Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

[smijaz]

the air cleaner is clean xulifiqar cuz wen it was doin this goofy things,i first chkd the air fikter..its less than one month used n is clean as new..i mean almost new!

I have to agree with Xulfiqar, as the only possible variable is the air which is either increasing or decreasing so disturbing air/CNG mixture. The air filter and air cleaner seals are the only possibility.

[smijaz]

@cracked

Bro also share name and address of a reliable carburetor service guy in RWP/ISB for @Ahmadfb

[cracked]

oke toke..ill chk the air thingy tomorrow..
i get all my work of car from same guy,havent really tried anyone else..he is good in doin wat he do!he knws khyber really really well..
his name is faisal..0321-5322468
tell him k usman or fyq ny btaya tha ap ka..he is young guy of around 30...
fyq is who told me about him..faisal is in chah sultan..baki adress wo khud fone py pta kr lo cuz mjy pta nae exact wats tht location is called..i just knw the spot!

[speedster_101]

I have tuned my car 2 or 3 times on petrol in a period of 7,8 months. Mechanic serviced the whole carburetor, I bought the carburetor kit and he also used some parts from it like jets etc. But after sometime my car again start giving me problems. Its gives jerks in slow speed and the engine switches off in idle. What should I do? A person was telling me to add fuel additive to petrol and it will solve idling issues.

[smijaz]

I have tuned my car 2 or 3 times on petrol in a period of 7,8 months. Mechanic serviced the whole carburetor, I bought the carburetor kit and he also used some parts from it like jets etc. But after sometime my car again start giving me problems. Its gives jerks in slow speed and the engine switches off in idle. What should I do? A person was telling me to add fuel additive to petrol and it will solve idling issues.

Get a good fuel filter and a bottle of carb cleaner. Follow the instructions on the can of carb cleaner. Use at least half can. it will be fine.

The fuel additive is a good idea , i tried it once and it did work.

[speedster_101]

Get a good fuel filter and a bottle of carb cleaner. Follow the instructions on the can of carb cleaner. Use at least half can. it will be fine.

The fuel additive is a good idea , i tried it once and it did work.

Ok, I will try it. I have serviced my fuel tank last month. There were no signs of rust. I also changed the fuel filter at that time.

[Xulfiqar]

but i had this problem,wen the car was moving,it was all stable n temp needle was on good position whr auto fans kicks in,but for lyk 1 hours continous driving,wen i stopped,the car was takin jerks lyk was tryin to go off,so i got out n adjusted the screw of cng kit n it became stable...then it was good ,now i strt the car in morning n then in morning the car again was jerkin so i again adjusted the screw n all got well,n then in after noon wen sun was out,it again takes jerks..
wats the prob??
i mean kbi ye jerks nae laiti,n then on next day on very settings,it take jerks?
wats fishy herE??

Me thinks the CNG regulator/kit is freezing up, connect the coolant lines and do another run like that. (when a gas flows from high to low pressure it will collect energy (meaning freezing the item its flowing through - thats how A/C works)

just recalled a similar incident like this when I did an LPG conversion to a mercedes 230E (W124)

[cracked]

@xulifiqar
how to connect the coolant lines to the cng kit??
ive heard the company fitted cng kits r lyk this,mean they have a pipe comin from coolant to kkep it from freezing..but as khyber never did come with factory fitted kits,so how cud this b done?

[speedster_101]

Can anyone please recommend me a good carb cleaner and petrol additive...

[Xulfiqar]

you can ask at a cng installation place for the pipe connections that come in the regulator box package or you would need to get a radiator shop make them for you from brass pipes. use the heater pipes to connect them - cut the pipes at a convenient location put on fittings tighten with clips - top up coolant and you'll be good - just be sure that your regulator is not very absurdly high in the engine bay (air trapped in water) and that you actually connect one push and one return line - water (coolant) should be able to flow through the regulator

thats why pak suzuki connect the lines (to prevent freezing up the regulator)

[smijaz]

AOA fellow members

This time I am in trouble,

Car is not starting. Reason being No current from the coil to plugs.
Positive wire to distributor (Igniter) was broke, when i connected the two broken ends the car started, so to give it a secure connection , I opened up the dist. and soldered it to its terminal on the igniter instead of twisting & taping it. After that the car refused to start. No current from ignition coil to plugs.

Checked the following according to service manual

Ignition Switch - OK
Ignition Fuse - Ok
Current to the Coil - Ok
Coil - OK
Main cable (coil to distributor) - OK
Connections/wires of Igniter - Ok
Signal Generator - Ok
Rotor air gap (0.2mm) - OK
Rotor - OK
Igniter - Not checked

One more thing when I was testing , the negitive probe of my voltmeter was on the negitive terminal of the battery and with car switch on (engine OFF) I got 13V reading on the +ve terminal of the coil and same 13V on the negative terminal of the Coil, WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?

