DIY engine overhaul: Indus corolla (AE 100) 1999 2E 1300cc

[xenerking]

avg of 78500KM per engine redo job, this looks like s stain on YOTA reliability banner

[capsat]

avg of 78500KM per engine redo job, this looks like s stain on YOTA reliability banner

in that context you are right, but i get alert for every work done on 2E from google calendar like
a gasket, welch plug change, waterpump change is marked under engine rebuild.
there is a thread i posted for pump & block welch changes about 8 weeks ago. that too is under engine rebuild heading.

[Xulfiqar]

Please remember that in Pakistan every other car gets a head gasket job by 100,000 kms

And other shenanigans.

[Moderator]

[Mun33b]

Found the first start videos, will be uploading them shortly. Here are the compression test pics after second 2000km oil change (5w30 havoline api sp gf6a-fully synthetic). All 4 between 185 to 190 psi (factory standard is 185 for new)

[Mun33b]

Also, having battery light on after replacing alternator. The wiring was a mess, 2 of the 3 wires of alternator connector were cut and shorted at the alternator end. Sorted it and wired back properly. The wires are yellow red and white. yellow was connected, red and white were cut and shorted.
The previous alternator stopped charging so sourced another one (junkyard). Now confused if the battery light is due to faulty alternator or the wiring. Anybody got its wiring schematic? The service manual I have is mechanical only.

[Xulfiqar]

The wiring plug has 3 wires

The white is S (sense) goes to alt-s fuse near the battery, the yellow green is the L (lamp in dashboard) and last is IG which is ignition key positive lower through IgA fuse.

Seems like your wiring plug was some other cars, and someone joined the ignition and sense wires together because of laziness.

[Mun33b]

Now when its wired back, I have a constant battery light. The voltage on battery is ~12.5v when not started. Its around 13.4 when started and no auxiliary load like headlights or AC. Is it that the alternator itself is throwing the light or there are any other components in between. Btw the battery light works w.r.t. voltage?

[helper_learner]

It (light) works when the Alternator is not Charging / Working.

Trace L connection, It is faulty.

[Xulfiqar]

The lamp circuit has nothing in it and goes to the gauges directly, if you disconnect the alt plug and use a test lamp with its tail on negative and touch that pin on the connector/molex, you will see the alt lamp in the cluster illuminate. There is no other circuit in between,

If your alt lamp is on with engine running and does not go out even when revved and all 3 wires on alternator are connected, your alternators regulator is bad.

The S and IG wires should not be bridged, the ALT-S fuse is kept near the battery as it provides best actual voltage reading for the alternator regulator to change the field control.

One more thing,

Make sure that the alternator warning lamp in the gauge panel is a 3w bulb, not a 5w and not an LED, the regulator wont work with those two.

[Mun33b]

That was tremendous help. Checked the voltage at sense wire and it was 0, turns out ALT-S fuse was blown (7.5amp in engine bay fusebox). Replaced it and battery light is gone.

[Xulfiqar]

Lektrishann and their shenanigans!!!!

Lol

Good thing the alt s fuse is now bridged, toyota placed it in the engine bay near the battery for a specific reason..

Me being in this trade for so long has made me see quite a lot of such cartoonish situations.

Remember the old “pijaro alternator vekum pomp wala” that would boil the battery over because someone wired the C wire to the key?

[Mun33b]

I really cant see why would anyone do this butchery. The cut wires were left bare, im glad the fuse was blown out so atleast the always hot line was not working, but still the ignition wire was bare and a big shortcircuit risk. Planning to go through wiring overhaul aswell.

[Mun33b]

And i have seen batteries literally bulging due to heat because the alternator is overcharging non stop, while the street monkey is busy making story about how shitty that particular battery brand is.

[Xulfiqar]

You forgot the two usual stories

“Wiring shaat hai”
“Relay lagwalo”

Both go hand in hand for everything including a punctured tire on your car.

[Xulfiqar]

Thats all they know!

They have no idea what the ALT-S signal in toyota means, all they know is

Teen taar wali giripp mein aik “bulapp ko jaati hai - teshtlempp se check karo”

2 taar chabi sweech se lagani hain

Ustaad ne bataya thaa.

Its really funny to see them trying to work on a 5 wire denso or hitachi alternator, where one wire goes to ecu.

Or even the old mazda rx8 alternator which was completely ecu controlled (including the battery lamp) - tesht lempp… bzzzzt, alternator field control burnt.

[hassankhan03]

haha, i love when Zulfiqar bhai mimic desi ustaads