Disclaimer:
1. This is A FAILED DIY as of the moment.
2. The purpose of this thread is to share findings learned during the process so that future members dont waste precious time and resources (on Clock Spring and Cruise Buttons) unless a workable solution is discovered
3. The method of switch implementation may be HIGHLY UNCOMFORTABLE to some. But its based on two dominant factors:
One: To check if the car does support such a functionality
Two: My Motorway Travels are not that frequent. So I find the initial cost of setup to be unrealistic based on my use of the feature. However, if it had worked out, I MIGHT have implemented the steering control in future. MIGHT!!!!
4. Efforts are underway to sort the issue out. However nothing can be said at this point whether it will OR will not work out.
5. No Wires.......I REPEAT......NO OEM Wires were cut or Stripped in the process. Just additional connections were made.
Since my cluster test post on the Honda City Fan Club, I had been eager to check out the probability of Cruise Control in Honda City 5th Gen.
However, lack of motivation to open up the car once more (after DIY Audio Setup Installations in the past) and lack of time prevented me from trying it out.
Eventually, I gave in to my curiosity and went ahead to try it out.
Operational Philosophy (in this particular DBW):
1. Buttons are wired to Cluster for Signals
2. Cluster Communicates to ECM to hold a particular speed
3. Brake Switch sends direct signal to ECM to disengaged cruise.
Wiring Philosophy:
1. CRUISE MAIN: Wire from Cluster Pin 22 (Black in my case), has to be grounded to Enable Cruise Main. So its wired through a Latched switch to chassis ground. Although G501 is recommended, any ground can be used (IMHO).
SET: Wire from Cluster Pin 20 (Red in mY case) has to be fed signaled through Horn Switch wire (Orange wire going to steering wheel for Horn. This is actually at 12V Horn Relay Downside and goes to zero when Horn is activated). This is wired through a Momentary Switch.
RESUME: Wire from Cluster Pin 19 (Also Red in mY case) has to be fed signaled through Horn Switch wire (Orange wire going to steering wheel). This is also wired through a Momentary Switch.
Fusebox to Brake Switch with NC: A wire from Fuse Box (a point that has 12V when Ignition is On) to a brake switch that has two circuits. An NO (Normally OPEN) circuit to engage brake lights and tell ECU to cut power. And an NC (Normally Closed) circuit to tell ECU to disengage Cruise.
Brake Switch NC to ECU A41: A wire from Pin 2 of NC contact to be routed to ECM as per service manual
ITEMS Required:
- Wiring Cable 4mm (Color codes can be as per choice and availability)
- Thimbles (Electronic connector type as well as Horn Connector Type)
- Crimping Tool
- Wire Stripping Tool
- 5Amp Fuse
- Heat Shrink Tube
- A 4-Wire (2 contacts) Brake Switch
- 03 Fog Light Switches
CREDITS:
@zunny @spano @fireblade
Without these guys I would have been banging my head because I was left with three fancy switches on the DASH that do nothing However, the switches still do nothing but the fellows helped a lot.
@zunny
Zulqarnain Bhai was helping me all the way from UK. What more can anyone want
@spano
Had a very detailed discussion with Ehtasham Bhai. I was in ISB with Mohsin (Maxtorque) when he gave me a pointer to talk to Ehtasham. I am sure he helped me out in every possible way that one can and that too sitting remotely on a phone call.
@fireblade
Qasim bhai went ahead of his way to research and figure out possible shortcomings in the City's install. He did advise me to use the manual in its all essence and dont bypass. But I was a lazy bum to not try it out as yet.
Thanks alot Guys. Please do let me know if anyone finds a lead on something.
Let the pictures in post 2 explain further. I'll add the description as required.