Local WagonR brake caliper rebuild kit and Brake Pad bracket/Shims

[aminjafer5441]

The right side brake caliper is getting stuck leading to overheating of the caliper, pads and the entire wheel assembly (hub, rim, tire, cv joint etc. ). I can literally smell the rubber components like cv joint boot and other boots on the caliper overheating. This happens even after a relative short drive with not much brakes used at all. A while back I had the inner seal of the caliper piston replaced which seemed to have rectified the issue temporarily but it is back now. Also there is a loud 'thak' sound from the brake assembly upon hard braking. The shims for the brake pads are installed and when I inspect it visually nothing seems out of place. I am curious if someone has faced the same or similar issue? Has anyone rebuilt the caliper (replaced piston, seals, boots, slide pins, greased slide pins) or know if the rebuild kit is available in market. Unfortunately I was unable to source any such kit from Islamabad.

[margallar]

brake caliper kit is a common item and should be readily available.

[aminjafer5441]

I think caliper kit is available in rawalpindi shops but recently I called them and asked for slide pins and the bracket that house the brake pads but they said it is not available new. I asked Waseem autos in saddar also but they also said to source such parts from kabaar (second hand) market.

[aminjafer5441]

This is just an update on the Post. After all this time, I've yet to source the caliper kit for Local Suzuki WagonR. These are my finding:
- Brake Caliper Kit either for boots and seals or for slide pins and brackets are not available in Isb/Rawalpindi anywhere
- New Slide pins and boot is available at suzuki motors on order at a price of Rs. 4000 for each so 16000 just for slide pins and their rubber boots. (Insanity)
- Whole caliper assembly is available on order for Rs. 45000 each so left and right set for Rs.90000 (again, even more insanity)
- In kabli/used parts it is available but prices and condition varies starting from 10,000 for full caliper assembly and moving up.

@margallar @Xulfiqar or anybody else, given this situation would you guys know of any place where the kit may be available outside Isb/Rawalpindi or is the only other option is repairing/used parts?

[Xulfiqar]

Im from khi and that city had an entire massive area of new auto spares, within that they had dedicated brake parts shops which had all the rubber items you want.

Btw are your rubber boots torn up?

[aminjafer5441]

Thanks for responding. So yes the rubber boots for slide pins are torn. The dust boots for caliper piston are also torn.
The pins might need to be changed since they are corroded but a good machinist might be able to repair them.
Would you know of any shop in the area you mentioned that ship parts to other cities if they have the stuff I require? I'm in islamabad so would be very difficult to source from any place else.
I've checked online and the only place having required parts is an Indian spare parts website boodmo but don't think they delive here.

[Xulfiqar]

No idea
You may google and call them,

Btw the rubber boots perish by use of regular bearing grease and then the pins rust.

This is why you use silicone grease on the pins, same for the dust boot on the piston.

[aminjafer5441]

Thanks, I'll try to source from elsewhere.
I've ordered permatex brake caliper grease, it's silicon based and was quite expensive.

[Xulfiqar]

This isnt a good choice at all, this is good for exposed pin setups like used in very old caliper assemblies, buy plain silicon grease or O ring grease sold by harris in Pakistan, its cheap and is 100% the correct lube for caliper slide pins.

You can use permatex product as a dab of this on the backing of the pad where it touches the caliper outer area, the abutment areas of the pads too, but never on the caliper slide pins itself.

[aminjafer5441]

Thanks for clarification about the grease to be used. I've not been able to source the Harris silicon grease here in Islamabad shops so had to purchase a silicone O ring grease online. However, for the time being I've used the permatex grease but very sparingly on the slide pins. Surprisingly, I found aftermarket boots for the slide pins that fit securely and seal properly. I'll be cleaning out the caliper slide pins and bracket when I get the silicone grease in a week or two. So far the permatex grease seems to perform well.
Just for my knowledge, Is there any particular reason not to used this grease on the slide pins? Does it damage the rubber boots? Does it dry out causing the Pins to bind? And or any other reason?

[Xulfiqar]

The permatex grease is petroleum based and eats the rubber boots which causes water to enter then rust the slide pins and seize the system.

The correct and only lube to be used on such pins is silicone grease.

[aminjafer5441]

Got this from Daraz. I'll try to replace the grease soon but no idea what quality it is although it is imported from China by daraz.

[hassanfarhad7861]

Hey @aminjafer5441 sorry to bother and ask an unrelated question. I saw a post of yours of yours on a Forum and wanted to ask some Details. The Forum was about a wagon r ac problem and low mileage and you wrote at that time the forum was of 2022 that your wagon r was driven 146k and still strong Ac and mikeage of 14 and 18 km long and short drives.

I myself have a Dec 2014 Wagon r and bought it 0km. Its been 10 years since I have the car and approx 70k km on the odo meter.

