the fuel pump is wired from the circuit opening relay - if you dont have it go buy one with 5 pins along with its holder plug - install it inside the car next to the ECU and main relay
The pins in the relay are
E01 = earth
IGN = 12V + from main relay
STA = starting signal from key (branched to ECU too)
FC = fuel cut pin in ECU
FP = Fuel pump and pin FP in diagnosis box
The way the fuel pump is wired is (its grounded directly to the frame) and gets 12V+ once you crank the engine to start and then latches on permanently to 12V+ when the ECU is recieving NE (crank sensor) signals from the distributor - if you crash the car - the engine stops and the fuel pump also stops (the reason toyota also installed the FP point in the diagnosis box was to check for fuel pump voltage and also to prime the system (if empty) before starting - otherwise it becomes super super hard to start as you dont have fuel in the fuel rail.
The A/C is wired as
AC1 = AC switch + input going to compressor relay
ACT = A/C compressor rpm sensor, if you dont have an A/C amplifier in your car use the IGF wire through a relay to bridge to ECU once you have A/C compressor operation - it ensures you have optimum timing advance with A/C on - it tells the ecu that the compressor clutch is actually engaged
The idle up valve is called the ISC pin connected with 2 fat vacuum pipes and has 2 wires in it - one 12V + switch and the other ISC which comes from the ECU raising rpms to normal once the compressor kicks in
for the love of God please use a 15A or 20A fuse for the whole EFI circuit including fuel pump (check all resistances to measure amp load) - it saves many things from fire - if you short a positive anywhere the fuse will blow - no fuse = fire (yaaaay - taaliyan)
btw the diagram shown is for 4AFE - because it also shows a cam position sensor (G1 pin) - the 5AFE just uses a crank sensor and no cam sensor - to verify - the distributor would have 2 plugs one with 2 pins - thats for the coil (positive and negative-rpm trigger) and one with 4 wires, NE, NE- IGT and IGF, no G- sensor
This is just the tip of the iceberg when I wire up a car - and all cars that I have wired up start on first key with no check light