Ask Xulfiqar - An Automotive Encyclopedia

[capsat]

@mikehotel86

compression test is necessary for such oil consumption. 0321 4106898 Obama Car & Truck Centre 110 Tipu block garden town law_hore is place for your solution.

fuel consumption can be managed by ignition timing, am not sure what the gu is referring to timing belt adjustment ? is there any rattling noise in engine as well??

[hassanchaudhry11]

Hello
My car lancer 2006 1.3 manual 240k driven on petrol. Car engine shakes as if it is misfiring on cold start normally between 1.2 to 1k rpm. When the engine starts to warm up the rpm starts to decrease and when it passes around 1.2k down to 1k the engine shakes and it is even noticeable while sotting in cabin. While driving car heaitates around this rpm range. The car idles perfect with a slight raise in rpm when clutch pressed but returns to normal in a sec. I tried to unplug the tps sensor and with it unplugged idle rpm rises to arounD 1.8k and remains there. With ac it drops to 1k and when again tps is connected car idles ok. Also throttle response and worse with ac on till 2k rpm. When ever accelerate pushed from zero engine takes a dip and a slight shake before rpm rises. is very lowWhat can be the issue of shaking engine. A slight shake and hesitaion on pedal press and high rpm with tps unplugged

[sleeper]

Salam sir,

While members here on PW have guided regarding suspension repair stuff for cultus 08, i am still confused for following stuff;

Mileage 135k

• should i replace all (front and back) c-arm bushes irrespective they are still original and assuming that they have crossed their operational lives.
• pressing the c-arm ball joints would be enough for further few yrs?
• should i overhaul the Hyd power steering, considering it was never touched before. (O/H include change of fluid and seals?) The susp guy says fluid doesn't leak easily and that the pump slowly looses its power over time, whch is why its a bit hard and leave it as it is.

Its all very basic for you but would still need ur guidance.

[capsat]

135000
please remember there is a life for every mechanical moving part & the rubber bushes.
if the work is never done before it is time you change the respective parts & bushes with OEM new items.
Hydraulic fluid also need to be changed, Locate a thread using search glass option "how to flush power steering fluid"

It is man made vehicle not Throne of Soleman which never required any maintenance

"flag the post if it creates some pressure over bladder or heart"

[sleeper]

Indeed all parts have life. But as u know these mechanics\susp guys try to do as less work as possible, whch is why he said to leave "original" parts there. Can u recommend affordable bushes, any name or made in xxx ??

I will search regarding power steering fluid flush.

[capsat]

suzuki is 80% locally assembled brand. I'd suggest spare some time and look around for parts only vendors. there are authorised spare part shops other then 3S. They will be in better position to recommend product in your town

[Xulfiqar]

The susp guy says fluid doesn't leak easily and that the pump slowly looses its power over time

this is something that needs to be snapped and framed in some museum.

[Xulfiqar]

inspect the ball joints for play, if they are tight they are ok, Inspect the bushings and replace them as required. Tighten the bushings at ready to drive height only, otherwise the bushings will tear out in a week or month. (this is extremely important step)

All parts are plenty available at any shop selling suzuki stuff. Replace the power steering oil with new (very easy). This is best practice for long life of parts. Your suzuki takes regular automatic transmission oil as power steering oil.

[UAHMAD]

Although everything has been explained by the senior members I would add some points here regarding the suspension problems:

1. Suspension parts wear with time, but if one has bought a used car and is unsure about its service history then condition of the suspension components can be checked by visual inspection. Any looseness (play) of ball joints, stabilizer links, tie rod ends etc. or cuts on rubber are the signs of being worn out.

2. The clunking and rattling sounds (due to metal to metal contact when rubber parts have worn out) and vibrations coming from the suspension are signs of potential problems. Also, looseness of steering and a loss of control during braking, cornering etc.

3. At times worn out shock mountings/foundations are also the cause of uneven ride and noise.

4. The brake calipers should also be inspected for improper fitting of slider pins. These can also produce a knocking noise.