HELP ME OUT HERE GUYS

[ahsanonline]

AOA fellow members

This time I am in trouble,

Car is not starting. Reason being No current from the coil to plugs.
Positive wire to distributor (Igniter) was broke, when i connected the two broken ends the car started, so to give it a secure connection , I opened up the dist. and soldered it to its terminal on the igniter instead of twisting & taping it. After that the car refused to start. No current from ignition coil to plugs.

Checked the following according to service manual

Ignition Switch - OK
Ignition Fuse - Ok
Current to the Coil - Ok
Coil - OK
Main cable (coil to distributor) - OK
Connections/wires of Igniter - Ok
Signal Generator - Ok
Rotor air gap (0.2mm) - OK
Rotor - OK
Igniter - Not checked

One more thing when I was testing , the negitive probe of my voltmeter was on the negitive terminal of the battery and with car switch on (engine OFF) I got 13V reading on the +ve terminal of the coil and same 13V on the negative terminal of the Coil, WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?

HELP ME OUT HERE GUYS

this means that ur ignitor is working, but not switching the negative terminal voltage to zero when u turn the key, i.e. not working completely....

you might have fried the ignitor internal circuitry while soldering; yad karein, did u keep the soldering iron on it for long? did the ignitor terminal get excessively hot while soldering the wire?

[smijaz]

this means that ur ignitor is working, but not switching the negative terminal voltage to zero when u turn the key, i.e. not working completely....

you might have fried the ignitor internal circuitry while soldering; yad karein, did u keep the soldering iron on it for long? did the ignitor terminal get excessively hot while soldering the wire?

Oooops, I might have done this in order to clean the old connection on the terminal.

Guilty as charged

So I have deep fried my igniter now what are my options?

Is igniter available individually in the market , if yes for how much?
or I have to get the complete distributor :o

(Thank you @ahsanonline )

[ahsanonline]

ignitors are usually available as such. dont know about khyber's ignitor coz i have indus corolla so......

i think for khyber, new ignitor mil hi jae ga....stuff for suzuki can be obtained new, i can buy new stuff for my 20+yrs old FX but not for my 15yr old corolla!! lol

[speedster_101]

Oooops, I might have done this in order to clean the old connection on the terminal.

Guilty as charged

So I have deep fried my igniter now what are my options?

Is igniter available individually in the market , if yes for how much?
or I have to get the complete distributor :o

(Thank you @ahsanonline )

See the following post of mine. May be it can help you.

https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/wheels-fan-clubs/47455-khyber-fan-club-67#post2512605

[smijaz]

See the following post of mine. May be it can help you.

https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/wheels-fan-clubs/47455-khyber-fan-club-67#post2512605

Thanks, For Rs. 1300 what you got , only the igniter and signal generator as shown in the picture OR the complete distributor with every thing.

Was it same with the kabli one ?

[fas133]

@Smijaz
Check this.You have AVO Meter so you could verify the operation of igniter and generator of the distributor.
https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/performance-modification-tune-up-preventive-maintenance/137308-self-tunning-khyber-g-10-plugs-valve-clearance-spark-gap-etc-32#post2500814
@All
I need color codes of the wires of VSV(Vacuum Switched Valve) operating the Idle Up Diaphragm and AC Idle Up Diaphragm.Thanks in advance.

[fas133]

I have found this while searching for the Vacuum Connections of Aisin Carburettor.

[smijaz]

@Smijaz
Check this.You have AVO Meter so you could verify the operation of igniter and generator of the distributor.
https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/performance-modification-tune-up-preventive-maintenance/137308-self-tunning-khyber-g-10-plugs-valve-clearance-spark-gap-etc-32#post2500814
@All
I need color codes of the wires of VSV(Vacuum Switched Valve) operating the Idle Up Diaphragm and AC Idle Up Diaphragm.Thanks in advance.

Checked the ignitor according to the method mentioned in your post and the bulb didnt lit up, means its gone.
Also the resistance of the signal generator was 240 ohms which is out of the normal range i.e 130-190 ohms.

regarding your query for the wire color code

Electrical Load Idle Up = Black & Brown with white line

AC Idle up = Light Green & Dark green with red line

[fas133]

Checked the ignitor according to the method mentioned in your post and the bulb didnt lit up, means its gone.
Also the resistance of the signal generator was 240 ohms which is out of the normal range i.e 130-190 ohms.

regarding your query for the wire color code

Electrical Load Idle Up = Black & Brown with white line

AC Idle up = Light Green & Dark green with red line

Sorry for the igniter and bundle of thanks for the color codes.