Ask Xulfiqar - An Automotive Encyclopedia

[Xulfiqar]

Salam.

Just curious about some things ;
When replacing brake lines and all the brake fluid is drained - Is it enough to just vacuum the system from each caliper or do you have to "drain" the ABS pump for air aswell? If a car with a fully functional brake cylinder gets it's brake lines replaced and after the work, the brake pedal goes all the way down - What can the cause be?

And can a Lucas brake cylinder be replaced with another brand?
If I wish to buy Mercedes and other german brand parts online, OEM, quick shipping and good service - Any recommendations? Need this part aswell - A0064300101. Know any method to diagnose this if it's gone bad, apart from pressure testing it.

as @syncview mentioned, I find the best way to bleed the brakes is using the pedal and a bleed bottle above the caliper level but below the master cylinder level, with end of pipe dipped in liquid. This ensures air bubbles are removed.

When changing brake pipes, its best to change one at a time then let the pipe drain itself naturally while you top up the master cylinder and then tighten it to the caliper. This way there is miminal bleed to be done on each wheel.

The master cylinder you show is classic mercedes design but built for the Gwagen, Its easily rebuildable with new parts or buy a rebuilt/new unit. You can swap out a Lucas cylinder for an ATE or Girling item without issue as long as its a correct replacement part and the front and rear ports are the same (they all are the same btw, V and H - vorne and hinten) Usually the master cylinder fails when you have an old cylinder of a neglected brake system and press the pedal to the floor. This tears the seals as it goes into rusty areas of the cylinder.

[syncview]

Aoa.

I checked the traction control motor as you suggested on my thread that this could be the culprit for the Engine code 56. The motor is perfectly fine. When the car is off, the sub throttle valve is open, when I turn the key to ignition, it goes from being fully open to being fully closed then fully open. Which shows that the motor is working. I adjusted both the throttle position sensors which resolved TRAC code 47, but TRAC is still giving code 51 and engine is giving 13 and 56.

I got the spark plugs changed 2 days ago which stopped the jerking under hard acceleration. The engine does go above 2000rpm when driving (took it till 5000rpm), does not hesitate or jerk. It will not rev when in park. My father started the car with the accelerator fully depressed and kept it there, engine went to 6200rpm, after a second it started jerking and got cut-off, went to idle and started to jump between 2000-2400 rpm and idle. While on the 6200rpm limit the Check engine light blinks as the engine is rev bouncing. The TRAC and TRC OFF light comes on after a second and this is the moment when it starts to jerk and gets cut-off.

Any suggestion on how to resolve it?

Regards
Najeeh

code 13 is no rpm signal no.2 - which is a crank / cam sensor correlation code - most probable causes on your car would be bad wiring to cam sensor(s), check wiring to cam and crank sensors and sensors themselves.

plus ref the engine code 56, are you sure its the right code?

[Xulfiqar]

@Xulfiqar can you please guide me how to adjust aim of headlights of city 99 with standard way...i heard there is some mark on honda..but i didn't see it on my car headlight ..city99 is not crystal headlight sx8

you need to aim them with a wall and paint mark - I think its a 25 ft, its the same standard for all RHD cars.

[Xulfiqar]

code 13 is no rpm signal no.2 - which is a crank / cam sensor correlation code - most probable causes on your car would be bad wiring to cam sensor, check wiring to cam and crank sensors and sensors themselves.

plus ref the engine code 56, are you sure its the right code?

most probably the cam belt is installed a tooth out. I have seen it once in Karachi. this happens when belt tension is not taken seriously while installing.

the code 56 does occur on some very early JDM models and is a right PITA to solve.

[syncview]

ah yes, the belt installation is a very common problem

what does code 56 translate to anyways? I don't see any such code in the manual i though it might as well be code 5 and 6

[Xulfiqar]

ah yes, the belt installation is a very common problem

what does code 56 translate to anyways? I don't see any such code in the manual i though it might as well be code 5 and 6

rattling the nuts and bolts in my brains very hard, I sort of recall its to do with some BS problem, like traction control motor position implausible or something - I also was thrown off by it a long time ago in Karachi.

[najeeh]

sounds like a problematic TRAC unit - does the car to to full rpm redline when in D and pedal to the floor? Or does it just sit around 2000 rpm?

