Diesel engine health

[deltabudy]

more then 90% of BLOWN HEAD GASKETS are caused due to leakage of water throw radiator or hose pipes . on board temperature gauge can not show any sign of water loss . with this ADD-ON we can take control on this situation .

[deltabudy]

[ali_ak]

@xulfiqar sb, need your opinion

Hey, i bought new Diesel nozzles for my 2C engine (number 650 instead of 32) and took them to well reputed asif shah here at Lahore,

Well i tried to tell him to adjust break pressure at rated values, but he was of opinion that pressure is dependent on engine condition, and he told me he will adjust at 130 bar (rated 135 to 155), well I am not sure if he adjusted nozzles to 130 or may be lower then that.

He was very confident that my engine is weak (my compression test was strong).

My car improved its acceleration, smooth drive, smooth gear shift, better accelerator response. Yet to see any advantage in Fuel consumption.

Any ways i didn't messed much with him, and now i would go to a Lab near my home who may adjust as per my demand, asif is reputed its difficult to control him.

I want to ask, i have studied in a paper as well, more pressure means finer atomization, quick burning and more efficiency, does higher break pressure of nozzle badly effects a worn out engine??

In addition to that, can lowering or raising break pressure (significantly above or below ratings) damage the engine in any way, irrespective of the condition of the engine????

I can take car tomorrow to a nearby lab and tell him to adjust at whatever pressure i tell, I am just feeling shaky if that messes my engine.

Car Toyota 2D, 2C engine, model 1990, mileage 160k, JDM, with compression test few months ago pretty good, all in rated range (i posted results here if you remember).

Thank you

[vick2007]

Hello @Xulfiqar,

I do not have any prior experience of keeping a diesel. I bought a 1KZ-TE 1996 Prado a few months ago and have been working on getting it in the best of shapes since then.

The question I have is, I noticed that when starting the car in the morning (cold start), it starts up just fine without any issues, it runs just fine, if I shut it down and try to start it back up (within 5 mins) it starts fine, but when I shut it down and want to start it again after a some time (around 30 mins to an hour), the engine is still hot and it takes a lot longer to start now than it did when it was cold, after starting it runs fine again, can you help me diagnose what the problem could be ?

[Salman922]

yes - it can also "nail" due to this.

use a multimeter and test each one referenced from battery positive, remove buss bar first.

Check the glow plug resistance and for dammn sure one will be culprit and follow the procedure as mentioned by Xulfiqar. Alzo please use the diesel purge for optimum solution for diesel related issues

sorry for late reply, i was busy with my exams.

yesterday i got the resistance of glow plugs checked and it was found to be 0.4-0.5 ohm of all four plugs so i again installed old glow plugs (which were taken out about two months back - two of them were original) whose resistance was varying from 0.9-1.8 ohm, btw buss bar was removed but one wire was put on engine body for earth and one on glow plug top, is it the correct way ?

today morning i gave 3 glow timers and it started with 4,5 self and knocking was there but much reduced on old glow plugs. now what more to do to bring it back to normal cold start on single crank ??

my electrician took out the glow plugs for checking purpose and found oil on the 1st and 3rd glow plug from the pulley, i also feel that knocking sound is also from the 3rd cylinder or somewhere near it.

also i have made a separate thread for same and more problems, kindly have a look.

www.pakwheels.com/forums/engine-transmission-powertrain/249752-corolla-2-0d-saloon-engine-transmission-problem

[mallic]

@Xulfiqar...I asked this question in another thread but you haven't answered so someone suggest me this thread on diese to gain ur immediate attentionl and its very informative.

