2nd Road Trip from Islamabad to Ghizer Valley: September 9-16, 2017:
Islamabad - Hassanabdal – Mansehra – Balakot – Naran – Babusar Top – Chilas – Gilgit – Gahkuch – Gupis – Phander - Yasin
1. Preface
During my last trip to Shandur via the same route in October 2016, when I was accompanied by an old buddy, I had already decided to ply the same wonderful route with my family. Unfortunately (or, may be, it was destined to be like this) all three of my kids could not make themselves available for the trip. Therefore, there left only the parents, I and my wife. I was already determined to take the plunge and had set my Prado 96 for the journey so both of us went straight into the adventure. But before narrating this 2nd Trip, just to recall, I reproduce a little from the last (October 15-20, 2016) trip write-up along with a pic at Shandur Top.
A pic from the 1st trip at 12200 feet high Shandur Top on Oct18, 2016
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2. Preparations
As I was in the program lot earlier, so, I carried out several improvements in my ride. New tires, new batteries, new wirings, new dash-board computer, new turbo-charger, and, new fuel injection pump. The house-hold preparations included water-gallons, gas-filling in stove, some packed “salans”, emergency light, torch, basic tools, and a number of items of daily use and consumption. I have made a long check-list of trip items that helps me to pack-up all necessary items.
Travel Check List
Collecting the "Zaad-e-Safar"
Setting the luggage in the ride
Ready for departure: Saturday, September 9, 2017, 07:20 am, Multi-gardens, Islamabad
3. Summary
3.1. 8-days trip started from Multi-gardens, B-17, Islamabad at 07;20 am on Saturday, 09-09-2017 and ended back at B-17 on Saturday, 16-09-2017 at 05:00 pm
3.2. There were 7 nights in the trip, first at Naran, 2nd-5th at Gupis and 6th -7th at Batakundi
3.3. Total distance travelled from home to back- home was 1418 kilometers, which I drove myself, and, the total diesel consumed was 227 liters, giving an overall average of 6.25 km/liter (or Rs. 12.60/km).
3.4. The amount consumed on diesel was Rs.18000 approx. and that consumed on room-rent, food and miscellaneous necessities was Rs.36000 approx. Thus the total expenditure on this 2-persons 8-days trip was Rs.54000/-
3.5. The average room rent of the trip was Rs.3000 per night and the average cost of each meal for two persons was Rs.450/- and the overall average of the trip was Rs.7000 per day.
3.6. The road from Islamabad to Phander is quite good, in Pakistani sense. There are only two exceptions:1, the 55 km patch between Chilas and Raikot Bridge is quite bad; 2, the 78 km patch between Raikot Bridge and Gilgit is excellent.
4. The Journey
4.1. On Saturday, 9th September, we started the journey at 07:20 am from home in Multi-gardens, B-17, Islamabad, after setting the trip-meter to zero. After 22 km, at 07:45 am, via G.T. road (N-5) we were at Hassan Abdal.
4.2. At Hassanabdal, we left GT road and turned to Abbotabad/ Mansehra on KKH (N-35). After 90 km, at 09:00 am, we were in Abbotabad. Then after 117 km, at 09:45 am, circling the Mansehra city, we were on Mansehra bypass that leads to Balakot.
4.3. On KKH, the turn to Balakot bypass is a few km before the main Mansehra city so one must be attentive and careful not to miss the turning. There is a sign-board on the KKH road but very close to turning. Here we left the KKH and turned towards Balakot on Mansehra-Chilas (N-15) road. Just after crossing the Mansehra city on our left, on the way to Balakot, we took a tasty cup of tea at a truck-hotel. At 11:00 am, with trip-meter at 155 km we were in Balakot city. There, I filled the diesel tank and headed towards Naran through N-5.
A scene at Balakot
Approaching Naran
4.4. At 01:30 pm, after about 6 hours and 236 km from Islamabad, we were in Naran. On the way, in addition to tea-stop and diesel-stop, we had a few photo-shots also. We had a plan of one-night stay at Naran and I already had a booking for Faran Hotel, Lake Saif-ul-Muluk road, Naran. After dumping our luggage at the hotel, we spent several hours wandering in Naran, especially in and around PTDC motel where we stayed first time in 1990 on our honey-moon trip. Ironically, the motel looks like same even after 27 years. We had after-noon tea at the motel whereas the lunch, dinner and break-fast were at Faran Hotel. As it was off-season, there was no rush of tourists in Naran. The hotel was nice, the room was nice and the service was nice.
