Honda Civic Ek D15B dual vtec 1996 manual Vti exhaust smoke

[iamhazzy]

It's most likely not there. But I'll double check and update if the eld is present in the fuse box or not. Will post pictures as well here.
If its not there should I get one or forget about it?

And as for the IACV yes the screw was adjusted and I'm guessing I read it somewhere that it's not supposed to be messed up with ?
So to get it all sorted out I should just get the other manifold 2 wire iacv and forget about the EGR?
Does egr help in getting better economy?

[iamhazzy]

Understood. Will surely update you guys once it's done.

[Hassan1991]

EGR works on ecu signal as well. if manual manifold doesn't has EGR means ecu was also not programmed for it.
your idle will be either high or very low without working iacv. because that's where your TB coin would be sitting.

[hasankhurshid29]

If its not there should I get one or forget about it?

Fuse box needs to be replaced if eld is not present.
And all these small things does effect fuel economy. If you are interested how eld save fuel, you can read more about it here: https://www.underhoodservice.com/honda-electrical-system-diagnostics/

[hasankhurshid29]

EGR works on ecu signal as well. if manual manifold doesn't has EGR means ecu was also not programmed for it.

I think manual ecu also looks for egr valve just read it on google search. And also it will effect fuel economy. So better to get proper intake manifold.

[hasankhurshid29]

And as for the IACV yes the screw was adjusted and I'm guessing I read it somewhere that it's not supposed to be messed up with ?

Throttle stop screw should not be messed up in any case but idle screw can be adjusted and there is a proper method to adjust it in the service manual.
This is idle screw

[hazzysyed21]

Manual P2J-003 ecu also looks for an EGR and PKDM motors d16y7 or y8 assembly doesn't come with an EGR.
Manual Intake Manifold with an EGR is a rare find and the kabli motors we get here at the junkyard usually comes with automatic transmission (the one I have). So in that case I think I have only 2 options.
1. Forget about the EGR and install the regular d16y7 or y8 Intake manifold.
2. Run the auto Intake manifold that came with the motor i bought and the setup that I already have with P2J-J63 ecu.

So is it really that difficult to get this setup running with the P2J-003 ecu?

[Hassan1991]

Why don't you just change iacv while keep using auto manifold?

[hasankhurshid29]

Why don't you just change iacv while keep using auto manifold?

The 2 pin iacv is placed at the back of i take manifold. Whereas 3 pin is on the throttle body itself. So maybe auto manifold don't have place to install the 2 pin. Also if he installed it somehow, then still he needs to block off the 3 pin iacv space

[hasankhurshid29]

If he want to do this, he needs to follow this diy: https://www.d-series.org/threads/diy-3-wire-to-2-wire-iacv-conversion.32373/

[Hassan1991]

It can be done if he want to use this manifold.
Yes already done many times.

[hazzysyed21]

Yes exactly.
I'd have to drill and make an adaptor plate and space on the Auto manifold for the 2 wire IACV, since it's a 3 wire IACV from an auto d15b engine. And I guess this jugaar is not recommend and is not worth it unless if only it's done properly.

So I guess I'm left with 2 options only now.
Get the 2 wire IACV IM and install P2j-003 ecu check and see.
Or
Keep the P2J-J63 ecu as is with auto 3 wire IACV IM installed and call it a day.

Because when I try to put the Obd2a wiring P2J-003 ecu it keeps looking for the 2 wire IACV and it keeps giving me CEL for IACV code 14 due to the IM 3 wire iacv and motor being taken off from an Auto CVT engine.

[hazzysyed21]

Good share. Thank u so much. It's a great post and I've been through it before and that's where I got know a lot as well.
But everything seems so simple when trying to convert it all like on Obd2a you need to move the pin from A14 to A12 and ground A13 (which is an orange wire i guess). But when I do that the car goes surging to 1500rpm and throws the CEL and code 14.
In the 3 wire to 2 wire conversion. The orange wire at the other end (the engine bay side) needs to be unplugged as well right?

[hazzysyed21]

[hazzysyed21]

Hope that they're all readable and the quality isn't bad.

[hasankhurshid29]

But everything seems so simple when trying to convert it all like on Obd2a you need to move the pin from A14 to A12 and ground A13 (which is an orange wire i guess). But when I do that the car goes surging to 1500rpm and throws the CEL and code 14.In the 3 wire to 2 wire conversion. The orange wire at the other end (the engine bay side) needs to be unplugged as well right?

You arr doing something wrong here which is letting the iacv open all the way. You should try different combinations and it will work. Also you don't need to remove the middle wire in the engine bay side.

[hazzysyed21]

That's exactly what needs to be figured out where and what exactly is going wrong here.
My complete engine is from the D15B Auto Cvt. With the 3 wire that it comes with on the back of the TB. Now when I connect my P2J-003 ecu it keeps showing me code 14 and works fine with the P2j-j63.

I think I'm just gonna leave it as it is with the current setup (P2J-J63 D15B Auto IM with 3 wire IACV) and call it a day since I cannot go back to changing the IM again to 2 wire IACV.
As i also need the EGR on this IM for lean burn capabilities. Which is required in order to make the 3 stage Vtec work.

[hazzysyed21]

Can anybody share the readings/calibration of TPS, MAP, O2 sensor? For this engine? And also what are the ideal readings should I be looking for when connected to a scanner?

[hasankhurshid29]

@shabbir.1

[shabbir.1]

TPS:
0.5 - 4.5 Volts
at closed throttle reading should not exceed 0.5V, 0.47~0.49 volts are more desired values.

MAP:
240 - 370 mbar
values just below 300 like 270~290 are more desirable for recommended idle RPMs and good fuel economy.

02:
0.6 Volts
for ideal stoichiometric ratio of 14.7:1 (air:fuel).