Ask Xulfiqar - An Automotive Encyclopedia

[umarkhanbaloch]

@Xulfiqar
Which engine oil should i use in Yamaha yb 100 2 stroke
Right now i am using shell 2t oil in crankcase and side tappa also.Is it a correct oil??
And what about mixing gear oil with oil?? What is this myth?

[Xulfiqar]

You are using 2t oil in the crankcase?

[umarkhanbaloch]

Yes and in side taapa too

[Xulfiqar]

2T oil is only used in side tank, the crankcase uses regular api sf 10w40 or 20w40 (cd70 oil tin/bottle)

2T oil is designed to burn cleanly but has no protection for any gearsets or any extreme pressure bearings or meshings neither does it have any traction additives for the clutch.

[krafiq]

@Xulfiqar
Have been reading up on radiator cleaning with radiator flush/ tatri solution.
I have removed the AC system plus blower from the car. Now the heater cannot be turned on ( I am assuming the AC system and heater core are connected, excuse my ignorance)
Will the radiator be cleaned in absence of heating turned on?

[Xulfiqar]

With heater disconnected, you can loop the lines back to engine, it will clean the engine and radiator.

[brownrose78]

@Xulfiqar
1.During radiator service by your tartri base neutralization method, do it also clean heater core too and bring rust out from there?

2.Even some staff of 3S dealers suggest to remove heater connection after winter season and remove those pipes to optimize the A/C performance in Summer. Is really this myth have any impact that if we keep connected the heater core, A/c will not give optimal performance in Summer or inner core (Freezer Dabba) will get frequent leak due to this?

3.If we want to disconnect heater core connections, what is the method to extract water from inside there? Will water present there if we remove or disconnect pipes or will it fall away itself or not

[helper_learner]

1.During radiator service by your tartri base neutralization method, do it also clean heater core too and bring rust out from there?

Yes, but better to clean it separately.

2.Even some staff of 3S dealers suggest to remove heater connection after winter season and remove those pipes to optimize the A/C performance in Summer. Is really this myth have any impact that if we keep connected the heater core, A/c will not give optimal performance in Summer or inner core (Freezer Dabba) will get frequent leak due to this?

No, It will only affect AC's performance if the inner gates (don't know there name), are leak.

3.If we want to disconnect heater core connections, what is the method to extract water from inside there? Will water present there if we remove or disconnect pipes or will it fall away itself or not

Don't do it, If you do it, Blow some air in it, and water / coolant will come out.

[Xulfiqar]

Is really this myth have any impact that if we keep connected the heater core, A/c will not give optimal performance in Summer or inner core (Freezer Dabba) will get frequent leak due to this?

what radio channels are you tuning into?

[Xulfiqar]

1.During radiator service by your tartri base neutralization method, do it also clean heater core too and bring rust out from there?

The heater core will also be flushed out if its connected, It wont drain itself as its pipes sit higher than the actual core/radiator/jaali itself - it needs a water supply to be used to push out the liquid or use an air blower to push out, do this 2 or 3 times to blow it out completely as it does trap liquid there due to being plumbed like a U shaped object.

[pwuser162557941033]

Hey, @Xulfiqar, would appreciate your advice on this. Currently running Delo Gold Ultra 15W-40 after a head gasket replacement.

[Xulfiqar]

You can probably find 5w30 api sn havoline for use, it doesnt use zinc but instead uses calcium add pack for high pressure wear. You have to make sure that you dont choose a petrol engine oil that is beyond w30 spec or if choosing a w40 make sure its on the lighter side (like euro spec)

Diesel oils are fantastic but will cause a bit of drag on your engine.

[pwuser162557941033]

Yes I do think I'm being robbed of a few horses on the 40 wt. Delo Gold Ultra, especially with air conditioning on. It also takes longer for the oil light to go off on cold start. That said, we don't seem to have a 5W-30 SN available.

My oil pressure light was on at 1000rpm with 10.1 cSt full synthetic Valvoline 5W-30, the Delo Gold is 15.0 cSt, so I've got to find something in the middle.

In the Havoline range, we've got:

• Formula 10W-30 | API SN-Plus RC Mineral | 10.4 cSt, 800ppm Zn, 700ppm P
• ProDS Eco 5W-30 | API SP Full Synthetic | 10.7 cSt, 760ppm Zn, 660ppm P
• ProDS Eco 5W-40 | API SP Full Synthetic | 13.75 cSt, 890ppm Zn, 770ppm P
• Extra 10W-40 | API SL Mineral | 15.0 cSt, 1100ppm Zn, 1000ppm P

Here's some more oils available locally I've collected data on, sorted by cSt @ 100°C:

I'm reluctant to try anything under 11 cSt given the oil pressure light at idle when the car is warm.

Importantly though, are you suggesting SM, SN or SP oils have successors to ZDDP as part of an anti-wear package that perform the same function for flat tappet engines? In that case, I might just get a nice SP, high VI synthetic with a ~12cSt KI and get some nice filters for an extended drain interval. Maybe a 0W-40 for faster cold flow and decreased startup wear?

[brownrose78]

Sir so what should i derive conclusion? Is it wise or sensible decision to remove heater core connections after the left over of winter season in cities like Karachi?

[Xulfiqar]

No its not

Leave the system intact, it works perfectly and is maintenance free.

[Xulfiqar]

I would first address the oil pressure issue rather than apply band aids to mitigate it

[pwuser162557941033]

True. However, with 10.1cSt 5W-30 full syn oil, the low pressure light would only come on at 950-1000rpm. Driving or revving the engine even slightly would make the light go away. I understand the light comes on at extremely low pressures, though.

Parts are hard to find and while I search for and import new bearings, journals and oil pump, it's still my daily driver. I only just got my hands on a new genuine timing belt, water pump, and tensioner, and the car just clocked 50,000km.

Apart from worn bearings, journals or bad oil pump/pickup, any other reasons the oil pressure light could come on? Also, the SAE 30-weight spec goes from 9.3 to 12.5 cSt. Should I get a modern full-syn oil that sits further towards 12 cSt while I remedy the low oil pressure issue?

[pwuser15609321293]

AoA @Xulfiqar Bhai.
Need your opinion. Yesterday after a drive of around 3-5 KM I observe water on my engine plastic sheet that is beneath the engine. Check the radiator coolant was upto the radiator tank , check the reservoir bottle level was okay there too. Not sure where that water came from? Is it the water pump leakage? Try to check the different pipes and hoses and all seems to be dry. The water on plastic sheet dried in good 3-4 minutes. Also last night temperature was 16C a bit cold I was seeing white smoke from the exhaust not sure if it was steam or white smoke. Car in question is Honda City 2012 model. Can you please guide and help.

[pwuser15609321293]

Update on the thread. The car through the road where it was water and water splashes came inside plastic sheild.

[hasankhurshid29]

@Xulfiqar bhai
Will you still recommend this coolant at this price point?