Ask Xulfiqar - An Automotive Encyclopedia

[ahmed2396]

dear shaheryar.khokhar i hv engine mounting, manual gear box, complete computer wiring , axles alonf with swap

which one fuel system is best OBD-MPFI or EFI?

Depends on engine. Old hondas were mpfi

[ahmed2396]

That's what i tried to tell him. @civic19952 if you need an economical daily driven then get any D series motor or else get a B, H, or F motor. K Series is also an option and it would be a cherry on the top, same is the case with the B series but these two redheads ain't cheap. So in short just identify your needs, further its your car, your money, your own choice.

D does the job pretty decently. 4cyl econobox it is. No hassle of anything everything readily available for D. Dropping in decent D15 is good enough unless one is into drag or track run. L motor was made for city. Get a healthy D15B and it swap it correctly electric stuff.

[ahmad73]

@xulfiqar Bhai,my Honda Civic 2008 prosmateic is reducing oil gradually it is driven 192k and i have changed the taiped jain and v-tec jain on Honda(Mechanic) recomendiation but there is still issue i use caltex 10W-30 so please suggest me something it will be very helpfull.

[ziyad.ahmad.391]

@xulfiqar..Sir i have a civic 8th gen(reborn) that has a weird problem that only occurs once im in stop and go traffic..Today while i was coming back from the hospital i used a different route which involved heavy stop nd go traffic and suddenly my shifts became jerky(prosmatic) and rpm started decreasing till eventually the car stopped..Restarted again nd managed to come home driving very slowly..Hooked up my scan tool to find that stft and ltft were in -25 ranges..This same scenario had happened once before when i was in stop nd go traffic..Last time when it happened i unpluged the maf sensor then connected it again and my fuel trims came back to -1 or even 0..Same i did this time and fuel trims became absolutely normal after i disconnected and reconnected the maf sensor..Please tell me is this the issue with the connectors or something else and how should i proceed further??? Should i clean them or do anything else??? I have both wd40 and wd40 contact cleaner ..Kindly help me

[ziyad.ahmad.391]

@xulfiqar Bhai,my Honda Civic 2008 prosmateic is reducing oil gradually it is driven 192k and i have changed the taiped jain and v-tec jain on Honda(Mechanic) recomendiation but there is still issue i use caltex 10W-30 so please suggest me something it will be very helpfull.

Simple easy and cheap fix:
Check for oil drip from oil pan
Pcv valve replacement

[Xulfiqar]

@Xulfiqar..Sir i have a civic 8th gen(reborn) that has a weird problem that only occurs once im in stop and go traffic..Today while i was coming back from the hospital i used a different route which involved heavy stop nd go traffic and suddenly my shifts became jerky(prosmatic) and rpm started decreasing till eventually the car stopped..Restarted again nd managed to come home driving very slowly..Hooked up my scan tool to find that stft and ltft were in -25 ranges..This same scenario had happened once before when i was in stop nd go traffic..Last time when it happened i unpluged the maf sensor then connected it again and my fuel trims came back to -1 or even 0..Same i did this time and fuel trims became absolutely normal after i disconnected and reconnected the maf sensor..Please tell me is this the issue with the connectors or something else and how should i proceed further??? Should i clean them or do anything else??? I have both wd40 and wd40 contact cleaner ..Kindly help me

the trims are a learnt value. if you were seeing -25% trim then the system was detecting high overfuelling, this can be due to bad MAF, bad AFR or leaking injectors etc.

what were the trims above idle.

[Marschall]

@xulfiqar can u tell me the operating temp of my m112 its at 97 deg max..i think its running hot

[Xulfiqar]

@Xulfiqar can u tell me the operating temp of my m112 its at 97 deg max..i think its running hot

its perfectly ok - i believe you took this picture after the car was idling for a while, whilst running on the road, it will usually stick to 82C

No need for any concern now, if that needle reaches 110C - Then its overheating.

[ziyad.ahmad.391]

the trims are a learnt value. if you were seeing -25% trim then the system was detecting high overfuelling, this can be due to bad MAF, bad AFR or leaking injectors etc.

what were the trims above idle.

Above idle i was also getting -20 fuel trims but when i removed the connector of the maf and reconnected it the trims came back to normal..im asking with what chemical and how should i clean the connector of the maf as it seems its the culprit here...

