Finaly 5AFE Swapped in EE90

Tags: #<Tag:0x0000000a194c90>

Atif13 (Atif13) 2011-01-03 13:24:40 +0500 #221

Well i have converted corolla 1986 and corona 1991 to 4A-FE. and I tell you the ride of both car is awesome. They touch 0-100 just in 11 Sec. I would have adviced you of 4A-FE. They fuel consumption of 4A-FE is at par with 5A-FE. However, you have found a neat engine and swapping work is also neatly done. best of luck. let me know from where you purchased the engine.

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2011-01-03 14:06:20 +0500 #222

to make the ECU work the AC

The ACT wire should be coming through a relay and should be sourced from IGF wire on the ECU,

The AC1 wire is from the AC button - after going through all low pressure switch etc. (wire up the relay coil with this wire to give signal to ACT)

The ISC wire should be connected to the adjustable idle up switch on the firewall.

The a/c amplifier you are showing is of a EE100 carby - its not all that difficult to wire up - if you get a hold of the manual or if the codes are printed on the PCB too

Vaqas1 (Vaqas1) 2011-01-04 07:18:51 +0500 #223

Thanks Xulfiqar but I am not finding it easy to do this a/c thingie as I dont understand the without a/c amplifier i mean the fuel pump wiring I understand now as this was explained desi ishtyle main But no worries thankx for your help.

Yesterday i got the throtle body serviced as the eratic idle issue kept comin back.

Now Idle is fine but i am having one more issue when the engine is cold the car idles high at around 1500RPM which is normal as the coolant temp is low but before yesterday the idle was 1300RPM.

Now the issue is before the cleaning of throtle body the car will heat up with in like 5 to 10 mins and idle will return to 900.
But now the idle stays at 1300 or 1500 even when the car temp is at middle i am driving from some time but as soon as i turn off car and turn it on when car is warm everything comes back to normal 900.

Is this Coolant temp going bad? Or cleaning did some thing.

Argh issue after issue hehe no worries small probs

haziqshah (haziqshah) 2011-01-04 07:46:27 +0500 #224

can any one give me that part number for hc-e 1.3 (g102 new model) map sensor, i am currenty using 4efe sensor for it ,works fine but looking to make it perfect,

haziqshah (haziqshah) 2011-01-04 07:49:48 +0500 #225

@vaqas1
u r lucky, mine when cold start, the rpm is 500k, lol and when full normal its 1500k,, any help?,i think the autochowk lines r connected opposite, as by the electrician

ahsanonline (ahsanonline) 2011-01-04 08:11:54 +0500 #226

any advice about my problems?
https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/performance-modification-tune-up-preventive-maintenance/154659-finaly-5afe-swapped-ee90-11#post2575336

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2011-01-04 13:16:23 +0500 #227

its the same sensor

ahsanonline (ahsanonline) 2011-01-04 16:11:20 +0500 #228

Vaqas1;2576779:

Thanks Xulfiqar but I am not finding it easy to do this a/c thingie as I dont understand the without a/c amplifier i mean the fuel pump wiring I understand now as this was explained desi ishtyle main But no worries thankx for your help.

Yesterday i got the throtle body serviced as the eratic idle issue kept comin back.

Now Idle is fine but i am having one more issue when the engine is cold the car idles high at around 1500RPM which is normal as the coolant temp is low but before yesterday the idle was 1300RPM.

Now the issue is before the cleaning of throtle body the car will heat up with in like 5 to 10 mins and idle will return to 900.
But now the idle stays at 1300 or 1500 even when the car temp is at middle i am driving from some time but as soon as i turn off car and turn it on when car is warm everything comes back to normal 900.

Is this Coolant temp going bad? Or cleaning did some thing.

Argh issue after issue hehe no worries small probs

heat up the car till radiator fan kicks in, then switch off. Disconnect power to ecu for at least 60secs, reset it, plug it back on and start engine again. it should recalibrate everything itself....

86rocker (86rocker) 2011-01-04 16:18:28 +0500 #229

nicely done !!!
at last u get rid of your carby engine !!!

ahsanonline (ahsanonline) 2011-01-04 17:23:41 +0500 #230

does anyone know where this VSV is leading to and what actually switches it on?

SER_GTR (SER_GTR) 2011-01-04 17:54:01 +0500 #231

^^Its for Charcoal Canister

Vaqas1 (Vaqas1) 2011-01-05 01:41:37 +0500 #232

My +b and Batt are there just like yours they are connected via one wire to IGN switch so when ever i switch my car off there is no power goin to ECU.

I will fix this mess this weekend by installling Fuses and running a wire directly from battery to the Batt one.

I checked the Coolant Temperature sensor by the multimeter by warming up water and reading the resistance and its working fine started from 1800 and went down to almost 300 when water touched 80 to 90c. so its not coolant temp sensor.

