1965 Volkswagen Type-1 (Beetle) D.I.Y. Project (o\_!_/o)

[nmshaikh]

A show car is one that is put together with all the right stuff and hardly ever used..only shown. I am not in favour of doing all the hard work and then not enjoying it. However there is a degree of satisfaction to know that you are using the right stuff the car would have come with when new - the right length, the right thread. Surely you can put a local nut or bolt (and in the process ruin the threads..wait..you can always put a "washal' if its not the right size or a slip nut to correct the length but correct hardware if it is just degreased and cleaned prior to use can be quite pleasing especially if you do it yourself. The Cad plating is an overkill and I only did that for one of my restorations. All the rest have received just the original German nuts and bolts, pre cleaned and degreased.

[reezvaan]

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[nmshaikh]

Almost every kabaria and VW mechanic has tins full of these. You just have to be willing to do the 'chanti' yourself or pay him extra to make a set fro you. The main groups are the 13 mm that are used to tighten the fenders and the smaller 10mm ones that hold the door mechanism. The 17 mm nuts hold the engine and the two D bolts that go on top are of different length but again use 17 mm nuts. The smaller screws that fasten the engine tin can also be found or you can use the 10 mm bolts for their ease of using a socket. Most usually have the name KAMAX on the head.

[reezvaan]

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[nmshaikh]

You may find at least two other makes which were original hardware suppliers to VW. One was Verbus and the other I can't remember. Most would be shot due to abuse but if you are patient you can collect a set. An easier way would be to find a car about to be wrecked. Chances are it would have at least 50% of the original hardware of which a good percentage be re-usable. I am sure most of the hardware on your car would be original especially the pan to body bolts which are pointed tipped. Looking under the fenders you can spot the number of bolts you need to replace with originals so that makes it easier to narrow down the number you would be looking for (IF you go down that route and I have a feeling you would)

[reezvaan]

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[reezvaan]

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[reezvaan]

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[reezvaan]

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[Xulfiqar]

speaking of nuts and bolts - the bolts and screw market on Lawrence road in Karachi is a mine for such items, you surely can find all sorts of quality german hardware, its just that you need to know the dia, length, thread pitch and bolt head, a day to spare and a good set of gloves or you would have the most greasiest hands on earth

[reezvaan]

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[reezvaan]

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[reezvaan]

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[reezvaan]

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[reezvaan]

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[reezvaan]

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[Xulfiqar]

when you assemble the door cards - be sure to put a plastic sheet between the door card and door - paste the plastic sheet to the metal with some black RTV silicone or the sticky rubber car A/C guys use to seal the firewall holes.

It will prevent foggy windows, the stench of wet door cards and keep the door card dry and looking pretty

[Xulfiqar]

for the brushes - go to a mercedes benz shop - MB have inner channel brushes for the 115 and 116 models - they fit like a glove and look about 80& the same as VW part

[nmshaikh]

Don't forget to clean all debris, dirt and accumulated grime in the inside bottom of the door. You can even use a garden hose to clean out and ensure that the water runs free thru the drain slot. Most doors rust at the bottom as the drain holes are clogged.

On a side note, why would you want to add jute cut-outs? Jute being a fiber is likely to absorb water and stay wet longer promoting rust. I agree with Zulfiqar (with an X) re. the plastic sheet behind the door panel. It extends the life of the door panel. Somebody should look into producing fibre glass panels made to size with proper holes and cut outs...to use in place of regular hard board...

[Xulfiqar]

Don't forget to clean all debris, dirt and accumulated grime in the inside bottom of the door. You can even use a garden hose to clean out and ensure that the water runs free thru the drain slot. Most doors rust at the bottom as the drain holes are clogged.

On a side note, why would you want to add jute cut-outs? Jute being a fiber is likely to absorb water and stay wet longer promoting rust. I agree with Zulfiqar (with an X) re. the plastic sheet behind the door panel. It extends the life of the door panel. Somebody should look into producing fibre glass panels made to size with proper holes and cut outs...to use in place of regular hard board...

thats the usual first item I attack when me/my freinds buy a car - an old pal had bought a LHD 300E in Karachi - and guess what the first job on it was, cleaning up the drains on the entire car - about 12 of its 26 (I think) drains were clogged with dirt.