Ask Xulfiqar - An Automotive Encyclopedia

[ishaqueahmed2003]

In Rawalpindi Burraq Autos

[atharkhan87]

@capsat can anyone please give me a good mechanic for this issue?

[hash737]

Salam @capsat @Xulfiqar @hash4u @Spano

help me out below guys, have a fluctuating/surging/dancing idle of 2005 honda civic.

2005 Honda Civic VTI IDLE Surging/Fluctuating...HELP!

Salam, Please view the below attached videos i just made of my cars idle. the car idle stays at 850 but when you rev it and leave the accelarator the rpm rather coming straight back to 900 first hovers between 1100 to 1500 and then gradually comes back to 900. everything i reach a signal and release the gear and put car in neutral the engine revs to 1.5k then stays static at 1.1k and then gradually comes back to 850 rpm. when i rev the engine on idle the rpm keeps jumping between 1k and …

[argtr65]

There is no blue smoke or oil reduction because oil control rings are in good shape.

[mmsiddique]

What could be possible cause of hard start in 5vz?

[hash4u]

• look for vacuum leaks
• PCV needs to be checked

[razaafridi]

Guys! So here I am. The problem that i was facing regarding the jerks in slow speeds and hesitation while accelerating is finally solved. I have been diagnosing different components of the car to get this solved but nothing really helped. Finally after I got my injectors cleaned by Toyota 3S (not with a injector cleaner but disassembling them), my problem is solved and car drives like a new one.
The problem was due to low grade fuel these petrol pumps offers us. Lots of residual deposits were found and which removed gave a new life to my car.
I would suggest anyone of you having the same problem to go and have your injectors checked. You might be facing the same problem.

[capsat]

get the ignition timing checked

Salam @capsat @Xulfiqar @hash4u @Spano

help me out below guys, have a fluctuating/surging/dancing idle of 2005 honda civic.

2005 Honda Civic VTI IDLE Surging/Fluctuating...HELP!

Salam,

Please view the below attached videos i just made of my cars idle.

the car idle stays at 850 but when you rev it and leave the accelarator the rpm rather coming straight back to 900 first hovers between 1100 to 1500 and then gradually comes back to 900.

everything i reach a signal and release the gear and put car in neutral the engine revs to 1.5k then stays static at 1.1k and then gradually comes back to 850 rpm.

when i rev the engine on idle the rpm keeps jumping between 1k and …

[mmsiddique]

What could be possible cause of hard start in 5vz?

Any person could help me please !!!

[capsat]

PLEASE explain what you mean by hard start ... is it taking long crank to start in morning or it is problematic to start that engine any time of the day ??

[quote="mmsiddique, post:8072, topic:209322, full:true"]

What could be possible cause of hard start in 5vz?

Any person could help me please !!!

[/quote]

[mmsiddique]

PLEASE explain what you mean by hard start ... is it taking long crank to start in morning or it is problematic to start that engine any time of the day ??

[quote="mmsiddique, post:8072, topic:209322, full:true"]

What could be possible cause of hard start in 5vz?

Any person could help me please !!!

[/quote]

It take too much crank to fire it either in the morning or even if it's hot during day. Going to change fuel pump as a start point with Toyota genuine one. Just to add, this is 5vz swapped for 4m40 in lwb second generation Pajero

[omkhan]

@Xulfiqar bhai, hope u r doing good.
I have a Honda City Steermatic 2007 with 116K on the ODO. Car is running perfectly but I have a question regarding the maximum safe ranges of the coolant temperature since this car is not equipped with a gauge. I have an OBD2 adapter with bluetooth and I have been monitoring the general stats specially coolant temperature with Torque Pro App. Recently due to changes in office timings I am facing too much traffic congestion and its like covering 1 km in literally 10 minutes or more.
I am using Honda genuine type 2 coolant, thermostat never removed, fans are auto. Engine oil is Honda fully synthetic 5w-30, changed last month and only used 2500Km till now. Fans kick in exactly at 96 C. However, I am noticing that in this bumper to bumper dead traffic the temperature reaches to 101 C and then drops back to 98 C in a while.This happens with and without AC. Tonight in same traffic conditions it reached 103 C, stayed there for some 30 seconds and dropped back to 98 C. The red light for the temperature never showed up though.
I have a long trip due shortly (KHI - ISB) and changing of thermostat and radiator is on my TODO list. Just wanna know if this spike to 103 C is safe or should I inspect other areas like head gasket, water pump etc? The car is not reducing any coolant and the coolant is also not boiling since I can't hear any such sound or see steam when open the hood. Also no smoke in exhaust. I have also checked for bubbles in the radiator and monitored the coolant flow which all seems fine. Kindly let me know what else should I look for. Sorry for the long post but felt necessary to fill in as many details as possible. Thanks

