DIY engine overhaul: Indus corolla (AE 100) 1999 2E 1300cc

[Xulfiqar]

please - post pics of block after cleanup. They would be super satisfying.

[Mun33b]

Yes cleaned the oil galleries aswell. The rifle brushes available didnt cut it. Made a brush sort of rope with brake wire, it did perfectly work and cleaned the crevices aswell. Made a loop to work the wire, rotated it, pushed it everywhere, with kerosene flowing to dissolve the gunk getting loose. As I did this overhaul a while back, gathering pictures is taking some effort. Will surely post pictures of the block.

[Xulfiqar]

Rifle brushes didnt cut it? Was this engine running on cooking grease?

[Mun33b]

No the quality of the brushes was crap. Was shedding bristles, didnt want those to get stuck in some nook only to come out when the oil flows.

[Moderator]

[Moderator]

please explain the removal of rust via electrolysis process, as a DIY at home for common knowledge

@Xulfiqar @Mun33b

[SER_GTR]

Only Single LINER In Desi Style

"VerY Nice Jee...Axilaaand Hogaya"

Mess worth doing (y)

Looking Forward For A Proper Rebuild And Machined Job Too...!

Rebuild It As Per Specs

[xenerking]

i must say, very good job indeed, out of box thinking.

after aging, enduring usch stress, facing environment, over heating and rusting etc, how to make sure that head and block dont have microscopic fractures and crack, internal or external?

Just an independent question.

[Mun33b]

Thank you. Yes the specs were followed and the job was executed as per service manual. All the effort was indeed completely worth it.

[Mun33b]

Thank you. Cracks can be detected by dyes and UV light. More precise way is to xray to find fractures (done for race engines). This block was given thorough look and examined for failures. Unfortunately I havent taken pictures of the process. BTW, cast iron blocks dont die easily.

[Mun33b]

Surely, but this may require another thread encompassing types of material, electrolytes, voltage and ampere etc. I have given the procedure in my post which is applicable for Iron and Cast Iron and can be easily followed by a diyer. Open and happy to help.

[Mun33b]

After the first run of electrolysis, most of the rust was gone. Sent the block for cylinder bore and hone after wards. The oil on the block is spillage as it was applied to prevent the rust on freshly cut cylinders:
Before:

After:

[Mun33b]

After the block came back from bore job, applied silicone grease on the bores and gave another 15 hr run to remove whatever was left:

The sacrificial metal net before and after electrolysis:

After:

It was nearly gone, the wires became thin and were breaking away on even slight wiggle.

[xenerking]

yes i remember, toyota helped to find issue with head using X ray, the engine was overheating and actual reason could not be traced out, it had lots of carbon in it and a hiar line crack underneath leaking compression into water galleries once under stress, otherwise it used to behave normal, even compression test cudnt detect it.

[Xulfiqar]

This is a very good and sure process to clean out rust from an iron engine, its done quite commonly in other countries. In proper machine shops they usually have a fire oven where they bake this block while its rotating, it will literally burn off everything from the metal and make it ready prepared for machining.

There is another way to degrease such a block on the cheap! you have to find a drum, fill it with some water and a strong soap (industrial soap) and then put a low flame under it and drop the block in and let the "paaye" cook. It will come out looking like fresh cast iron. (literal light shiny gray) - When I was a lad in Pakistan, I did that on a toyota 2K engine which I can bet was cooled with river mud instead of tap water.

[ifadey]

Where do you get a service manual?
Do dealerships in Pakistan sell service manual?

[Mun33b]

The block was bore and honed cross hatch. The last piston size was already 0.50 oversize. The bore was wornout so the possible next size was 1.00 oversize. Toyota oem pistons were not available for this engine in oversize. Searched everywhere for them. So next possible option was to use Japanese ART pistons (finding those in 1.00 oversize was difficult aswell). Found them finally, appropriate size TP rings were used. Also sourced brass welch plugs for the block, hammered in with Permatex Form a gasket No. 1 Hard Setting:

[Mun33b]

Here are the sealants/antisieze/lubes etc. used in the job, notice mostly are stained blue, thats prussian blue doing its job of going every where:
Prussian blue was used to check valve seats. Permatex ultra black rtv was used for oil pan. Bought Permatex Extreme temp copper rtv just in case for exhahst manifold. Antiseize on all bolts where applicable.
The head was all square, the intake side, exhaust side and the bottom were luckily not warped, checked with straight edge and feeler guages and later on at machinist after setting it up on the machine just for verification.

[dms664]

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[capsat]

it is a jaw drop DIY

@margallar

@agoodfriend @VCheng @babarhyd @nomi01 @argtr65
sir @msabbasi you too will enjoy it