Ask Xulfiqar - An Automotive Encyclopedia

Vaqas1 (Vaqas1) 2015-10-08 14:35:38 +0500 #5181

Engine cranks really slow when hot. Today it just refused to crank and giving 10 mins break it was back to normal. Hmm starter or battery?

saboor73 (Saaboor A saad) 2015-10-08 14:38:45 +0500 #5182

Probably positive terminal

saboor73 (Saaboor A saad) 2015-10-08 14:39:01 +0500 #5183

Probably positive terminal

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2015-10-08 14:43:36 +0500 #5184

move to the next shop, the one you were at are idiots. - You could also ask for "power steering ka tel"

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2015-10-08 14:45:19 +0500 #5185

when this happens, touch the terminals and the starter lugs, if they are unusually hot/warm. Hot/warm indicates bad or weak contact.

Vaqas1 (Vaqas1) 2015-10-08 14:50:30 +0500 #5186

Will check tht.

Vaqas1 (Vaqas1) 2015-10-08 14:52:17 +0500 #5187

Ok I will check. But this is happening when i have driven the car for good 25km. I m also feeling the car is cranking not like before. Battery guy with his load type tester said well its a little weak.

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2015-10-08 14:53:19 +0500 #5188

heat soaked starter??

check the terminals and lugs when it happens. - The usual battery guy and his load tester will always tell you the battery is weak, even if its a brand new car (they want to sell you a new battery made with null ka pani and gandhak ka taizaab)

saboor73 (Saaboor A saad) 2015-10-08 15:00:42 +0500 #5189

Xulfiqar sir Why car refuse to crank ?if crank position sensor go bad I mean it should crank atleast

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2015-10-08 15:02:45 +0500 #5190

yes it should, the crank sensor has nothing to do with engine cranking

mir.azam (mir.azam) 2015-10-08 15:14:30 +0500 #5191

@xulfiqar Bhai
There is a whining sort of noise which comes from the main pulley side which increases with the amount of acceleration. When the engine is started in morning oil lamp switches on for 2,3 seconds and then shuts of what can be this issue ?
Car in Consideration : Honda City 01 SX8
Engine : D15B non vtec

saboor73 (Saaboor A saad) 2015-10-08 16:19:42 +0500 #5192

Editted

accord786 (accord786) 2015-10-08 16:56:16 +0500 #5193

Thank you sir. The rubber boot was seated and locked but after that the sound still came. Turns out that the Mechanic bent the nuts of the Manifold at time of removing and re-installing. Hence some off the exhaust noise was leaking due to poor fitting and making its way into the cabin. New nuts were used and the sound is now gone.

HOWEVER, the other problem now is that the car is driving very heavy. It used to be very nippy and responsive to acceleration but now one needs to really floor the car to get it to move and its just not the same anymore.

Please could you suggest why this could have happened and how I could resolve this?

While removing the Steering Rack for repair, the Mechanic had to remove the engine top over, spark plugs etc to remove it.

Once everything was re-assembled, the Check engine light went on so the Mechanic asked the car to be turned off and removed the battery terminal for a few minutes to re-set the computer. After this the check engine light went away. Don't know if that could have caused a problem?

I just want my car to drive how it used to

Look forward to hearing from you soon

God bless

searchingeyez (searchingeyez) 2015-10-08 18:55:05 +0500 #5194

@xulfiqar can you please guide me how to adjust aim of headlights of city 99 with standard way...i heard there is some mark on honda..but i didn't see it on my car headlight ..city99 is not crystal headlight sx8

ziyad.ahmad.391 (ziyad.ahmad.391) 2015-10-09 08:51:20 +0500 #5195

accord786;4923829:

Thank you sir. The rubber boot was seated and locked but after that the sound still came. Turns out that the Mechanic bent the nuts of the Manifold at time of removing and re-installing. Hence some off the exhaust noise was leaking due to poor fitting and making its way into the cabin. New nuts were used and the sound is now gone.

HOWEVER, the other problem now is that the car is driving very heavy. It used to be very nippy and responsive to acceleration but now one needs to really floor the car to get it to move and its just not the same anymore.

Please could you suggest why this could have happened and how I could resolve this?

While removing the Steering Rack for repair, the Mechanic had to remove the engine top over, spark plugs etc to remove it.

