Khyber - Performance after Complete Engine Overhaul

[speedster_101]

Dunlop Touring T1 comes in 12 inch size?
I have driven S707 around 300 Km till now. They are performing very good in this rainy season. Good braking and smooth drive but I hear slight noise after 100 Km/hr. I think its due to the thin hair which are present on new tyres and I hope the noise will go away when these hairs are gone after some more kms.

[speedster_101]

MashaAllah looking good.BTW How yoko's are performing. I am also about to change the tyre's and i am stuck between 3. Yokohama S-707, Dunlop Touring T1, General BG Tempo Plus. On physical inspection all three look equally good

I also wanted to try General BG Tempo Plus this time but there is no date stamp on General tyres. You never know how old is the tyre hence I dropped the idea.

[hassantahir2]

Sorry i wrote it a little wrong those are Dunlop SP Touring T1.
Yeah General's don't have the manufacturing date stamp.

[speedster_101]

What price is quoted by shopkeepers for these three tyres?

[hassantahir2]

General BG Tempo Plus 3400/-RS per tyre.
Dunlop SP Touring T1 4300/-RS per tyre.
Yokohama S-707 4800/-RS per tyre.

[speedster_101]

After the rain

[speedster_101]

Trip to Keran, AJK

Visited Jagran Resort and Keran, AJK on my Khyber. It's 7-8 hour drive from Islamabad.
The car performed very good during the trip. The frixa brake pads performed really well, no heat up, brake fading or brake squeaking issues. Total traveling was around 550 Kms. Checked all the levels (brake fluid, engine oil, coolant) after the trip and no loss of a single drop.

However, the temperature gauge climbed up and stayed there during the journey, I parked the car, while the engine still running I placed hand on the bonnet and it was cool. I opened the bonnet and touched the radiator cap, it was at ambient temperature, I mean one can place hand on it for as long as he want, no heat. Placed hand on the tappet cover and it was also not too hot. No signs of engine heat up like pressure or steam in reservoir bottle. The radiator fan was switching on and off on the same high level of gauge. I switched on the air conditioner as fan becomes direct on that mode but the needle remained on the same position as shown in the picture below.

At night, when the car was cool I opened the radiator cap and coolant was full. When I reached Islamabad, the temperature gauge came back to original position i.e. half mark.

[hassantahir2]

After changing the temperature sending unit the temperature needle also climbs to this mark in my car while driving in bumper to bumper traffic (as nowadays temperature in FSD has reached around 42-47 degrees).
But the situation is same like yours radiator fan work's ok and temperatures stay in limit it's only the heat gauge which starts behaving abnormally.

[speedster_101]

Temperature sending unit must be changed then.
Which company temp sending unit have you purchased?
I am using the following one.

[hassantahir2]

I got this one. It was physically same as your's.

[speedster_101]

I got mine for Rs.260/-
I have to change engine oil of my Khyber this weekend so I will visit Suzuki spare part dealers in Saddar to buy SGO Premium and see if I can find the original SGP temperature sending unit.

[speedster_101]

Visited all the big shops for Suzuki parts in Saddar Rwp (Waseem, Koh-e-Noor, Potohar)
None have the original SGP temperature sending unit for Khyber. All have the same Japanese one I posted above (Sankei)

[hassantahir2]

I guess so the one we have at the moment is for Cultus.
Because the one i installed in Khyber was bought for 07-Cultus that we sold some time ago.
This was laying around unused so i installed it in Khyber but in winters or driving above speeds of 50-60 km/h the temperature needle remains exactly in the mid.
With the previous FF temperature sending unit the needle used to sit near C mark.
But now i have become used to this situation.

[speedster_101]

Yes, exactly. With genuine temp sending unit, the needle in cluster used to stay at C mark that is why I changed it. But I am not getting used to needle being at H. What if the engine is really heating?

[hassantahir2]

In my car it stay's just below the dangerous marked area on the gauge so i assume if it crosses that mark and touches H then it's overheating.

[speedster_101]

Yes, as you can see in the picture above, my car's gauge also remain on that cut below H.
Someone told me Mehran also has the same temperature sending unit.

[hassantahir2]

I am not sure about Mehran though but Cultus surely does have the same sensor.
But the previous FF sensor in my Khyber had a different type of connector attached to it.
Let me check if i still have that with me i will upload it's pic shortly.
Edit: This is how the FF sensor looks.

[speedster_101]

Yes, the connector is different.
I think the only option is to find it in junk yard i.e. the kaabli stuff.

[hassantahir2]

I don't think so there would be any use of finding one in junkyard. Because the FF sensor used to give false reading from day one in my car(needle near to C mark).
Also someone else on pakwheels said the same about FF temperature sender.

[speedster_101]

In earlier days, when my Khyber was new, the gauge used to be at 25%. This was the position when automatic fan used to kick in. Maximum was around 40% when the car was stuck in traffic in summer season. When it became faulty, it used to sit near C mark. May be the resistance of the wires increased. That is when I replaced it and bought this Sankei one.
We bought a brand new Mehran Euro II in 2015 and its needle also sit near C in normal traffic. But sometimes it goes till the mid. So I think the new Suzuki gauges are not so reliable. I have a Corolla Gli 11th Gen and its gauge climbs quickly till 40% and then stay there, no matter what. Even in severe traffic jams with A/C, the needle doesn't go up further.