[capsat]

thats what i wanted to know @mmsiddique indeed a 6 cylinder petrol need ENOUGH FUEL in lines to fire up an engine, if fuel pump is bad it will be one of problem. Do get the ignition timing adjusted to specs. It does not matter which frame it is rigged to. problem is in starting, which can be diagnosed to a).Bad Fuel pump b.) wrong ignition timing c.) bad tappets ( it is a shim over bucket ) engine which can cause crank labor

[mmsiddique]

thats what i wanted to know @mmsiddique indeed a 6 cylinder petrol need ENOUGH FUEL in lines to fire up an engine, if fuel pump is bad it will be one of problem. Do get the ignition timing adjusted to specs. It does not matter which frame it is rigged to. problem is in starting, which can be diagnosed to a).Bad Fuel pump b.) wrong ignition timing c.) bad tappets ( it is a shim over bucket ) engine which can cause crank labor

Thanks for your valuable feedback. Will update you after fuel pump fitting that I will do in the morning tomorrowg myself
just took confirm from your experienced opinion. Is there any difference between fuel filter for EFI and non EFI motors. By the fuel m filter I mean external fuel filter attached in fuel lines

[capsat]

the filter in fuel pump itself works under generated pressure, so adding another filter in-line will considerably drop the fuel pressure in injector lines and line may starve n cause intermittent hiccups. I do not recommend adding another filter in fuel line, unless one exist in original design. @mmsiddique sir

[MBILALNAWAZ]

@xulfiqar Dear sir I own a new wagon r arround 10k km driven as of now. The car came with 145-r13 tires. Car looked pathetic and had some serious road grip issues with the car swinging here and there. The same car is available in Indian and Indonesia with 175-70-r13. So I changed the tires to new bridgestone ecopia 175-70-r13 when it was 200km driven. As soon as the tires were changed to 175-70-r13 within few km there started a noise from left side. Noise is dak dak and comes only when car is on a rough patch and slow speed. It took me months to make Pak Suzuki believe there is noise in it. Upon some search I came to know there is some adjustmnet bush in steering rack which is lose and makes noise. Pak Suzuki on 5k km inspection said we have tightened it and there is no sound now. Upon my inspection I found it it was there. I have a busy schedule and cant go to them daily. So on 10k km I took day off from office and went to them . After 10k km service the sound was there and this time I drove the car on 1km long rough patch near karsaz to prove there is sound. I told them the lose bush thing 1st they said there is no bush and then I made them talk to a P.S outlet in rawlapindi who actually explained it to them that what is lose and how to tight it. It is some bush inside the rack and the whole cross member needs to be opened for it. They said that the left shock is faulty and needs to be replaced. As car is in warranty I dont mind it being claimed under warranty but I know it is not the fault. We have another Wagon R at home and has same issue. Both wagon r were booked and delivered together it is only 6500km driven. Can you please help me what to do? there is no vibration in steering justa duk duk sound its a shallow kinda noise that comes at rough patches like graveled road with slow speeds.

[mohsan87]

As soon as the tires were changed to 175-70-r13 within few km there started a noise from left side

That's why Pak suzuki is not using higher profile of tire for WagonR. please stick to OEM. they have chosen 145 for some reason.

[MBILALNAWAZ]

[quote="mohsan87, post:8080, topic:209322, full:true"]

As soon as the tires were changed to 175-70-r13 within few km there started a noise from left side

That's why Pak suzuki is not using higher profile of tire for WagonR. please stick to OEM. they have chosen 145 for some reason.

[/quote]

If that is the issue y the same car with same suspension is being offered with bigger tires bro? P.S actually looks for excuses if you check the pkdm wagon r thread it is a known fault.

[mmsiddique]

the filter in fuel pump itself works under generated pressure, so adding another filter in-line will considerably drop the fuel pressure in injector lines and line may starve n cause intermittent hiccups. I do not recommend adding another filter in fuel line, unless one exist in original design. @mmsiddique sir

Hi bro, can you please explain ignition timing and how identify if it is out. Please also enlighten for its fixing

[shahzaibtariq]

@Xulfiqar
Aslam.o.alikum.
Kindly guide me. I parked my car on sunday in garage. Today morning I checked air filter and oil condition then went to start car as always I do but car didn't start. Car is taking self but not starting. Don't know what is the issue. Even I have removed Frequency modulator. Waiting for your guidance