Day2 Naran to Astore (Total 4h 16min 211km on map)
Our planned day 2 timings and schedule of exploration was as under:
Total Travel Distance and Time =211.7km, 8 hours approx.
Details =Moving from naran 7:00am , visiting waterfalls on way to batakundi, then a short stay
at Jalkhad for pics, then to lulusar lake on way for pics, then babusartop for pics. (Naran to babusar top =1 h 29min 65.7km on map ) so roughly we will reach at babusartop in 4 hours = at 11am. And then take pics and move at 11:30am from babusartop to Astore 2h 47min 146km. so roughly we will reach in astore in around 4 and half more hours= 4pm. Now night stay in astore.
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Babusar top gets closed after 4:00pm as someone told. If physical conditions will be good then we shall move further towards rama lake and will do night stay before rama lake near PTDC motel Rama/PWD/forest rest house. Furthermore we may drop visiting these short points like piyala lake and lulusar lake and can shift to Day7. We shall cover piyala lake on return.
However the actual reality on ground is as under:
So here comes the day 2, which was named as the toughest and the most perilous day of our expedition. Why did we term it so? , that will be evident later with the explanations and pictures. So coming back to the story, we had slept with refreshing memories of day 1, recalling the pleasant and picturesque places we visited on bike on day 1, and keeping the tough milestones of day 2 in mind, which we have to cover. The night was assumed long enough so that we could overcome from tiresome traveling of day 1 but then we realized that the night was too short for us as we started hearing the birds chirping outside, so got up and moved out to make ablution for offering prayer. It was quite cold outside. We had already asked the tent person to fill our empty 5 litre cans with clean water at night as the water available near their tents for washrooms was rather mixed with mud. After offering prayer, I started taking pictures, as it was majestic morning view. The clouds appeared as they were kissing the grass and mountains. The visibility was not that much clear due to clouds. The early morning views of such places are splendid, especially the fresh air, which you feel rolling all over, your body, is miraculous. On the other hand, it was cold and I did not find it good to wake up my kid, so let him sleep. After some time we started packing our luggage and then wake up the kid. We were busy in fastening luggage on bike and my wife with kid started taking selfies and photoshoot 
. We observed a strange thing. Some kids from nearby iron tents climbed up to the near mountains and then plucked some plants from there and then took them inside their tent. Do not know what was all that.
Anyways at around 8:00am we left for our first stay place i.e. Jalkhad, where we had planned to have our breakfast. I was very happy to see the jubilance and celebrations of my kid who showed me with his attitude by wearing his helmet that he is ready for next stage We had to fill the petrol tanks again from here so there was petrol available on Naran bypass road, a room written PSO outside and the person was bringing petrol from inside that room. So it costed 540 Rs. for my bike tank to be refilled. Most of the families were surprisingly looking towards my child-wearing helmet and that particular moment we started reciting duas and ayats for him and for our protection. Soon after we were on the main road and on our left side, the killer river kunhar was flowing and on right side lush green trees, and to our front, the beautiful naran mountain, absolutely prodigious beauty of Naran valley. It was really unforgettable and exceptional memories to ride bike with such picturesque views, unexplained in words. To our surprise, we had noticed a truck moving in river kunhar at its bank. That was very astonishing. And it was my duty too to ask my group members to capture the beautiful scenery in cameras for life time. The whole tour, I kept them telling, take the pictures here, take the pictures there etc. etc.
Anyways, we reached batakundi waterfall around 9:10am while capturing the fascinating views on the way. We did a short stay for pictures at batakundi. My other two friends offered dry fruits to us which they took from the road side and my kid enjoyed taking dry fruits. Took a 7up tin and Juice which costed 120Rs. And then started moving ahead towards Jalkhad. We kept doing short stays where a beautiful scenic view come across to us. And to my surprise I observed many hotels and washrooms on the Naran road leading to Jalkhad and further to babusartop which I didn’t notice in past when I was here. In addition, yes one thing, which was extremely dangerous for bikers, were the confrontation of honeybees from time to time on Naran to Babusar top road as there were setups led down alongside the road for the extraction of honey from honeybees. And they really struck us at different places, it was good enough that we had helmets, even few got stuck to shirt also which have to be put down from hands.
The whole Naran-Babusar top road is in perfect shape now contrary to my previous experience when it was very bumpy trek. Now we started feeling hunger as we did not take breakfast, so anxiously waiting for Jalkhad now, and there it goes we finally reached Jalkhad at 10:10am. We selected Jalkhad for breakfast because I had very good experience of breakfast over here, a beautiful scenic view along river side, scrumptious parathas , having washrooms, so in short a perfect point for breakfast. As we parked our bike, stretched our muscles and then order for breakfast and meanwhile photography session started. The breakfast costed us 520Rs (5 parathas, 4 omelets, 4 tea). After spending an hour here roughly, we started our journey again at 11:05am. Now the next short stay was at Lulusar Lake. We reached there around 11:25am. And the first sight of the lake observed to be the scenic one, so we parked bike the same place and started capturing memories in camera, It was better to spend few moments here rather than to the actual stay point of lulusar due to so much crowd over there. Soon after we started our journey further towards babusartop.