Stay at Naran
A view of Naran-Saiful Muluk Road
Near PTDC Motel Naran
Near PTDC Motel Naran
Near PTDC Motel Naran
4.5. Next day, on Sunday, 10th September, 2017, with trip-meter at 240 km, we left Naran and started our journey at 08:30 am for Gilgit and Ghizer through Babusar Top. At 10:30 am and 306 km reading, after a few photo-shot stops on the way, we were at Babusar Top (13400 feet). There were many tourists, vehicles and tent-restaurants at the top such that the view around was almost restricted unless someone climbs to higher grounds. We already stopped a few hundred feet short of Top where the view around was nice-n-clear. Taking into account our long journey ahead and given the fact that we have already visited the Top a number of times in much open conditions, we didn’t stop at the Top and continued our downward journey to Chilas.
Near Batakundi, Kaghan Valley
Near Jalkhad, Kaghan Valley
Near Jalkhad, Kaghan Valley
Near Jalkhad, Kaghan Valley
Lulusar, Kaghan Valley
Lulusar, Kaghan Valley
Lulusar, Kaghan Valley
Gittidas, Near Babusar Top
Gittidas, Near Babusar Top
Gittidas, Near Babusar Top
4.6. Around 20 km road on both sides of Babusar Top is steep with sharp turns, especially on Chilas side. The drivers from plains must be very very careful on both sides, especially on Chilas side.
Babusar Top
Babusar Top
4.7. There is one on-road “Pakistan” Hotel on Chilas side at about 30-35 minute drive from Babusar Top. You can have journey-break there. Fresh loaf (roti), meals, tea, some snacks, wash-room, and night-stay rooms are available. Although the standard of that hotel is not up to the mark, it is a cost-effective blessing in the area between Burwai (Kaghan side) and Chilas. We stayed at this hotel for 40 minutes, had tea and refreshed ourselves.
Pakistan Hotel on 30-35 minutes from Babusar Top towards Chilas
4.8. Please note that since Mansehra by-pass, we were on N-15 road that runs between Mansehra and Chilas through Kaghan valley and meets KKH at 6 km from Chilas city. The condition of N-5, N-35 and N-15 roads from Islamabad to Chilas is quite good and one can maintain good speed as a whole.
4.9. After our stop at Pakistan Hotel for a journey break of 40 minutes, we continued towards Chilas. On reaching KKH, Chilas city was at 5-6 km on our left while we were to turn right for Raikot Bridge, Gilgit and so on. We turned left to Chilas for Diesel and some advice on side mirror looseness. We reached Chilas city at 12:15 pm with trip-meter at 348 km. The diesel refilling and side-mirror thing took half an hour and then at 12:45 pm we left Chilas, heading for Gilgit.
On KKH, from Chilas onward to Gilgit. Indus River can also be seen
4.10. At 406 km reading (58 km from Chilas) and 02:00 pm, we were at Raikot Bridge. At this bridge, one can get jeeps for Fairy Meadows. There is Shangrila hotel and a few Chhappar hotels at this place. After crossing the bridge, mighty Sindh was on our right, while so far, from Chilas, it was on our left. The road from Chilas to Raikot Bridge is quite bad, rather a nightmare.
4.11. Just before Astore-Turning, short of Thailichi, we had to stop because the temperature gauge went to red hot and the engine check-light turned on. On investigation, it turned out that the engine has lost most of its water through leakage of the radiator cap. After waiting for about 15-20 minutes and with external cooling of radiator with cold water that I had in abundance (30-40 liters), I started the engine again and then slowly slowly refilled the radiator with cold water. Please remember, never open the radiator cap or never add the cold water into radiator when hot or over-heated engine is switched off. One must start it first and then do the needful. This exercise took about 25 minutes. After adding cold water to running over-heated engine, the temperature gauge dropped to normal within a few minutes. And, so, we started our journey again. Astore-turning came at 02:40 pm with trip-meter at 417 km. A few kilometers after Astore-turning came the village of Thailichi.
