Best Engine oil for old engines. (1993)

[shahzad_anwar]

Mates,

I guess, its not all about the company names, but the car's made year as well. I heard that for older cars having CARBON inside shouldn't get all the carbon removed from the engine (though this would keep the oil clean) since ones the good/expensive oils remove these carbon particles from your engine, your engine wud start reducing the oil, or blowing the smoke, needing you to get the rings/piston work.

What is all that mess-up, there are 2 types of ratings one is SAE and the other is API (American Petroleum Institute) Rating. As far as API is concerned, I surffed the net that SJ is the current ratings and all before this like SG,SF,SD are depreciated long ago.

And about SAE, I don't understand these 20w-50 (20 Winter) and viscoisity factor of oil.

Please someone guides me and others about these things. For older cary cars, which oils are good???

I have seen a paper of Shell Helix, segregating their oils into 3 categories, one is for cars under 7 years, 2nd under 10 and 3rd above 13 years......so for 13 yrs and older, they recommend Shell Helix HX3 G (the red dabba with CNG, G @ end is for GAS)

@syncview , I am synced with your views, since I have been using the same and now turned to it once again after getting oil reduction issues with Havoline.

Simply, I guess for older engine, don't go with expensive oils, but you may go for expensive one if you have a new car (zero meter, since you wud know the carbon sticking inside the engine)

[aomair]

h2Which viscosity grade is right for you?/h2

a/a

h2SAE Viscosity Grade Motor Oil: 5W-30/h2

Temperature Conditions: Below -18^C
Description: Provides excellent fuel economy and low temperature performance in most late-model automobiles. Especially recommended for new cars.

a/a

h2SAE Viscosity Grade Motor Oil: 10W-30/h2

Temperature Conditions: Above -18^C
Description: Most frequently recommended motor oil viscosity grade for most automobile engines, including high-performance multivalve engines and turbo-charged engines.

a/a

h2SAE Viscosity Grade Motor Oil: 10W-40/h2

Temperature Conditions: Above -18^C
Description: The first multigrade introduced. A good choice for controlling engine wear and preventing oil breakdown from oxidation. Note: Always check your owner's manual or warranty requirements before using this grade.

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h2SAE Viscosity Grade Motor Oil: 20W-50/h2

Temperature Conditions: Above -7^C
Description: Provides maximum protection for high-performance, high-RPM racing engines. Excellent choice for high temperature and heavy loads such as driving in the desert or towing a trailer at high speeds for long periods of time.

a/a

h2SAE Viscosity Grade Motor Oil: SAE 30 & SAE 40/h2

Temperature Conditions: Above 4^C & Above 16^C
Description: For cars and light trucks, where recommended by manufacturers. Not recommended when cold-temperature starting is required.

Note: It is important to consult your vehicle handbook to establish the correct grade for your car and environment.

[shahzad_anwar]

But in Pakistan, we mostly get 20W-50, which is also recommended for old vehicles.

And what about 10W-40 ? is this good for old cars or new?

[ahmadwaqas]

Tried Shell Helix HX3 G this time but the problem remains the same. The oil level is significantly dropped.

I came to the point that
Although the good oil does matter for ur engine performance But it is not like that burning problem is because of bad oils. There is certainly a problem in engine.

I have changed the engine rings two weeks ago but the Head part was not opened by my mechanic as it seemed to be OK.
After searching on internet I came to the point that one or more of the head valve seals might be leak. The reason for that is
1- THere is white smoke occasionally not always. specially when I stop on the signals for a min or two and then accelerate there is white smoke visible.
2- There is white smoke visible when Engine is hot on the elevation and I accelerate it hard.

Plz comment in above situations. If it is head that is causing problem or any other problem(might be bad CNG settings)

[asyed00]

Mostly old engines have carbon deposits in it. When you change to higher API level engine oil that has more detergent and starts cleaning the engine from inside. This causes smoke (as carbon burns out) and secondly oil level decreases. That is why it is always said before shifting to any other oil do check the API level of oil used before and now. Now coming to GTX, they have departed from PSO and PSO has its own oil range now. People who were using can try PSO Carient Plus, that is same level to GTX. Secondly it is the cheapest available in market in comparison with Castrol, Shell and Caltex. The quality is same and in cheap price. Thirdly always try to buy oil from petrol pumps as they have genuine oil while at times spare part shops might not have genuine oil. As far as SAE level (viscosity) matters 10W40 or 20W50 shows how much the oil will be viscous at certain temperature. As per Pakistani weather it is advisable to use 20W50 or 10W40 SAE level oils. In summer areas that have extreme hot weather 20W50 is advisable.