Now after 10 Years the Ac has started being a little bit warmer then Usual still very effective but not as last year for example. If I could use it on 2 now I have to use 3 or 4. Do you think this is acceptable after 10 years to chrck the AC filter etc? Never did anything in 10 years.

I only now changed the front schocks because they were empty because of too many bad breakers in Peshawar.

Secondly I had to change rear Tyre bearing 2 Times because Indrove wagon r in some water and it got into the bearing.

Rest I did not do anything to it.

But one problem Inam
Facing is that after I bought it. The second or third year the average dropped and till now did not recover. It gives me 10-12 in peshawar city and neaynthe same or 14 in Long. I do not know why it dropped but other than that I love the car. I prefer it kver other cars. I just love it.

Could you tell me what you did in so many kms? What work occured? Which size thre you r using. I am using the original tycoon ones. I changed them once and bought the same again.

Plus donyou know a good tyre and alloy shop in islamabad. Inwant to buy those te37 rims for wagonr.

[hassanfarhad7861]

And could you answer a few questions please because you have driven the car so many kms?
Btw how many km on the odo now?

1: Do we have to do some kind of AC maintainance or cleaning filter etc?

2: what engine oil do you use?

3:what tyre size do you have? Do you know a good tyre and alloy dealer in islbd?

4: what kind of maintainance are you doing? Like general tuning etc? If you are doing it could you tell me from where is islbd ade you doing it? I would like to bring my car there also.

5: how is your car after so many kms? Rattling? Engine still ok? Gearbox? Did you change gear oil?

6: How satisfied r u with Wagon r after these many kms? Mine never left me stranded. I was one of the first who bought wagon r in peshawar and everybody was laughing at me because if the tall boy design. I remember the price 1030000. Best investment on a car ever for me. If you could give some insights as well and answer my questions.

Thanks

[hassanfarhad7861]

What have you guys done with Coolant? I never changed it in these 10 years. Just when the reservoir box goes to middle I just top it up

[aminjafer5441]

Salam.
I'll try to answer all your questions but if I miss any do let me know.
Current car mileage is at 187000 km
1. Regarding the AC performance there are two main reasons for low cooling. The AC system might be a bit low on refrigerant or the evaporator coil and condenser might be dirty/choked. If the air throw is less than when it was new then the evaporator might be choked. Are you using a cabin air filter? If not then the evaporator diffinitely needs to be cleaned. I've found the flamingo AC pro cleaner foam very good for this. Don'tconfuse this with another product of flamingo which is sprayed into the ac vents. This is sprayed dirctly onto the evaporator coil or into the fan intake. Instructions are on the can. I do it in a slightly differnet way. I can explain in another message hopefully.

To also ensure proper air flow across the condensor and radiator You'll need to remove the radiator and clean both. I've a post on this also. There is dirt and debris build up between the radiator and condensor that you can not see without removing the radiator.
Ac on my wagonR still blows very cold on 2nd fan speed and no issues so far.

1. You mentioned low mileage. Mine still gives 15km/l plus with ac in traffic with light to medium foot. Without ac, it can reach 19-20 km/l if driven carefully but realistically atleast 18km/l with some rash driving in between. One major factor for increasing fuel economy is tire pressure. I always keep it at 32 psi or more. The Suzuki company recommends 36psi but I find that too harsh for our road conditions.
   Tire size is 175/65 r13 and I've found that wider tires don't affect fuel economy much at all. There must be something that has caused worsened fuel economy. Try to remember if you had any work done? Changed the engine oil grade etc.?
   I'm using shell hx7 5w30 engine oil with no issues so far.
   Coincidently I'm also looking for a good tire shop to upgrade to alloys but I've not started looking yet.
2. Tire size is 175/65 r13 on original steel rims.
3. For maintenance I'm changing the fluids at the recommended intervals. Engine oil and gliter at 4500-5000km. Gear oil at 40000km intervals. Brake oil is flushed every 3 years or 40000km. Engine Coolant at 40000km intervals. For coolant I use Aisin green color coolant.
   Brake pads and shoes replaced after every 60000km.
   Throttle body cleaning done at home at 20000km intervals.
   Steering rack was replaced after 100000km although replacement was not necessary as only left side bush was worn out. So it could have been repaired easily.
   Air filter changed at 15000-20000km intervals.
   Spark plugs never require cleaning of engine is operating optimally. Replace the regular spark plugs at 40000km intervals or use iridium that last more than 100000km. Other than these there is no tuning as such that is required. Never let any mechanic open unnecceassry stuff on your car in the name of tuning. I’ve never got the catalytic converter cleaned and there is no issue with exhaust flow, power or economy. Do as much as you can at home since this car gives very little trouble of at all.
4. The car is still going strong but I've abused it quite a bit as I've taken it to long trips on norther areas and other rural areas with poor road conditions etc. Due to this there some minor rattling in the interior now especially dashboard but it's not too loud and only occurs when car is accelerating to over rough roads. The riverside door also rattles a little but I guess after opening closing so many times the seals and lock have become loose.
   Engine is still ok. It has good power and very little sound apart from a slight knock that it developed at around 145000 km. I've yet to pinpoint the issue regarding that. It's not reducing oil nor any smoke.
   The gearbox is a bit noisy now with a little wine on second and fifth gear. It's only noticeable at low rpms and not above 2k rpm.
   The factory CV joints are still running fine however, I've noticed that the inner joints have a bit of play and clunk if I release the clutch suddenly.
   The clutch does not slip but pedal is hard as its coming close to replacement.
5. For a small car I'm satisfied as it is reliable and cheap to maintain. Most parts are readily available and even then, it rarely requires any maintenance other than the routine stuff.

