Diesel engine health

[mwanwar]

If you are experiencing smoke from the intercooler than you have an overactive, stuck or bad EGR valve, this also causes the exhaust to smoke and the engine to lose torque.

Run a full scan on it and test the EGR, a good mechanic can spot it easily.

My engine would give blow and all of intercooler would get dirty with blow. So I removed blowpipe and put it in a plactic bottle with outlets for exhaust fumes but woukd store any larger deposits of engine oil. Now after abt 3 weeks I can see 1/8 lit of engine oil inside that bottle. The car is amazingly fast when turbo kicks in. Its slow and heavy at low rpm. At around 900-1400 rpm engine shivers and then it goes away.

Should I change the engine

Sent from my GT-I9500 using PW Forums mobile app

[mwanwar]

Xulfiqar bhai this is the issue which I stated above is faced by a friend in his jero yesterday he went to a mechanic and it was diagnosed that ac pulley alignment was out what impact will it have on engine

Sent from my GT-I9500 using PW Forums mobile app

[Xulfiqar]

My engine would give blow and all of intercooler would get dirty with blow. So I removed blowpipe and put it in a plactic bottle with outlets for exhaust fumes but woukd store any larger deposits of engine oil. Now after abt 3 weeks I can see 1/8 lit of engine oil inside that bottle. The car is amazingly fast when turbo kicks in. Its slow and heavy at low rpm. At around 900-1400 rpm engine shivers and then it goes away.

Should I change the engine

Sent from my GT-I9500 using PW Forums mobile app

the oily blowby is normal, and dont worry about the scant amount of oil in the intercooler - its cleaned out in normal running and then in the 30,000 kms service.

If your engine shivers at low rpm then test the injectors duty cycle and the fuel pressure dump valve duty cycle and rail pressure. The toyota tech stream can test this. Repair as necessary.

The oily blowby is beneficial for the intake valve stems - dont disconnect it. Also make sure the EGR is not slow to react or stuck open or leaking.

[Dongskie]

@Xulfiqar

My friend has a 2CT and is complaining of poor acceleration, excessive fuel consumption and black smoke during acceleration.

What should I look into?

Should I test when the boost engages?

Thanks mate!

[Xulfiqar]

you first need to check the model of the engine and if its a 2C turbo with intercooler or without, If its mechanical pump type then check the boost signal line to the aneroid device on the pump.

[waqasch1]

interesting and informative thread, against the Ustad's "Myth of Diesel Engines".

would appreciate some guidance on the following issues faced in 4d56 TDi in Pajero Gen II. Engine does not have blow and black smoke is also rare.

• recently (i.e. in summer), 1st start in the morning has become troublesome with white smoke on starting. Normal starting throughout the day. Mechanic has famously diagnosed Fuel Pump Krwa Lu, and I might have gone for it but it was serviced not very long ago for 8k and it seems there might be a more logical route as Nozzles etc and then Pump. Would LiqiMoly Diesel Purge be of any help in this case.

• mileage has dropped to 6.5-7km/ltr on highways. Have seen above 9.5km/ltr regularly on 4d56TDi. Mechanic diagnosed it seems ur Turbo is not working and replace the Turbo and then we will tune the engine properly and it should go to around 10km/ltr, this was a logic I could not comprehend.

• turbo has oil and the whistle sound is missing, so assume a shot turbo. Now should a rebuild kit be used or buy Kabli? Mechanics seem to be afraid of Turbo rebuilds.

Might not be able to report back quickly as away for work and looking for a Mechanic which is willing to accept a logic other than what was learnt from his Ustad.

[Dongskie]

you first need to check the model of the engine and if its a 2C turbo with intercooler or without, If its mechanical pump type then check the boost signal line to the aneroid device on the pump.

Surplus 2C-T came from Liteace Japan version.

[Xulfiqar]

Surplus 2C-T came from Liteace Japan version.

that would have the larger CT12 turbo with no intercooler and runs about 7 psi boost pressure, is the pump fully mechanical and have the aneroid on top of it?

[Xulfiqar]

interesting and informative thread, against the Ustad's "Myth of Diesel Engines".

would appreciate some guidance on the following issues faced in 4d56 TDi in Pajero Gen II. Engine does not have blow and black smoke is also rare.

- recently (i.e. in summer), 1st start in the morning has become troublesome with white smoke on starting. Normal starting throughout the day. Mechanic has famously diagnosed Fuel Pump Krwa Lu, and I might have gone for it but it was serviced not very long ago for 8k and it seems there might be a more logical route as Nozzles etc and then Pump. Would LiqiMoly Diesel Purge be of any help in this case.