It goes to 6200rpm when in D

[najeeh]

I have to change the timing belt on it as I think it has never been done before. Today I'll be checking the wiring for the TRAC ECU and engine ECU to see if there are any breakages. Code 13 could be due a jumped timing belt and the cam sensors giving different signals or it could be a faulty sensor.

The main concern for me right now is to resolve code 56. I don't think the OBD1 system in this stores 1 digit codes?, I could be wrong. The engine revs to 6200 rpm for a second after being started at full throttle. I think the engine ECU communicates with the traction control, detects a problem and goes into safe mode. The TRAC and TRAC OFF light only come on after 1-2 seconds of the car being started. At this point the car is limited to around 2000 rpm.

[afnanSJfayaz]

Salam @Xulfiqar sir. I have a 2015 civic auto with 4000KM on the ODO. The brake pedal gives me a squeaky sound only sometimes when pressed and released right till the end when I need to stop completely. I've been googling around. With my near to nothing knowledge I think that the pedal needs lubrication. If this is correct please guide me what to use for lubrication and where to lubricate. Any other advice or suggestions would be appreciated. I am attaching a picture too. I went to Honda, they said it's normal. LOL. Waiting in anticipation.

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[Fahad.Ayub]

is electrolyte reduction a sign of battery overcharging ? also my multimeter shows 15 volts when the engines running and goes down to 13.5 when under full load (A/C,Light etc)

[avaiz84]

there are many variations of engines that came in G11 charade, which one do you have? snap a picture of the engine with aircleaner removed and also snap a picture of the ID plate (tikli) on the firewall

Here are some of pics

[capsat]

Salam @Xulfiqar sir. Any other advice or suggestions would be appreciated. I am attaching a picture too. I went to Honda, they said it's normal. LOL. Waiting in anticipation.

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USE mild spray of WD-40 at pedal linkage & springs, please

[avaiz84]

What I am missing here? Plz guide me @xulfiqar bro

[afnanSJfayaz]

USE mild spray of WD-40 at pedal linkage & springs, please

Should I just spray upwards mildly? I can't seem to find the pivot point it's quite high up and there's a metal piece blocking my view.

[capsat]

Should I just spray upwards mildly? I can't seem to find the pivot point it's quite high up and there's a metal piece blocking my view.

locate it by touch and spray while holding it, later wash hands with dish washing soap

[HellsGuardian]

mobil 3309 is toyota T-IV - Is it mentioned on your suzuki gearbox?

yes it says mobil 3309 OR suzuki 3317. Thank you

Also should i go for 5w30(shell helix ultra API SN) or 10w30(havoline if not available in shell)? The car is JDM ALTO 2012, 68km driven. It is giving 14+ km/l with ac in city drive so i guess engine is in good health. Btw the manufacturer recommends 5w30 in cold and 10w30 in hot environment. So what is best for islamabad?
About brands, should i consider imported toyota genuine oil? (tin pack)

Lastly any suggestions for oil filter?

[saboor73]

Xulfiqar sir I was reading somewhere that a bit smaller throttle body or carb (in dia) can give better lower end torque by reducing high rpm torque is it true

[afnan.bashir]

@xulfiqar @syncview why is my engine getting like it's on chocolate. I change oil with OEM 5w30 Honda oil. Synthetic one

Secondly intake and exhaust valves are both on 0.25 mm something. Checked on cylinder 1 only. Now I plan to set them 0.23 intake and 0.26 mm. Should I go for mid values of range or low or max values ?

[afnan.bashir]

Update @xulfiqar I could find tdc marks for one and 3 and 4 but this is tricky because can and vtc had marks. Vtc had one punch and one line and same for other. I also kept dip stick for reference. This is confusing. Anyway for 1 and 4 were near to specs. But 2 and 3 had no gap. Their injector is more dirty as well. Now I have adjusted all now I am worried it this sounds too loud because don't know how long it had been running on such condition.

[umarkhan1]

Update @xulfiqar I could find tdc marks for one and 3 and 4 but this is tricky because can and vtc had marks. Vtc had one punch and one line and same for other. I also kept dip stick for reference. This is confusing. Anyway for 1 and 4 were near to specs. But 2 and 3 had no gap. Their injector is more dirty as well. Now I have adjusted all now I am worried it this sounds too loud because don't know how long it had been running on such condition.

Any diy to clean injectors?
Do the o rings require replacement after injector removal?

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