My 2005 Prado 1KD is consuming little oil probably 0.3-0.5ltr at every oil change for last one, oil being used was Mobil1 and genuine filters were in use from day. for the last few weeks it is giving excessive smoke and consuming huge oil i.e. 1-2ltr/300+ KM, also there is good blow from dip stick and engine cylinder head. i got it checked from Toyota ISB and they said engine is weak and rebuild is only option but they also suggested to go for swap with kabli engine.
my friend who earlier worked for toyota for 18 years suggested me to consider swap only and if wanted to keep the car than consider petrol engine. according to him toyota has no competency to rebuild these engines and they don't have proper tools to diagnose them and 1KD engine need lots of calibration which is not possible with local mechanics and hence cannot survive more than 1.5 2 years then again problems will occur.
during last two days after lot of search, i have found the following:
1. 2010 & 2012 prado halfcut is available at ISB fry port and ODO meter is showing 70000KM & 45000KM, cost of this swap will be PKR325K-375K approx.

1. 1GR is also available from a 2009 and 2011 Prado with above similar mileage, but this swap also carries lot of other stuff to be replaced about which i am told a bolt swap other than engine, cost of this swap will be from PKR280-350K. i am being told that this is a routine swap and no issues afterwards.

for both swap i am being offered a 1 month warranty or check time.

kindly guide what to do as i have to make a decision?

[Muhd_saddique]

Dear Zulfiqar Bahi,

A mechanic rebuild (complete overhaul) my Corolla 2d engine. I want to know break in procedure .

[Xulfiqar]

Dear Zulfiqar Bahi,

A mechanic rebuild (complete overhaul) my Corolla 2d engine. I want to know break in procedure .

drive it - can you list down the technique, tooling and repairs done by your mechanic. Did he simply use "arm torque wrench" and sloppy as hell made in china tools?

[Muhd_saddique]

Dear Zulfiqar Bahi as you know in Pakistan its very hard to find a right person who use proper tools. (every one is jugaru person here) He simply use "arm torque wrench" and china tools?
This is second rebuild of my 2D engine. First overhaul complete its 90,000km in four years and timing belt broke ( which he replaced few months back). A complete overhaul few days ago and i am driving the car upto 50km/h in third gear. He asked me to drive 500km in such way and then replace oil and ready to drive above 50km/h. Is this correct break-in.
I am using the same nozzles as there is no white / black smoke. The original nozzles were DN4PD1 and now available only DN0PD600 and DN0PD650. Is DN0PD650 suitable?
2nd thing i m unable to find a guy who adjust the timing using dial gauge.
So he adjust the timing by hit and trial method.
Need ur suggestions.

[ahmed2396]

I recently got Nissan Sunny with CD20E, but issue i am facing are that under load engine gives black puff and i use Delo Gold 15W40 in it. Acceleration feels stuck, and currently is giving 13km/l and is driven around 100k km. I don't know condition of glows but it starts well as battery is also new AGS 100.

[ali_ak]

@xulfiqar sb

Sir ji where have u been.

I need you valuabe advice on two things

1-Injection Timing
I am weighing my options to either Import Injection Timing Gauge, or build one as you mentioned earlier.
Do you know any place in Pakistan who can help me get this tool?

2-Coolant Cleaning
My 2.0D Corolla 2C engine has been running on pure rusty water for long
and its been used regularly last 2 years, before that it was unused for a long long time.

Now please guide me how to wash the rust (the whole acid method) and what are the precautions when adding coolant (something to do with bubbles etc).

Please take time to elaborate this method, i may ask a mechanic to clean Radiator, but i guess i will need acid wash run as well and i want to do this thing properly, not mechanic jahil style

Regards.
Ali

[hmharoon]

@ Xulfiqar
I hope i am posting it in the right place.

Hi i am having a problem with my 2C corolla 1990 diesel. It won't start all of a sudden. It was running fine previously. I checked fuel lines, pump solenoid, glow plugs and timing belt. Everything seems fine. The car cranks perfect but wont start. There's white smoke in the exhaust on cranking. I tried push start but no use. The engine was overhauled last year and has been working fine since then. Any clue whats going on?
Thanks for any info u may provide.

[Dongskie]

@ Xulfiqar
I hope i am posting it in the right place.

