CB350 rebuild at home

[msabbasi]

before making direct connection i was like i have to remove the direct + wire to coil but you know i just forgot to remove it herhe

i will again try to start it today let see if am successful than sure will post the video

Yasir sir gee good luck. This time remember to disconnect the coil when it is not in use. Also remeber one more thing ... carefull with the petrol. Coils, open temporary connections and petrol/petrol fumes don't mix well. When mixed these things are known to lead to a very warm fire.

[yasirsa]

Thank to Almighty Allah she is breathing finaly ll share the video thank you Abbasi sab vicky and everyone who supported and prayed for my project

[vickytulla]

zabardast... cant weight to hear its engines making its signature note "Boodak" "Dadaak" "Boodak" "Dadaak" "Boodak" "Dadaak" .....

Thank to Almighty Allah she is breathing finaly ll share the video thank you Abbasi sab vicky and everyone who supported and prayed for my project

[yasirsa]

yar how to reduce video size :S

[margallar]

Congratulations brother, it must feel very nice to do everything yourself and to your satisfaction.

[yasirsa]

what site should i upload video ?

[yasirsa]

thank you margaller (Y) ofcoruse it was first tear down and sucessfull rebuild

[margallar]

try dailymotion

[yasirsa]

https://vimeo.com/m/85951477

Sent from my LT26i using PW Forums mobile app

[msabbasi]

thank you margaller (Y) ofcoruse it was first tear down and sucessfull rebuild

bahaut.....bahaut Mubarik!!!

Very nice steady beat of the engine. No smoke. No misfire. No noises from the crank end . You were wise to have just let the engine run at a low speed. Initially keep the engine at low RPM. You can run the bike for say 500 Km or so not exceeding 3000-4000 RPM (running in period).

Please check the engine temperatures at different location especially at bush locations (by hand) to detect any hot spots. Hot spots indicate trouble.

[yasirsa]

thank you Abbasi sab

just a small bottle was attached for fuel supply when i squeezes it the speeds goes high i wanted to adjust the idle speed but engine was heating up i some where read that air cooled engine shouldnt be run without giving fan air at first startup . 1 thing is confirm that engine is ok Alhamdullillah

now i have to install wiring and other parts let see

[msabbasi]

thank you Abbasi sab

just a small bottle was attached for fuel supply when i squeezes it the speeds goes high i wanted to adjust the idle speed but engine was heating up i some where read that air cooled engine shouldnt be run without giving fan air at first startup . 1 thing is confirm that engine is ok Alhamdullillah

now i have to install wiring and other parts let see

Yes you should provide a cooling fan. But more importantly, the cooling of the cylinder walls is done by the internal oil spray. It is important that the cylinder walls are being adequately lubricated. Is there any way that you can check the oil pressure within the engine? My old Triumph had a small plug where I could connect an oil pressure gauge. Generally speaking for a cold engine, oil pressure around 60psi is good but that will fall as the oil heats up and becoms thinner.

[yasirsa]

there is a bolt where i can check the oil comming to the head if i open that bolt the oil comes out from there would it be the same location ?but i dont have pressure gauage tool

[msabbasi]

there is a bolt where i can check the oil comming to the head if i open that bolt the oil comes out from there would it be the same location ?but i dont have pressure gauage tool

I made the tool myself. Got a 0-100psi pressure gauge from a science or a/c parts store. Got a tube that will sustain 100 psi (the tube from car a/c gas checking tool is OK). And the last thing was to get some fittings (adapters) made that will tighten to the bike at one end and the hose at the other plus another one that will fit at one end to the gauge and the other to the hose.

One point is that the pressure is checked before the oil bypass valve in the engine. If you check the oil at the head, you will note very low pressure.

[yasirsa]

abbasi sab there is 1 bolt located in head near point plate don't know any other bolts to check lower end oil pressure . will try to make gauge like you describe. i think 200 to 300 psi would help me to check cylinder compression ?

i was busy trying to make some switches and handle bars footrest for my bike i also bought 1 gas tank for modification purpose

[yasirsa]

any photoshoper can paint this tank for me?

[msabbasi]

abbasi sab there is 1 bolt located in head near point plate don't know any other bolts to check lower end oil pressure . will try to make gauge like you describe. i think 200 to 300 psi would help me to check cylinder compression ?

i was busy trying to make some switches and handle bars footrest for my bike i also bought 1 gas tank for modification purpose

Having a tool to check the compression is a good idea. Only thing is that normally a compression tool has a check valve that can trap the air from the pressure pulse of the piston in the gauge so you can read it properly. Then there a small release valve to evacuate the air so that the pressure gauge needle can go back to zero. If you don't have the check valve, the gauge needle will bounce about and you will not be able to read the correct pressure.

Regarding the oil reading, go ahead and check the oil pressure at the location you are referring to. By default oil pressure at this location will be a fraction of the pressure near the pressure release valve. The reason for a large drop in pressure at the head is because the oil is going to the main bearing, to the big end bearings, from there it is travelling to the small end bearing or gudgeon pin, then it is sprayed on the cylinder walls. At the same time, a portion of oil is directed via passages in the block and head for it to reach the camshafts etc. So in effect the head is the last place for the oil to reach by that time a huge pressure drop has already occured. Anyhow, all I can say is that if you get a health pressure at the head, then surely the pressure at the gudgeon pins should be pretty good too.

[vickytulla]

which picture ?

It would be much better if you give a complete picture of a Bike from Side WHile Bike is standing straight like this :

In this position tank Color can be changed and decide very easily ...

any photoshoper can paint this tank for me?

[mohammadsajid]

[QUOTE=yasirsa;4237109]https://vimeo.com/m/85951477
Yasir sahib. Masha Allah Tbarak Allah. Very good. I was away from the internet for almost one week. So could not share your sense of achievement on your first kick start. congratulations for such a performance. Once again Mabrook . ( الف مبروووووك) (one thousand Mubarkaan).

[yasirsa]

abbasi sab can you show me your compression check tool ? so later i may made 1 . and 1 more thing while the bike was start i open tappet cover the oil was very nicely dropping on cam shaft and was seem like cam is dip in oil. currently am making foot rest for the bike and have lots of work to do . chotay kamoo nay phansa k rakh dia hay i have to consider every angle welding making holes for break and gear shifts any how . thank you for your vist and giving time to my thread and very informative comments.

Having a tool to check the compression is a good idea. Only thing is that normally a compression tool has a check valve that can trap the air from the pressure pulse of the piston in the gauge so you can read it properly. Then there a small release valve to evacuate the air so that the pressure gauge needle can go back to zero. If you don't have the check valve, the gauge needle will bounce about and you will not be able to read the correct pressure.

Regarding the oil reading, go ahead and check the oil pressure at the location you are referring to. By default oil pressure at this location will be a fraction of the pressure near the pressure release valve. The reason for a large drop in pressure at the head is because the oil is going to the main bearing, to the big end bearings, from there it is travelling to the small end bearing or gudgeon pin, then it is sprayed on the cylinder walls. At the same time, a portion of oil is directed via passages in the block and head for it to reach the camshafts etc. So in effect the head is the last place for the oil to reach by that time a huge pressure drop has already occured. Anyhow, all I can say is that if you get a health pressure at the head, then surely the pressure at the gudgeon pins should be pretty good too.