- mileage has dropped to 6.5-7km/ltr on highways. Have seen above 9.5km/ltr regularly on 4d56TDi. Mechanic diagnosed it seems ur Turbo is not working and replace the Turbo and then we will tune the engine properly and it should go to around 10km/ltr, this was a logic I could not comprehend.

- turbo has oil and the whistle sound is missing, so assume a shot turbo. Now should a rebuild kit be used or buy Kabli? Mechanics seem to be afraid of Turbo rebuilds.

Might not be able to report back quickly as away for work and looking for a Mechanic which is willing to accept a logic other than what was learnt from his Ustad.

It would be best to start with valve clearances and glow plugs to isolate the cold start problem, If both test good check the starter and battery for good condition - diesel engines require a very powerful starter system specially if they are 4 cylinder.

If your mechanic decided that the turbo is bad, did he measure the boost pressure? or just said that he "thinks" the turbo is bad.

Go systematically - the engine was designed systematically and follows cause/effect rule - the designers were not doing "I think this is a good idea" - thinking costs money.

[waqasch1]

^Thanks, will follow the sequence i.e. valve clearance > Glow Plugs > Starter and Battery > (assuming) fuel injection system.

If your mechanic decided that the turbo is bad, did he measure the boost pressure? or just said that he "thinks" the turbo is bad.

No he didnt measure anything, his logic was alot of Oil in Turbo and Intercooler.

Go systematically - the engine was designed systematically and follows cause/effect rule - the designers were not doing "I think this is a good idea" - thinking costs money.

Couldn't agree more.

[ali_ak]

Hey Xulfiqar.

I was trying to diagnose my 1990 corolla 2.0D, 2C engine, and you were off these days. So happy to see u

Now problem is till few days ago it was starting good but now its a little long self.

Mileage is hardly 7 to 8 km/ litre, from 10-11 km of better days (4wd car)

Don't feel the power, feel under power on AC start (AC compresses is week as well).

Dont know where to go, seals of pump were replaced a year ago (hardly3000 KMs).

Car condition:
Timing belt breakage caused replacement of cam shaft and some valves.
AC compressor is week as well, mechanic has told me to replace it ( not sure if it effects performance)
Mileage 157,000
Car remain almost unused in last 10 years, bad luck that engine was broken.

Kindly guide me, I have engineering background but not much diesel car experience, i will either have to do myself or find some place at Lahore. You once recommended Diesel Power Solutions but i could not locate them nor contact them.

Also guide me regarding AC, mechanic has told me to replace compressor and I have the intentions as well, just asking u as i don't trust mechanics judgment.

[Xulfiqar]

^^ yours sounds like it needs a good service job. This is the list of it.

1 - check valve clearances
2 - check injection pump timing and advance
3 -check injector break pressure

a bit involved and its best to do all at the same time. If you had your pump overhauled by some shop and now its not upto good service condition then the shop messed it up. They usually ham fist the advance or the pump regulator pressure which in turn causes the advancing problem.

[Salman922]

AOA

sir @xulfiqar after your guidance my car is working perfect MASH ALLAH and giving nearly 17-18 kmpl with light foot, CSD operational and no starting issue.

however i have some more problems:

1- after initial service of pump and nozzles black smoke was completely vanished and pick up was greatly improved however after a month pick up is little less as compared to newly serviced pump and black smoke has started coming when accelerating above 2k rpm so to counter that i highly accelerate upto 4.5-5k rpm in idle mode which again vanishes smoke at 2krpm for next 50-70kms approx and then repeat the process. any permanent or long term solution ??
another thing to note is when there is black smoke mileage also drops significantly.

2- almost 1.5 month back i drained the radiator and engine water, put pressurised water which also bought out some rust but i believe there is still much rust left inside. after draining i poured boring/underground water in the radiator which is little salty. i want to pour toyota pink coolant as u suggested but before that i want to completely clean my radiator from rust, how to do that without taking out T-stat ?
in another thread u suggested to remove t-stat, put some citric acid/tatri in radiator and start engine until fan kicks in. here i dont want to remove t stat ! can i pour citric acid and then drive for about 20kms, then drain water n pour coolant with normal water ?
i dont want mechanic to fiddle with t-stat.

3- car is giving very little hot start issue, CSD is perfectly working.
on cold engine after glow timer car just takes single crank (literally touch start) n starts while when hot (optimum temperature) it still requires complete glow time and then crank otherwise if i crank directly it takes many cranks and then starts. why is this because hot engine should not need glow time ?

[ali_ak]

@xulfiqar

thanks for reply. other day, after the post, i checked the blow by, opened oil cap and started the engine.
At IDLE, paper placed over the oil opening was fluttering, when increased its RPM, paper seemed to be sucked in.

