1965 Volkswagen Type-1 (Beetle) D.I.Y. Project (o\_!_/o)

[reezvaan]

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[reezvaan]

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[reezvaan]

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[nmshaikh]

It IS a Pearl white car...no painter would go thru the trouble of reaching in the crevices to change the colour.

[reezvaan]

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[nmshaikh]

you can use a dry, old tooth brush to sweep the dried durt in the corners, then use the pointed attachment of your vacuum cleaner to clean the dislodged, scraped dust / dirt. Use a wet brush dipped in soapy water on the second go to fine clean the area. Dry with a cloth.

[reezvaan]

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[reezvaan]

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[reezvaan]

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[reezvaan]

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[nmshaikh]

This is minor damage and expected. I am sure by the time you are thru with it, the only memories of its past would be these pictures.

[reezvaan]

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[reezvaan]

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[reezvaan]

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[nmshaikh]

'Hot' is a relative term. Some people consider the engine compartment and the components hot by feeling the deck lid; others consider it hot if they cannot pull out the dipstick out with their bare hands. It all depends on the distance travelled, temperature outside and of course the general sealing of the engine bay. While the coil may be hot for a number of reasons but is it troublesome hot? I don't think so because it ran fine from <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" /><st1:City><st1:place>Islamabad</st1:place></st1:City> to <st1:City><st1:place>Multan</st1:place></st1:City> on the motorway and if it was troublesome hot the engine would have stalled and only started when the coil cooled off and would have stalled again after running for some distance.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comI do however see some trouble spots that need to be addressed ASAP.<o:p></o:p>
The engine bay should be sealed properly and the engine seal that runs around the engine does the job. The second piece of seal that is the bell housing seal completes the sealing to prevent any hot air making its way back into the engine compartment.<o:p></o:p>
The idea behind the sealing is that even on a hot summer day, even in <st1:City><st1:place>Multan</st1:place></st1:City>, the air outside would be cooler than the temperature of the engine. The fan pulls the air in thru the air intakes below the rear window and throws it over the cylinder fins to cool them. If the engine bay is not sealed properly the fan pulls the air easily from the lower part - air that has come in contact with the hot engine itself and is significantly hotter than the air that would have been blown in thru the air intakes. This virtually 'cooks' the engine as it tries to cool itself with hot air.<o:p></o:p>
The hole that you see in the breast plate is another easy way for hot air to enter the engine compartment and should be plugged. You can use a cheap rubber part the kind used in the cars under the spare wheel in Japanese cars to drain water. (the rubber gasket sellers would have plenty of those and you can easily find the right size) Another way would be to use the grease cap off the front wheel which would be about the same size. The best way is to restore the function of this opening and that is to pull hot air in to the carburetor thru the air cleaner for a warmer air fuel mixture promoting better burning and reduce icing. <o:p></o:p>
The spring that you mention is indeed the wrong one. I have sent some NOS carb springs so add that to your list when you visit Romano. There may an attachment missing in your carb where the upper end of the spring latches on to...can't tell from the picture. <o:p></o:p>
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<o:p></o:p>

[reezvaan]

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[reezvaan]

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[reezvaan]

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[nmshaikh]

Some Slow progress on the two Panels; Front Wall & Front Hood:

is that a 1989 Landcruiser in the back ground?

[AsadIshaque]

'Hot' is a relative term. Some people consider the engine compartment and the components hot by feeling the deck lid; others consider it hot if they cannot pull out the dipstick out with their bare hands. It all depends on the distance travelled, temperature outside and of course the general sealing of the engine bay. While the coil may be hot for a number of reasons but is it troublesome hot? I don't think so because it ran fine from ffice:smarttags" /><st1:city><st1:place>Islamabad</st1:place></st1:city> to <st1:city><st1:place>Multan</st1:place></st1:city> on the motorway and if it was troublesome hot the engine would have stalled and only started when the coil cooled off and would have stalled again after running for some distance.<o:p></o:p>
I do however see some trouble spots that need to be addressed ASAP.<o:p></o:p>
The engine bay should be sealed properly and the engine seal that runs around the engine does the job. The second piece of seal that is the bell housing seal completes the sealing to prevent any hot air making its way back into the engine compartment.<o:p></o:p>
The idea behind the sealing is that even on a hot summer day, even in <st1:city><st1:place>Multan</st1:place></st1:city>, the air outside would be cooler than the temperature of the engine. The fan pulls the air in thru the air intakes below the rear window and throws it over the cylinder fins to cool them. If the engine bay is not sealed properly the fan pulls the air easily from the lower part - air that has come in contact with the hot engine itself and is significantly hotter than the air that would have been blown in thru the air intakes. This virtually 'cooks' the engine as it tries to cool itself with hot air.<o:p></o:p>
The hole that you see in the breast plate is another easy way for hot air to enter the engine compartment and should be plugged. You can use a cheap rubber part the kind used in the cars under the spare wheel in Japanese cars to drain water. (the rubber gasket sellers would have plenty of those and you can easily find the right size) Another way would be to use the grease cap off the front wheel which would be about the same size. The best way is to restore the function of this opening and that is to pull hot air in to the carburetor thru the air cleaner for a warmer air fuel mixture promoting better burning and reduce icing. <o:p></o:p>
The spring that you mention is indeed the wrong one. I have sent some NOS carb springs so add that to your list when you visit Romano. There may an attachment missing in your carb where the upper end of the spring latches on to...can't tell from the picture. <o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>

Explained really well by Nasir bhai. I agree with all his observations and suggestions.


The warm air pre heater pipe goes from the LHS heater box (theres a small pipe connector on the front side) all the way upto the air cleaner. Warm air is drawn via this route when the air cleaner flap is set to the 'winter' position.


 Some later model engines had a different pickup for the warm air.


 You are probably missing a small metal strip on the carb. A pic from a clearer angle would enable us to point to the exact spot. I cant find a decent picture to post here to let you know what you're missing.


 BTW, I see one more thing wrong on your engine. The location of the fuel filter. It must always be *before* the fuel pump which itself is sensitive to dirt, grit and crap ruining it. More importantly, the brass pipe where the rubber fuel pipe fits on the carb is a press fit (not threaded in) which can come loose with the weight of the fuel filter and extra length of pipe.


 Locate the fuel filter out of the engine bay ideally, away from hot surfaces. It would be difficult to access but this is a major prevention against engine fires.