Excellent Road from Raikot Bridge to Gilgit
A Partial View of Nanga Parbat from KKH
Full View of Nanga Parbat from KKH near Jaglot
4.12. The road from Raikot Bridge to Gilgit (up to Khunjrab Top) is excellent. We reached Gilgit at 480 km and at 03:30 pm (7 hours from Naran: in total 13 hours from Islamabad). Last year (2016), on October 20th, while returning from Gilgit to Islamabad on same Prado, I covered the same distance, in one-go, in exactly 12 hours (7 am to 7 pm), wasting no time in photo shoots etc. For Ghizer from Gilgit, we have to leave KKH and move on to Gilgit-Chitral road (also known as Ghizer Road) along Gilgit River. In Gilgit, we stayed for two hours for wash-room, lunch, prayers, vehicle check-up at Swat Auto Workshop, and then moved on to Ghizer road at 05:30 pm. At this point we had two things to do: top up our Telenor balance as at this road we have only S-COM and Telenor and fill up water gallons with fountain water at Henzel (about 7 km from Gilgit). Both these jobs proved to be time taking. We had to make 5-6 stops each time to get to the proper place. It was frustrating that everyone was holding a cell phone yet no shop keeper had easyload or telenor-card facility. Same was the frustration to locate Henzel water point. It is on the main Ghizer road and last year we stopped there and it is worth stopping. The natural flow is abundant and the water is fresh, cold, clear, sweet and tasty. Yet this time we found the place with difficulty. Everybody pointing to front and saying “bas sath he ha”. But that “sath he ha” came after 5-6 stops. Altogether we must have wasted at least 30-35 minutes in the search.
4.13. While leaving Henzel, it was already dusk and soon the darkness engulfed the landscape. Gahkuch, the capital city of Ghizer district came at pitch darkness at 08:00 pm and at 556 km. Ghizer is the name of the valley and the district but there is no town with this name. From Gilgit to Gahkuch and onward to Gupis, the Gilgit river remains on our right. In the day time, it gives very pleasant look. Clear green water winding through the Ghizer valley and maintaining lush green banks most of the time, while on both sides, stand sky-high barren mountains.
4.14. And, finally, at 09:00 pm we reached Gupis, our destination for today, Sunday, 10th September, 2017. The trip-meter was at 600 km reading and twelve and a half hours had passed since we left Naran. But, wait, our journey for today was not yet over. In front of PSO petrol pump, my friend from Gupis, Mr Saif Ullah Sawan was waiting for us. He was supposed to make our booking at a rest house and arrange dinner for our hungry souls. After greetings, he informed that the dinner was arranged at his residence and I had to follow him as he was leading on a motor-bike along with his cousin Hamza. And, there came the last worrying surprise of the long long day. Reaching his house was a 20-minutes test-drive of first-gear steep climb on a snake-like narrow street mostly barricaded with stone walls on both sides and wide barely to accommodate Prado with just inches of margin on both sides. There were openings and turnings every 15-20 meters. I was praying not to encounter a vehicle descending from the opposite side. Oh God, this was the toughest in all my journey and that also after 12.5 hours of travelling and exhaustion to the core of my body and brain. Yet, his sweet hospitality kept on driving us to his house where the whole family was waiting for us with empty stomachs. Yes, those kind and hospitable souls that are used to have dinner just after sunset were waiting for us, even after 9 pm to have dinner with us. I was taken to the Men’s side where his father, uncle and many other greeted me. My wife was taken to the lady’s side where a gathering of ladies greeted her. I never expected this, such difficult travelling to his house and such a warm and friendly welcome. We were deeply indebted by that sweet family.
4.15. The dinner at Saif’s house was teeming with local and national cuisine, not to mention roasted trout alone. Such a lavish feast was a pleasant surprise for me and my wife. She was served with their ladies where as I was served on men’s side. All the dishes were tasty and abundant in quantity. Food quantity was enough for even 10-12 guests. We were only two and that also with little stomachs. Except trout, that we didn’t feel shy to prefer, we took a little of every dish, but that couldn’t do justice with the scale of the present food. At the end there was a “Qahwa” session. It was a memorable gathering and a remarkable dinner that we won’t forget for rest of our lives. During the dinner, they revealed that they intended us to stay with them during our 4 days of stay and they have already prepared and decorated a room with attached wash-room for the purpose. At this, I and my wife couldn’t say yes by any means. So, we, very humbly requested them not to insist on this because it was simply not possible for us to bother them like this. At the end they reluctantly agreed to our view-point.
4.16. At about 10:50 pm, we paid our ultimate thanks and profound gratitude to the whole family, especially to the ladies who spent their whole day in kitchen, left Saif’s house and started our “test drive” back to main road, praying not to encounter any vehicle from opposite side. Finally, at about 11:20 pm, we were in our room at the rest house after very long traveling day of about 15 hours.