[Xulfiqar]

Above idle i was also getting -20 fuel trims but when i removed the connector of the maf and reconnected it the trims came back to normal..im asking with what chemical and how should i clean the connector of the maf as it seems its the culprit here...

the fuel trims coming back to zero is not showing normal, its basically eliminating the MAF and going on fixed air. aka bias control.

try cleaning your MAF sensor, use a non-residue cleaner - circuit cleaner - make sure it doesnt hurt the plastic of the MAF, check the response of the MAF by snapping the throttle - you should see it react almost immediately, it should also be reading close to 1.8 gram/second of air in a 1.8 litre engine at idle.

If the cleaning of the MAF doesnt help you then it might be a bad MAF sensor. But the story doesnt end here, you will need to check other bits n pieces too. a bad AFR/o2 sensor can also do this.

[Marschall]

its perfectly ok - i believe you took this picture after the car was idling for a while, whilst running on the road, it will usually stick to 82C

No need for any concern now, if that needle reaches 110C - Then its overheating.

yes exactly it is 85-90 while driving and max is 97 during idling whether it be hot or cold the needle never goes above 95-97

[Xulfiqar]

yes exactly it is 85-90 while driving and max is 97 during idling whether it be hot or cold the needle never goes above 95-97

your car is A spec. Be thankful that mercedes benz gave you an actual gauge that moves, unlike the useless gauges in japanese cars which stay stuck at middle no matter if the temperature is 80C or 105C

[Salman922]

@xulfiqar Bhai kindly look into these threads..

https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/corolla/249752-corolla-2-0d-saloon-engine-transmission-problem-3

https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/mechanical-electrical/176333-guard-coolant-antifreeze-2

[metalhead]

your car is A spec. Be thankful that mercedes benz gave you an actual gauge that moves, unlike the useless gauges in japanese cars which stay stuck at middle no matter if the temperature is 80C or 105C

If it is so, we cannot say Japanese cars have engine coolant temperature "gauge" but just an indication of temperature status...

[jeepaholic]

Please guide How to find out if all the sensors of the engine are working, well the Pandora box is it's a new swap being done in a 1985 Toyota corona and the engine is 1nz-fe the deal with the mechanic is that all sensors will work but how to check that?

[nomi381]

Dear Xulfiqar , i ve belta 2006 1.3. Whn idle, engine sound is not smooth. Its like ghrr ghrr ghrr. Is it something serious ???

[Xulfiqar]

Please guide How to find out if all the sensors of the engine are working, well the Pandora box is it's a new swap being done in a 1985 Toyota corona and the engine is 1nz-fe the deal with the mechanic is that all sensors will work but how to check that?

wire up the DLC and connect a live scan to it - test the engine run from it, which should include fuel trims, operating temperature, MAF performance, ignition timing control, knock count, etc.

[umarkhan1]

@xulfiqar
I have bought a Mercedes-Benz W202 C180 1994.Drives smooth as silk but has a problem though.When it shifts from 1st to 2nd a jhatka with a khatak noise comes.Previous owner is saying k pechle hise k bush kharab hn.What could be the problem.I haven't visited a mechanic yet because there is no good mechanic of MB here in Sargodha.

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[saboor73]

@xulfiqar
I have bought a Mercedes-Benz W202 C180 1994.Drives smooth as silk but has a problem though.When it shifts from 1st to 2nd a jhatka with a khatak noise comes.Previous owner is saying k pechle hise k bush kharab hn.What could be the problem.I haven't visited a mechanic yet because there is no good mechanic of MB here in Sargodha.

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Can't help you with the problem but congratez on your purchase BTW can you pm me buying price please

[Xulfiqar]

@Xulfiqar
I have bought a Mercedes-Benz W202 C180 1994.Drives smooth as silk but has a problem though.When it shifts from 1st to 2nd a jhatka with a khatak noise comes.Previous owner is saying k pechle hise k bush kharab hn.What could be the problem.I haven't visited a mechanic yet because there is no good mechanic of MB here in Sargodha.

Sent from my iPhone using PW Forums

the noise can be worn out flex discs on teh driveshaft or torn up differential mount bushings in the rear subframe - it may also be the subframe bushings themselves, get under the car and inspect them.

Replacing the diff mount bushings is a bit difficult as you need to do it blind and you will need to make a puller tool to do this job.

I hope you are going to dispose of these cheap wheels on the car.