damage, and also my wallet so would appreciate someone who could please point me to a reliable, honest mechanic/shop in Karachi who could at least fix my timing, and perhaps wiring too.

    PS:

    1. I checked Diesel Power Systems website, looks like they're no longer in business.
    2. @Dani80pk bro if your mechanic has done this then I'll appreciate if you could PM me his contact #
    3. My own mechanic is AFAIK honest but he doesn't seem to be knowledgable here

    Thanks!
    This is as much of a test for me as it's for them

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lonely_Puma View Post
    Salam, I recently purchased my first diesel B14 (1998) (from Pakwheels) from here in Karachi. After spending around 50K (not small amount) I recently came across this thread and realize real problems are still there like getting timing right, fans to auto (glow plugs doing ~3 seconds), thermostat check (needle doesn't start in middle), head bolts (older ones were repaired after head phase) etc.

    My recent average is of around 9 km/liter, although starts up fine but car lacks power -- engine starts complaining when even going up to 80km/h in 4th gear. Basically just doesn't feel right and now after reading this thread I now understand, it's the timing.

    I really want to save this car from further engine damage, and also my wallet so would appreciate someone who could please point me to a reliable, honest mechanic/shop in Karachi who could at least fix my timing, and perhaps wiring too.

    PS:

    1. I checked Diesel Power Systems website, looks like they're no longer in business.
    2. @Dani80pk bro if your mechanic has done this then I'll appreciate if you could PM me his contact #
    3. My own mechanic is AFAIK honest but he doesn't seem to be knowledgable here

    Thanks!
    cold starting device is it stuck and diesel pump set to advance your car start on half self with almost dead engine is engine e very noisy?
    Get valve clearances inspected

  20. #399
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    Why diesel ? Go for engine swap and put the petrol engine in your car and forget about problems.

    Sent from my QMobile i12 using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by qamarahmad.awan View Post
    Why diesel ? Go for engine swap and put the petrol engine in your car and forget about problems.

    Sent from my QMobile i12 using Tapatalk
    Diesel is far better than petrol if maintained

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