Now, ascend towards babusar top started. My bikenwas Alhamdullillah in very good shape, crossed these ascends without any stop and delays, but our other bike was creating problem while ascending and which started wondering me by keeping in view our next destinations. One person of our group on other bike has to cover few places on his foot but we found it good as he was getting over weight I had to stop at places for them to reach us. My kid-wearing helmet was the eye catcher for almost everyone in this whole expedition. One couple even stopped the car near us and asked us from where die we come from, I replied Islamabad, and upon this, he started yelling on her wife that I was telling you that they would be from Islamabad/Rawalpindi. As mostly, people go on bike tours mostly from Rawalpindi /Islamabad and Lahore. They thumbed up us and conveyed love to my kid. We stayed few distance before babusar top for our other group member to reach us, and this point observed to be more refreshing now to have picturesque view of the whole Valley and the mountain ranges. O yes I forgot to mention, my wife dropped her purse on this road for which she had to go back on her feet for some distance and then came back. All these scenes have been captured and will be displayed through pictures time to time.
And finally we reached Babusar top view point around 1:00. We did short stay here, I offered zuhar prayer here, took pictures. Again, people asked about how did you manage to come with family on bike over here, from where did you purchase the helmets ? etc. etc. I guess we started to descend from babusar top around 1:45pm. I started creating urgency as we got late already to our planned schedule. It was absolutely stunning view of roads descending from babusar top on other side towards chillas road. Meanwhile drizzling also started and that’s the major thing, which creates problem for me the most and I was like, the clouds are upon us and down below there seemed to be less clouds further, so we have to cover this distance quickly but safely. And it happened the same way, the rain stopped as we descended. In addition, as we were crossing the distance, I was getting worried and surprised that the beautiful weather which we felt in our souls until Babusar top, was started saying goodbye to us. We felt as the lush green mountains covered with lush green trees were desperately saying us that do not go further as they know what is waiting for us further. The beautiful Naran-Babusar top valley, its flashing streams, soul refreshing weather and stupefying greenery were literally forcing us to stay with them and spend our time with them. But we did not realize this and continued our journey. None of us was ever visited these areas before (i.e. after babusar top) . So we were unaware about the bitterness of climate waiting for us.
Now we started feeling some hot as we left the lush green mountains behind us. However, it was still bearable so far. On the roadside there were few hotels and rest points too which we were crossing. At times, we felt to refresh us with fresh water. We also noticed few bikes coming from other side, they had applied sunblock completely on their faces, and that’s the point where I really get tensed that the situations does not seem good further, the guys also pointed us their thumbs up. We continued our journey and as soon as we reached Chillas army check post……… I do not have words to explain our condition. It was extreme weather conditions. A dry hot air was splashing us. We asked about Raikot Bridge route and then moved further. Conditions were really getting from bad to worst. We started being exhausted. The real tension was of my kid, though he was covered with helmet and was not facing the
intensity that much but still ……..
Soon after we come across a Petrol pump, and we stopped the bike there for refueling. The weather was at its extreme, it was told to be 47-degree temperature. There were rush of cars, coasters as well as bikes too. My kid was bit exhausted, and his face was like reddish from extreme weather. And it was the first most tensed moment for me being father during this tour. We took him towards a water cooler, refreshed him with water and juices. It was that point which put me in if’s and buts what to do next. The only troublesome thing was my kid in this extreme climate. I started thinking here that, we should go back from here, should not go further, and should enjoy time in Naran. A group of bikers came from Gilgit and they were like, you people decided good to go to Skardu rather than Gilgit, as it was hot in Gilgit too. Few bikers came to us and asked that you should not bring your family here over bike. One family in car came to us, that we were upset in car and you brought family and kid on bike here. They have kids with them too and they started kissing and loving my kid. Alhamdulillah Allah Pak has blessed my kid with good patience, and he did not utter his problems and pains with us, rather he started playing there with water given to him for drink. We also refreshed us with water by applying it on our faces. Meanwhile another biker group motivated us that you have come here, so now you can cover the distance further, no issues. We refueled the petrol tanks. It costed 550 Rs. for my bike and 730 for other bike. I moved into corner alone and I was kept thinking what to do next.
