Finaly 5AFE Swapped in EE90

[Vaqas1]

Today's update.

Getting things fixed from the swap hehe

Changed the Map Sensor as per Xulfiqar and other recomendation to Denso one MODEL: 89420 - 12070

Also got the fuel pump fixed to a better position. Before pump was in the AIR hehe i dun know how it survived all this time

Pics.

[ahsanonline]

found this very informative guide explaining various ecu pins....

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h26.pdf

[SER_GTR]

Nice....Some Progress finally

[Vaqas1]

Let me shw you how they installed PUMP

Though its fixed now but just to show others how they fix pump and than they burn.

Sorry for bad drawing

[Vaqas1]

Nice....Some Progress finally

Yeah. Intrestingly the yellow sticker map sensor had 89420 - 12060 and toyota written on it for a second i thought i should stick to it as the pathan was unable to find the blue specific model in his bag of map sensors :p.

Also got the mount fixed engine is 95% balanced now. I still feel its little high from the left side.

[Xulfiqar]

nice work - the engine wouldve felt better after the proper map sensor - and be sure that you have the line filter in the vacuum signal line too - or you can severely shorten the usable life of the map sensor - this filter is a red thing on the manifold or sometimes in between the vacuum line. and for other proper operational points - use a plastic pipe for the map sensor with rubber end pipes (it does not collapse when heated up)

[SER_GTR]

@vaqas thats why i told you to get that baffle built in order to avoid these surging issues
@xulfiqar.....you are talking about check valves??? or filters are different?

[saadzae92]

@SER

No xulfiqar is talking about the map sensor (vacuum/boost) line filters

The are round like a 5 rupee coin and have attachments at both ends.

Saves alot of expensive and delicate manifold pressure/vacuum sensing equipment such as MAP sensors, Electronic boost controllers and electronic boost gauges.

If I wasn't online from my cell phone I'd probably share a pic of it lol

thank you.

[saadzae92]

http://www.jull.co.uk/images/stories/guides/avcr7.jpg

[SER_GTR]

Hmm.....I Didn't get any on my motor ......BT Did have white one which looks like a check valve but it was same thing i am sure......mine is missing ......and i never seen any of it in cars...i hope i find it also.....BT Map sensor is quiet a gem to find

[saadzae92]

Yup same is the case with 4EFTE and 1JZGTE MAP sensors

90% of swapped engines are running the wrong ecu/ map sensor combo

(actually 90% is low make that 95% of swaps :p)

Here I found a better pic of the filter

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=280605371794

thank you.

[Xulfiqar]

the 20V will work on any blue toyota map sensor - you can test it yourself Ive used a daihatsu HC-E (blue sticker) on it with no problems - and yes it uses a small white in line filter on the map sensor line as the 20V BT backwashes a lot of fuel fumes into the map (because of no inlet manifold)

[Vaqas1]

nice work - the engine wouldve felt better after the proper map sensor - and be sure that you have the line filter in the vacuum signal line too - or you can severely shorten the usable life of the map sensor - this filter is a red thing on the manifold or sometimes in between the vacuum line. and for other proper operational points - use a plastic pipe for the map sensor with rubber end pipes (it does not collapse when heated up)

That filter isnt there. But i can try find one

BTW I do have the below thing in my Qaumi khazana of old parts

Allows vacum only from one side.

[Vaqas1]

The A/C is wired as
AC1 = AC switch + input going to compressor relay
ACT = A/C compressor rpm sensor, if you dont have an A/C amplifier in your car use the IGF wire through a relay to bridge to ECU once you have A/C compressor operation - it ensures you have optimum timing advance with A/C on - it tells the ecu that the compressor clutch is actually engaged

Xulfiqar tom i am gona get the A/C fixed. They will be installing in a desi way i mean hot wire and some vacume idle up thing to get the engine rpm up. But i can try to do this from ECU.

I dont have a/c amplifier even if it wasi am sure its removed.

I am not very technical in ECU wiring or even in wiring so i will let you know what i understand from above post.

AC1 - Postivie from A/C switch to this input as well as a/c +
ACT - So i will need relay to get this to work.

So in Layman terms i need to understand this ACT thing to work with relay.

[ahsanonline]

Let me shw you how they installed PUMP

Though its fixed now but just to show others how they fix pump and than they burn.

Sorry for bad drawing

3 questions:

1) pump is supposed to be fully immersed in petrol?
2) its bag kinda thing at the bottom is still supposed to be immersed in petrol even when tank is nearly empty?
3) does lowering the pump further into the tank have any effect on the way the petrol guage needle behaves? like currently my needle falls slow from full to first quarter, then a very very quick fall from first quarter to middle/ lower quarter and then stays there for quite a long time. on hitting lower quarter of guage car starts to hiccup on sudden throttle....

[Vaqas1]

Today was a very hectic day. Got few things fixed at home.

My blower was not working at full speed after swap the idiot cut the main relay wire. Audio System was not working so he again cut the earth to that. I had to take both out and fix em.

Also took out the ECU. SER and Xulfiqar i got some news

Like Ahsan my ECU is also running on one wire to Batt and +B and that gets disconected when we turn off Ign. So Ecu Gets dissconected everytime.

The better news is I bought multimeter today and STA wire is connected i got voltage when i crank the engine.

The ECU well the engine is one of the cleanest but ECU i must say is not. Even i can see some water got into it maybe in the past though its working fine.

I also opened the ECU some pins are different from what Ahsan posted.

[Vaqas1]

STA Signal voltage went upto 10.55v.

[ahsanonline]

iv set and reset the ecu a couple of times and my hot idle still lingers around 600rpm. Is that normal?
also i get a slight misfire if i punch the accelerator while idling, response isnt instantaneous like efi is supposed to be recently there is also a noticable misfire when in high rpm range (3-5k rpm)

ecu gives no cel codes either...

Another thing, what are the recommendations for following?
1. Engine oil quantity? (3L enough?)
2. Which spark plugs? resistive or non-resistive? J16BU-11? 1.1mm gap?
3. Gear Box oil type & quantity?

[Vaqas1]

1. Engine oil quantity? (3L enough?) I was reading the capacity is around 3.10 L. But when i put 3L with filter the level was almost touching F mark

2. Which spark plugs? J16BU-11? 1.1mm gap?

3. Gear Box oil quantity? 2.5 to 3L.

My mechanic says the original NGK plugs gives idle problems so replaced these to Denso ones.

[Vaqas1]

Not many people following this thread now and experts also gone

Today we changed the compressor to 134 one the one came with engine was R12 one.

Last summer when i replaced my evaporator i changed it to newer indus type corolla one now that came with a ecu type thing i guess a/c amplifier i am posting pic of it. It got so many wires to work with so the electrition was unable to fit this so he left this. Today i got it back from my A/C wala. Xulfiqar i guess this is the one you are talkking about. But with so many controls it got i wonder if we can fit it.

Also went to the Electrition who fix the a/c rpm problems.

He gave two options to raise the RPM on a/c.

One he will install some Relay with Idle up sensor so when a/c is switched on i guess the idle up will raise the idle as much as it can i guess.

2nd option he says install the big vacume type idle up which will raise the rpm.

When i asked him how about turning it on with ECU and he was like :-#

Todays Pics.