Once everything was re-assembled, the Check engine light went on so the Mechanic asked the car to be turned off and removed the battery terminal for a few minutes to re-set the computer. After this the check engine light went away. Don't know if that could have caused a problem?

I just want my car to drive how it used to

Look forward to hearing from you soon

God bless

Just wanted to ask..Was this sound sort of increased engine noise or was it different from the normal engine sound of ur car? And was it louder on cold start then gradually came down as the car warmed up?

metalhead (مظہر) 2015-10-09 12:06:14 +0500 #5196

@accord786
A reset and idle relearn may be needed again after the exhaust leak repair. What do you say @xulfiqar bhai?

najeeh (Najeeh) 2015-10-09 12:58:51 +0500 #5197

Aoa.

I checked the traction control motor as you suggested on my thread that this could be the culprit for the Engine code 56. The motor is perfectly fine. When the car is off, the sub throttle valve is open, when I turn the key to ignition, it goes from being fully open to being fully closed then fully open. Which shows that the motor is working. I adjusted both the throttle position sensors which resolved TRAC code 47, but TRAC is still giving code 51 and engine is giving 13 and 56.

I got the spark plugs changed 2 days ago which stopped the jerking under hard acceleration. The engine does go above 2000rpm when driving (took it till 5000rpm), does not hesitate or jerk. It will not rev when in park. My father started the car with the accelerator fully depressed and kept it there, engine went to 6200rpm, after a second it started jerking and got cut-off, went to idle and started to jump between 2000-2400 rpm and idle. While on the 6200rpm limit the Check engine light blinks as the engine is rev bouncing. The TRAC and TRC OFF light comes on after a second and this is the moment when it starts to jerk and gets cut-off.

Any suggestion on how to resolve it?

Regards
Najeeh

faiz.aslam.121 (Faiz Aslam) 2015-10-09 17:29:27 +0500 #5198

Salam.

Just curious about some things ;
When replacing brake lines and all the brake fluid is drained - Is it enough to just vacuum the system from each caliper or do you have to "drain" the ABS pump for air aswell? If a car with a fully functional brake cylinder gets it's brake lines replaced and after the work, the brake pedal goes all the way down - What can the cause be?

And can a Lucas brake cylinder be replaced with another brand?
If I wish to buy Mercedes and other german brand parts online, OEM, quick shipping and good service - Any recommendations? Need this part aswell - A0064300101. Know any method to diagnose this if it's gone bad, apart from pressure testing it.

syncview (Osama Abbas) 2015-10-09 19:30:26 +0500 #5199

different cars with ABS have different methods to bleed for different manufacturers, most don't need 'special' treatment though. In some cases like the VW/AUDI you have to connect diagnostics to purge the ABS

run of the day toyotas and honda here, no need for any such thing.
now by vacuum you mean vacuum bleed? So far, i've found that the best bleeding method is as suggested by Xulfiqar, bleed bottle above the bleed screw and below the MC - bleed screw 1/4 open - short slow strokes on the brake pedal, gets it done nice and easy.

brake lines replaced? was the system bled properly all four corners?

yes, any master cylinder can be replaced with any brand product that is meant to replace it, the size should be same though specially if all other parts are OE spec

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2015-10-09 19:34:47 +0500 #5200

najeeh;4924471:

Aoa.

I checked the traction control motor as you suggested on my thread that this could be the culprit for the Engine code 56. The motor is perfectly fine. When the car is off, the sub throttle valve is open, when I turn the key to ignition, it goes from being fully open to being fully closed then fully open. Which shows that the motor is working. I adjusted both the throttle position sensors which resolved TRAC code 47, but TRAC is still giving code 51 and engine is giving 13 and 56.

I got the spark plugs changed 2 days ago which stopped the jerking under hard acceleration. The engine does go above 2000rpm when driving (took it till 5000rpm), does not hesitate or jerk. It will not rev when in park. My father started the car with the accelerator fully depressed and kept it there, engine went to 6200rpm, after a second it started jerking and got cut-off, went to idle and started to jump between 2000-2400 rpm and idle. While on the 6200rpm limit the Check engine light blinks as the engine is rev bouncing. The TRAC and TRC OFF light comes on after a second and this is the moment when it starts to jerk and gets cut-off.

Any suggestion on how to resolve it?

Regards
Najeeh

sounds like a problematic TRAC unit - does the car to to full rpm redline when in D and pedal to the floor? Or does it just sit around 2000 rpm?