Hope that helps all friends.

[ahmadwaqas]

What about my assumption of Leaked Valve seals

How I can check without opening the engine if there is a problem in Head

[msm]

[shahzad_anwar]

@asyed00

I strongly agree with you. So, please brief that wot could be done if we had mistakenly changed/inserted high level API oil in car that cleaned the carbon inside. Can't we regenerate that carbon without RING works, just by putting normal DIESEL car engine oil in petrol car, that has very high viscousity like Shell Remulla C etc. Cycling that oil in car for a period of six months won't create carbon inside engine again, filling up gaps asides RINGs etc?

[Auni]

DEAR
i have to say that your engine not overhauled properly and it must be checked again
an overhalued engine never drop oil level

[SER_GTR]

Caltex Havoline

Caltex CNG....!! 20w-50 Will Work Fine......!!

Get It Sealed From Any Big Store Or Caltex Pump.....Caltex Is No 1 In All In Maintaining Quality...(y)

Regards

[shahzad_anwar]

Yes, CALTEX Havoline might be the best for new cars, but not for OLDY GOLDY cars, since you know it has detergents in that that gets the CARBON stucked inside out, causing your ride smoke out and oil decreasing.

[ahmadwaqas]

After running about 1000 kms I have put more than half a litre of oil but less than a litre into the engine. Oil used was Shell Helix HX3 G. Do you think that the detergents were burnt to clean the carbon. and there is no problem with the engine.

One thing to mention is when I stop for a minute or two there is much white smoke visible. But during driving there is no smoke visible.

[shahzad_anwar]

I guess, when the car starts reducing oil, so there is something wrong with engine as well and that someting is the extraction of carbon from the edges of pistons, making gap at sides that allows oil to go down and burn, that turns into smoke as well.
What we can do is to cycle engine with some mineral oil 2,3 times, that may cause building carbon onces again into engines.

[asyed00]

Thanks Shehzad, but you cannot just get the carbon back by using low grade lubricant. The carbon in engine comes after long use of engine like 5-6 years or more than that before anyone gets engine overhaul. It is not that easy to get it back and engines should be clean from carbon, thats the reason higher API oils have more detergency. Even if engine is reducing oil, do check the oil level on regaular basis better daily and top-up with same oil as oil mixup can harm engine too. Once engine is cleaned, oil reduction and smoke will stop.
Try to get carbon back is not the solution.
That is the reason it is always said when overhauling the engine it is better to change rings & piston even though it is costly so the engine comes as zero-meter.

Regarding oil, please note all oil are of same quality depending on their API level. But it is better to use branded lubricants like Shell, Caltex, PSO & Total. Local blenders at times use recycled base oil.

[shahzad_anwar]

@syed00,

Thanks for your this much ellaborating things. Yes, you are very true that carbon doesn't come so quick. I think we can use normal DEISEL engine oil in our petrol car to produce carbon in the engine, since it is higher in viscosity.

I guess, mostly it is recommended to overhaul the engine rather than just changing rings/pistons, as the problem comes after short time again.

[tyrant_heart]

bro go fo caltex any brand i use dat cng one and i also hve 14 yr old car and engine recently overhauld and caltex gives gr8 mileage as compared to shell and no reductn in oil at all.

i m using dat fo 2 yrz and no compliants at all bt imp thng is get it changd max after 3.5k i get it after 3k.

[omer1990]

i am facing da same problem on my nissan sunny 1998 wid 181,000 kms on the dial but oil level only drops on highways in city it is perfectly fine
ny suggestions:(
n m using caltex havoline frm a long time............

[asyed00]

Omer, Get your car engine oil seals checked. Might thats the problem.

[asifcharade]

20W-50 works fine for old cars of early 1990's

[ahmadwaqas]

On week end I have gone for opening the engine head. And Engine Valve seals were found damaged. So only seals were replaced. Now there is no white smoke visible. Will update you of oil level after checking it for a week.

Thanks to all for value able suggestions