Gupis Rest House: First Morning
Gupis Rest House, Another View
Ready for first afternoon visit of Gupis
Standing close to each other is out of my inexperience in selfie shots
4.17. Monday, 11th September was our third day into the trip and first day in Gupis. We devoted this day to take full rest to shed-off our bone-deep tiredness and to wander in and around Gupis. With a brief in-between wake-up session for Fajar prayer, we slept till 11 am and had brunch at 12 noon. Then we dressed for out-door and walked into bazar and streets to have a feel of the nice, clean, and civilized people and lovely environment. We even visited some shops and chatted with the shopkeepers. Then we mounted our beast and visited PTDC motel, at 8 km, and Khalti-lake at 11 km, from our rest house. It was a refreshing visit. At PTDC motel, I met the friendly staff who hosted us in October-2016 visit. They recognized me and greeted us with the same friendliness and warmth. We happily accepted their offer of tea and crispy chips made from tasty local potatoes. We paid the bill despite they insisted not to take the money. This Motel is located high above the river, on a prime location, over-looking the Gilgit river and the beautiful Khalti-lake. Our next stop was Khalti-lake. A serene, calm and refreshing lake that can be seen and photographed from Motel also. On our way to and back from Khalti-lake, we observed a big gathering at the football ground beside the main road. On enquiring, it was revealed that Ghizer football tournament is being played among various teams of the valley and every day three matches are played. At dusk, we returned to our rest house filled with very positive emotions about the people, the town and the area.
A view of Khalti Lake from PTDC motel Gupis, Gilgit River is seen emerging from the Lake
Khalti Lake, Gupis
At Khalti Lake
At Khalti Lake; Trying to get reasonable selfie shot.
4.18. Tuesday, 12th September: I had three things on mind, see my local friend Nizam, at PTDC Motel Gupis because the day earlier he was not present in Motel, fishing trout with Saif and his cousin Hamza, and, visit Phander and its surroundings. We started our day with passing sometime in the lawn of the rest house and enjoyed a fine pleasant morning. Then refilled the Diesel tank from PSO pump that was just outside the rest house. Then topped up Telenor balance, passed sometime in bazar, checked Saif for that day’s fishing expedition. Also, requested him to arrange walnuts and almonds for me in bulk quantity.
My Dear Friend Saif at PTDC Motel Gupis
4.19. At 11:40 am and 621 km reading, we left Gupis and began our journey, on Gupis-Shandur road, along with Saif & Hamza. We had three tasks for that day that I have narrated earlier. PTDC Motel came within a few minutes. Nizam was there and it was so wonderful to meet him after one year. I introduced him to my wife. He insisted us to visit his home and meet his family but we humbly regretted because of time constraints. We were served tea at the Motel while Nizam brought 2nd angling-rod from his home for our fishing program. Saif already had one angling-rod, so, we had two, each for Saif and Hamza. Then we said goodbye to Nizam and headed onward. Our next stop was PTDC Motel at Phander that is a little short of the town. This Motel, like Gupis, is at height, over-looking Phander-lake and Phander town. Here we stopped for 20 minutes, refreshed ourselves and had some clicks of the lake and the river. Phander has very beautiful landscape that was teeming with wonderful colours of autumn.
On Phander Road
A view of Phander Valley and Gilgit River
Another View of Phander Valley
4.20. Phander is about 55-57 km from Gupis, on Shandur road, that took us about 1-1/2 hour. We crossed Phander at about 1:30 pm and continued on Shandur road, along with river, after some clicks of the town and its landscape. Now, we were looking for a suitable place for fishing at river. After a few kilometers from town, on Shandur road, we found a suitable place. Here the river was wide and divided in two parts, making an island in between. At this point, the time was 1:40 pm and the meter was at 681 km. It was a perfect place to stay, to click, and, to fish. The only problem was the time. We were quite late at this point. Fishing is a day-long activity, while we had only a few hours. Moreover, our intention was just to have fun and not to bag a lot many fish.