Please correct where I'm mistaken.

[sleeper]

Thank sir for ur response.

If the ball joints are loose then we get it pressed?

I m thinking to change all bushes, because wouldnt it be odd to have few of em new and few old, and the old ones would go bad even right nxt day.

Also, I think i can see the rear bushes and they are cracked\torn, so thats a must change.

Noted, regarding the final tighten of bushes at drive height.
Noted regarding pwr steerin oil change.

@UAHMAD thanks for ur inputs also.

[Xulfiqar]

pressing doesnt usually work unless the shop has made a proper 3 jaw press for it. Hammering it doesnt work. The balljoints on your car ride on a nylon cup in the housing and the ball is chromed or finely polished. They are not oldschool metal on metal with grease fitting (which are great as long as you keep on greasing them every 6 months)

[sleeper]

So its better to change it, in case they are loose. I believe 3 jaw press wouldn't be easily available here in khi.

[sleeper]

@abid110 bhai, can u review what Zulfiqar sir has guided\advised in few posts above regarding suspension work.....can your suspension guy do this work easily, specially the pressing of ball joints if required.

[pwuser152533991444]

Edited

[waleed2409]

@Xulfiqar bhai i need your advice on some things please.

I have bought a honda civic 1998 vti manual and the problem i am facing is that with AC on, when i press clutch to change my gear, the RPM drop is faster then normal and it drops down to 500 or even below this sometimes. Without ac its perfectly fine. Only when ac is on and ac compressor clutch is engaged it faces this problem. Idel RPN is good with and without AC (approx 750).
I have changed the fuel filter, it was extremely dirty, i have cleaned the throttle body and IACV which was also very dirty. Drive is a lot better and smooth after these things but this one problem is still persisting.
Also i have checked there seems to be no vacuum leak.
Also i think it might be related that when the AC is on, i can feel the engine take a lot of load whenever the ac compressor clutch is engaged and when it switches off i can feel the engine suddenly become lighter and rpm rise a bit also with same paddle pressure. Little bit of jerk is also experienced with the ac switching on and off (owing to the loading and unloading of the engine by ac compressor).
Is it normal for old model cars to feel this reduction in engine power when the ac compressor is turned on and vice versa or not?

P.S. By clutch engage i mean that ac compressor is turning on. (pardon if i used wrong terms)

[Xulfiqar]

Hi

Is the base idle set correctly and is the ac wired properly through ecu?

[waleed2409]

Thankyou for replying . Will check these things and get back to you

[pwuser158913575038]

@Xulfiqar bhai. U say that mehran radiator fan is useless at best. I agree with you but if it is useless, what should we swap it with? Any particular car or model? Also should i swap it next time i change coolant?

[tariqazama]

Xulfiqar bhai, my Prado with 1kz te engine is giving much black smoke when i press the throttle. I visited a diesel laboratory in peshawar and the person said that he is authorized Denso lab. He checked and dismantlled the injection nozzles and said that these are not nozzles of 1kz te but someone has fitted nozzles of 2C in it. So thats why they are not working properly. Please tell should i change them immediately or should continue with 2c ones.

[sheribaba555]

@Xulfiqar assalam o alaikum sir...i have jdm alto 2008 model aka chand alto manual transmission. I have recently bought it and after some days its 3rd gear start making problem and noises like after putting 3rd gear the gear not getting intact properly and pulling out itself with making noise(charrrrrrr) then i have to push again and again and it intacts some time properly...
So i checked by myslef and find out that gear lever-gear wire rubber bush was damaged....so i got the replacement bush from chah sultan from old parts shop and put it...and its still giving the same problem...gear pulling out toward neutral but not actually in neutral with noise mentioned above...please note that every other gear is working perfect except 3rd gear...
Today i visited rehman auto workshop faizabad rawalpindi and the mechanic said without checking the car that its cable problem...but ihave checked the cable throughout and its ok and every other gear is getting intact properly except the 3rd one...
Pictures are attached for reference
Ihope you will get my point and help me...
Thankyou in advance