80 Series Discussions

[tintin1]

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[tintin1]

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[ahmedstudio]

Why are you switching fluids brands and grades so rapidly (if I've followed this thread in correct order)

[ahmedstudio]

Hope the lube change guy filled the oil filter before installing (and didn't put all oil quantity in engine oil fill port only)

[gohar83]

@ahmedstudio
You cannot pre fill an oil filter on 1HD's. Its mounted upside down.

[ahmedstudio]

Sure there are filters mounted horizontally and upside down. Yes it's tricky but possible.

[tintin1]

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[tintin1]

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[tintin1]

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[ahmedstudio]

Your courage for experiment is commendable. However isn't it right choice to avoid unnecessary experimentation?

[tintin1]

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[ahmedstudio]

Prefill/soak to avoid the demage to engine bearings during the low oil pressure period right after changing the oil in case of empty filter installed

PS: perhaps the gain would be tiny for some minds but still a gain, and, first & foremost it's the methodologists' approach, as long as I comprehend

[ahmedstudio]

@gohar83 You can prefill empty oil filter after installing it, sounds crazy, right? Doesn't even sound correct in terms of sequence of events, yes. But it can still be done. After draining the old oil and detaching the old filter, install the empty filter. Fill the required oil quantity via engine oil fill port. Disable ignition system via fuse/relay/wire depending on type of electronics design so that engine would crank but will not start. Crank it for 10-15 seconds, good enough to run the oil pump and filling the filter. That way, let's say for an example that relative to engine displacement engine is running at around 100 RPM during this low oil pressure period instead of say 900 RPM or more. This way you can minimise the first-start demage after the oil change - before the oil filter is filled while it's in installed state, and oil pressure is build. Saves you from avoidable injury.

Soaking or Prefill? Which one is better? Let's hear out the expert @xulfiqar ... I just presented a method for prefilling the oil filters that are installed horizontally/upside-down. It is a known fact that despite of draining there's still tiny-almost-ignorable quantity present in galleys and as soon as cranking starts an oil film is established (it only needs oil and not oil pressure since there are also engines without oil pump). I too am now curious which one is better or if both are equally good enough

Actually Gohar is write. I mean Right

The oil filter of 1HDT is mounted almost upside down. Hence filling it with oil and fixing it back will spill the oil while fixing.

The more important are the following two steps which zulfiqar advised and I am doing them as per my routine since long.

Before fixing new oil filter, fill it will fresh engine oil and drain it after a minute. It will soak the filter media inside.
Apply a thin layer of oil on the rubber O ring of the oil filter before fixing it. Because it helps filter to make a good grip with its seat.

Have posted the photos earlier in this thread.

[ahmedstudio]

Alright, makes sense since you didn't change the grade

[Xulfiqar]

Soaking the filter media is necessary to prevent the media blowing out and making a hole in it rendering the filter useless.

Its basic hydraulic 101.

Because the filter is literally upside down on 1hd, the filter is filled with oil a bit, left alone for a minute and then drained out and immediately installed (with fresh oil on filter seal).

There is a way to uninstall the filter without making a mess, but its laughed on, I learnt this from ancient toyota K engines. You loosen it a bit first, then puncture the can, this drains the filter a bit, then loosen the filter after a minute, it only drips slightly, unlike the riverflow of oil.

I think the 1hdfte oil filter mount had a tray with a hole for this, the person doing oil change then places a flexible plastic piece or funnel to guide the oil into drain pan.

[gohar83]

Yup. The FTE came with this tray. Don't know about the previous models.

[gohar83]

Okay so I'm facing a problem here.
Its a LC100 with 5spd A750f tranny. Five months ago went for a atf change. Went to the parts store and after asking for the vehicles model he gave me TOYOTA T-IV ATF and it was filled correctly according to the procedure mentioned in the fsm.
Now as much as i know, the pre 2003 lc100s came with 4spd a442f transmissions and dexron ii was recommend for them. Post 2003 came with a 5spd a750f tranny and there's a whole next level confusion on internet about the correct fluid type. Some say T-IV is recommend and some say WS is the correct type. But after going thorough dozens of threads here is what i understand.
There are two types of A750f trannys.
1. With a dipstick ( T-IV is recommended )
2. Without a dipstick (WS is recommend )

Mine one is without a dipstick and WS is the correct fluid type for this. Now my question is how can I completely drain out the old atf and fill it with a fresh correct WS type ? Expert opinion needed asap!!!

@Xulfiqar @syncview

[tintin1]

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[tintin1]

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[gohar83]

Sir what you're talking about is a simple drain and fill job.

My problem here is I have mixed two different types of atf.
T-IV and WS. The correct one is the WS.
Now I'm looking for a way to completely drain the whole transmission and fill it with the correct type.