We, parked bike on the other side of road under tree shades. There were groups who reached here in oasters too. I started discussing things with all my group members what to do next; meanwhile we were consuming juices and soft drinks to energize ourselves. That costed 650Rs. Nevertheless, we were not agreeing on any decision. Everyone was looking towards me for decision. And I was like, please come up with your own decision individually, and then we shall decide, but they were like, whatever you will say, we shall do that. There were also a bus stop nearby, so we asked that at what time bus goes from here, what will be the fair etc. We come up with different option, the first one was to board my kid wife and one male group member in bus and meanwhile the other friend and I shall reach Astore by bike. The 2nd one was to go back to Naran and enjoy time there, and the third option was to continue the journey as it is.
It took almost one hour for us to decide and finally we concluded along with my wife consent, it is better to go further now, rather than to go back again. So we dipped a male shoulder scarf in water and placed on the face of my kid, my kid is now behind me on bike and we started our journey ahead. All of us wore facemasks, glasses and helmets. It was absolutely upsetting and tensed journey until KKH. The Indus River was not leaving us along with the barren White Mountains, no sign of shades, and trees. We were in full speed, swiftness to cover this distance as soon as possible, my kid went to sleep, and I found this good to cover as much distance as I can while my child is sleeping. The road was not that much bad, but very few signs of traffic. Just imagine, muddy river Indus on one side, barren mountains on other side, sizzling sunrays and extreme scorching climate, desolate wild route , and you are on bike with wife and kid………… We were getting extremely annoyed to see the Jaglot distance signboard, as it looked that it was not getting reduced, we were flashing our bikes but the distance remained the same 
. Meanwhile my wife also kept busy with kid as he was awakening time to time and she was trying to give him sleeping dose .
We crossed Raikot Bridge meanwhile and first time take a sigh of relief that now we are getting closer to KKH. Anyways finally, we were on KKH and at the time, and then stopped on the diversion road toward right side leading to Astore. My wife was at her extreme condition here too, she was like that burning coal, which burn others too , she ride off from bike, took kid along with her and sat on stairs near the landmark point. I gave her some time to be relax, and to my part, I got relaxed that we had crossed the toughest part and it will be short and smooth distance to cover now. But the nature and conditions said Na Na Na, you people are on mistake, we have some more amusement for you…….You have planned to come on bike so now enjoy further. we were unware that this was sort of a demo.
Oh yes, it was, because went to a family who had parked their car at some distance alongside the road, and we asked from him that how much distance of Astore is from here, and he said it is around 2 hours, we were like, common don’t tell us this . He further explained that the road condition is extremely ruthless, that is why he came back and cancelled to go further. It really blew our minds. It was 5:15pm and we noticed the shades on mountains, the sign of approaching of evening and darkness. We talked to each other, motivated each other and then we were again on bike ,And as soon we started descend towards bridge leading towards other part of river Indus on Astore road, we felt that we are riding bike on mountains, extremely bumpy, broken, dusty road with big stones as it is under construction. However, fortunately, this road patch was only until bridge, and after that, it was a little better in comparison with the previous one. Remember it was little better than the previous patch but not as much better, at least there were no big stones, which we crossed before bridge. We were assuming to reach Astore in one and half hour the way kilometers were being displayed. But it was our
credulity. Things were not that much easy.
There were heavy-duty traffic like trucks and trackers. Furthermore, at places, the road condition was also not stable, and one side there was river Indus with no roadside protection grills. So confronting all these hazels and incident took place, which happened first time with me with my family on bike. I was on the riverside and a big full size truck, appeared towards our side. It was ascend for me and in seconds, I had to decide what to do, so I continued to ascend while the truck crossing and moving towards my side of the road. Moreover, as I ascended there was a little big stone appeared and I just could not control the bike and fell down towards right side. The truck crossed us with very little distance and he was least bothered for anything. First, he came towards our side and then he even did not apply any brakes. Thanks to Allah Pak, nothing serious happened. I had setup safety rod in bike for this tour. It really helped that time as bike was on ground on its support and we, especially, the kid was safe due to this safety rod.
I looked back towards my friend and one of them came to help us out . Important thing is, they felt too but anyways we recovered as time was passing and we have to cover the distance. To cut short, it went dark, and the sun set off. We were now riding bike in darkness. Whenever we asks from anyone, that how much time is left for astore? We received replies that “just a little distance further”. And we were like furious on that. Anyways finally, we crossed a check post and reached Astore at 8:00pm. We went to different hotels for checking and finally we selected “Madina Hotel”. It was good one, economical and with good food and service. We reserved one room for family and my other members asked for setting up camp, but the hotel owner offered them their own visitor /staff room for sleep in 100/200 rupees I guess. So, it was very economical. We got fresh, took dinner “chicken karahi”, it was scrumptious one and then went for sleep as it was an extremely rough and tough, hazardous day.