[hassanfarhad7861]

Thank you Very much for the Reply.

1: As for the AC the blow is still relative good but It doesnt feel soo cold altough in 2 fan speed it is not that bad. But I will find this Flamingo bottle( if you could tell me from where you bought it and for how much). I di never clean the evaporater or the condenser. It never gave a problem and I did not want to unnecessary fiddle with things but this summer I will do as you say. But could you guide me what is cabin filter? Do you use cabin filter? I have heard that wagon r doesnt have it.

2: Regarding the mileage, once it dropped intried many thing unfortunately, cleaning cat, O2 sensor sparkplugs. But when nothing happened then I left it alone. Inhave been away fir the past 5 years from my wagon R but my brother who drives it and is not so much interested in it is somewhat satisfied with mileage. I drove the car in Feb after 5 years and it had 8 bars and I went to islbd then that Monal road till abbotabad then from there nathiagali and back to abbotabad. I think it gave 12-14km/litre. I am going back to pak in december and will look at it. But I hope it will get better but probably not it has been years since it had a good average. Maybe because once it went down the average then Infiddled with it and made it worse

3: Regarding the Fluids. I never changed coolant nor flushed the brakes. Just one time changed gear oil in the end of 2019. My car is now 10 years and 80000km old. I told my brother to change coolant now. But I will tell him to flush brakes and once again gear oil as well.

My car was good when I drove it I just changed the fro t Schocks and a Bearing in thr back right tyre. No rattling nothing after 80000km. Just a few body dents and one problem a little rust(zang) which was my brothers fault because he is not so much interested in cars he left muddy for a long time and maybe thats why this happened. But now I am going to spray the car ina few places for touch ups.

This car is a long time with me and I hope to keep it longer. But repsect to you and your wagon r and its average and for the reliability it gave you. My best decision ever to buy this car. Please if you could answer the above replies
Which I gave u I would be thankfull

Regards

[hassanfarhad7861]

I am attaching a post from anither thread for wagon r cabin filter. He wrote that for evaporator cleaning the dashboard has to be opened. Can you help me out? And sorry if they have to remove the radiotor those this mean the coolant procedure has to be done againn

Thanks

[hassanfarhad7861]

And where in Islbd do you buy original aisnin coolant and engine oil and this flamingo stuff? Could you give me an address and also a foto from the front of that flamingo bottle?

[aminjafer5441]

1. This is the product I use. Make sure it the one to spray into the cabin blower intake and not the one to spray into ac vents.
   
   
   
   Cabin filter of suzuki swift fits nicely but is not ideal. Unfortunately wagonR original cabin filter is not available. You'll need to cut the opening carefully with a blade and check online or in market if some ac shop has the bracket to close the opening when filter is installed. I bought online but don't remember where.
   Here is a picture showing the cabin air filter location. Also right next to it is the resistor for the fan motor. If you remove it then you have direct access to the evaporator coil to spray the flamingo product onto it.
   
   
2. Cat cleaning is 100% unnecessary and the same goes for O2 sensor. If the cat is getting clogged for any reason then there is some other issue like rich fuel mixture, oil in exhuast due to weak piston rings etc. Once a cat goes bad there is no cleaning to fix, only replacement. I've never even touched these components ever and no issue till date.
   In hilly areas the average will drop to like 15 without ac due to excessive load but should not be around 12. There is something wrong here, but it might require some investigation.
3. Fluids need to be changed regularly to keep optimal performance. For coolant Aisin might be difficult to source. I've heard that guard coolant is also good so you can try that or suzuki original coolant. Don't skip the brake fluid flush either. I've learnt the hard way with a seized front left caliper due to rust the caliper piston housing. Brake oil absorbs moisture and if left for a long time it will cause rusting inside the brake system.

The more you take care of your car the better it will serve. WagonR is one of the small cars that is almost trouble free if routine maintenance is done.
Don't ever have the dashboard removed until absolutely neccessary. You'll open a whole new can of worms and our local mechanics or so called experts will destroy it.
It's good you're concerned about your car, glad to see someone like myself who'll go to extreme lengths to keep their car in shape.