Hi i am having a problem with my 2C corolla 1990 diesel. It won't start all of a sudden. It was running fine previously. I checked fuel lines, pump solenoid, glow plugs and timing belt. Everything seems fine. The car cranks perfect but wont start. There's white smoke in the exhaust on cranking. I tried push start but no use. The engine was overhauled last year and has been working fine since then. Any clue whats going on?
Thanks for any info u may provide.

1. Please check fuse for engine
2. please check fuel cut-off solenoid wire might be cut or loose
3. please check filter inside big bolt of the main fuel line connecting the hose to the injection pump
4. or bad if maybe I/P has problem already

[hmharoon]

@dongskie
Checked it again and found no fuel is being pumped. Going to remove it for repair.
Thanks anyway:)

[Dongskie]

@Dongskie
Checked it again and found no fuel is being pumped. Going to remove it for repair.
Thanks anyway:)

My friend has same issue, ended up a faulty I/P pump.

Good luck with repair$$$$

[Xulfiqar]

@ Xulfiqar
I hope i am posting it in the right place.

Hi i am having a problem with my 2C corolla 1990 diesel. It won't start all of a sudden. It was running fine previously. I checked fuel lines, pump solenoid, glow plugs and timing belt. Everything seems fine. The car cranks perfect but wont start. There's white smoke in the exhaust on cranking. I tried push start but no use. The engine was overhauled last year and has been working fine since then. Any clue whats going on?
Thanks for any info u may provide.

if you have white smoke on cranking then its severely retarded fuel timing (fuel injected too late). did you try pumping the system with the button on the filter assembly and then try starting?

[hmharoon]

if you have white smoke on cranking then its severely retarded fuel timing (fuel injected too late). did you try pumping the system with the button on the filter assembly and then try starting?

Thanks xulfiqar bhai for your time.
Yes did that too. No help. I removed injection pipes and found no fuel upon cranking. Mechanic says it could be bad pump rotor. Need to remove the pump for repairs.

[Xulfiqar]

Thanks xulfiqar bhai for your time.
Yes did that too. No help. I removed injection pipes and found no fuel upon cranking. Mechanic says it could be bad pump rotor. Need to remove the pump for repairs.

no fuel from pump not just pump rotor issue, if the level of the fuel drops down in the pump, the pump will not move fuel to the high pressure head, The front of the pump has a vane in it which sucks fuel from the tank through the filter in the engine bay, for testing connect an external electric pump to the pump inlet and then attempt to start the engine.

If it still fails, then remove the bolt marked "OUT" and clean it with compressed air and retry, also make sure the cut solenoid is clicking - measure impedance too, it should be 12 ohms (1 amp circuit). For testing sake remove the solenoid plunger to eliminate sticking of plunger (you will need to shut off engine by stalling it in gear if you take out plunger from solenoid)

If your engine is mechanically good and the glow plugs work then you should have some signs of starting by now.

[hmharoon]

no fuel from pump not just pump rotor issue, if the level of the fuel drops down in the pump, the pump will not move fuel to the high pressure head, The front of the pump has a vane in it which sucks fuel from the tank through the filter in the engine bay, for testing connect an external electric pump to the pump inlet and then attempt to start the engine.

If it still fails, then remove the bolt marked "OUT" and clean it with compressed air and retry, also make sure the cut solenoid is clicking - measure impedance too, it should be 12 ohms (1 amp circuit). For testing sake remove the solenoid plunger to eliminate sticking of plunger (you will need to shut off engine by stalling it in gear if you take out plunger from solenoid)

If your engine is mechanically good and the glow plugs work then you should have some signs of starting by now.

1. Removed the " OUT" marked bolt and cleaned it.
2. Removed plunger from solenoid too.
   3.I dint have any electric external pump so couldn't do this.
   I mannually pumped diesel using lift pump and tried cranking but dint get through.
   Finally removed the pump and took it to lab. The guy opened everything and it wasnt rotor. There was something broken inside i dont know what we call it exactly. He was saying its a catcher pin.
   Installing back the pump.

Anyway, thankyou very much for your time and valuable suggestions:)

[Xulfiqar]

catcher pin?