Diesel engine health

ali_ak (ali_ak) 2015-10-01 22:22:32 +0500 #521

Do you have any youtube video or guide you are following to use this??

I have seen a video in which they remove fuel line and use a bottle instead, probably filled with Purge and diesel, it accumulates all the sediments etc.

The other way is to add it in fuel tank. How do you do it?

Thank you.

Dongskie (Dongskie) 2015-10-01 22:59:07 +0500 #522

feed it directly to the injection pump via bottle like the video showed

D_shA (D_shA) 2015-10-05 18:21:27 +0500 #523

Salam @xulfiqar bhai et al,

Long time since I opened this thread :)... came back with another problem... hopefully would get some help here... so yesterday I took my 2000 2.0D with a 2C to my mechanic ko vibration issues....i had changed mounts and clutch plate (only) couple of weeks ago but vibration was still there...(work done by another mechanic not mine)..Also, car was loosing power like a mehran with a.c.....anyway my mechanic suspected clutch and pressure plate issue and opened the gear to find out that due to wrong facing by the genius mechanic my brand new clutch and old pressure plate both were gone...anyway we got branded plates and installed them in the ride...the engine fired up within a second and due to mounts loud sound was also gone and ride had very sweet sound... now when my mechanic tried to go for a ride he put ride in reverse gear and it produced no sound or anything but as soon as he started releasing the clutch very very loud and bad sound came from gear as if something was griding inside...he tried this 1st n other gears as well but same result...car won't move or would move just an inch or so and just make that grinding sound...we have left the car as it is for now since it was dark already and plan on opening the gear again tomorrow morning inshaAllah..please guide as to what possibly could be the problem since i happen to be a total noob with 2c... thanks

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mustafa.masood.5011 (mustafa.masood.5011) 2015-10-07 14:16:03 +0500 #524

Aoa xulfiqar bhai and fellow members , if I'm getting this right , there is no need to do a compression test (which btw is to check head pressure ?) If there is no back blow ?

umarkhan1 (umarkhan1) 2015-10-07 14:35:38 +0500 #525

If you have a doubt on the valves then you need to do the test

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devils_smile (Mustafa) 2015-10-07 14:38:29 +0500 #526

I just got these delivered from Amazon. Couldnt find them here and even liqui moly Pakistan said they didn't have them. Gonna do a diesel purge on my merc in this week.

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2015-10-07 15:08:38 +0500 #527

long time ago when I lived in Karachi, liqui moly were selling this, so much so that they even had setup small mobile workshops at oil shops and some petrol pumps, they would do the purge for you while you waited.

devils_smile (Mustafa) 2015-10-07 15:22:58 +0500 #528

My OM601 is nearing 150k on the clock. The engine cranks up even without letting the heater glow plugs light to go off, it runs fine, never over heated, tops out at 175 (tried this only once to see if it could still do the achievable speed which it could back in 1985), Mann filters all around, Caltex delo gold ultra everytime..... basically its a healthy engine. Some of the things i mentioned may not point directly at how a healthy engine should act like but you get the idea

But should I go for the purge? I have a new inline filter and fuel filter which I will change after the purge. Bought the rubber pipes and a oil filter that is used in corolla's for the purge itself. Was seeing the videos on mercedes source and managed to get all the info on how to do this as a DIY

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2015-10-07 16:02:25 +0500 #529

devils_smile;4922918:

My OM601 is nearing 150k on the clock. The engine cranks up even without letting the heater glow plugs light to go off, it runs fine, never over heated, tops out at 175 (tried this only once to see if it could still do the achievable speed which it could back in 1985), Mann filters all around, Caltex delo gold ultra everytime..... basically its a healthy engine. Some of the things i mentioned may not point directly at how a healthy engine should act like but you get the idea

But should I go for the purge? I have a new inline filter and fuel filter which I will change after the purge. Bought the rubber pipes and a oil filter that is used in corolla's for the purge itself. Was seeing the videos on mercedes source and managed to get all the info on how to do this as a DIY

a better task/reward job would be to remove the strainer in the tank and clean it out. Its almost bound to be clogged/dirty

devils_smile (Mustafa) 2015-10-07 16:15:21 +0500 #530

Replacing the tank strainer HOW TO

found this. should be a nice DIY. Incase I do the purge, should I replace the strainer filter before or after I do the purge?