A View near Phander. Watch the unusual towering rock on the river bank
My Dear Friend Saif at Gilgit River
4.21. Saif and Hamza went straight to their action while I and my wife set-up the picnic camp. It was a calm and peaceful location with no other soul around. We had fruit n snacks while the tea was postponed for a hotel on our journey back where I wanted to stop not only for the tea but also to get fresh, to offer prayers, to gossip with the local owner and have a look of the rooms. We spent about 3 hours at that picnic spot and enjoyed each second of it. Hamza was successful in catching one trout whereas Saif had to remain empty handed. Still it was a great fun to merge into the environment and watch that angling.
Our stop for picnic and fishing on Shandur road
Our picnic and fishing spot
4.22. At 4:40 pm, as the sun went down and the breeze began to chill, we packed and headed back. Just 2-3 km back from fishing site, we stopped at the road-side hotel as I mentioned earlier. This hotel was a few km from Phander on the Shandur road. We freshened up, offered prayers, had a cup of tea with biscuits, had a look of the rooms and chatted with the owner. I was particularly interested in finding out the possibility of staying their during Shandur Polo Festival and visiting the Shandur top for watching the Polo matches on daily basis. The owner informed me that it was quite possible and he has been arranging the same for 2-3 years. We stayed at that hotel for about 25-30 minutes and then headed straight back. At dusk, 6:15 pm, trip-meter at 746 km, after a wonderful day of entertainment, we were in Gupis. We offered our profound thanks to Saif & Hamza, dropped them at their shop in bazar and landed back to our rest house with tired bodies. We decided to take full sleep with brief break for Fajar prayers and wake up late.
A Selfie in Phander Valley
A beautiful view of Shandur Road in Phander
4.23. On Wednesday, 13th September, I had three part program: one, take rest and enjoy forenoon and early noon at the rest-house lawn; two, visit Yasin valley; three, Watch last football match of that day at the tournament for which I was invited on the day before. After brunch at 11:00 am, we enjoyed very pleasant weather in the rest-house lawn and then packed up and headed for Yasin at about 02:00 pm.
4.24. After a few km on Shandur road from Gupis, the road for Yasin turns right along a tributary of Gilgit River called Yasin River. The valley had a number of pleasant surprises for us. It was much more populated, much wider and much more green/cultivated than we expected. The landscape was even more beautiful as compared to Gupis. The people have fair colors and hospitable and friendly, same as Ghizer valley. I even found a working ATM machine in Yasin and drew some cash for my needs. It is worth mentioning that the ATM machine of Gupis NBP was out of order since Baqr Eid.
Into Yasin Valley
A view of Yasin River
4.25. Thawoos is the main town of Yasin valley. We observed same cleanliness, tranquility, and friendliness here. The valley and the river are named “Yasin” after a small town just before Thawoos. In fact, Yasin and Thawoos are only separated by a bridge on the river-tributory flowing in between. We travelled for almost 1-1/2 hour into the Yasin valley up to a picturesque point along Yasin River, a few km after Thawoos. We were almost 33 km from Gupis (meter at 780 km) and the last point of the valley, Darkut, was still, almost, 26-27 km away. I had to be back to Gupis within good daylight to watch the football match of the tournament and by chance both the teams were from Yasin valley. And, also, we didn’t feel any need to go beyond this point and headed back after 15 minutes of stay.
A view in Yasin Valley
In Yasin, we could see last winter's snow on mountain top
4.26. We were now little hungry and looking for a place to get a cup of tea to company the snacks into our stomachs. A few km into our return journey, we found a road side hotel. Although, the hotel was closed due to off-season, we found the local owner present there. We told him that we have the tea-leaves and the milk. He agreed to make tea for us. We enjoyed the tea with snacks and passed about 40-45 minutes at that place. Then we headed back to Gupis and reached there at 05:15 pm while the trip-meter was at 813 km. I went straight to PSO pump and got the diesel tank refilled as a pre-requisite for tomorrow’s journey back. Then, I dropped my wife at rest-house and headed for football ground to watch the match, where my friend Saif was waiting for me.
A match in the tournament, that ended indispute
4.27. The tournament organizers welcomed us and offered us the seats with best view. It was an interesting match. Both teams had players from teen-age to mid30s. At the end there came a dispute, as the umpire refused to accept a goal scored by one of the teams. That team stopped the game in protest. Even the dispute was a fun to watch. Nobody was shouting, nobody abused the other team. All the arguments were in normal tone and normal language. The umpire and the organizers refused to take back the decision. Finally, the other team was declared successful and the people dispersed peacefully. I could not believe such civilized behavior.
Due to limitations, write-up along with Pix will continue in followings replies