When car is at middle the idle is still up 1300 as soon as i turn off card and turn it back on the idle goes back to normal 900rpm it means the IAC valve is not going back to normal when engine is warm i tried to open the valve cover bu mechanic used pipe range to tight these hehe i tried my level best but couldent open it.

ahsanonline (ahsanonline) 2011-01-05 08:43:56 +0500 #233

hmmm...thats all very very strange!

i also have a set of my own problems and iv no idea whats causing them:

when car gets hot, idle rpm stays around 900 after revving engine and then falls back to 500-600rpm..
after taking a hard left turn eg turning in to street on left, engine gets choked badly on punching throttle and skips a lot. kafi bari bari missing karti hai...
if driven more than 2500 rpm car starts to jerk, like twice per second, it is constant with equal intervals and is not random.
On pushing throttle more than 25-30%, the car loses torque (that pushed-into-your-seat kinda feeling); on letting go of the throttle a bit it regains its torquey feel. Iv checked ignition timing, if I retard it, its way too retarded, if I advance it even a bit, it starts to knock and keeps doing so...

I've checked the level of fuel pump in tank, its filter bag is at the lowest level of the tank almost touching the bottom. Besides, these problems arise even with half a tank of petrol! What to do????

Vaqas1 (Vaqas1) 2011-01-05 08:49:20 +0500 #234

Ahsan You kno I had problem of similar kind with me when my car was on petrol and the pump was badly installed. Your problems if on petrol I think this is fuel pump related. As the pump surges it loses petrol pressure. You need to get it fixed properly.

Maybe your pump is not providing enough pressure.

ahsanonline (ahsanonline) 2011-01-05 13:17:48 +0500 #235

it is fixed in there proper, i saw it myself, even fixed it myself. it was touching the bottom of the tank...

i used a can of liqui moly injector cleaner a week ago...could it be the fuel filter clogged up because of gunk moving up from tank into the pipes etc...

SER_GTR (SER_GTR) 2011-01-05 13:49:44 +0500 #236

ahsanonline;2578761:

hmmm...thats all very very strange!

i also have a set of my own problems and iv no idea whats causing them:

1. when car gets hot, idle rpm stays around 900 after revving engine and then falls back to 500-600rpm..

2. after taking a hard left turn eg turning in to street on left, engine gets choked badly on punching throttle and skips a lot. kafi bari bari missing karti hai...

3. if driven more than 2500 rpm car starts to jerk, like twice per second, it is constant with equal intervals and is not random.

4. On pushing throttle more than 25-30%, the car loses torque (that pushed-into-your-seat kinda feeling); on letting go of the throttle a bit it regains its torquey feel. Iv checked ignition timing, if I retard it, its way too retarded, if I advance it even a bit, it starts to knock and keeps doing so...

I've checked the level of fuel pump in tank, its filter bag is at the lowest level of the tank almost touching the bottom. Besides, these problems arise even with half a tank of petrol! What to do????

The Best way to check fuel pump is to check fuel pressure.....!! about car missing on sideways so thats fuel surging issue.........get baffle built like i told earlier.....!!fuel get sideways when u turn car resulting in no fuel left for pump being sucked......! so it sucks air and resulting in pressure drop...!!

for injector cleaning so best way is to physically remove and clean them rather than running addictive....most cases resulting in creating issues later and you have to do the same ...remove and clean.....!!
check your fuel filter also for any pressure drop.....! they also makes lots of difference....!!

advance timing create knocks .....!!

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2011-01-05 13:53:08 +0500 #237

do not run a wire from the battery to the ECU - take it off the radio wire thats constant live - its fused too.

about your engine losing power - your fuel pressure is not enough - are you using a rubber pipe from the back to the front or a pipe too thin? Secondly you would need a baffled tank to overcome the sloshing problem. btw what fuel filter are you guys using.

ahsanonline (ahsanonline) 2011-01-05 17:33:03 +0500 #238

Here is how my fuel pump is sitting in the tank....

Thats exactly how it is...its touching the bottom of the tank. Tomorrow i grab a full tank of petrol then il see how it behaves...

As for the petrol lines, they're not rubber from tank to front. They're stock pipes made of some very stiff sturdy metal...

opened up the fuel filter thing today. the fuel filter looks exactly like this:

some dirty fuel came out of it but i couldnt do anything else so put it back together again...

What exactly is this baffle thing?

Vaqas1 (Vaqas1) 2011-01-05 23:20:36 +0500 #239

I am not using any fuel filter

I will get one installed and which one kindly suggest.

Ahsan is this filter you installed in engine bay area?

Hmm I tried to locate a wire from radio but no live wire in there the only wire i found was also run direct from battery

The wire i am gona run will have a fuse.

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2011-01-06 02:02:14 +0500 #240

not using a fuel filter is equal to drinking muddy water yourself - doesnt work nice does it.. your fuel rail and injectors must be plugged by now.

And every radio has constant live