Now I want to first check the engine health, and then step by step try to make it awsome if engine health is in good condition.

How to check if engine is in healthy condition?

also what is ' injector break pressure'.

1 more thing regarding health, there is rusty plain water in radiator, and I am using it as it is for a year now. Before that for around 10 years this care is rarely used so I hope water has not damaged much.

What do u recommend?

[Salman922]

AOA

sir @Xulfiqar after your guidance my car is working perfect MASH ALLAH and giving nearly 17-18 kmpl with light foot, CSD operational and no starting issue.

however i have some more problems:

1- after initial service of pump and nozzles black smoke was completely vanished and pick up was greatly improved however after a month pick up is little less as compared to newly serviced pump and black smoke has started coming when accelerating above 2k rpm so to counter that i highly accelerate upto 4.5-5k rpm in idle mode which again vanishes smoke at 2krpm for next 50-70kms approx and then repeat the process. any permanent or long term solution ??
another thing to note is when there is black smoke mileage also drops significantly.

2- almost 1.5 month back i drained the radiator and engine water, put pressurised water which also bought out some rust but i believe there is still much rust left inside. after draining i poured boring/underground water in the radiator which is little salty. i want to pour toyota pink coolant as u suggested but before that i want to completely clean my radiator from rust, how to do that without taking out T-stat ?
in another thread u suggested to remove t-stat, put some citric acid/tatri in radiator and start engine until fan kicks in. here i dont want to remove t stat ! can i pour citric acid and then drive for about 20kms, then drain water n pour coolant with normal water ?
i dont want mechanic to fiddle with t-stat.

3- car is giving very little hot start issue, CSD is perfectly working.
on cold engine after glow timer car just takes single crank (literally touch start) n starts while when hot (optimum temperature) it still requires complete glow time and then crank otherwise if i crank directly it takes many cranks and then starts. why is this because hot engine should not need glow time ?

@xulfiqar

awaiting reply sir.

[Xulfiqar]

reading your blow measure, your engine sounds to be in good health - a compression check and verify it, now coming to the radiator coolant - I would suggest you do a proper citric acid flush - for 20 minutes with engine running at mid range rpm 2000 or near. - drive for 15 minutes then drain the acid wash into a tub, - get some hot water and fill the engine and drain away (boiled tap water is ok) - dont use cold tap water as it can crack the head or blow the headgasket if the engine is hot.

repeat the clean water flush 2 times and then finally fill with coolant + distilled water mix.

Your starting timing is a bit of a head scratcher - check the valve clearances and compression of the engine.

the smoking and loss of power maybe due to bad fuel or clogged filter, (it can happen).

to do the flush correctly you need to remove the thermostat valve - its very easy.

[asmile79]

Assalam o Alaiqum

Dear PW

i am new in this thread, and wanna share my thoughts.
I have 2008 Corolla 2.0 D and its milage is approx 250000, previously i used Delo series oil, But decided to switch to liqui moly as i am already using on my other JDM Vehicle Corolla Fielder (40th anniversary Edition).
So i choose Liqui Moly 20W-50 (Diesel Special Oil) 5 Litre that cost (2900 PKR)

Need suggestion or experience of mentioned oil.

[mwanwar]

^^ yours sounds like it needs a good service job. This is the list of it.

1 - check valve clearances
2 - check injection pump timing and advance
3 -check injector break pressure

a bit involved and its best to do all at the same time. If you had your pump overhauled by some shop and now its not upto good service condition then the shop messed it up. They usually ham fist the advance or the pump regulator pressure which in turn causes the advancing problem.

Sir g pajero is dropping oil from where gear is mated with engine main seal replaced at once issue still not resolved any idea what else can cause this

As after driving when put to a complete stop oil gathered in the box pours out

Need ur suggestions what could be wrong with this now new seal is also in place

Sent from my GT-I9500 using PW Forums mobile app

[Xulfiqar]

what oil is leaking? engine oil from the rear crank seal is always a very large leak. Check the gearbox input shaft seal for weeping.

[Xulfiqar]

Assalam o Alaiqum

Dear PW

i am new in this thread, and wanna share my thoughts.
I have 2008 Corolla 2.0 D and its milage is approx 250000, previously i used Delo series oil, But decided to switch to liqui moly as i am already using on my other JDM Vehicle Corolla Fielder (40th anniversary Edition).
So i choose Liqui Moly 20W-50 (Diesel Special Oil) 5 Litre that cost (2900 PKR)

Need suggestion or experience of mentioned oil.

.

Whats the need for this? caltex, shell and mobil products have similar oils for less prices.