devils_smile (Mustafa) 2015-10-07 16:34:52 +0500 #531

Never mind, its stated on mercedes source to change/clean the strainer and follow it by the purge. Gonna do them in that order. Thankyou Xulfiqar bro. Will update the results on my thread. Gotta burn the half tank of fuel now

saboor73 (Saaboor A saad) 2015-10-07 17:39:52 +0500 #532

What the theory behind taking head of and grinding valve I know this is a stupid act and makes valve losse hardening but want to know why our mechanics love to grind valves

umarkhan1 (umarkhan1) 2015-10-09 07:31:00 +0500 #533

@xulfiqar
Sir why big diesels engine such as trucks/buses/locomotives don't come with common rail technology?

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capsat (ومن شر حاسد إذا حسد) 2015-10-09 17:28:55 +0500 #534

hino j 05 series, volvo trucks & nissan dumpers across pakistan i have seen common rail efi diesel engines in all. Some older typeHino have J08

saboor73 (Saaboor A saad) 2015-10-24 18:48:15 +0500 #535

Bump..

Dongskie (Dongskie) 2015-10-25 19:28:41 +0500 #536

What type of grinding do you mean?

If it is grinding to seat the valves, it is a necessity if the need arises when the valve looses seating on the head or when a new Valve and a new Valve seats are installed.

When new, they do not necessarily fit right away, the valve and the seat need to be rubbed down together to form a fitting seat.

On old valves and seat the purpose is the same.

I wonder why you said " I know this is a stupid act and makes valve losse hardening". I used to have a Toyota 12R that I rebuilt myself back in 1999 when I broke a con-rod bearing, while in the machine shop for regrinding/fitting of the new bearings, I decided to re-seat the valves to kill time doing the Manual way... no machine help but hand only.

I still have contact with the current owner of the car and says he NEVER have nor experienced any troubles with the engine since 2012 when he bought from me..

saboor73 (Saaboor A saad) 2015-10-26 01:34:57 +0500 #537

Dongskie;4937798:

What type of grinding do you mean?

If it is grinding to seat the valves, it is a necessity if the need arises when the valve looses seating on the head or when a new Valve and a new Valve seats are installed.

When new, they do not necessarily fit right away, the valve and the seat need to be rubbed down together to form a fitting seat.

On old valves and seat the purpose is the same.

I wonder why you said " I know this is a stupid act and makes valve losse hardening". I used to have a Toyota 12R that I rebuilt myself back in 1999 when I broke a con-rod bearing, while in the machine shop for regrinding/fitting of the new bearings, I decided to re-seat the valves to kill time doing the Manual way... no machine help but hand only.

I still have contact with the current owner of the car and says he NEVER have nor experienced any troubles with the engine since 2012 when he bought from me..

I am not talking about valve seats here there is a concept here that when a engine which relys on shim/bucket over valve for clearance loss required clearance mechanics take the head of and grind the tip of valve

Dongskie (Dongskie) 2015-10-26 14:52:20 +0500 #538

Ah yes that is stupid, maybe they find it easier to grind the valve tip than the shim.

saboor73 (Saaboor A saad) 2015-10-26 15:07:44 +0500 #539

Its not easy but it "seems" economical but I want to know is how it works I mean can grind valve gives required valve clearance? a friend have got his charade valve grind and now his car doesnt smoke that much as it use to

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2015-10-26 15:19:46 +0500 #540

valves need to be polished(ground) to make a companion bond with its seat. If you dont do this - you will have leaking valves. Its done with extra fine emery paste when required.

Old engines had softer material seats and were easily ground, like the old toyota K, T etc.. almost all newer engines have harder seats and the valves are cut and polished to match the seat (cheaper on the production line)

the valve seat is a very very important part of engine function. The valve only has that little area to cool itself - it transfers its heat into the valve seat and hence into the cylinder head to cool down. This is why the valve seat width is taken very seriously.

It doesnt rub through the hardening but more or less polishes both surfaces to be "mating companions"

The valve tip is always hardened - if you look at it closely you will see it is blued - that is the hard skin. Removing that skin is bad news.

for some head scratching - here is a nice view of parts of the valve.